1986 110 SW - Straight off the boat, slow 'renew' - Page 4 - Defender Source
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  #61  
Old December 20th, 2014, 06:55 AM
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Good job! You will love when it is back on the road and wonder how you ever dealt with that lump 2.5na. It will be so much more drivable.
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  #62  
Old January 13th, 2015, 10:42 PM
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Very, very cool.
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  #63  
Old January 18th, 2015, 01:58 PM
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1986 RHD 110 SW OM617
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It pains me to say it, but the truck is parked under a barn and engine-less for at least the next 5 months. Final kit parts arrived the day before I PCS'd back at the beginning of the month; there was no way to take the truck unless I got the engine in before leaving.

Third kid due in March... So probably may/June before I can get back down to NC to continue the install.

Not trying to be dramatic, but I feel like I'm missing an appendage without the truck up here!
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  #64  
Old May 6th, 2015, 05:27 PM
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Welp, its finally time to head back to NC to get working on this truck. I'm taking a week of leave in May to at least get enough done on it to tow it back to NY. This move won't win me any marriage awards... but 5 months is long enough. All I can really offer you is free beer and lunch, but if you want to come down to NC so get some hands on with an OM617 install feel free!

Tasks for that week:
- Valve adjustment/reinstall valve cover
- Reinstall harmonic balancer/vibration damper (need 250 ft/lb torque wrench)
- Reinstall all pulleys (need new drive pulley)
- Reinstall alternator
- Reinstall power steering pump
- Install Engine Mounts, case-side
- Install Flywheel/clutch
- Install bellhousing adapter
- Install bellhousing
- Mate LT77 to bellhousing
- Move truck from the barn
- Install engine mounts, frame-side
- Remove engine from stand, place on trailer, move to combine shed
- Install engine/trans, secure mounts
- Install LT230 XC
- Reinstall prop shafts
- reinstall LT77 shift components
- Reinstall LT230 linkages, one of which needs repair
- Electrical: just starting and charging
- Engine stop solution, temporary (vac pump, syringe?)
- Brief Test start with temp fuel setup
- Fuel plumbing
- Oil cooler plumbing (stainless, parts acquired)
- New engine oil
- Brief test start
- Radiator/heater plumbing
- Clutch prime, bleed, adjust
- Test drive, <15 mph, <5 minutes
- Take to 'Road and Trail' for custom stainless 3" straight exhaust, pending time and availability

If time:
- Intercooler plumbing
- Air filter, drain setup
- Electrical: Boost, EGT, Oil temp, tach, oil pressure, digital voltage
- Reinstall interior body panels
- E-brake solution (tap LT230 for drum or xBrake?)
- Plumb power steering (outsource?)
- Run new breathers (need to buy)

If no time for^:
- Reinstall grill/hood
- Reinstall ARB (needs new hardware)
- Mount on trailer


Unfortunately its been long enough that I don't really remember what I'm walking back in to or what parts I have on hand or which still need to be ordered.

In the meantime, I finally scored a high runner exhaust manifold from a W115. Last one I saw sold on ebay for $600+... got this one for $150 and felt like I won the lottery! This, paired with the 200tdi rad/int setup I got from Uncle Douglas should yield a more spirited pull from this old turbo diesel.

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  #65  
Old June 28th, 2015, 05:48 PM
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1986 RHD 110 SW OM617
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Been busting my ass on this truck -- haven't taken the time to update it's thread in a while. Lots of photos, some of which show up sideways... maybe admins can help that?

Went down at the end of may and spent 4 days trying to pick up where I left off on this thing in December. Picking up the pieces was as difficult as I expected, but after a day of dusting off boxes and organizing parts/hardware I started to make process.

The worst part of this whole process was that I worked alone in conditions that were pretty rough and demanded a lot of patience and ingenuity. My big goal, despite the conditions, was to take my time and not break anything that would 'stop the presses' and waste the trip south. The whole goal was to get the truck trailerable back to NY. I would estimate that the time taken for relatively simple tasks like installing the gearbox/XC were probably doubled from shop standards.

I managed to get everything in with the help of a tractor, an old carriage barn and a single hoist. After cleaning up, I loaded her up on an absurdly expensive uhaul trailer and got her back to NY.

