300Tdi not right - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 2nd, 2016, 03:26 PM
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300Tdi not right

I bought my 1988 110 with 300Tdi in March. Other than my transfer case problem (on another thread) I was pretty happy with the performance of the engine driving to SFO.

But, it seems to slowly be getting weaker. I'm wondering if I have a leak in the turbo, is there an easy way to check for leaks when I don't have a boost gauge?

It seems to take a long time for the turbo to spool up.

It seems the turbo spools down quickly.

It doesn't have the same top end power. Leaving Salt Lake City in March, I was able to get up to 80mph at 4700 feet elevation. Now at sea level, I'm straining to get above 65mph.

Low RPM torque? My 2.5NA beats the 300Tdi hands down.

I don't know if it's related, but it surges from time to time. Driving on a level road at 35 to 40 mph in 4th, it will start surging or bucking. Drives my wife NUTS!

Ideas?

Mike
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  #2  
Old August 2nd, 2016, 03:32 PM
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What about simple things like fuel filter, air filter, and valve adjustments?
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  #3  
Old August 2nd, 2016, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
What about simple things like fuel filter, air filter, and valve adjustments?
Fuel filter! Filter clogging = progressive loss of power
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  #4  
Old August 2nd, 2016, 03:53 PM
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Add leaking or collapsing intercooler hose or leaking or dirty intercooler to the list of suspects.
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  #5  
Old August 2nd, 2016, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
What about simple things like fuel filter, air filter, and valve adjustments?
Okay, fuel and air filters on the short list.

Valve adjustment isn't difficult, but not in the same league as fuel and air filter.

Mike

------ Follow up post added August 3rd, 2016 07:05 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
Add leaking or collapsing intercooler hose or leaking or dirty intercooler to the list of suspects.
The intercooler hoses look Okay. But the intercooler itself has corrosion. Unfortunately, an air leak doesn't leave the same evidence as an oil or antifreeze leak.

Mike
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  #6  
Old August 2nd, 2016, 04:33 PM
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An air leak (sucking in air) in the fuel lines will result in a lack of power too.

Change fuel filter 1st !!
Then try the air filter.
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  #7  
Old August 2nd, 2016, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
An air leak (sucking in air) in the fuel lines will result in a lack of power.
Sounds exactly like poor fuel delivery.
Find out why and fix it and you'll get your missing power back.
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  #8  
Old August 4th, 2016, 11:48 PM
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Oil and filter changed. Fuel filter changed. Air filter on order.

Disconnected the inter cooler hoses ran a cheap USB bore scope through. Also ran the bore scope as far into the inter cooler and intake manifold as I could.

Are all the oily grease deposits normal?

Blocked one end of the inter cooler and blew into the other as hard as I could. I do believe it has a couple pin hole leaks. Are these things repairable or should I buy a new one? Which one?

Mike
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  #9  
Old August 4th, 2016, 11:53 PM
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By the way, I'm going to have both of my Defenders on display at the Blackhawk Auto Museum in Danville, CA this Sunday.

The NCLR was invited to bring 15 Land Rovers and we have 17 committed so far. "Cars & Coffee" from 8:00 to 10:00 Sunday.

Blackhawk Museums ~ F1RST Sunday 'Cars & Coffee' on AUGUST 7

Mike
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  #10  
Old August 5th, 2016, 12:53 AM
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So with the fuel filter changed, how's the power?

The oil is normal. Usually maybe a table spoons worth every couple of years. You can clean it out with regular gasoline. Set it out in the bright sun to make sure the gas vapors are gone before re-install. Gas air (vapor) is heavy so put the ports downward and lower than the other end.

The small holes can be fixed with small amounts of JB Weld applied to a clean surface.
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  #11  
Old August 5th, 2016, 05:56 AM
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I had the same thing happen on my 300 Tdi and figured out it was the throttle cable going out of adjustment. The plastic nut at the engine end of the cable housing kept vibrating loose and would gradually increase cable length and reduce throttle travel. Over time the truck was only running on half throttle. It was great for fuel economy but I wasn't making any friends behind me. I finally got tired of adjusting the cable weekly and looped a piece of .032 steel safety wire around the plastic nut and it hasn't gone out of adjustment since.

