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  #21  
Old October 7th, 2004, 12:03 PM
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If you drive no slower than 35mph at all times, you'll never need a fan--tons of room for the intercooler. Just drive fast. Problem fixed!

Oh, and never drive up hill.
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  #22  
Old October 7th, 2004, 02:32 PM
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150 bhp is good, generally reckoned to be the tops for a long lived engine.
I'd be very interested in the intercooler details when you get it sorted
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  #23  
Old October 7th, 2004, 05:40 PM
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David, Allard does a 2 part intercooler for use with AC. This sounds like what you need, to not interfere with your winch. It uses the stock postition, and another intercooler in the engine bay. It is the same price as the big intercooler, which I have. Don't remember what it cost, seems like $400-$450 maybe.

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  #24  
Old October 7th, 2004, 07:48 PM
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Yeah, I should just avoid hills! And a correction, the exause is 3 in I have seen the Allard one but never at $450. Do you mean 450 pounds?? I have seen that one but that makes somewhere near $750 plus shipping. The one I am looking at with 850 CFM so far seems like the best option for the price. But I am still looking and waiting untill the winch is in place. I would hate to measure and then have the thing not fit! I will look at allard again. With a 1.2 case and the intercooler I think I can cruise around all day.

edit: The Allard option is $385 pounds which turns into $684 + shipping. Ouch. Plus, it goes under the radiator which worries me. This other option might be a good one. i will post up when I find out if it is better. The problem with the UK models is they are just too thin and don't provide a huge increase in cooling.
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  #25  
Old October 10th, 2004, 01:52 PM
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Gave my fuel pump a good tweaking today. Wow what a difference, didn't get too silly just about half the amount of turns suggested in the LRE article, It chucks out some smoke acceleration with the throtle floored but nothing much when cruising
I'll be looking at the intercooler options more seriously myself now
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  #26  
Old October 10th, 2004, 05:44 PM
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can any of you tdi guys do a write up on how to tune the fuel pump for more power? I have no Idea what to adjust or how to do it. I don't want to blow anything up on the new motor.


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  #27  
Old October 10th, 2004, 07:03 PM
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Yes please, I'd like to know about this too.
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  #28  
Old October 10th, 2004, 10:21 PM
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I can put up a good writeup of it. Bidding starts at $5, do I hear $10?
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  #29  
Old October 11th, 2004, 07:51 AM
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It's on the LR Enthusiast forum. A 20 page posting on how to and results people experienced from each part of the tune. I've only messed with the smoke screw, or what seems to be called the power screw. Giving more power and slightly more smoke across all gears.
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  #30  
Old October 11th, 2004, 06:04 PM
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There's a good article in this months Landrover Enthusiast Magazine. I followed it step by step- the trickiest thing was undoing the 4 screws that hold the top cover of the pump on.

Follow-up Post:

Had I known that there was this much interest I'd have taken some photos of the bits that need tweaking.
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  #31  
Old October 11th, 2004, 08:43 PM
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Read This
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  #32  
Old October 13th, 2004, 05:57 AM
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Yep, that about explains it. The LRE article says the same in about 3 pages. I printed the whole thing off - 68 pages.

Follow-up Post:

I'll definately do some photos of the innards of the pump, it's much easier to follow when either the pumps in bits or there's some pictures to look at.
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  #33  
Old October 13th, 2004, 07:57 AM
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It's better if it's someone else's pump in bits if you're a bit cautious over the whole thing.
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  #34  
Old October 13th, 2004, 08:13 AM
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Mike what month was the article in LRE? That posting is too long...lol. Is ther eany simplified version? Sorry for hijacking the post David..
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  #35  
Old October 13th, 2004, 09:22 AM
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This post has taken on a life all it's own. Excellent motor Dave.
Please feel free to add any fueling comments

The article is in the current month's issue. they're doing a "we love Tdi's feature"
Here's what I did to my pump following that article:

