300Tdi rebuild - Page 6 - Defender Source
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  #101  
Old December 30th, 2014, 06:46 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilburner View Post
Dan it could just be the pump governor that is sticky from being in storage for a long time. VE's will do this. Best thing would be to run some ATF through it and just drive it. It may solve itself. Just add some ATF to every tank, a quart or two should do it.

Like Dave said, it could also be the shutoff solenoid but this sounds like a governor issue. I had all kinds of weird symptoms with a VE pump on my 6BT that were traced back to a gunked up governor. The more miles I put on it, the better it ran.
Yeah It is getting better the more I drive it and I think keeping it running more and more the diesel running though it is cleaning it up. But yes, some ATF will help out too i bet.
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  #102  
Old February 2nd, 2015, 02:01 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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How much oil vapor should be coming out of the air filter to turbo hose? I cleaned the breather but not sure how clean the inside is.

When I take the hose off from the turbo I can see a very light fog of vapor. Its not significant but not sure how mush is ok. Very light grey fog or should there be absolutely nothing?
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  #103  
Old February 2nd, 2015, 02:07 PM
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I'm not sure if anyone knows "how much". The CCV filter is not perfect. You get oil through the system. Does not hurt anything, if you ask me.
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  #104  
Old February 2nd, 2015, 03:02 PM
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Brandon
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Not much to clean

I changed mine and took the old one apart.
I though there was a filter medium in there but there is not
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  #105  
Old February 2nd, 2015, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRAB View Post
Not much to clean

I changed mine and took the old one apart.
I though there was a filter medium in there but there is not
It is not a filter - but a cyclonic separator to pull heavy oil out of suspension and return it to the block. When functioning correctly only oil vapor passes into the airway - this is why it is critical to not overfill the oil in the Tdi so that the cyclonic breather does not "wet-out" and allow liquid oil to pass into the air intake system.
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  #106  
Old February 2nd, 2015, 03:20 PM
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Didn't you put rings in this thing? It will probably take a while for them to break in. You'll see more blow by until everything seats in.
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  #107  
Old February 2nd, 2015, 04:12 PM
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I have seen a couple cyclonic seperators (cheap aftermarket) where the diaphragm deteriorated and swelled
up like mush. This caused the valve to stick and back pressure the case and pump oil. Make sure they are working correctly.
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  #108  
Old February 2nd, 2015, 04:38 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilburner View Post
Didn't you put rings in this thing? It will probably take a while for them to break in. You'll see more blow by until everything seats in.
hahaha no rings, I just tied some shoe laces to the top of the pistons. yeah I was thinking on a fresh rebuild with honing and new rings I would need some times for the new rings to set in. I doubt I am getting much plow by if any.
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  #109  
Old February 2nd, 2015, 10:53 PM
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When I put rings in my cruiser 4 cyl it took forever for them to bed in. It seriously took a good 5K miles, it had some pretty noticeable blowby, and then it cleaned right up.
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  #110  
Old March 24th, 2015, 05:03 PM
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Any updates on this build?
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  #111  
Old March 24th, 2015, 05:20 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Any updates on this build?
It's been done for a while now and i've ben driving it around and all is good. My steering box finally gave away and wouldn't hold any oil so I replaced that. But so far so good. Engine holds oil fine. I had to replace the turbo because I think after the rebuild some crap in the oil got into the turbo bearing and started to eat away at that... or the turbo on the engine was bad to begin with. not sure.

But ive change the oil once and going to do it again this weekend. I want any loose stuff from the rebuild out of the engine.

Boost is up to 20psi, Injection pump advanced. Timber trail fuel pin in and huge Allisport full width intercooler and it runs like a beast. It has more grunt than my V8.

3.54diffs, 1.4TC & 35" tires and I hold 72mph easy on the highway without flooring it. Switching to 255/85, genuine HD springs and a 1.4TC with Overdrive soon to keep the RPMs low yet be able to cruise fast.

Im not sure about the Evans Waterless Coolant. It doesn't seem to disperse the heat well when im holding 2500rpm on the highway, as it stays at 220. In town its nice and stays at 192ish. But I did a lot of reading on it and I may flush it out for regular coolant. still testing it out.
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  #112  
Old March 24th, 2015, 05:49 PM
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pull the sump pan and clean it out. I learned draining doesn't get everything out.
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  #113  
Old March 25th, 2015, 07:47 AM
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Thanks for the update and grats on the successful adventure. Sounds like things are moving as you planned.

