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  #21  
Old July 29th, 2013, 10:11 AM
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KKilo23
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Kenny
NAS SW l NAS ST l 110 SW | 110 Crew
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Nice... post some pics of the new suspension set up.
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  #22  
Old July 29th, 2013, 03:34 PM
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Mark Bichin
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i will see if i can take some pics tonight... if not then its not going to happen... im writing this in retrospect... im tearing this suspension out tomorrow and replacing it... i will get there eventually lol....
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  #23  
Old July 29th, 2013, 03:36 PM
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Kenny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcadeus View Post
i will see if i can take some pics tonight... if not then its not going to happen... im writing this in retrospect... im tearing this suspension out tomorrow and replacing it... i will get there eventually lol....
What are you replacing it with?

Didn't you just go through all that couple posts above?
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  #24  
Old July 29th, 2013, 03:47 PM
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Mark Bichin
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When they hand you the keys to your defender, they should hand you a bucket with it because as every defender owner knows they leak... wether its oil, antifreeze or water... it leaks...

Mine, as i found out on the first rainy day (and living in Vancouver, we have lots of them), leaked water in several places into the cab...

i would open my door in the morning and the rubber mats would be half filled with water.... my morining routine would be to spill them all out and replace them...

then i would get in and start driving only to have about half a cup of water pour out of the space above the door between the headliner and the roof... usually right onto my knee...

my seatbelt retainer would also get dripped upon on the drivers side so when i put the belt on the portion along my shoulder would be soaked.

the rear driverside corner would also drip, right onto my speaker crossover...
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  #25  
Old July 29th, 2013, 07:01 PM
kellykortman
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kelly kortman
1994 land rover defender
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I used to think I had maybe the nicest one out there, I now know that I do not. You in fact do. Really nice rig. I really like your new center console, Where did you find that? Mine remains a never ending work in progress but I started my rehab project in the summer of '07 and every year I pop about another 5k into it so sadly, the stuff I did in 2007 is already 6 years old! My guess is if you ever sell this (I suggest you don't unless your kids turn out to not deserve such an inheritance) it's going to end up being picked up by a movie star or athlete or some upper crust dude with a passion for these vehicles who doesn't want to spend 5 seconds doing any upgrades at all. Super nice rig!
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  #26  
Old July 29th, 2013, 07:44 PM
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Arcadeus
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Mark Bichin
97 NAS Station Wagon LE
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Each defender has its own history and personality... some are pretty some not so pretty...some tough, some rarely leave the garage... its what you want it for that counts... i looked at your registry and your truck is spectacular... what i wouldnt have done to own one brand new from the dealership... you know everything about it.... besides by the time im finsihed hacking this one up... well we will see....

------ Follow up post added July 29th, 2013 04:47 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by KKilo23 View Post
What are you replacing it with?

Didn't you just go through all that couple posts above?
patience my friend, patience....

what kind of story would this be if i gave you all the good parts without the crap in between... lol...

besides... i want to share my fustration... its cathartic.... this write up is as much for me as it is for you...
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  #27  
Old July 29th, 2013, 10:20 PM
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Mark Bichin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellykortman View Post
I really like your new center console, Where did you find that?
That what the stock automatic consoles look like... Originals are Nla but you can get replicas (expensive), I think Ashcroft sells them.

I always wondered if anyone managed to use a 5sp with one?
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  #28  
Old July 29th, 2013, 10:37 PM
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Mark Bichin
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So I took a look at my doors first... My door seals were squished both in the same place. Hinge side where the door transitions into the window frame. If you have a HT you know that for some reason the roof gutters drain their water in the front, right about that point almost directly onto the door seal... Prime engineering!

My hinge pins were also gone, leaving a nice trail of rust... And more importantly play in the doors... worse in the drivers side than the passengers but if you are going there...If you have the old style hinges, you know what I mean... Or you will.

Running a hose on my windshield resulted in a little waterfall behind my dash inside the cab.


My divers side door also had issues closing properly... Sometimes you could get it to close by slamming the door but other times it could take ten minutes of playing with it to work...

Taking a close look at the door strikers, I noticed that the little round bearing was missing from the drivers side...

New vent gaskets, door seals, strikers and hinges...
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  #29  
Old July 29th, 2013, 10:51 PM
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Mark Bichin
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Regarding the hinges:

There are several options out there...

