8274 Rebuild / Install - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 9th, 2014, 02:37 PM
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8274 Rebuild / Install

This is a placeholder for the in-progress rebuild and installation of a Warn 8274 winch on my Ninety.

Basic Details:

Winch: Warn 8274, Serial #8xxxx, Prestolite Motor
Winch Plate: Warn #87675 - 8274-50 Winch Mounting Plate for Jeep Wrangler JK Rubicon.
Winch Line: Quadratec "Q-Series" 3/8" x 90' Dyneema Synthetic Line

Yes, I did finally upgrade my bumper bolts to 4 - 5" x 1/2"-13 Grade 8 bolts, although in retrospect it is total overkill, considering that the double-shear strength of each bolt is over 30,000 psi, for a total of 120ksi. The bumper itself would be torn off the frame before even 3/8" bolts would fail, but whatever.
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  #2  
Old November 9th, 2014, 04:33 PM
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The top-end gear bearings were rusted, as was the original shaft.

Warn does not give instructions on how to repair this component. Here is the method I used:

In an 8274 with a badly rusted upper housing pin, and rusted bearings, the following method is used to replace the components:

1. Using a 1/2" drill, gently drill about 1/16" into the end of the housing where the pin resides. Do not drill into the side of the housing with the four stake-holes. Drill into the opposite side. Using a drift and a rubber mallet, support the housing with wood and drive the pin out the side that you drilled.

2. Remove the upper housing gear assembly.

3. To remove the old bearings from the upper housing gear, use a drift placed inside the middle gear to hammer out the bearings from the inside out.

4. Remove all rust and oxidation from the old gears, and using fine emery paper, smooth out of the inner surface of the middle gear. Replace the bearings with new units. When tapping in the new bearings, place a new 3/8" shaft into the bearing and use the old bearings to drive the new bearings into place. Do NOT hammer the new bearings past flush on the middle gear otherwise you will not be able to remove them at a future date.

The new components can be bought from McMaster Carr. Parts:

2x 5905K22 Steel Needle-Roller Bearing, Open for 3/8" Shaft Diameter, 9/16" OD, 1/2" Width

1x 6061K418 Hardened Precision Steel Shaft, 3/8" Diameter, 3" Length

In newer 8274's, the middle gear is longer than the older models. In my model, a really crappy steel spacer was used to suspend the middle gear in the correct location. I decided to improve on this by using three bronze bushings which very precisely locate the upper gears in the housing:

3 x 7814K13 Alloy 932(SAE 660)Solid Bronze Thrust Bearing, for 3/8" Shaft Diameter, 3/4" OD, 1/8" thick

Note: Gigglepin sells bronze bushing replacements for the upper housing bearings. I performed some calculations based on the rotational velocity of the upper housing gear vs. the performance window of SAE 660 bushings. Their load and velocity specs seem ok, but I think the roller bearings are superior. Either way, if you want to use bronze bushings like Gigglepin, here are the parts:

2x 6381K458 Alloy 932 (SAE 660) Bronze Sleeve Bearing, for 3/8" Shaft Diameter, 9/16" OD, 1/2" Length
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  #3  
Old November 9th, 2014, 04:36 PM
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Remove all old paint, clean, and repaint the three housings (upper, lower, and drum support). Leave the bushing/bearing races unpainted.
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  #4  
Old November 9th, 2014, 04:42 PM
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Drive in the upper housing pin, bushings, and gears.

Assemble the components of the freespool lever, lubricating generously with assembly grease. Test fit the components into the upper housing to make sure that all components mesh properly.

The old sealed bearing that supports the motor shaft was rusted solid, so I replaced it with a new unit from Warn.

I also drilled a 5/16"-24 hole into the series wound motor housing, tapped it, and placed a stainless steel 1" threaded stud into the hole. Secure with a thin 5/16"-24 stainless nut. This will become the ground post from the motor. The original 8274 Prestolite motor had no provision for a good ground and this became problematic.

Test fit the motor along with the freespool level and the upper housing gears to ensure proper mesh.
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  #5  
Old November 9th, 2014, 04:47 PM
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The mainshaft support bearing will probably have rusted on older winches. Mine was quite crunchy, so I bought a new unit from Warn.

Removal of the old bearing is fairly easy with the appropriate size socket and a rubber mallet along with some wood to support the housing. Never hammer on the bearing without supporting the aluminum cast housing correctly!

