300tdi out of vehicle - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 16th, 2014, 01:12 PM
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300tdi out of vehicle

Reaching out to hopefully get some insight on this. Have a 300tdi/r380/lt230 out of a vehicle right now. What have you done, or would you have done to get it sorted before install.

Right now I'm planning:

clutch kit
resurface flywheel
new slave
new rear main seal
timing belt kit
possibly new water pump

not sure what else....
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  #2  
Old April 16th, 2014, 01:50 PM
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thomas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
Reaching out to hopefully get some insight on this. Have a 300tdi/r380/lt230 out of a vehicle right now. What have you done, or would you have done to get it sorted before install. Right now I'm planning: clutch kit resurface flywheel new slave new rear main seal timing belt kit possibly new water pump not sure what else....
Message TDIGuy and get his input.
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  #3  
Old April 16th, 2014, 02:04 PM
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you going to do a new head gasket just because you can? if so, replace the valve stem seals and put hardened valve caps on it. new valve cover gasket, new rubber bushing for valve cover, and a new o-ring on the dipstick.

then after it's all done, make sweet, sweet love to it when nobody is looking.
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  #4  
Old April 16th, 2014, 02:07 PM
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I wanted to avoid doing H/Gs as it'll add quite a bit of time and costs to an already over-budget build, but I'm open to it...

We just have a lack of affordable machine shops in the area.
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Old April 16th, 2014, 02:08 PM
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if there's no issue, then skip it. HG's are pretty easy to do when the day comes.
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Old May 6th, 2014, 11:59 PM
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change the clutch fork to a reinforced type or this happen......s oh yeah........ do the P gasket
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  #7  
Old May 7th, 2014, 12:31 AM
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check all bottom end bearings/rods their around $65 from federal mogul
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  #8  
Old May 7th, 2014, 08:40 AM
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Replace the "P" gasket and pop-test the injectors.
Check the final drive gear and rear of main shaft on the R380.
Cross drill gear if it isn't or replace with a cross-drilled final drive gear.
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  #9  
Old May 7th, 2014, 09:02 AM
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If you do the water pump do the p gasket behind the housing. Make sure all the exhaust manifold studs are tight as they tend to back out. Now is the best time to install a pyrometer probe, new serp belt, while its off check the idler pulley bearing that is built into the front cover. Doing the head gasket on a diesel isn't like doing them on a v8. Typically on a diesel you just replace the gasket, no machine work. These engines run @ twice the psi that a gas engine does- over 400psi so the gasket sealing rings are prone to failure. Gaskets are cheap.
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  #10  
Old May 7th, 2014, 09:15 AM
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PM'ed you, also 2nd the suggestion by Doug to do the pyrometer probe and new serp belt then.
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  #11  
Old May 7th, 2014, 09:33 AM
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Thank you for the input guys, (and PM Danny). All very appreciated. Already did the rear main, flywheel, clutch, etc. Cleaned it as best I could on the back end. Doing timing belt tomorrow night.

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Old December 11th, 2014, 08:09 AM
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Head gasket is an easy job,if it fails after the engine is in the vehicle.

I'd change the front crankshaft seal and O ring whilst I was doing the timing belt. Corteco make the seals for Land Rover. Only use these or genuine seals in my experience. Replace any seals that you can see whilst the timing cover is off. Bearmach make an ideal OEM kit.

Avoid any Britpart seals like the Black Plague.

As stated change the P gasket (there was an upgraded one later in the engine builds)whilst it's easier to get at for the sake of a few dollars. The bolts from the water pump might need changed due to corrosion..if not clean and copper grease. Do not over tighten.

The serpentine belt tensioner....Land Rover sell this as a complete unit but....the tensioner bearing can be changed,again for a few dollars. Flip the seals out with a small screwdriver and pack with grease is what I do. Order two and put the other in your tool box.

Tensioner wheel bolt is left hand thread. Torque back onto engine at correct torque or it will thread.

Bearing serial number is 6203 2RS. (Bore 17mm OD 40mm Width 12mm)

I'd put in a new flywheel spigot bush also,for the sake fo a couple of dollars.If you don't have an old gearbox shaft to help with clutch alignment...use a spark plug socket with a couple of rolls of tape around it...this gets the correct diameter.

Weld a metal plate over that clutch fork to reinforce it if you're not buying a HD:it WILL wear through.

Check viscous fan bearing on timing belt cover for play. Easier to fit an electric fan to be honest.

Use OEM clutch and slave cylinder and never Britpart.IMO.


All of this can be done when engine is in also.


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  #13  
Old December 11th, 2014, 08:43 AM
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Thank you! I only wish you hadn't taken the time to write that 4 days after Brandon and I put the engine in!
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  #14  
Old December 11th, 2014, 08:48 AM
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LOL...it's always the way eh?


If you didn't get the front crankshaft seal replaced,you'll always see oil dripping out of the front wading plug hole as an early warning. You can take the front grill/radiator etc off if need be to do the change later. If your clutch pedal ever goes to the floor that'll be your clutch fork if it wasn't upgraded.



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