300Tdi rebuild - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 23rd, 2014, 01:59 PM
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300Tdi rebuild

I am rebuilding my 300Tdi before I put it into my truck. Striping it down was easy and quick and only took a day to do.

The sleeves looked good and the piston rings were clean and tight. I did notice the conrod bearings had some copper exposed on the bottom end and some very light scoring on the crank. I am getting that reground and seeing what size bearings I will need to put back in.

An interesting thing I noticed is that crankshaft pulley shifted a bit on the outside. TDC was off a little to the left. When I pulled the crankshaft pulley I saw that the inside metal was soft enough to dig in to the keyway, thus moving the timing off a bit. Maybe this was some crappy aftermarket pulley used last time the timing belt was replaced.

Some upgrades: I will be using a 2.8MWM rear oil seal as I read they are a better upgrade from previous 300Tdi seal. Also looking to put a HD 130 clutch in the truck. Does anyone have any experience with these and the way they feel? I hear they are a little stiffer on pedal push. Also looking into an Xcess HD clutch fork and release bearing.
http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/images/4pin/clutch_L.jpg
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  #2  
Old June 23rd, 2014, 02:02 PM
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Old June 23rd, 2014, 02:02 PM
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Old June 23rd, 2014, 02:06 PM
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Daniel, Nicely done - I pulled apart a 300tdi yesterday as well. On the last motor swap I did we used a 130 clutch. Pedal feel is not much different than a standard clutch but there is more "chatter" "vibration" when in neutral with the clutch pedal released.

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Old June 23rd, 2014, 10:04 PM
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This very thing is what happen to the old mans truck. Tommy the mechanic discovered this while he was taking off the heads. It was much much more pronounced then what you found. Like you could easily move the crank wheel 15plus degrees or so. He said he never seen anything like that and was impressed that the truck was still running.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
An interesting thing I noticed is that crankshaft pulley shifted a bit on the outside. TDC was off a little to the left. When I pulled the crankshaft pulley I saw that the inside metal was soft enough to dig in to the keyway, thus moving the timing off a bit. Maybe this was some crappy aftermarket pulley used last time the timing belt was replaced.
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Old June 23rd, 2014, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mybluett View Post
Daniel, Nicely done - I pulled apart a 300tdi yesterday as well. On the last motor swap I did we used a 130 clutch. Pedal feel is not much different than a standard clutch but there is more "chatter" "vibration" when in neutral with the clutch pedal released.
Thanks! Do you prefer the 130 clutch or the stock clutch? I read the 130 is a little bit larger in diameter and the plate springs are stiffer. I doubt I will be towing much but it is my off road truck and I like to use it hard.
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Old June 24th, 2014, 10:27 AM
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I think mine is the 130 clutch. Its been four years and I ordered it over the phone so no way to check the records. I've driven a 3001tdi 130 and the clutch was fine. And I'm taller than you and have a bad left knee. Though I did eventually just put it in 1st low when we were crawling along in traffic on the M3 during the 1" deep snowstorm that paralyzed the entire south of England.

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Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
Thanks! Do you prefer the 130 clutch or the stock clutch? I read the 130 is a little bit larger in diameter and the plate springs are stiffer. I doubt I will be towing much but it is my off road truck and I like to use it hard.
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Old June 24th, 2014, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
An interesting thing I noticed is that crankshaft pulley shifted a bit on the outside. TDC was off a little to the left. When I pulled the crankshaft pulley I saw that the inside metal was soft enough to dig in to the keyway, thus moving the timing off a bit. Maybe this was some crappy aftermarket pulley used last time the timing belt was replaced.
The wallowed out keyway is a common problem typically caused by a loose crank bolt.
When the timing belt gets renewed, the crank bolt is often reinstalled without thread locker, not fully tightened, or both.

We have the special crank pulley wrenches for $99 if you need one.

Your rebuild is off to a good start.
If you haven't already, consider pop-testing the injectors, installing a new timing belt, and carefully inspect the crank timing gear. Often when the crank bolt gets loose enough to let the crank pulley wear out the keyway, the same thing happens to the crank timing gear. The good news is the crank is hardened, so the crank keyway usually stays intact.

