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  #21  
Old August 5th, 2016, 06:08 PM
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You're flying blind. Fixing this problem by buying lots of redundant parts is a road to madness.
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  #22  
Old August 5th, 2016, 06:25 PM
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Mike & Carrie Wendt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Solis View Post
Mike,
I can help you at the C&C on Sunday as I've been here before. There are upgrades to the intercooler. Full width or double wide. I went double wide as I have A/C. Also, I can walk you through the injection pump adjustments so you can play on your own.
I look forward to talking with you. Not sure when but we plan to add A/C to our 110.

Mike

------ Follow up post added August 6th, 2016 09:29 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
You're flying blind. Fixing this problem by buying lots of redundant parts is a road to madness.
And your suggested "Road of Sanity"?

So far, all I've bought are regular maintenance items. I'm looking at a new intercooler because mine is corroded and leaks. Where is my madness?

Mike
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  #23  
Old August 5th, 2016, 07:45 PM
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I know from experience

You need a sensor that can determine how much fuel you're putting into the system. AFR or EGT.

Without those sensors you need to tune the engine to a baseline fuelwise.
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  #24  
Old August 15th, 2016, 09:00 AM
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Mike & Carrie Wendt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiftRover View Post
Also check the the boost pipe that runs from the turbo to the IP. Mine had a leak that was preventing full fuel delivery.
Boost pipe connected at both ends, visual and touch inspected as much as I can. Seems Okay, I need to disconnect and check for blockage.

------ Follow up post added August 16th, 2016 12:02 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
I know from experience

You need a sensor that can determine how much fuel you're putting into the system. AFR or EGT.
Planning to buy a Madman.

------ Follow up post added August 16th, 2016 12:05 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
What about simple things like fuel filter, air filter, and valve adjustments?
Air filter delivered and installed. Just like the fuel filter, no detectable change. Will do valve adjustment when the timing belt is changed.

------ Follow up post added August 16th, 2016 12:08 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by CMSgt Bo View Post
I had the same thing happen on my 300 Tdi and figured out it was the throttle cable going out of adjustment. The plastic nut at the engine end of the cable housing kept vibrating loose and would gradually increase cable length and reduce throttle travel. Over time the truck was only running on half throttle. It was great for fuel economy but I wasn't making any friends behind me. I finally got tired of adjusting the cable weekly and looped a piece of .032 steel safety wire around the plastic nut and it hasn't gone out of adjustment since.

Good luck!
Throttle cable inspected. Stepping on the gas pedal, the cable pulls to the stop. But I don't know if the stop is correct.
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  #25  
Old August 15th, 2016, 09:26 AM
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Overfuling as Mike Barnett suggests does not equal more performance... just sends money out the exhaust pipe.
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  #26  
Old August 15th, 2016, 10:01 AM
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Mike & Carrie Wendt
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While looking at the boost pipe, I found this 3 connector cable which is not connected to anything. And I don't see any socket for it either.

The other end of the cable is circled where it goes into the injector.

This is a 21L engine from a Discovery transplanted into my 88 Defender.

Mike & Carrie
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  #27  
Old August 15th, 2016, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuamPilot View Post
While looking at the boost pipe, I found this 3 connector cable which is not connected to anything. And I don't see any socket for it either.

The other end of the cable is circled where it goes into the injector.

This is a 21L engine from a Discovery transplanted into my 88 Defender.

Mike & Carrie
That is a throttle position sensor that is no longer needed.
Your engine will run fine without it.
Am no expert on this setup, but was told that this was originally part of the control for the EGR valve.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

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UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #28  
Old August 15th, 2016, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiftRover View Post
Yes. It's fairly complicated because there are a lot if variables: boost pin, star wheel, smoke screw, max fuel screw, idle screw and waste gate rod all have different effects and some of them overlap. But it's nothing to fear really. Doug's website has three different descriptions of what each adjustment does, that's where I started. There are several other descriptions out there too. Only issue is most describe how to adjust it from the stock settings, so if has already been messed with like mine it's harder to know which way to go. I actually found that less fuel in certain throttle ranges resulted in better power, because it was over fueling. Still working on it but it's much better now.
I haven't touched that site in many years and it shows. Somehow it got trashed when moved.
Need to completely redo the site and move it to a different server. Had planned on simplifying it and dropping pages like the links and tech stuff. Had no feel for people still referring to it.
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  #29  
Old August 15th, 2016, 11:19 AM
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First make sure that the basics are good. Clean air filter and a good supply of fuel to the injection pump.

Then check timing is correct.

If still the power is down, you need a boost gauge and EGT gauge and learn how to understand and adjust the values or find someone to help you through it.
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  #30  
Old August 17th, 2016, 10:13 PM
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British 4X4 of Reno

This wasn't part of my plan.

Sunday, we drove to Reno to look for property. From San Francisco the 110 ran as well as it's been running. Except, towards the end of the day it would occasionally idle too slow, even stalling at idle. It's never done that.

Monday it ran fine driving to breakfast. After breakfast it idled too slow, would stall at idle and wouldn't go over 20mph without cutting out, hesitating and bucking. Undrivable.