Go for the originals?... Been there done that...

There are aluminum hinges out there.. Don't rust! However a little more research led me to discover that the majority of these are produced by Brit part... I've been told that if it does anything other than just sit there, don't use Britpart.

There are some super high end hinges out there including stainless ones but they are large $$$$$ including a set made by cryotech (sp?) that will run close to six hundred dollars by the time you are done (for two doors ).

I ended up going with the TD5 style hinges... Roversnorth had a great deal on a package with all new fasteners and gaskets... Make sure you use those gaskets... Steel on aluminum sucks for galvanic corrosion... These hinges have bushings installed on either side of the pin which keeps them from rusting out and they are a direct replacement for the old ones... ST owners may have to trim the upper hinge at the window...
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  #30  
Old July 31st, 2013, 01:48 AM
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Mark Bichin
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The initial application of the stock vent seal resulted in a mere trickle with the hose test.... I've tried it once more... If it fails again I'm going to do what I should have done at first... Use the Slll seals... More work but they actually work from what I hear...
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  #31  
Old July 31st, 2013, 01:58 AM
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Mark Bichin
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I replaced both door gaskets and hinges now... New strikers... When I went to put on my strikers I noticed that the striker screws were all stripped... Looked like the po had this same problem before... Further inspection found that the nut plate for the striker had been Mickey moused... Someone spot welded two nuts on a thin plate.. It had lots of room to shift around... Also for some reason the drivers side striker had four plus shims and the passenger side door only two...

New nut plate and bolts courtesy of John cradock again...

The door stays shut now but for some reason I can't get it to sit with the body line... It sticks out a little instead of staying flush... When I try to move the striker in a little, the door won't shut anymore and it almost seems to be catching on the edge of the striker... Almost like its too small for the opening...

I've heard people say something about adjusting the bulkhead in or shimming it or something but that sounds like you have to take half the truck apart or something... Anyway I'm not prepared to do that at this point without a guiding hand... So my door doesn't quite sit flush... But it closes and they don't leak...
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  #32  
Old July 31st, 2013, 02:12 AM
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Mark Bichin
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My roof still leaks though... I think that the rest of the cab leaks re from the leak on the drivers side somewhere in the roof where water is getting into the top channel and moving around...

Ever see the defender water ingress manual?

If you have a leak, you should have a copy... Free on the web...

It told me that sometimes cracks in the gutters can cause water to seep into that channel... Something about the way the metal is folded in making the roof and gutters... There is a pretty picture in the manual.

Checking out my roof and gutters... Lo and behold... My gutters are full of cracks...

So I hopped onto a stepladder with a paintable sealant (rubbery type stuff).... Cleaned the gutters with final wipe ... And proceeded to make a huge mess... I got the crap all over the roof rack, roll cage, myself, rubber trim etc... I'm still cleaning the stuff off... I haven't seen if this will solve the problem because it hasn't rained here in the last few weeks ( I know... It really is Vancouver)... I only did the drivers side but the passengers side is full of cracks too but not leaking...

Next time I'm going to spend the time and tape the area off... It will save me a lot of time in the end... I'm starting to wonder about a new roof lol...
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  #33  
Old July 31st, 2013, 02:40 PM
kellykortman
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1994 land rover defender
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any thought of going to the Portland all British field meet with this thing? I'm thinking about bringing mine this year. I'm about to get the arb bull bar and a recovery winch and I'm pondering getting the pop up tent for the top. That and one big all up polish and armor all and my rig should do Ok there. Maybe I can get a prize in one of the lower categories or a 'participation' medal.
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  #34  
Old August 3rd, 2013, 01:36 PM
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Mark Bichin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellykortman View Post
any thought of going to the Portland all British field meet with this thing? I'm thinking about bringing mine this year. I'm about to get the arb bull bar and a recovery winch and I'm pondering getting the pop up tent for the top. That and one big all up polish and armor all and my rig should do Ok there. Maybe I can get a prize in one of the lower categories or a 'participation' medal.
I don't think I'm going to make it out there this year... See the reason below
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  #35  
Old August 3rd, 2013, 01:49 PM
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Mark Bichin
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So I bought a set of thirds from a board member... Front and rear trutracs with GBR 4.75s...

Here is my thinking...

