87 ex-mod heart transplant 2.5nad to 200tdi - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old April 15th, 2015, 09:31 PM
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Andrew P
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Cal,
When I did mine I had what I called the "box of many things". STC933 would be a huge help to you. I had one and it made it easier as it had all the little bits in it. I still have the book that came with it with the parts list that comes with the kit. If you like I can take a picture of the parts list for you. Here is what I found, some are correct, some aren't depending on specific factors dependent on the part that I don't recall right now. It takes a bit of experimentation and research regardless. It does give you something to start from.

From what I understand the air cleaner and shroud are unobtanium, or at least difficult. There was a shroud on here several weeks ago. But you only need that if you are going to run a mechanical fan. Oh, and I am running a "G" suffix LT77 rebuilt by SWR and so far so good.

I installed PS as the steering was very heavy prior with the 2.5NAD. Spectacular upgrade. I can steer it with a finger now.

Good luck. I like the 200TDI and it was bog simple to bolt in.

One more thing, I went with the 1.2...and it takes some skinny pedal and clutch work to start out in first, and at speed going up inclines it will lose a few MPH. I would go 1.4 if I had to do it again, but since I am likely to install lockers I think I will just gear the diffs.
Drew
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  #22  
Old April 16th, 2015, 11:16 PM
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Pictures came in and I went from confused and skeptical, right back to excited.




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  #23  
Old April 16th, 2015, 11:32 PM
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PM sent to 1of40 for the 1.2 ratio transfer case. I'm feel so much closer to being done already.
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  #24  
Old April 16th, 2015, 11:33 PM
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You did good. That looks very complete. Even the air cleaner bracket is there.
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  #25  
Old April 16th, 2015, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meatblanket View Post
You did good. That looks very complete. Even the air cleaner bracket is there.
Yup, you will be very happy some of those parts are included. Have fun! BTW you have email.
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  #26  
Old April 17th, 2015, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xplorUtah View Post
Yup, you will be very happy some of those parts are included. Have fun! BTW you have email.
I agree. That is much more complete than usual. Well done.
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  #27  
Old April 28th, 2015, 03:23 PM
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Question for everyone. What is the safest way to disconnect the throttle cable without ruining the timing or losing the pieces? My assumption is to remove the pin from where the cable attaches to the assembly, but it seems like a lot of teeny, tiny, loseable parts. Any wisdom would be helpful.

REMOVING 2.5 NA DIESEL FROM EXMOD DEFENDER

Work done so far:
Disconnected battery.
Removed bonnet. already removed for painting
Remove hood catch. The hood catch spring is a bit of a pain, but it came out pretty well once I figured it out; although I might have an issue getting it back in.
Remove fan cowl. two of the rubber studs were broken on mine, so I was already almost done!
Removed front panel. One of the bolts was spinning in the housing. I attempted to drill it out but the aluminum in the panel was too flimsy and it tore out from the side. I was pretty disappointed, but the aluminum reshapes so easily that I don't think it will be an issue once its all back on.
Removed front floor panels and transmission tunnel. The floor panels have to be removed before the tunnel will come out because the front quarter of the floor goes over the top of the tunnel, while the back 3/4 of the tunnel goes over the floor panels. Its a bit of a pain. Once out, the bolts that connect the transmission to the engine are wide open.
Place wooden block under transmission to bear weight. a 2x4 worked ok for me.
Loosen All the bolts connecting transmission to engine. I wont have the engine out until my replacement arrives, so I didnt want to risk it sitting on only a couple bolts. So I just loosened them.
Battle to the death with a Black Widow spider. She swung out at me while I was wrenching the transmission and landed on my hand. She had the advantage for round one, but my signature move (flailing like a girl) sent her flying under the truck. I then brought the fight to her and it was over. Now I'm a bit more cautious every time I see a web.
Drain coolant. Make sure you have plenty of containers. I did not and I had to fill a small trashcan until I could locate the proper bottles.
Drain Oil.
Disconnect cooling hoses. Be ready to catch any extra leaks. I used a gatorade bottle with a funnel in it. It worked well.
Remove radiator brackets. My bolts came out pretty easily. I was surprised.
Lift out radiator. The rad should just lift out. Make sure you don't lose the rubber grommets at the base. Mine was so rusty that I was able to use a brush to "dust" out the waffling. This thing is toast.
Disconnect air intake and hoses. I removed the bracket base as well. I'll find out soon enough if that was necessary, but if anything it allows me to clean (scrape off) the 1/4 inch layer of muck that accrued under the filter.
Remove coolant reservoir. I was told that the 200tdi comes with a different one so I removed the tank and the bracket.
Disconnect electrical. I chose to leave the harness connected to the engine in most places, and to disconnect it from the truck instead. It appeared to me that it connected to the truck in fewer places than to the engine. I figured it would be easier for me to label the truck connections and use how it's zig-zagged through, and connected to the 2.5 as a template to how it will connect to the 200tdi.
Zip tied now empty electrical connections. I labeled them and tied them to the truck as close to their mate as possible, to minimize my inevitable "WTF is this?" moments in the future.
Disconnect power steering hoses. I left the other end of the hoses attached, just in case I have to reuse them.
Disconnect fuel lines. I took copious amounts of photos and labeled them with paint pen so that I know where they go
Disconnect exhaust downpipe. The bolt closest to the block is a nightmare to get to because the oil dipstick pipe sticks up too far. I couldnt think of a good way to get to it so....
Fail to disconnect downpipe. I disconnected the manifold from the block, then the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust, and removed it as a complete unit. My manifold was cracked and my downpipe was rusty anyway, so I'll live.
Loosen engine mounts. Just like the transmission, this might be sitting a while. I'd rather get them moving, but keep them on than risk something happening while sitting with them undone.
Assure that nothing is connected to the engine. I did a finger sweep to double check that my engine is free and clear. So far the only thing that is connected is the loose engine mounts, the loose tranny bolts, and the stupid throttle cable.