DISCLAIMER: I DIDN'T MAKE YOU DO ANYTHING TO YOUR ENGINE. YOU MESS WITH THE FUEL INJECTION AT YOUR OWN RISK AND IF THE ENGINE BLOWS UP IT WASN'T ME!
All my tweaking was pretty conservative, you can give every thing more turns, you'll get some more power, make more smoke and the exhaust gas temperature will sky rocket at full power (that's a very bad thing.)
The first thing is remove the top cover and small pipe connected to the top cover by the banjo union.
In the middle of the top cover is a small round metal blanking plug lever it out with a small screw driver. Back off the 13mm lock nut and turn the torx screw (T25 I think) in one turn, retighten the lock not.
See top cover photo
Under the top cover it looks like this (Top cover off pic)
Mark the position of the diaphram scribe a line pointing at one of the screw holes or something and then remove it.(diaphram Pic)
Underneath you'll find the star wheel again mark it's position before you mess with it (Star Wheel Pic)
Rotate the star wheel clockwise I gave it 6 clicks clockwise further will give more power and smoke.
Carefully replace the diaphram but turn it clock wise from it's origional position (you did mark it didn't you and not with something that will rub off).
120 degrees will give the max fuel & power (& smoke), I settled for 45 degrees clockwise turn.
Then there is the max power screw at the back of the pump. the screw is covered with anti tamper devices. It's a real pain to get at. I managed to coax a couple of turns in before the anti tamper stuff prevented it turning any further. If you're dedicated you can grind the anti tamper stuff off with a dremel hobby grinder
( NO A 9" Petrol grinder won't do)
I also tweaked the turbo boost too, by one and a half turns on the adjuster for the turbo waste gate. remove the small clip and loosen the 10mm locknut slide the arm off the pin wind in the rod (the further in the later the waste gate opens and the more boost you get)
200 Tdi's run at 8 -9 lbs boost, 300 Tdi's run at 15 psi boost and it's reckoned not to be a good thing to exceed 15psi on either engine - 300Tdi engine owners needn't mess with the boost.
There was a noticable difference having done this to my engine. I could generally be 1 gear higher in most situations on the road and the low speed torque was better. I've yet to see what's happened to the fuel consumption and I'm wondering if it will pull a 1.22:1 transfer box that i just happen to have in the garage
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  #36  
Old October 13th, 2004, 10:56 AM
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I've only done the smoke screw thus far. I removed the anti tamper collar with a flat head and some levering inside. I initially ran it to one turn, then two turns. I found two full turns was too much and backed it off a half turn. I get some initial smoke on startup, but after that, no smoke at all during driving. I like to think it just scatters gawkers from the truck when I start it up

Haven't had the chance to do the rest of the tweaks as my AC compressor prevents me from getting access to the last of the four screws on the pump. But I do plan to do some very moderate tweak to it. Nothing crazy. Just need to find the time to pull the compressor back off.

Mike's info should get archived. He's basically summarized a 20 page + post from LR Enthusiast and added very good pics.
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  #37  
Old October 13th, 2004, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmarchand
Mike's info should get archived. He's basically summarized a 20 page + post from LR Enthusiast and added very good pics.
It has been marked!
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  #38  
Old October 13th, 2004, 11:53 AM
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Cool Mike that is great thanks.
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  #39  
Old October 13th, 2004, 03:52 PM
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Fame and er... fortune and everything that goes with it....

Thanks guys.

Now I'm The one with the too small, low flow rate intercooler too.
I'll add a pic of the turbo tweak in a mo....

Follow-up Post:

Shortening the rod(arrowed) increases the boost pressure. NOT for 300Tdi engines as they already run at 15 psi and that's apparently enough.
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  #40  
Old October 14th, 2004, 01:12 AM
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300 TDi can hit 19 without problems, just have to be good on the EGT's. BTW: anyone who does anything like this NEEDS to get an egt guage, period.
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