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  #41  
Old August 4th, 2013, 12:29 AM
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Mark Bichin
97 NAS Station Wagon LE
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I take the truck back to IWE to talk about the vibration and the gear noise... He tells me that the vibration is probably coming from the new driveshafts as they are spinning much faster than they were... Ian mentions to me that one of the nuts on the driveshaft was stripped so they put a different nut and bolt on (longer) and that could be giving it a bit of a wobble... As for the gear noise he reminds me that they were all my parts... He tells me to run it for 500 miles and then check the oil... He starts going off about how when they make smaller runs of gear sets sometimes their tolerances are not as good... I ask him what would happen if I'm 50 miles down a trail in the woods and the rear diff gives out on me... He says carry a spare....

Not happy...

I contacted the board member that I bought these from.. He swears that they ran quietly on his 97 d90 auto NAS with 33s ( exact setup I have). The only reason he removed them was to get more value out of his truck which was for sale. This is a standup guy that has sold many things on these boards without any hint of a problem and I believe him...

I would have them redo the job right away but I had already booked my truck into another shop to have my lift done the next day... When the lift is done I'm going back there...
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  #42  
Old August 6th, 2013, 01:31 AM
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Mark Bichin
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Okay let's deal with THE LIFT:

So I've been piecing things together from board members and other places for a while now... For hose of you who haven't been keeping track of my myriad of purchases,this is what's going down...

I'm basically following the old safarigard stage three j.e.k. lift with a few modifications (btw j.e.k. = jeep eater kit)

Rear:
Safari guard 3" linear springs with the long travel kit

Looks like



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Works like



The little helper spring allows the main spring to unseat but pulls it back into position. Unlike cones however, the axle is still exerting full weight on the corner of the truck and is predictable through every inch of articulation...

You will also notice the long travel shock mounts... These were hard to find so I finally ended up getting a set fabricated... The fab shop did an awesome job following the original design...

I'm not going to use the original safari gard rear links... I picked up a set of these to use instead....



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RTE curry jointed rear links

They looked a lot tougher than the original links... Also the curry joints will give crazy travel... I'm hoping to get around 14" from the rear possibly more.
They remove the original bushing mounts (which I am nervous about), which is a hang up point... Here's a pic of how they mount...



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To bring the a frame geometry back to the proper angles, I'm also installing the RTE A frame block...
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  #43  
Old August 6th, 2013, 01:54 AM
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Mark Bichin
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I'm also going one step further and piecing together one of Buck's famous antirock sway bars...not quite sure of how I'm going to mount it yet but isn't that half the fun... Heres a pic of Lanes truck with it installed...



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Stop drooling over the truck and look at the sway bar

From what I understand, this will force my front end to do more of the work... And add to the stability that lifted defenders tend to lack .... Tippy tippy tippy...
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  #44  
Old August 6th, 2013, 02:11 AM
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Mark Bichin
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Front:

Springs are linear 3" SG fully retained.

Okay, I thought about setting up a proper three link but I need something left over to play with later...

I'm going with 3 deg castor corrected radius arms... Pretty standard for lifts... I believe it's a safari gard product as well but I'm not sure... What is different about these though is that they are wristed...



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Not sure if this was a safari gard thing or someone had it done but they look very well put together...

I have heard good and bad things re writing radius arms... Someone I trust swears by them though so ill give it a whirl. If they are too sketchy, I can always put the pin back in.

Following a theme, I had copy's of the SG long travel front shock hoops made up by the same fabricator... They move the shock outside the coil which keeps the top of the shock front getting crunched at full travel during extreme articulation... As extreme as the standard radius arm front end can get anyway...

They look like this...



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I asked a friend that runs these in his truck how much cutting he had to do to get these to fit...

He said a little but a lot less than he had to do to fit the 37s lol...

Panhard rod gets replaced with the RTE version.