I have a couple pics that I took on my wifes phone (I lost mine, long story.) and I will post them as soon as I can steal it from her.
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  #28  
Old April 28th, 2015, 04:34 PM
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[QUOTE=Cal;632864]Question for everyone. What is the safest way to disconnect the throttle cable without ruining the timing or losing the pieces? My assumption is to remove the pin from where the cable attaches to the assembly, but it seems like a lot of teeny, tiny, loseable parts. Any wisdom would be helpful.

Cal, to disconnect the throttle cable from the pump just remove the split pin from the clevis pin detach the cable and refit pins to the throttle arm on the pump, just squezze the cable adjuster and pull out from the bracket. But I do not see a throttle cable fitted in your picture??
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  #29  
Old April 28th, 2015, 04:38 PM
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On the throttle cable, you remove the cotter pin and then the clevis pin at the end, and then remove that plastic bushing from the bracket that holds it in place. Pretty simple really but yes the clevis pin is pretty small and easy to lose. Removing the throttle cable will have no affect on your timing btw. I also would've used a Sawzall on the old exhaust, you won't re-use any of that. Also didn't see where you disconnected your fuel line.
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  #30  
Old April 28th, 2015, 05:48 PM
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Fun swap. I did this last fall into my 110.

------ Follow up post added April 28th, 2015 05:49 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by meatblanket View Post
You did good. That looks very complete. Even the air cleaner bracket is there.
I was thinking the same. Wish my engine came this complete.
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  #31  
Old April 28th, 2015, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meatblanket View Post
On the throttle cable, you remove the cotter pin and then the clevis pin at the end, and then remove that plastic bushing from the bracket that holds it in place. Pretty simple really but yes the clevis pin is pretty small and easy to lose. Removing the throttle cable will have no affect on your timing btw. I also would've used a Sawzall on the old exhaust, you won't re-use any of that. Also didn't see where you disconnected your fuel line.


Sadly I don't have access to a Sawzall or else I would have. I did the write-up after the fact and I was going by memory, so I forgot to include the fuel line. I'll edit it and put it in where it should go. Thanks for the heads up.
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  #32  
Old April 28th, 2015, 06:02 PM
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For what it is worth you don't have to remove the tunnel. You just pull the engine mounts and drop the engine down to access the upper nuts.
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  #33  
Old April 28th, 2015, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
For what it is worth you don't have to remove the tunnel. You just pull the engine mounts and drop the engine down to access the upper nuts.

I've heard that, but I have a lot of time before the engine arrives and I have to rent a crane, so the fewer issues on the day I have the crane, the better. It just made me more comfortable to make sure none of the bolts were seized while I have the time.
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  #34  
Old April 28th, 2015, 07:22 PM
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Fun stuff. That motor looks great. Amazing contrast in appearance between a used motor from RN and the one from the Vendor Who Shall Remain Unnamed.