Since then, I've been working on the ancillaries and trying to get her running.

Electrical hookup was very straight forward with the stock 2.5 NA harness. Pretty plug and play actually. I'm using just the 2.5 NA's glowplug relay, wired directly to a fused hub that then sends power to the glow plugs individually. I may use the Mercedes controller eventually, but I expect this will work fine for now.

Oil cooler lines were a PITA because of the rotation of the IP. Eventually decided just to remove the oil filter housing, install the hose ends, then reinstall. Wasted a ton of time trying to avoid this messy task.

Fuel is also straight forward. I'm using a K&N fuel pump mounted on the lowest part of the frame aft the bulkhead.

Unfortunately, the truck isn't running yet. This has surprised me because the engine ran well, albeit in need of a valve adjustment, before I pulled it from the Mercedes. I've checked glow plugs and continuity to glow plugs. Fuel is flowing to the injectors. I've jumped from my suburban to make sure the starter was getting enough juice. Nothing.

Next step in diagnosis is to drain the tank and start with fresh diesel. I don't think this is the issue, but I'm going to try. The engine ran off fuel that was likely 5+ years old before being pulled from the donor vehicle.

Simultaneously I am going to soak the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil to address any possibility of stuck rings/poor compression. If none of this works I'll be at an impasse.

In the mean time I've also ordered all of the couplers and tubing to 'plumb' the intercooler. Used a combination of cx racing and amazon. Amazon's couplers/bends were cheaper... but cx racing's aluminum tubing was hard to match.

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  #66  
Old June 30th, 2015, 09:35 AM
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Robert Davis
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Dave:
Looking good!

A few comments:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ontheway View Post
Electrical hookup was very straight forward with the stock 2.5 NA harness. Pretty plug and play actually. I'm using just the 2.5 NA's glowplug relay, wired directly to a fused hub that then sends power to the glow plugs individually. I may use the Mercedes controller eventually, but I expect this will work fine for now.
Glow plug circuits are not fused.
This could cause you issues.
A glow plug pulses current use to prevent the wiring from heating up.
When you add a fuse, the fuse strip generally won't blow out, but will heat up to a point where a plastic fuse holder will melt.

Check to make sure you have the fuel lines installed correctly.
No names mentioned but someone called me with the same issue and he had the inlet and return lines reversed.

Also the return line loops back to the fuel filter and this recirculates trapped air in the fuel just like the original routing of the 2.5 N/A Land Rover engine.
If you remove the banjo bolt where the return line joins the filter and replace it with a solid bolt, this will prevent the return line fuel from entering the fuel filter and send trapped air back to the fuel tank.

Do not use any type of starting fluid as this will damage the combustion components.

Make sure the vacuum port on the back of the IP is open and not under vacuum pressure.
If it is, the engine will not get any fuel because it will be in the shut down state.
Your kit should have come with a brass T with 2 X 3/8" fitting and one small vacuum port.
The T is installed in the vacuum line leading from the vacuum pump to the brake booster.
The small vacuum port goes to the engine shutoff button.
The button has to be installed so that when pushed it sends vacuum to the IP pump shutoff to stop the engine. If it is installed backwards or if you do not hold the button down long enough to bleed all the vacuum out, then the engine won't restart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ontheway View Post
Next step in diagnosis is to drain the tank and start with fresh diesel. I don't think this is the issue, but I'm going to try. The engine ran off fuel that was likely 5+ years old before being pulled from the donor vehicle.
Instead of going to all that trouble if the tank is not full of fuel you can feed the engine from a fresh can of clean diesel and let the return line go back to the tank if you think fuel is really an issue.
An OM617 in good shape will run on anything combustible, so old fuel should not be an issue.
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"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
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  #67  
Old July 2nd, 2015, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Dave:
Looking good!

A few comments:
Robert,

Thanks as always for taking the time to help.

Fuel lines are properly routed

Replaced the glow plug wiring setup I had with a single non-fused 5-post bus. Direct from the original 2.5NA non-timed lead. Good continuity as before.

I've left the shutoff on the rear of the IP 'open' for now, just to make sure no issues there.

I've removed the glow plugs again to put some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and let it sit. The rear-most cylinder plug was covered in oil. I know this indicate a number of issues.