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Pretty ain't it...
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  #45  
Old August 6th, 2013, 02:39 AM
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Mark Bichin
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Okay we are almost up to date here... I'm still waiting to get my lift installed... My truck has been at the shop for one week and they haven't touched it... If they don't start on it tomorrow, I will take it somewhere else...

One last thing for now...

STEERING:

Okay the defender shares almost all the same suspension features as the disco's but for some reason they gave them a better steering system... Hold on.. I know that their placement of the steering stabilizer leaves a lot to be desired but a simple kit and you place it where the defenders do...

I'm talking about the pitman arm/steering ball combo on a defender... It hard enough to fix that puppy in a garage (just read the tech section to hear the complaints), but they are susceptible to being knocked out of commission in the bush... And let me tell you from experience, it sucks when you steering goes when your fifty miles into the bush...

Much easier to replace a tie rod... And you can get HD tie rods... Tie rods are cheap and easy to carry as a spare... So I'm converting over to disco steering with a disco pitman arm and disco steering gear from RTE... I also picked up a SG steering stabilizer relocation kit... Any brand would do but I'm on a role here :p
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  #46  
Old August 6th, 2013, 01:30 PM
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Mark Bichin
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I just called the shop and they have started! Yay
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  #47  
Old August 7th, 2013, 07:58 AM
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Brian Kandefer
1957 107 wagon, 94 arles St, 101 FC
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Awesome, are you going to keep the 33's or are you going to 35's?
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  #48  
Old August 7th, 2013, 11:05 AM
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Mark Bichin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewie212 View Post
Awesome, are you going to keep the 33's or are you going to 35's?
I'm going to stick with the 33s for now unless a deal comes up for some 35s... I would love a set of walker evan rims but someone sold them before I was in the market :p
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  #49  
Old August 7th, 2013, 07:48 PM
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Mark Bichin
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Okay so I was at the shop today and took some pics...



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I was using my phone so my apologies for the quality of these...

Above is a pic of the A frame extension mounted...




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Here's a pic of the rear shock mount installed...



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Drivers side front shock hoop... You can see the cutting they did to get it in... I think it's a little excessive but I didn't install them... I plan to put some sort of covering between the sides of the hoop to limit the dirt exposure to the engine compartment but that's later...

By the way the chain is just to keep the axle from dropping all the way... I'm waiting for my retainers to come in and I have cones in the front now...




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Hard to see because of the sun but the chain is attached to the bottom shock mount....
You can just see in the upper left the conversion of the stock pitman/ball to the disco pitman arm and tie rod
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  #50  
Old August 7th, 2013, 07:54 PM
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Mark Bichin
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Passengers side shock hoop...




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Green is the color of landrover and GBR!
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  #51  
Old August 7th, 2013, 08:23 PM
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Brian Kandefer
1957 107 wagon, 94 arles St, 101 FC
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Looking good!
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  #52  
Old August 10th, 2013, 02:32 AM
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Mark Bichin
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Okay got my truck back today...

A few things didn't work out or just didn't happen...

They didn't install the A arm extension due to it rubbing against the gas tank... Turns out its probably the wrong one... I'm going to get the proper block...if you want to know more about how I came to this conclusion and the joy I had arriving there... Do a search... There is a thread just for that part of the puzzle...

Steering stabilizer never got put on... The kit I had was stem to stem and there are not a lot of options in those style of stabilizers around here... Im going to convert it to loop to loop with similar adapters used on other shocks and install it later...

They couldn't figure out where to mount the antirock swaybar... I will leave that for another project... I want to tune up what I have first...

I have a set of EE spring retainers coming in.... In going to use the bottoms on the rear springs and the tops on my front springs and get rid of my cones in front... I will have to figure out how to get them to work in the front in conjunction with the shock hoops but it shouldn't be too hard...

I still need to figure out the measurements for my shocks...

------ Follow up post added August 9th, 2013 11:35 PM ------

These re the measurements that the shop gave me...

