87 ex-mod heart transplant 2.5nad to 200tdi - Page 3 - Defender Source
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  #41  
Old May 2nd, 2015, 08:02 AM
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Don't feel bad. It took me 3 days just to get my engine off the pallet and into the mounts. You're making great time.

I didn't have to cut the radiator mounts on my truck. Not sure why or how much it's sticking up. Photos?
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  #42  
Old May 2nd, 2015, 08:07 AM
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When installing the engine, I remove all the studs and replace them with bolts.
I start with 4 long bolts in all 4 corners, then slide the engine back until the clutch starts to go in.
You may need to turn the crank pulley a little.
Then you can add shorter bolts and again shorter bolts until you are mated up.

I also recall that several positions on the back of the 200TDI flywheel housing needed to be tapped with threads so as to mate to all the belhousing bolt positions on the early LT-77.

Get some tape, wire, or zip ties to hold the heater cables out of the way.
If they get caught on the engine they will get stretched, damaged, and otherwise twisted so they don't work properly.

Go for it!
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  #43  
Old May 2nd, 2015, 08:36 AM
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1) You need to use a 200TDI filter. The 2.5NA filter is not suitable. The 2.5 spills back to the filter, the 200TDI does not.

2) There is only one plug on the 200TDI, from what I recall, plus the glow plug timer.
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  #44  
Old May 2nd, 2015, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
For what it is worth you don't have to remove the tunnel. You just pull the engine mounts and drop the engine down to access the upper nuts.
Taking the tunnel out is a waste of time, right, right, right!

You can rest the front of the engine on a block of wood
From underneath, some swivel joints/sockets can reach most of the bolts.
You may need to use a box end wrench on the very top bolts if you can't reach them from underneath.

Don't remember ever removing the front rad support or the floorboards for an engine install.
Someone did bring a 110 in for a 4JB1-T install with the floorboards already out.
It was a little easier, but not necessary.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #45  
Old May 2nd, 2015, 02:52 PM
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You guys are masters. I needed the floors out just to beat on the crossmember. That damn thing was a bitch.
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  #46  
Old May 2nd, 2015, 05:52 PM
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I totally disagree that the floors are a waste of time. Having the bolts all wide open probably saved me at least double the time it took to take the floors off. It made it so I could see every single bolt, from every angle and I could easily access each and every bolt at any given time. Plus I had my wife put the floor and tunnel back it, so it was like it was never out in the first place!

I spent a little more time on the truck today. I figured out where my remaining fuel line fits into the mix. It was the return, so Fuel tank > lift pump > filter > injection pump > return. My issue now is that the return line has a different connection than the 200tdi injection pump. That is a bit irritating. Looks like this is the start of my "still need to buy" list.

My next issue is that the walkthrough I have been following has the exhaust going in after the engine is in place. BIG mistake. The 2 bolt adapter on the end is too bulky for it to fit under the body and over the crossmember without a ton of room to get the perfect angle. I'm going to cut the 2 bolt connector off of the end. This should shorten my pipe by about 3 inches, reduce the diameter of the end by about 2 inches and hopefully allow it to fit into place. I'm not too bothered by it since it will have to be cut anyway to fit to almost any exhaust I buy in the future.

I now have a power steering reservoir and all of the associated hoses, but I can't seem to figure out where they all plug in. I'm hoping I don't have to get a new steering box, because if so, I won't be doing that any time soon.

Other than the fuel line and the power steering lines, I think I'm ready to crank it up! It went a lot faster than I thought it would. 1 day to take apart the 2.5, 1 day to prep the 200tdi, remove the 2.5 and install the 200tdi, and 1 day to put all the fiddly bits back on. Not to bad since I did everything but the floors by my self.
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  #47  
Old May 2nd, 2015, 06:11 PM
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Whatever suits each person. I can pull an engine in two hours by myself. You need some long extensions to reach the ones by the starter which is not everyone's thing.
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  #48  
Old May 2nd, 2015, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
1) You need to use a 200TDI filter. The 2.5NA filter is not suitable. The 2.5 spills back to the filter, the 200TDI does not.

2) There is only one plug on the 200TDI, from what I recall, plus the glow plug timer.
I ran mine for a few months with the 2.5NA fuel filter. I plugged spill back with a screw. I also just wired the glow plugs exactly like they were on the 2.5NA, no timer.
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  #49  
Old May 2nd, 2015, 07:54 PM
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I have all new 200tdi filters, so I'm good on that department. My issue was with the lines that move from the bulkhead, to a banjo bolt that attached to the 2.5 filter, then to the return on the engine. I couldn't find the return earlier but I believe I found it. I just need to get the correct adapter.