Have you looked at the Ashcroft estimation charts re your configuration? Curious if your results are consistent with what the charts suggest we can expect with 3.54's and 1.4tc behind a tdi.

Clay.
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  #114  
Old March 25th, 2015, 08:23 AM
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Dan
I can tell you that my 200s have run at 190-195 on the highway 220 seems a bit high
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  #115  
Old March 25th, 2015, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
It's been done for a while now and i've ben driving it around and all is good. My steering box finally gave away and wouldn't hold any oil so I replaced that. But so far so good. Engine holds oil fine. I had to replace the turbo because I think after the rebuild some crap in the oil got into the turbo bearing and started to eat away at that... or the turbo on the engine was bad to begin with. not sure.

But ive change the oil once and going to do it again this weekend. I want any loose stuff from the rebuild out of the engine.

Boost is up to 20psi, Injection pump advanced. Timber trail fuel pin in and huge Allisport full width intercooler and it runs like a beast. It has more grunt than my V8.

3.54diffs, 1.4TC & 35" tires and I hold 72mph easy on the highway without flooring it. Switching to 255/85, genuine HD springs and a 1.4TC with Overdrive soon to keep the RPMs low yet be able to cruise fast.

Im not sure about the Evans Waterless Coolant. It doesn't seem to disperse the heat well when im holding 2500rpm on the highway, as it stays at 220. In town its nice and stays at 192ish. But I did a lot of reading on it and I may flush it out for regular coolant. still testing it out.
What thermostat are you running?

I would have though the thermoststat should be pretty closed on the highway with all the cooling available ... and we are still at pretty cold ambient. If it can't cool in the winter then you'll be screwed in the summer.

That evans stuff doesn't pressurize does it? I
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  #116  
Old March 25th, 2015, 11:40 AM
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I dont think the Evans stuff does because there is no water in the coolent. Thats why the people that use it like it so much.
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  #117  
Old March 25th, 2015, 03:16 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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Thermostat is fine

So what ive read about Evans is that because there is no water its efficiency to cool is about half as good as water. water is 1.1 and the most effective element to cool. Evans is like .6 or something, so just about half. I like that it doesn't pressurize but its ability to cycle and cool isn't so well. Its hard to explain.

Say you put a 1" diameter heating rod into a 5 gallon bucket of coolant or Evans. Both would do fine to keep the rod cool. They both would probably keep it at the same temperature around say 50c

Now say you put a 1" diameter heating rod into a coffee mug of coolant or Evans. Both would act different as the volume is a lot less. So water would keep it at lets say... 100c and Evans would be around 130c

It depends on the engine you put it in. One with larger coolant passages seems to work fine while slimmer coolant passages can keep the heat steady at really only 30 degrees more. Most people say its only brings it up 30 to 40 degrees more if that.

My friend is running it in his freshly rebuild Rover 4.6 and he is steady at 192 no matter what. I think those must have better passages to cycle the Evans around the block to keep it cool. I think but not sure, that the Tdi has smaller passages and less effective way to cycle the coolant to the radiator. Im not 100% on it and I still need to test it.

------ Follow up post added March 25th, 2015 03:17 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Thanks for the update and grats on the successful adventure. Sounds like things are moving as you planned.

Have you looked at the Ashcroft estimation charts re your configuration? Curious if your results are consistent with what the charts suggest we can expect with 3.54's and 1.4tc behind a tdi.

Clay.
yup, I am spot on. I have a 1.2tc but the alternator has a 49mm pulley so I am off 500rpm, but when I put the 1.4tc in it will read perfect.
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  #118  
Old March 25th, 2015, 03:27 PM
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This is only a problem if the heat transfer is limited inside the engine. The radiator heat loss is 99% controlled by the air side.
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  #119  
Old March 25th, 2015, 03:40 PM
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Isn't the premise of Evans that you can run up higher temps and it doesn't matter because it doesn't boil over?
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Present:
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  #120  
Old March 25th, 2015, 03:45 PM
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That is the point, but it does not help if the engine is damaged from running higher temperature.
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