Front Shock:
Extended: 28.5”
Compressed: 14.5”
Distance between bump stop: 2.75”
Distance between tire to fender well @ ride height 10.5”
Distance between tire to fender well @ comressed height 6”
Shocks @ ride height 19.5” free standing

Rear Shock:
Extended: 29.5”
Compressed: 16.5”
Distance between bump stop: 4”
Distance between tire to fender well @ ride height 8.5”
Distance between tire to fender well @ comressed height 2.5”
Shocks @ ride height 22.5” free standing

I don't think they look right... I'm pretty sure with my setup, I should be able to use longer shocks than this is indicating...

I have a feeling that he didn't want to remove the springs again and guestimated some of this...

When my retainers come in I'm going to pull the springs and check the numbers...
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  #53  
Old August 10th, 2013, 02:43 AM
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Mark Bichin
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This is what my truck looks like now...(quick pics)...



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This is what it looked like before...



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  #54  
Old August 10th, 2013, 02:55 AM
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Mark Bichin
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I'm not sure if my rear is level with my front...I may put some spacers in... I want to run 35s eventually, so I will be taking that into account when I figure out my final config... Im not sure if I have enough height to run them now...

These springs are soft! I barely feel bumps at all...the whole body sways when doing a corner... Mind you I'm not running a swaybar anymore either...

I think that the fact that its a SW, the lock and folds, tire carrier and roof rack may be causing the ass end to drag a bit... I will find out when I do some measuring later...

I've got some cheap BDS shocks in there until I figure out a-arm blocks and spacers so I can take more measurements and get the revalved fox shocks..
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  #55  
Old August 10th, 2013, 11:04 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Looking good - like you said the rear is a little low but with all the changes you did there will be some fine tuning needed.

Sorry about loosing the tracking number on the retainers - that was a dipshit move on my part - hope the package gets to you ok.

BTW - I like the silver Natos and 255's - I think I am going to order those for my blue 110
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  #56  
Old August 10th, 2013, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Looking good - like you said the rear is a little low but with all the changes you did there will be some fine tuning needed.

Sorry about loosing the tracking number on the retainers - that was a dipshit move on my part - hope the package gets to you ok.

BTW - I like the silver Natos and 255's - I think I am going to order those for my blue 110
The 255s are a good tire size for the d90 but I've always wanted to run 35s ... Too bad you don't live closer, we could make a deal for my rims and tires... Less than 5000 miles on them...

Don't worry about the tracking.. It will all work out...
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  #57  
Old August 10th, 2013, 01:59 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcadeus View Post
The 255s are a good tire size for the d90 but I've always wanted to run 35s ... Too bad you don't live closer, we could make a deal for my rims and tires... Less than 5000 miles on them...

Don't worry about the tracking.. It will all work out...
35's are nice - I have a set of 315 MTR/K's that I will put back on when I do the rebuild and have the Toyota axles installed. They also give a bit more axle clearance which I found helps. If you've got the gearing and axle strength then I say go for the 35's.

I need new rubber for the next 9-12 months and figured the 255's would be a good size for the current config. Might run them around town and the 35's on trail. Let me know if you have any questions on the 35's - hopefully I can help out.
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  #58  
Old August 10th, 2013, 02:02 PM
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Mark Bichin
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Cool.. Thanks for the offer... I have the new TIBUS front cvs and axles up front and as soon as I pick up the spacers, I will have rovertrack rear axles. I'm running trutracs front and rear with 4.75s so gearing isn't a problem I still need a set of front HD drive flanges but I will get those next time I grab something from Justin.

What are you running for a lift?
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  #59  
Old August 10th, 2013, 02:49 PM
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Don Bunnell
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I had a 2" OME on the 90 and it worked well. I just had to trim the flares and add taller bumpstops.

On the blue truck I am going to run the stock 110 springs in back and the front OME springs to see how it sits. Right now the truck's ass is high due to hardly any weight back there.

I am going to start a build thread for it hopefully this week.
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  #60  
Old August 10th, 2013, 02:51 PM
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Cool.. I look forward to seeing it!
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