So far other than the remaining 6 pin plug, I have wired the engine up exactly like I had my 2.5 wired, that means I don't believe I have put on a glow plug timer. After looking at pictures of it online, I don't think my engine or my truck came with one. I'll probably do the 'ol "count to 10" trick I use for HMMWV's instead of relying on a timer.
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  #50  
Old May 2nd, 2015, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal View Post
I have all new 200tdi filters, so I'm good on that department. My issue was with the lines that move from the bulkhead, to a banjo bolt that attached to the 2.5 filter, then to the return on the engine. I couldn't find the return earlier but I believe I found it. I just need to get the correct adapter.
I used a few inches of Viton diesel fuel line and 2 small hose clamps.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal View Post
I have wired the engine up exactly like I had my 2.5 wired, that means I don't believe I have put on a glow plug timer. After looking at pictures of it online, I don't think my engine or my truck came with one. I'll probably do the 'ol "count to 10" trick I use for HMMWV's instead of relying on a timer.
A 200Tdi doesn't need any glow plug till it is way colder than it ever gets in SoCal so no counting required but that is my plan too if I'm somewhere cold.
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  #51  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonAndy View Post
I didn't have to cut the radiator mounts on my truck. Not sure why or how much it's sticking up. Photos?
My 200tdi radiator is about an inch and a half taller than my 2.5 radiator, so it sat weird when I sat the hood on it for a mockup. After I put the front panel together it rubs the hood and I haven't even put the rad brackets on, but it isn't too bad. I most likely won't do any cutting because like I said, I have the side hood clasps, so it will stay closed.
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  #52  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 09:18 AM
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Something is not right then. The correct 200TDI radiator/intercooler support is a direct drop in. I've done a few trucks and it is all bolt up.

You are replacing the entire radiator and frame assembly with a complete radiator/intercooler/frame assembly?

The top supports may be different as there are earlier and later styles.

Do you have the factory 200TDI swap installation manual? It is very handy to make sure you have all the needed parts.
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  #53  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal View Post
I have all new 200tdi filters, so I'm good on that department. My issue was with the lines that move from the bulkhead, to a banjo bolt that attached to the 2.5 filter, then to the return on the engine. I couldn't find the return earlier but I believe I found it. I just need to get the correct adapter.

So far other than the remaining 6 pin plug, I have wired the engine up exactly like I had my 2.5 wired, that means I don't believe I have put on a glow plug timer. After looking at pictures of it online, I don't think my engine or my truck came with one. I'll probably do the 'ol "count to 10" trick I use for HMMWV's instead of relying on a timer.
The return line connects to the injection pump, where it is joined by the spill lines.

You do not "need" to use a glow plug timer, but it is the correct way and they usually easy enough to find. It puts a lot less stress on the ignition switch.
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  #54  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 09:26 AM
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Okay, I went back and looked at the photo of the new engine. The fuel lines are all hooked up to the filter. The complete rad/intercooler is there with upper support. This should all just drop straight in. You should not be modifying anything.
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  #55  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 10:02 AM
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I had to cut, lower and re weld my lower radiator mounts on my ExMOD.
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  #56  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Something is not right then. The correct 200TDI radiator/intercooler support is a direct drop in. I've done a few trucks and it is all bolt up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
I had to cut, lower and re weld my lower radiator mounts on my ExMOD.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal View Post
I now have a power steering reservoir and all of the associated hoses, but I can't seem to figure out where they all plug in. I'm hoping I don't have to get a new steering box, because if so, I won't be doing that any time soon.
Cal: There is enough "talent" to guide you through this if you post some pictures up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal View Post
My next issue is that the walkthrough I have been following has the exhaust going in after the engine is in place. BIG mistake. The 2 bolt adapter on the end is too bulky for it to fit under the body and over the crossmember without a ton of room to get the perfect angle. I'm going to cut the 2 bolt connector off of the end. This should shorten my pipe by about 3 inches, reduce the diameter of the end by about 2 inches and hopefully allow it to fit into place. I'm not too bothered by it since it will have to be cut anyway to fit to almost any exhaust I buy in the future.
I always add a flexible vibration damper to minimize the exhaust and engine vibrations.
Since I make my own custom exhaust systems for engine conversions, had some 3 bolt exhaust unions manufactured out of 1/4" steel to join the exhaust together.
Always put a custom union about 4"-7" below where the exhaust mounts to the manifold on the down pipe. Then the only time you have to fight frozen exhaust manifold down pipe nuts and studs is when you have a leak there, which luckily has not happened.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #57  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
I had to cut, lower and re weld my lower radiator mounts on my ExMOD.
Well.... Like I've said, I've done three ex-MOD trucks and not once have we modified anything. A few guys and light day and all is done.
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  #58  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 10:27 AM
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Well.... Like I've said, I've done three ex-MOD trucks and not once have we modified anything. A few guys and light day and all is done.
I just read this with a French accent and you didn't sound like a dick at all John.
Cal if your bonnet is hitting you obviously have a clearance issue. I didn't mock mine up when I did the swap. The instructions that I was using said to cut and weld so I did.
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  #59  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 10:32 AM
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On my exhaust.. I used a 2.5TD downpipe as it has a flange just after the turn. This allows the exhaust to be easily removed in the future. The 200TDI downpipe goes past the crossmember and it is extremely hard to remove with the engine in place.

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Muffler back is the later 300TDI stock, rear tank exhaust, with a small custom section between the two using the intermediate 2.5TD pipe as a starting point, NTC4221. Easiest just to use a good muffler shop for the back section though unless you have cheap shipping on an exhaust system.
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  #60  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 10:35 AM
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I just read this in a French accent.
If you involve a French guy it takes at least two more days. Lots of chatter and little work. A German guy and it never is done as they must re-engineer every part.
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