Good luck!
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  #12  
Old August 5th, 2016, 06:46 AM
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Not seeing any FS here so either luck for a used one, repairing should be possible, Allisport (tdi guy) or RN
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  #13  
Old August 5th, 2016, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuamPilot View Post
Oil and filter changed. Fuel filter changed. Air filter on order.

Disconnected the inter cooler hoses ran a cheap USB bore scope through. Also ran the bore scope as far into the inter cooler and intake manifold as I could.

Are all the oily grease deposits normal?

Blocked one end of the inter cooler and blew into the other as hard as I could. I do believe it has a couple pin hole leaks. Are these things repairable or should I buy a new one? Which one?

Mike
From the pictures the fins look beat up. If it is leaking, replace it.
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"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #14  
Old August 5th, 2016, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
So with the fuel filter changed, how's the power?
After one test drive, it seems to have a little more low end pull, maybe less surging at mid-throttle in a middle gear, but still seems to be lacking trying to accelerate above 65mph.

Mike

------ Follow up post added August 6th, 2016 12:55 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by CMSgt Bo View Post
I had the same thing happen on my 300 Tdi and figured out it was the throttle cable going out of adjustment. The plastic nut at the engine end of the cable housing kept vibrating loose and would gradually increase cable length and reduce throttle travel. Over time the truck was only running on half throttle. It was great for fuel economy but I wasn't making any friends behind me. I finally got tired of adjusting the cable weekly and looped a piece of .032 steel safety wire around the plastic nut and it hasn't gone out of adjustment since.

Good luck!
Okay, I will check for full throttle travel. (Need to find my safety wire.)

Mike

------ Follow up post added August 6th, 2016 01:01 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
From the pictures the fins look beat up. If it is leaking, replace it.
If the fins weren't corroded, I would look at JB Weld or similar. Since it is corroding, I think any repair will just put off the inevitable replacement.

What is a good price and source for a new intercooler? Are there any "high performance" versions worth considering?

Is the intercooler easy to remove? Or do I need to take the radiator frame apart?

Mike
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  #15  
Old August 5th, 2016, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Sounds exactly like poor fuel delivery. Find out why and fix it and you'll get your missing power back.
This. I recently replaced my injectors and have been tuning the IP and it's made a big difference. I was having a similar decrease in performance. Also check the the boost pipe that runs from the turbo to the IP. Mine had a leak that was preventing full fuel delivery.
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  #16  
Old August 5th, 2016, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiftRover View Post
This. I recently replaced my injectors and have been tuning the IP and it's made a big difference. I was having a similar decrease in performance. Also check the the boost pipe that runs from the turbo to the IP. Mine had a leak that was preventing full fuel delivery.
Okay, I'll check the boost pipe next time I open the bonnet.

When you say you are tuning the IP, are you doing it yourself?

Mike
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  #17  
Old August 5th, 2016, 11:38 AM
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Yes. It's fairly complicated because there are a lot if variables: boost pin, star wheel, smoke screw, max fuel screw, idle screw and waste gate rod all have different effects and some of them overlap. But it's nothing to fear really. Doug's website has three different descriptions of what each adjustment does, that's where I started. There are several other descriptions out there too. Only issue is most describe how to adjust it from the stock settings, so if has already been messed with like mine it's harder to know which way to go. I actually found that less fuel in certain throttle ranges resulted in better power, because it was over fueling. Still working on it but it's much better now.
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  #18  
Old August 5th, 2016, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuamPilot View Post

Blocked one end of the inter cooler and blew into the other as hard as I could. I do believe it has a couple pin hole leaks.
If you are able to find a leak in the intercooler using lung power only, I think you identified the issue.
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  #19  
Old August 5th, 2016, 02:01 PM
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The pin hole leaks in the inter-cooler should also show exterior signs of black oil stains since oil gets in this piping from the engine breather (and possible the turbo).
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  #20  
Old August 5th, 2016, 05:40 PM
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Mike,
I can help you at the C&C on Sunday as I've been here before. There are upgrades to the intercooler. Full width or double wide. I went double wide as I have A/C. Also, I can walk you through the injection pump adjustments so you can play on your own.
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