Good luck.
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Old June 24th, 2014, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
I will be using a 2.8MWM rear oil seal as I read they are a better upgrade from previous 300Tdi seal
Where will you source it ?

Cheers
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Old June 24th, 2014, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
The wallowed out keyway is a common problem typically caused by a loose crank bolt. ...carefully inspect the crank timing gear. Often when the crank bolt gets loose enough to let the crank pulley wear out the keyway, the same thing happens to the crank timing gear. The good news is the crank is hardened, so the crank keyway usually stays intact.
Hey Robert, I think his picture was of the crank timing gear.
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Old June 24th, 2014, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
The wallowed out keyway is a common problem typically caused by a loose crank bolt.
When the timing belt gets renewed, the crank bolt is often reinstalled without thread locker, not fully tightened, or both.

We have the special crank pulley wrenches for $99 if you need one.

Your rebuild is off to a good start.
If you haven't already, consider pop-testing the injectors, installing a new timing belt, and carefully inspect the crank timing gear. Often when the crank bolt gets loose enough to let the crank pulley wear out the keyway, the same thing happens to the crank timing gear. The good news is the crank is hardened, so the crank keyway usually stays intact.

Good luck.
Thanks Robert, yea I was a little concerned when I saw that knocked out keyway but when inspecting the crank it looked fine. I will have a second look at the crank pulley and make sure that is fine.

Injectors are being send out this week for testing. Previous owner said they were new and the IP was new too, but why not test them and see.
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Old June 24th, 2014, 03:01 PM
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  #13  
Old June 24th, 2014, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Hey Robert, I think his picture was of the crank timing gear.
In my old age I can't see unless the spectacles are on my nose.
You're right that is the crankshaft timing gear.

I was looking at the close up (last picture), but couldn't tell if it were the pulley or the gear, but now that you mention it, the 2 previous pictures show the gear and I now know that after breaking out the glasses.
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Old June 24th, 2014, 04:40 PM
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haha yes that is my $5 Ace Hardware makeshift puller. I promise better photos next time
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Old June 29th, 2014, 10:37 PM
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A little more teardown today but mostly washing parts and cleaning everything for reassembly. Got I hate washing parts!

Dale thanks for the R380! Chris (sandman913) dropped it off Saturday and paid us a nice visit today.

I pushed the pins out of the piston con rods to see how the bush was inside. I noticed the copper color and thought this was bad as the crank bearings come with black/silver on them new and if you can see copper it is time to replace them. But I guess Land Rover con rods come new with a copper color on the sleeve. These look to be in good shape. I tested for any movement and there wasn't any.

For main bearings do you guys suggest Federal Mogul over the standard set STC3395? Is the quality worth the price? For me I would think so as this is a part you don't want premature wear on.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 09:07 AM
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Get a parts washer! They are sub $200 they usually heat the liquid and use a solvent and a circulating pump. I mean might be a little late now but they are great for small parts
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Old June 30th, 2014, 09:52 AM
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A new timing set typically comes with a replacement crank pulley anyways, so I wouldn't even worry about trying to salvage the old one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD View Post
Where will you source it ?

Cheers
Turner Engineering in the UK is where I pull mine from.

-Ash
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Old June 30th, 2014, 11:37 AM
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Jason, the big red thing that those parts are on is the parts washer. While I use that too for the small bits the larger pieces I just scrum down in a large bucket with degreasers and solvents. Was looking into getting a used dish washer
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Old June 30th, 2014, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
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Jason, the big red thing that those parts are on is the parts washer. While I use that too for the small bits the larger pieces I just scrum down in a large bucket with degreasers and solvents. Was looking into getting a used dish washer
Dishwasher would be tits; the combination of soap scrub and steam would be ideal for cleaning off years of shyte... Also imagine they cost about as much as the parts washer, maybe less used...
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Old July 3rd, 2014, 03:10 PM
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A new timing set typically comes with a replacement crank pulley anyways, so I wouldn't even worry about trying to salvage the old one.



Turner Engineering in the UK is where I pull mine from.

-Ash
I've been looking around and it's the only place I found it.
I think cross references are Perkins 0000110208 and Sabo 05239GHSIF.
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