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  #121  
Old September 25th, 2016, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
defenders are in the rear. Designa was going to weld on the plate for the p38 box ?
Supposed to. Circled the option on my form and paid 80 pound for it

Not the end of the world, I can fab up. But I'm gonna have to guess a little on exact location
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1967 Series IIa 109 5 Door - Work in progress
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  #122  
Old October 10th, 2016, 12:03 PM
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Spoke with Ian. Mis understanding on my part. It was set up for a 90 box. I'll be retrofitting the p38 box looks like

Will leave more room for plumbing and a stronger box anyways. Just need to mod a few things to make work. Doesn't look too difficult
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  #123  
Old January 15th, 2017, 02:13 PM
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Well its been way to long since I've made any progress on this... but finally got some items on the list crossed off

I installed my power steering box and lower link off a RRC, which went it very easily.
The steering tub required some fabrication, mainly a lower bracket to hold a bearing, lengthening the steering shaft with a weld on piece (3/4-48 spline end). I felt like everything on this wanted to fight me for stupid reasons, but in the end I'm happy with the result. Also made a gasket for the steering column out of some soft 3/16" rubber.

I had the last bits of my suspension line-xed once i knew they would work. Put in new poly-bushes as well and got those put in.

Next up is getting the power steering pump mounted into the engine and lines ran to the box. Then i think i have to tackle the rear tub/battery box etc so i can start wiring. That should only take me into 2018 at this rate.
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  #124  
Old January 15th, 2017, 02:14 PM
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more pics...

edit - all rotaed 90 degress off and i dont have the patience to flip em right now lol
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  #125  
Old January 15th, 2017, 02:30 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Nice, although I"m personally not a fan of the rough surface on those suspension parts - will trap dirt.

Can you share the part # on the bearing you used? I went and did something very stupid on mine and used a linear bearing and didn't realize it until it was all done (and bracket galvied!)
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  #126  
Old January 15th, 2017, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Nice, although I"m personally not a fan of the rough surface on those suspension parts - will trap dirt. Can you share the part # on the bearing you used? I went and did something very stupid on mine and used a linear bearing and didn't realize it until it was all done (and bracket galvied!)
McMaster Carr 6494K42

It's not perfect though. The body of the bearing carrier is larger than the bolt pattern of the column flange, so you have to have just the right size bolts to connect the flange without pushing out on the bearing on the other side. Also the material needs to be thick enough to tap so you don't need a nut on the other side of the flange. (I used 5/16 steel plate)I couldn't find any bearing


As for the line x. I had them use the premium finish which is shiny and almost like a pvc coating. While it's still textured it's not nearly as gritty as some cheaper rattle can bed liners. I think dirt will easily come off with not much more than a hose. My main concern was durability and ability to keep things from rusting. I don't think there is s better product out there. Paint, powder coat or otherwise.
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  #127  
Old April 8th, 2017, 09:48 PM
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So been a bit but starting to get some things done

Brake lines all plumbed back to the master cylinder. what a PITA it is to get Stainless lines to seat correctly. I cant belive how hard i had to tighten those tube nuts and cant believe none stripped.

I check a few electrical items (diff lock switch, brake light switch, and Reverse light switch. All worked except the reverse light so i replaced that and good to go.

Put in Diff fluid front and rear, swivel ball grease, engine oil, tranny fluid, and transfer case oil. I figured let me do it now so i dont ever forget. Stuff wont go bad sitting in there.

Bled the brake lines too and are good to go on that.

------ Follow up post added April 8th, 2017 10:50 PM ------

Now im on to the wiring.... and have questions.


Every diagram i see shows the alternator going directly to the starter solenoid.... but where? I see room for three connections on my starter solenoid.

1. Short copper braided piece that goes to the starter.
2. Large wire that goes direct to batter,
3. Small wire for ignition "start" signal.

Am I missing something? is there another post i just cant see to accept the large brown wire from the alternator?


EDIT: May have figured it out... i think it goes onto the same post as the + battery cable.
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  #128  
Old April 9th, 2017, 10:09 AM
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It goes to the battery connection on the starter. Believe it or not, that is how the battery charges.