When I attempt to start (being jumped off my suburban to ensure good power to starter) I get what sounds like a single cylinder combustion every few rotations of the crank. It does not catch or repeat itself and it is not significant. Just a small combustion and very faint smoke from the exhaust. Other than that, it is completely non-responsive to the cranking.

Again, fuel is flowing to the prechambers.

Just got two cheap used 14mm wrenches in the mail today to take to the machine shop to have bent and ground into proper valve adjustment wrenches. Once those are done I'll go at the valves as well.

Open to any guessing or advice from any forum members!
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  #68  
Old July 4th, 2015, 11:31 PM
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Truck is running! Sounds crazy to yall that have been doing this a while, but this felt like quite an accomplishment after all the solitary hard work and learning I've done with this install!

I'm not sure exactly what got it running because I did three things simultaneously to attempt to get it going:

1)Soaked the cylinders in marvel mystery oil
2)Rewired the fuel pump and bled the fuel system again
3)rewired the glow plugs

Maybe all three needed to be done.... Who knows. I'm just glad it's running

Next:
Coolant plumbing
Intercooler plumbing
Air intake plumbing with catch can
New clutch slave cylinder
Valve adjust
Gauge wiring
Fan install

------ Follow up post added July 4th, 2015 11:39 PM ------

http://youtu.be/hmODPTBNRCc
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  #69  
Old July 5th, 2015, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontheway View Post
Truck is running!
Congratulations!!!
Valve adjustment will help it as well.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #70  
Old July 5th, 2015, 10:39 AM
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sweet sound of success!
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  #71  
Old July 5th, 2015, 11:09 AM
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Outstanding! On the homestretch, you will be done before you know it.
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  #72  
Old July 5th, 2015, 11:38 AM
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Nice!!
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  #73  
Old July 6th, 2015, 07:21 PM
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Parts are slowly coming in - got half of the IC plumbing mocked tonight and should be able to make the other half work after modding some of the aluminum pipe I received from cxracing.

Now to figure out what combination of coolant hose will work...

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  #74  
Old July 6th, 2015, 08:02 PM
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Yep, you are definitely post command if you have this much time for these shenanigans. Great work, Im jealous!
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  #75  
Old July 15th, 2015, 07:11 PM
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Slow progress these days just waiting on parts.

Intercooler is plumbed though!

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Waiting on 3" aluminum intake pipe (45 degree, 18") and a new slave cylinder. After that will plumb cooling, have down pipe made, then should be rolling enough to get it to the exhaust shop for a straight through 3" stainless exhaust
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  #76  
Old July 15th, 2015, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontheway View Post
Slow progress these days just waiting on parts.

Intercooler is plumbed though!

Attachment 125097

Waiting on 3" aluminum intake pipe (45 degree, 18") and a new slave cylinder. After that will plumb cooling, have down pipe made, then should be rolling enough to get it to the exhaust shop for a straight through 3" stainless exhaust
Some how you rolling around West Point with a 3 inch straight pipe is putting a big smile on my face.
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  #77  
Old July 15th, 2015, 07:34 PM
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I think about this just about every day Doug, and it makes me smile too.
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  #78  
Old July 15th, 2015, 07:44 PM
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Did you do an upside down 200tdi radiator / IC?

Love seeing the IC hooked up. That will be stage 2 for me. For now my intake will be tubing and a port that will feed into a custom catch can. The stock air filter will fit but it take up so much room and will need mods to work with the radiator overflow tank and windshield washer canister.

Can't wait to see what that 3" exhaust looks like!
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  #79  
Old July 23rd, 2015, 02:31 PM
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Slow progress as I get to the details and simultaneously run out of money. Right now I'm on a schedule of '1 week wait, 20 minutes of work' when it comes to making progress. This week it was the fan. I ordered a new manufacture Taurus fan, which I'll be wiring with the popular Volvo fan relay. Click image for larger version

Name:	image-551719449.jpg
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ID:	125666 Required more cutting than I expected, which left the fan housing pretty open on the intercooler side. In the long term I plan to fabricate an aluminum housing that will work better than the chopped up piece I am running now!
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  #80  
Old July 24th, 2015, 05:03 PM
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So have you driven it Dave ?
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