If I were you, I would get whatever you're missing to get power steering. That's my second favorite part about having a three hundy, besides the cojones under the hood.
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  #35  
Old April 28th, 2015, 07:56 PM
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Cal,
I sent you my contact stuff via PM a while back. Call or text if you need pictures of the finished product or have any questions. As for the exhaust, toss it and start new.
Dave
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  #36  
Old April 28th, 2015, 08:13 PM
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X2 on what Chris said about the power steering. Get it sorted and operational while you have it all apart you will love it almost as much as the motor. I did my swap over a weekend last summer in Uncle Douglas' barn and it was immensely beneficial to have an endless supply of Defender bolts, bits and pieces laying around not to mention the skill and knowledge contained in Uncle Doug's head. Good luck and keep the faith it is well worth the expense and effort.
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  #37  
Old April 28th, 2015, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddymow View Post
X2 on what Chris said about the power steering. Get it sorted and operational while you have it all apart ...

I did my swap over a weekend last summer in Uncle Douglas' barn and it was immensely beneficial to have an endless supply of Defender bolts, bits and pieces laying around not to mention the skill and knowledge contained in Uncle Doug's head.
Yes the head of Uncle Douglas reaches exceptionally high heights in many many ways!!!!

Could this be Raub's new signature?
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  #38  
Old April 28th, 2015, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddymow View Post
you will love it almost as much as the motor.
...and no more suspicious blisters on your palms.
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  #39  
Old May 2nd, 2015, 01:54 AM
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The engine finally arrived. I rented an engine hoist and immediately began the swap.

Questions I have after completing most of the swap.
1- The 2.5 has a fuel line that goes from the bulkhead to a banjo bolt on the fuel filter, then to the engine. I can't seem to find where this line attaches to the 200tdi filter. Does this line attach anywhere, or should I blank it off?
2- The 2.5 wiring harness only connects to the truck with two actual plugs. One plug is 8 or 10 hole and the other is 6 hole. I searched around the 200tdi for about 20 minutes and I can only locate the one large plug. Am I just missing the smaller plug, or does this thing only have one?

Removed the throttle
Removed fuel filter. I didn't know I would be getting a new assembly, so I didn't know to remove it earlier.
Attached the crane to the 2.5.
Removed all of the remaining bolts.
Removed the 2.5. It was much easier than I thought it would be. Putting it back in was a much different story.
Removed the clutch assembly. It was rustier than the one in my 2.5na, so I'm glad I bought a new set.
Cleaned up the flywheel.
Removed flywheel and bell.
Changed the rear main seal. There was evidence that it may have been leaking prior to breaking down the engine, so I gave it a go.
Changed the Pilot bushing.
Reassembled the clutch assembly with shiny new pressure plate and disc.
Scraped grease out of the transmission bell. It was incredibly thick.
Replaced the throwout bearing. I thought the kit would come with a fork, but it didn't, so I had to leave the old one on. Good thing it wasn't damaged yet.










I was renting the hoist and I didn't have time to change the belts before I installed the engine, so I decided to put the engine back and to deal with the belts later. I have the timing kit, front main seal, timing tool kit and exterior belts all saved for another day.

Hoist the 200tdi and line it up. This was by far the most time consuming part of the swap. I left the rubber mounts on the frame and they wouldn't allow the engine and transmission to line up like it should. It took me embarrassingly too long to realize that the mounts were the issue. I was unable to get one of the rubber mounts off because the angle was wrong to fit any of my tools, so I ended up having to entirely unbolt the right mount off of the engine. It was very time consuming. With the rubbers and the right mount removed, the engine was far easier to line up. I could only get about 5 of the bolts to go in, so I had to hoist up the transmission with the engine so I could fit a bigger block of wood under the transmission (4inches). This gave the transmission a better angle for the engine to line up, and it dropped into place with a good shove to the side.

Bolt in the transmission.
Bolt in the engine mounts.
Bolt on the fuel filter.
Put fan cowl over fan.
Attach the throttle cable. the 2.5na's cable was too short. I didn't know it would be until someone pointed it out on the forum, but by that point my stuff was already on the way. I attached it with a short loop of zip-tie. It seems to be a solid fix for the very short term.
Put new radiator into radiator/intercooler brackets. The radiator swap was too easy.
Insert Radiator into truck It is too tall for the hood to close correctly. My truck has side hood clasps, so it will stay closed until I can cut down the radiator mounts and re-weld them back on. So far this appears to be the hardest part of the swap and the only thing I have seen so far that makes this not plug and play.
Bolt fan cowl to radiator
Re-attach hoses.
Bolt in new reservoirs.

This is as far as I was able to get before it got too dark to see.
I'll probably be wrenching all day tomorrow too.
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  #40  
Old May 2nd, 2015, 07:35 AM
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Cal, you're making great time. Keep up the good work dude.
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