Thanks to help from Charles, I was able to press the new bearing into the housing. It should stick out from the housing approximately this far.
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  #6  
Old November 9th, 2014, 04:49 PM
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Some rust and damaged teeth on the old splined cam gear. I replaced with a new unit.

Note the difference! Also, what you can't see is that the outer diameter of the newer unit is actually larger than the old unit, so it fits the bronze bushing more precisely.
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  #7  
Old November 9th, 2014, 04:50 PM
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Rebuild the brake assembly as shown in various rebuild guides on the internet.

I replaced all the consumables with components from a Warn rebuild kit (thanks Charles).

I zinc electroplated the brake discs, the ratchet disc, the spring washer, and then painted the brake discs metallic black - the same color as the housings.

This should prevent rust for the forseeable future on these rather rust prone parts!

I think it would be nice to drill the mainshaft for a 1/4"-20 or 5/16"-24 thread and put a safety washer on there at a future date. I can see how some people who abuse their 8274's can overwhelm the C-clip at the end of the mainshaft and cause the whole brake assembly to shoot out the side of the winch.
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  #8  
Old November 9th, 2014, 04:55 PM
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Using a mallet and the old main drum bushing, gently tap a new drum bushing into the lower housing to a depth of 0.190" below the outer edge of the housing.
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  #9  
Old November 9th, 2014, 04:56 PM
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Place a new end support bushing into the end support housing, as well as placing the end support housing cover into the opposite side.

The screws on this housing are 10-24 x 1/4". Screws longer than 1/4" will NOT fit in the housing as the holes are not through-tapped.
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  #10  
Old November 9th, 2014, 04:57 PM
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Place brake pawl, spring, and retaining plate into the lower housing.

I zinc electroplated my brake pawl to prevent rust.

I replaced the screw with Stainless 1/4"-20 x 1/2". Again, a screw longer than 1/2" will not fit.

Place the main gear into the lower housing in the correct orientation.
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  #11  
Old November 9th, 2014, 05:01 PM
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Assemble the components by mounting in the winch tray. Note the clear plastic shim used to straighten the lower housing.

The 8274 is an odd winch in that the lower and end support housings are free-standing. They are quite rigid, but are not guaranteed to be parallel to each other without shimming.

I bought four new 7/16"-14 square nuts from Warn for the winch plate mounts as these are not so easy to find elsewhere. The ones at McMaster may not be the same outer dimensions.

However, I did replace the original 1.5" long 7/16"-14 bolts with new Grade-8 Hardware with washers.

Also use copious amounts of assembly lube on all bushings and bearings prior to assembly.
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  #12  
Old November 9th, 2014, 05:01 PM
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Wow, very cool.
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  #13  
Old November 9th, 2014, 05:03 PM
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As an extra, I cut a gasket for the freespool lever housing.

I didn't want to put silicone sealant all over my winch so I placed a cork/rubber gasket on the housing. Much neater. Probably overkill.
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  #14  
Old November 9th, 2014, 05:07 PM
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Replace upper housing.

The upper housing is held on to the lower housing by 3x 3/4", 5/16"-18 capscrews and square nuts. I replaced with stainless units.

Replace all components and now you are ready to fill with lubricant (I used Honda MTF as it is in use with my LT77, it is also the correct viscosity: 30 weight. Another note is that the 8274 is splash lubricated so even thinner oil is probably even better. I'll probably try fully synthetic 0w20 at some point during the winter.)

What is not shown is that the upper housing was drilled to accept a 5/16"-24 fill plug. (The previous fill hole was some unknown thread.) A flanged cap screw is used as a fill plug along with a washer and a rubber gasket.

Next is wiring the winch solenoid pack and in-cab controls. Many thanks again to cgalpin for letting me raid his garage for pressing, use my TIG welder and plasma cutter to fabricate my stainless bumper's winch tray mount.
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  #15  
Old November 10th, 2014, 01:19 PM
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Sand those fins and then clear coat the whole thing and it will look like the 50th anniversary model!

nice work by the way!
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  #16  
Old November 10th, 2014, 02:41 PM
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Man that's pretty. I really wish I could fit one on my bumper...
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  #17  
Old November 10th, 2014, 05:21 PM
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Awesome!

Do mine.
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  #18  
Old November 10th, 2014, 05:36 PM
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these look so great rebuilt, nice job!
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  #19  
Old November 11th, 2014, 10:19 AM
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Thanks for the positive comments, guys

I hope this information is useful to others in the future.
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  #20  
Old November 11th, 2014, 06:05 PM
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Nice job and nice writeup!
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