300Tdi rebuild - Page 7 - Defender Source
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  #121  
Old March 25th, 2015, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Isn't the premise of Evans that you can run up higher temps and it doesn't matter because it doesn't boil over?
This is true, but they don't tell you that your engine oil will effectively be heated up too. While most engine oils can take 230f fine, I just don't know what the effect will be on the long term.

Load carrying capacity and film strength on oil lessens as its heated up. 10w30 might not be so good. 10w40 should be able to help on those higher temps. but how will my valves, seals, turbo etc take on 30/40f higher temps over a long period of time.


A very good read on engine oils and thermal heat


------ Follow up post added March 25th, 2015 03:52 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
This is only a problem if the heat transfer is limited inside the engine. The radiator heat loss is 99% controlled by the air side.
yup, you are right. heat transfer in the engine isn't so well. Its like having a thin gel in there.
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  #122  
Old March 25th, 2015, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
Thermostat is fine...
Are you 100% sure the temo gauge is providing an accurate reading?
Did you check it with an infrared temp gun?
Is it wired with uninterrupted (+) and (-) circuits (not shared)?
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  #123  
Old March 25th, 2015, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Are you 100% sure the temo gauge is providing an accurate reading?
Did you check it with an infrared temp gun?
Is it wired with uninterrupted (+) and (-) circuits (not shared)?
Its a brand new genuine one... though thats not to say its not broken already. I checked with a infrared temp gun and its accurate. I noticed the LH side is hotter, maybe due to the exhaust and down pipe and the RH side is cooler. I also replaced the temp sender. And I grounded the hell out of the engine too.

I will do some tests this weekend and post them. Im still testing somethings out on it since its not my daily driver and I've been too busy on the weekends to even give it a good shakedown.
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  #124  
Old March 25th, 2015, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
I checked with a infrared temp gun and its accurate.
Where - specifically - are you testing the IR gun versus the gauge reading?

I've always thought that there is temp loss across the medium anyhow (i.e. what the sender measures "inside" the block, versus what the IR is reading outside the block).
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  #125  
Old March 25th, 2015, 06:21 PM
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How are certain the thermostat is good? I had the exact same symptoms with a bad thermostat in my 300 tdi. It was fine around town, but ran warm on the highway.
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  #126  
Old March 25th, 2015, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
How are certain the thermostat is good? I had the exact same symptoms with a bad thermostat in my 300 tdi. It was fine around town, but ran warm on the highway.
I mean im not 100% sure but its a genuine new thermostat that I put in 3 months ago. But then again ive had parts fail right away. I could swap it easy. In town it take a bit to warm up but then hold 190s perfect.
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  #127  
Old March 27th, 2015, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
I mean im not 100% sure but its a genuine new thermostat that I put in 3 months ago. But then again ive had parts fail right away. I could swap it easy. In town it take a bit to warm up but then hold 190s perfect.
Its probably fine, I just was't sure how you determined that it is good.
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  #128  
Old March 27th, 2015, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
How are certain the thermostat is good? .
How do you test and determine a tstat is good?

All I do is put in boiling water and check when it opens with a thermometer.
I do this before installation, of course.

.
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  #129  
Old March 27th, 2015, 12:36 PM
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thermostats are cheap, if it's out, replace it.
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Present:
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1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
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  #130  
Old March 27th, 2015, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
thermostats are cheap, if it's out, replace it.
yeah, but why throw it out if it works?
Boil a pot of water and check it.
Check a new one before installation, too.

.
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  #131  
Old March 27th, 2015, 02:42 PM
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Boiling water only tells you that it opens. But, does it close? If it is old, toss it. And quit being such a CB.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #132  
Old March 27th, 2015, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Boiling water only tells you that it opens. But, does it close? If it is old, toss it. And quite being such a CB.
them there are feuding initials
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  #133  
Old March 27th, 2015, 03:31 PM
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I'm a CB for sure
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  #134  
Old March 27th, 2015, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Boiling water only tells you that it opens. But, does it close?
Take it out of the boiling water and see...

You've never had a new one that was bad?

Lucky.

.
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  #135  
Old March 27th, 2015, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Take it out of the boiling water and see...

You've never had a new one that was bad?

Lucky.

.
Brilliant !
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  #136  
Old March 27th, 2015, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Take it out of the boiling water and see...

You've never had a new one that was bad?

Lucky.

.
I've never had a new one bad, but I almost always use Genuine ones.
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  #137  
Old June 22nd, 2015, 02:05 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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So something bad happen this weekend. I was cruising on the highway temps are around 195 and I start to hear some knocking, so I pop it into neutral and the oil light blinks on and I shut the truck off and cruise to the side of the road. I let it cool down for a bit and start it back up and it sounds normal so I drive it a mile to a mall to call my friend to pick me up on a trailer. We tow it back to his house

oil pressure is 22-24psi when cold at idle. oil pressure is 15psi when warm at idle.
oil pressure is 30-35psi when warm on full load (2500-3000rpm) and this seems to be a bit low. Should be around 50psi right?

I take the sump off and inspect the conrod bearings. #4 is knackered up as thats the last one to get oil.

#1 is fine.


I also notice on #4 that the conrod was rubbing against the crank. It has some smashed metal between the two. I also find out that #4 cap was put in wrong by me. the actual number was facing RH side of the truck, while all the other conrod numbers face the LH side. Are the conrods sided? I know the piston is and im sure that was put in fine.



For reference on the numbers being LH sided:
https://youtu.be/oGfgR-RmqOo?t=3m24s

Crank journal is fine, but look at the side of the crank


Also the oil pressure relief valve is 44mm when they should be around 55mm long. Would this be in "relief" mode all the time and not helping build the correct pressure?


And #4 main bearing is fine too.



My plan of action is to take piston #4 out and flip the conrod around 180. Lightly file down burrs on conrod. Fit new genuine 55mm oil relief spring (even though the 300tdi manual is off and says it should be 66mm long)
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  #138  
Old June 22nd, 2015, 02:38 PM
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I always replace the pressure relief valve parts as a matter of course. How is your crankshaft thrust bearing? Rule of thumb for me is 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. 300tdi O.P. spec is surprisingly low.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #139  
Old June 22nd, 2015, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
I always replace the pressure relief valve parts as a matter of course. How is your crankshaft thrust bearing? Rule of thumb for me is 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. 300tdi O.P. spec is surprisingly low.
I put in a new thrust bearing on rebuild and the specs were great. Very little movement back and forth with the dial indicator.

There were a lot of gold shaving in the sump... almost looked like a conrod bearing was completely shredded, but I have yet to find where is came from. Need to take #2 and #3 off to see.
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