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  #1  
Old February 26th, 2015, 08:23 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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110 door rebuild

First off sorry about the multiple posts. I can only download one pic at a time. I got my hands on some decent NAS 110 doors with minimal surface rust. I started out by trying to clean them up with a grinder but quickly realized that just wasn't going to work
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  #2  
Old February 26th, 2015, 08:27 PM
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Realizing the grinding was not going to work I moved on to peeling the skin off. I used a 2.5" chisel, worked pretty well.
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  #3  
Old February 26th, 2015, 08:29 PM
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After trying to carefully peel the skin off so it could be reused, I again realized it was not going to work for me so I let my frustration take over and ripped the skin of. The cost of the new skins isn't worth the headach
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  #4  
Old February 26th, 2015, 08:32 PM
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I got the doors stripped the felts of whatever hardware that was left on them so now they are ready for sandblasting tomorrow. Still trying to decide between powder coating and having them galvanized
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  #5  
Old February 26th, 2015, 08:33 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayz View Post
I got the doors stripped the felts of whatever hardware that was left on them so now they are ready for sandblasting tomorrow. Still trying to decide between powder coating and having them galvanized
any advice from someone that has done this is welcomed
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  #6  
Old February 26th, 2015, 08:40 PM
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mark kellgren
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I'm going to enjoy following this! I'll be doing this someday in the future if I don't upgrade to puma doors. Keep up the work log!
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  #7  
Old February 26th, 2015, 08:50 PM
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The further I dig into this the more I think it would have just been easier to buy door shells and swap the parts but I wouldn't get the quality coating on the frames. I will keep track of cost and see if it pencils out. Doing most of the work myself. I have a sandblaster showing up at work tomorrow. I was quoted 400 bucks to blast and chem treat the frames so there is a little savings
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  #8  
Old February 26th, 2015, 09:27 PM
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I broke my series doors down. They have tops and bottoms. I did the same thing to get the skins off. Smaller flat head screw driver first to 'start' a corner and then moved to larger 2 and 3in chisels to lift the edges up all the way around. If you're going to re-use the skins (I did) you have to be very patient, work slowly and be careful or you'll damage the skin. It was my experience that the trickiest or most fragile part of the skin was the inner area around the window. The lip or folded over part was not as wide, so there is more potential for it to rip if you go too fast.

My doors and windows had narrow gaps in the corners of the frames, so after I took the rust and paint off I welded the corners solid. Fixing any seams and/or replacing any badly rusted channel. After all that prep was done, I had them galvanized. I think I spent under $150 bucks to do all of them, not really sure but it wasn't much. I like and kept the dings and old paint, but now they are solid.

Not sure if any of this applies with your style of doors, but I thought I'd share just in case.
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  #9  
Old February 26th, 2015, 09:32 PM
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Doug Crowther
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Galvanize and get galv steel door skins instead of aluminum. Powder coat is just a paint of sorts. No substitute for zinc
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  #10  
Old February 26th, 2015, 09:35 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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Stephen used to have the Galvy skins. I called today and they are checking if they can get more. Is there another source here in the states if they can't come up with them. When they had them before I think they were 300 a pair

------ Follow up post added February 26th, 2015 09:38 PM ------

When I was cleaning them up I found that the lower sections had regular welds but up around the door latch it looks like they used copper or brass rod. Seemed odd to me, they are supposedly stock 93 NAS doors
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  #11  
Old February 26th, 2015, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Galvanize and get galv steel door skins instead of aluminum. Powder coat is just a paint of sorts. No substitute for zinc
x2 If I were going to not re-use the existing skins I would have replaced with the galvy steel ones. And I'm trying to 'warm up' to powder coating. I just like galvy more.
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  #12  
Old February 26th, 2015, 09:41 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbfritz_03 View Post
I broke my series doors down. They have tops and bottoms. I did the same thing to get the skins off. Smaller flat head screw driver first to 'start' a corner and then moved to larger 2 and 3in chisels to lift the edges up all the way around. If you're going to re-use the skins (I did) you have to be very patient, work slowly and be careful or you'll damage the skin. It was my experience that the trickiest or most fragile part of the skin was the inner area around the window. The lip or folded over part was not as wide, so there is more potential for it to rip if you go too fast.

My doors and windows had narrow gaps in the corners of the frames, so after I took the rust and paint off I welded the corners solid. Fixing any seams and/or replacing any badly rusted channel. After all that prep was done, I had them galvanized. I think I spent under $150 bucks to do all of them, not really sure but it wasn't much. I like and kept the dings and old paint, but now they are solid.

Not sure if any of this applies with your style of doors, but I thought I'd share just in case.
Thanks for the advice, after they are blasted I will see how poorly they are put together and definitely beef them up where needed

------ Follow up post added February 26th, 2015 09:45 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Galvanize and get galv steel door skins instead of aluminum. Powder coat is just a paint of sorts. No substitute for zinc
Galvanize THEN powdercoat! They will last forever. Can I put bolts in the threaded areas or do I need to get the right taps and chase the threads after gavy?
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  #13  
Old February 26th, 2015, 09:50 PM
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DEFENDER LH GALV STEEL PUSH BUTTON FRONT DOOR SKIN
DEFENDER RH GALV STEEL PUSH BUTTON FRONT DOOR SKIN
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  #14  
Old February 26th, 2015, 09:52 PM
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I had the same Q on what to do...ended up getting fully galvanized doors, primed, from SPL land rovers. They are awesome.
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  #15  
Old February 26th, 2015, 10:32 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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Quote:
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I had the same Q on what to do...ended up getting fully galvanized doors, primed, from SPL land rovers. They are awesome.
I was just looking at that exact site. I'm scared to get a shipping quote though. Thanks Doug
Joney have you built them out yet, did you get all new felts and all the little bits or did you re-use all your old parts. I think the most time consuming part of this is going to be finding all the parts. If I am going to do this I have to replace most Everything. My doors are shot
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  #16  
Old February 26th, 2015, 10:39 PM
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This way when you move on to your next project, at least doors won't be such a mystery. That's how I look at it anyway. I have two other trucks waiting after this one. Google and YouTube are invaluable. Get new felts and seals
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  #17  
Old February 26th, 2015, 10:54 PM
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Doug Crowther
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayz View Post
I was just looking at that exact site. I'm scared to get a shipping quote though. Thanks Doug
Joney have you built them out yet, did you get all new felts and all the little bits or did you re-use all your old parts. I think the most time consuming part of this is going to be finding all the parts. If I am going to do this I have to replace most of the parts. My doors are shot
Craig will I think agree, the dude has crazy low shipping costs.
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  #18  
Old February 26th, 2015, 11:07 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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Craig will I think agree, the dude has crazy low shipping costs.
The website says free shipping but that can't apply to us on this side of the pond
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  #19  
Old February 26th, 2015, 11:12 PM
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Doug Crowther
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayz View Post
The website says free shipping but that can't apply to us on this side of the pond
of course not but was nowhere near as brutal as I expected when I got the door skins.
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  #20  
Old February 26th, 2015, 11:33 PM
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Just placed the order. Got the skins felts and water seals. We'll see what the shipping adds up to tomorrow.
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