Limped a few miles to Pep Boys. "We don't work on diesel." After numerous calls ("no imports", "no diesel", "first appointment in 10 days") I called British 4X4 of Reno.

A BIG thumbs up to Brian Thornhill!! Told me to bring it right over. Up on his lift he found my injection pump is leaking. After discussing options, he offered to tighten what he could reach, to see if it would help.

Back on the road things were normal. For 15 miles. Then it started doing the same bucking, cutting out, undrivable. We returned to British 4X4.

So, Brian is pulling the IP and shipping it to an IP specialist in Dallas. He will change the timing belt too.

The IP guy is supposed to be able to bench test and determine what needs to be fixed/overhauled.

A bit of an unplanned budget buster but I expect it to clear up most of my issues with the engine. What else should be looked at?

Mike & Carrie
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  #31  
Old August 18th, 2016, 05:44 AM
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I'll send you a spare right now that will get you going. Give me an addy and I'll overnight it
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  #32  
Old August 18th, 2016, 06:30 AM
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That's a really nice offer.
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  #33  
Old August 18th, 2016, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I haven't touched that site in many years and it shows. Somehow it got trashed when moved. Need to completely redo the site and move it to a different server. Had planned on simplifying it and dropping pages like the links and tech stuff. Had no feel for people still referring to it.
Doug, I knew that you had the info about tuning on there a long time ago so when I finally got around to fooling with it that's where I started. I found another version somewhere that was easier to read and better at explaining what each thing does. I saved that one into a word document fir future reference.
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  #34  
Old August 18th, 2016, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuamPilot View Post
This wasn't part of my plan... What else should be looked at?

Mike & Carrie
If they are fixing the pump, have brian pull the injectors and have them pop tested to check the spray patterns.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #35  
Old August 18th, 2016, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
If they are fixing the pump, have brian pull the injectors and have them pop tested to check the spray patterns.
Good idea!

Mike & Carrie
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  #36  
Old August 18th, 2016, 01:36 PM
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Not to be a wet blanket, but why didn't he use a local business, there are 2 within spittin' distance of his shop.
Diamond Diesel - Sparks NV Office | Diamond Diesel & Turbo Service, Inc.
and
Sierra Diesel Injection @ Mill St. & I580 by the GS Resort

Both can do the pop test (Brian won't be able to do it himself)
Diamond does them for free.
If he pulls the injectors, you'll need new copper crush washers on hand, hard to come by from a standard US Bosch supplier.

Has Brian ever done a belt change on a 300Tdi ?
I doubt there are any in the Reno area.
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  #37  
Old August 18th, 2016, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
Not to be a wet blanket, but why didn't he use a local business, there are 2 within spittin' distance of his shop.
Diamond Diesel - Sparks NV Office | Diamond Diesel & Turbo Service, Inc.
and
Sierra Diesel Injection @ Mill St. & I580 by the GS Resort

Both can do the pop test (Brian won't be able to do it himself)
Diamond does them for free.
If he pulls the injectors, you'll need new copper crush washers on hand, hard to come by from a standard US Bosch supplier.

Has Brian ever done a belt change on a 300Tdi ?
I doubt there are any in the Reno area.
Brian explained that nobody in the area wants to work on anything "Rover" even if it's the same IP is used on thousands of Volkswagens in the U.S. He's used the guy in Dallas before, with good results. Bosch recommended the Dallas shop.

Brian has 200Tdi and 300Tdi experience and has recently changed a 300 timing belt.

I'll have him pull the injectors and send for the pop test (and ensure he has the copper washers.)

Thanks,

Mike & Carrie
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  #38  
Old September 22nd, 2016, 09:28 PM
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Follow up.

We picked up our 110 last week. British 4X4 of Reno completed it when promised.

Bill Adams! A big thumbs up and THANK YOU for the IP! It's running like a champ. Brian Thornhill says it's the best running 300Tdi he has driven.

I drove it above 7500' and it still has power.

Timing belt was changed at the same time.

Injectors were not pop tested. "It's running so good why pull them?" No argument from me.

No more surging or bucking at any speed/gear.

Way more low end torque. With the old IP it seemed I didn't hear the turbo spin up until about 1800 rpm on the tach. Now it's spinning up below 1400 rpm.

Sometime I will send the old IP to the Dallas guy. It will be nice to have a spare.

My only concern is it puts out some black smoke under load, from sea level to 7500'. Is that an adjustment I can work with or do I leave well enough alone?

By the way, Carrie is taking this 110 to Wisconsin in a few days. Solo.

Mike & Carrie
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  #39  
Old September 22nd, 2016, 09:33 PM
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A little black smoke under load is normal. You can try to get rid of it but it's a diesel, they smoke. I learned in my profession the enemy of good is better. I'd leave it alone
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  #40  
Old September 22nd, 2016, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Solis View Post
...the enemy of good is better.
I like that! I'm going to steal it!

I'd still like to take you up on your offer of space and help. The 110 timing belt was changed in Reno, now the 2.5NA in the 90 needs the same love.

Thanks,

Mike & Carrie
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