Trutracs: I use this rig mostly as a DD. I wanted something that I could put in and not have to find a place to stick a compressor or do more wiring... I.e. simple setup. I liked the fact that with trutracs they engaged themselves when needed. I know detroits do the same thing but I didn't want to go full locker as I would be using it more on the street and full lockers tend to push and slide. I knew that the trutracs ultimately were not going to be the same as a full locker offroad but they are 80% there and way better than an open diff. The trutracs also replace the stock carrier which is one of the weakest points on a landrover drivetrain...
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  #36  
Old August 3rd, 2013, 05:03 PM
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Mark Bichin
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4.75 Gears: I know pretty extreme but they were already installed. Normally with 33-35 tires you would want to go with something around 4:10s. I talked with Bill from Great Basin Rovers about this. He is one of the foremost experts in drivetrains for Rovers. He told me that the 4.75s were low but since I have an auto, not a manual, I wouldn't be shifting through the gears myself (this could get annoying) and since I don't do a lot of highway driving, he suggested that I try the gears out.. I could always replace it later.

I figured that I would give it a try.
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  #37  
Old August 3rd, 2013, 05:31 PM
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Mark Bichin
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Since I was switching out my diffs, I figured I would do some other "needed" upgrades at the same time...

Front and rear HD DC driveshafts from GBR

Front HD cvs/ axles made by TIBUS. These are the ones that Keith from rovertracks had a hand in and are being called the Rovertacks 2.0. I bought these from Justin at lucky8 ( he is having an introductory special on these right now)

A set of used rear HD axles from rovertracks.

All these parts are much easier to replace or are removed when doing diff changes, I thought I would save on labour by doing it at the same time.
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  #38  
Old August 3rd, 2013, 06:13 PM
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Mark Bichin
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I brought all the parts into the diff shop that was suggested to me ( IWE rear ends only - they work on race cars and 4x4s )... And I scheduled a time to bring he truck in... The plan was that they inspect the diffs and when I brought my truck in, install them along with everything else...

So I get a phone call from them... The front diff looks good but they don't like the contact pattern on the rear and they want to take it apart to set it up properly... Okay I would rather be preemptive so I say go ahead... These were originally set up by GBR and I believe they were rechecked when pulled off... But these guys are supposed to know what they are doing...

When the rear is pulled apart, they phoned me to say that the bearings need to be replaced... Okay.. Replace them ( they use timken bearings)...
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  #39  
Old August 3rd, 2013, 11:49 PM
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Mark Bichin
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I take my truck in and half way through the day I get a phone call... They are having trouble setting up the rear... He's not getting it to where he likes it... Something about him thinking there was more adjustment than there was??? ( I thought they were going to do that in advance) and so they are going to get it the best they can... Also the rear shafts won't fit all the way in... And one of them has a very (barely noticeable twist in the splines)...

The fact that they knew that the rear shafts won't fit all the way tells me that they had already installed the rear diff before talking to me about the problem...

I get my truck back and drive it around for a couple of days....
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  #40  
Old August 4th, 2013, 12:04 AM
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Mark Bichin
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I notice two thing right off he bat... There is a definite vibration felt through the steering wheel at the "new" 50 mph... The rear end is making gear noise when driving...

As far as he new gearing goes, it's great! It's got way more oomph and actually runs at a LOWER rpm at speeds I zoom around in town... The autobox/ 1.22 LT230/ 4.75 gears/ 33" tires are a great combo... On the hwy I have a lot more pedal power to pass when I need it I.e. more responsive... As for hwy rpm, since I haven't adjusted my speedo, I don't really know what speed I'm traveling at but according to the Ashcroft ratio calculator, I should be at around 2700-2800 rpm at 65 mph... Which is plenty fast for this pig... I plan to goto 35s eventually which will give me a similar rpm at 70mph...

So all is good but for the rear end / axles.


Rear axles: I post in a couple of places regarding my rear rovertrack axle problem and I find out that I may need spacer rings to make things right... So I emailed Keith formerly of rovertracks to get specs on the rings... Turns out the gods have smiled on me and he has a single set left over.. They are on their way...
As for the very slight twist in the splines, I'm going to give it a try and see how it works out... Ashcroft claims that their axles can twist 8000 degrees during testing and these are supposed to be better so I'm willing to give it a go.
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