Love the progress, keep it up!
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  #129  
Old April 9th, 2017, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Factoid View Post
It goes to the battery connection on the starter. Believe it or not, that is how the battery charges. Love the progress, keep it up!
Yup makes sense. No need to run another cable all the way to the battery when that gives you a shortcut.

Progress is painfully slow in my eyes. But hey that just means I don't need any more projects for awhile!
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  #130  
Old April 22nd, 2017, 08:34 PM
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Well i've been some how finding time to turn some wrenches on this thing... and have a few updates

1. Got all the brake lines/master cylinder sorted. I will never use stainless brake lines again. What a pain in the ass it was to get these things to seat. I was meticulous about the flares and thought they looked damn good, but i must have had to tighted and loosen and retighten the majority of connections about 50 times before they finally we sealed. The biggest culprit being the rear hard to soft line connection. However, i finally got them all sealed, bled, and have great pedal pressure/action. I cant beleive i didnt strip a tube nut with the amount of torque i put on some of these things, but everything i read said with stainless you gotta really crank down on them.

2. I started wiring some things up, Stop/Run solenoid, oil pressure, alternator, coolant temp sender, reverse switch. Only to very quickly realize i had no where to run the wires to. So that made me drop the wiring and focus on the rear tub so i can get the battery box in and do all my wiring in there.

3. 3 drill bits later and one or two sanding disc's i got the rear tub all apart. The floor is out and will be completely replace with new front to back load bars. The cross members are out, and will be Hot dipped galvanized. The rest of the tub is in surprisingly good shape, so i hope to clean it up, sand it, and get it painted.
UNforunately, there is some serious stoneguard/underbody coating on this tub. The steel cross members are no problem. Hit them with a torch and an old chisel, and scrape most of it off, then finish it with a flap disc. You can see the progression between two pcs in the pics on the following post. I wasnt even going to bother doing this since they will be dipped in hot acid prior to galvanizing and that should take everything off, but figured cant hurt. HOWEVER - i dont know what to do about the aluminum tub that has it on there. I cant be aggresive with heat or anything as i'll warp the Aluminum. I dont think chemicals are going to do much and a power washer was minimally effective on the cross bars, so i doubt it will do much here. Any suggestions? I'd like to have this down to bare metal to have it painted top and bottom.
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  #131  
Old April 23rd, 2017, 09:22 AM
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The brake lines look nice and clean.

I would think some heat would soften that up to the point where you could scrape it off the aluminum, without damaging it.
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  #132  
Old April 23rd, 2017, 11:20 AM
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Takes way more heat than will burn or melt off the monkey dung to warp or damage the aluminum floor. A heat gun and patience work best followed by plenty of mineral spirits. Acid dip will not be effective on the undercoating. Once you get that done then you can dip or blast.
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  #133  
Old April 23rd, 2017, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Takes way more heat than will burn or melt off the monkey dung to warp or damage the aluminum floor. A heat gun and patience work best followed by plenty of mineral spirits. Acid dip will not be effective on the undercoating. Once you get that done then you can dip or blast.
Ok. So basically elbow grease. Not what I was hoping to hear lol.

Good call on the heat gun vs a torch. Won't be able to damage anything with a heat gun. Will pick up some mineral spirits as well.

------ Follow up post added April 23rd, 2017 01:13 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
The brake lines look nice and clean. I would think some heat would soften that up to the point where you could scrape it off the aluminum, without damaging it.
Thanks. Yes the heat does soften it up. But still sticky as sin to scrape off
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  #134  
Old April 27th, 2017, 10:05 PM
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Well an hour in this is where I'm at. Plenty more to go

Mediocre progress I'd say

I'm going to pick up a heat gun (torch is smokey and I'm scared I'll warp something), also ordered a bottle of Eastwood undergone.

Getting 95% of it is not the issue. It's the last 5 I'm worried about

Need to get this down to bare metal so I can coat with raptor liner
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  #135  
Old April 28th, 2017, 01:51 PM
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Looks fantastic. Glad to see that I'm not the only one going on 2 years on a long build dealing with a new kid and honey-dos. I had some luck getting weird stuff off of mine with aircraft remover. Not sure how well it would work on the undercoating.
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