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  #101  
Old May 22nd, 2016, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Sorta hard to see but I think that is the vacuum-maker...


.
Got it... so i need it... rats lol.


Im going to cut out and box in a small section of the bulkhead. Shouldn't be too hard and I have some cold galvanizing spray to touch it up when done.
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1967 Series IIa 109 5 Door - Work in progress
'98 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series
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  #102  
Old May 28th, 2016, 09:23 PM
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So some minor updates. I got the engine in position, and with a visit from Don we determined the footwell needed to be altered a bit to accommodate the vacuum pump. A few cuts and some bending and we got plenty of clearance and a decent looking footwell still. I will clean it up and weld it together before final assembly.

More amazingly the turbo seems to fit without issue with enough room for both the pre and post boost hoses and elbows. The steering linkage may be another nightmare.

My next goal is to run the brake and fuel lines... which will also require me to put the pedal towers and assemblies back together and in. A few questions:

1. Is there any reason why i shouldn't mount the fuel filter assembly along the frame rail under the truck instead of on the bulkhead. Im sure i will be pressed for space under the hood and I think this may free some room up for other items. Obviously the main concern would be damage on a trail but this truck isn't going to see any major trail use and even so it would be protected by the frame rail, i could even fab up a bracket to further protect it.
1a. Also just to make sure I'm not loosing my sh*t, the order for routing fuel lines is fuel tank, lift pump, fuel filter, injection pump correct? for some reason i thought the filter was before the lift pump but the way this came would suggest otherwise.

2. I haven't decided what to do with my brake system yet. Im running all Disco 1 calipers. Would a series MC and booster be sufficient or should i stick with a Disco 1 MC/booster? Im not sure if the Disco booster is the same size and if it would fit in the body work. My third option was just go aftermarket with willwood units from Jegs or summit. This is also appealing b/c they would be Double flare fittings and Im trying to convert everything over to double flare from bubble flare as DF fittings are much more readily available. Im also planning on running all Stainless lines, hopefully flaring them won't be too hard.

Anyways - heres some pics. My very ambitious and unrealistic goal is to have the drivetrain in before baby #2 comes in September and maybe even fire up the engine for a test.
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  #103  
Old May 28th, 2016, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Um, until you have the transmission and transfer case bolted up you better not make any solid plans
Bill i've been referencing your thread a lot for this build. Did you have trouble bolting yours up?

Im trying to figure out the mounting for both of those. My kit came with a disco 1 cross member but i don't really see how its going to work. Do you have any pictures of your transmission TC bolted up into the frame?
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  #104  
Old June 19th, 2016, 08:10 PM
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Couple updates. Had some help yesterday and got the new rear main seal, machined flywheel, clutch, trans and transfer case in. Also got the rear brake line in and the brake assembly

MC is off a 83-87 crown Vic with a few minor tweaks and looks like it will be more than sufficient for the job. The disco one I ordered won't work so if anyone needs a brand new stc441 I have one


I was very happy with the flare we put on the stainless line. I was worried it would be too difficult to flare with my flaring kit
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  #105  
Old June 19th, 2016, 08:12 PM
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Had to put a 1/8 spacer between the booster and MC. also made my own trans mount plates out of the supplied disco crossmember that doesn't work.
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  #106  
Old June 19th, 2016, 08:14 PM
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let's hope the brake assembly clears the wing! (It should)
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  #107  
Old June 19th, 2016, 08:35 PM
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Looks good, tell me more about the Master Cylinder setup.


That's a Series Servo, right? Did you have any distance problems from the pushrod on the Servo to the inner seat on the Ford MC?

I hate the aftermarket Series MC available, they suck and seem to only last a couple of years at best………….sometimes it takes me two or three just to get one that works. Genuine is stupid @ $600, so I'd love to find a decent option.
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  #108  
Old June 19th, 2016, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Contractor View Post
Looks good, tell me more about the Master Cylinder setup. That's a Series Servo, right? Did you have any distance problems from the pushrod on the Servo to the inner seat on the Ford MC? I hate the aftermarket Series MC available, they suck and seem to only last a couple of years at best………….sometimes it takes me two or three just to get one that works. Genuine is stupid @ $600, so I'd love to find a decent option.
Yes. It's a series booster, stc1816. Certainly not the most powerful but should be fine, has the right bolt pattern for my 2a tower and will clear the wing. If I have to push a little harder on the fat pedal to stop it so be it.

The MC is for a 83-87 crown Vic ($40 at Napa and in stock. It needed a 1/8" plate to make up some room between the MC and the servo. Also I had to fill in the inside of the MC Pushrod inner seat for exactly the reason you mentioned....solution, cut a bolt (I think it was 1/2" or 3/8 I forget) to just under and inch long. Drop it in the MC seat before connecting to booster and all set.
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  #109  
Old June 19th, 2016, 08:50 PM
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Cool, I need to replace my MC and would love to find another alternative. I might give that a shot, before I stick on this aftermarket Series MC I have.
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  #110  
Old June 19th, 2016, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Contractor View Post
Cool, I need to replace my MC and would love to find another alternative. I might give that a shot, before I stick on this aftermarket Series MC I have.
You may need different line nuts. I believe they are DOUBLE FLARE. I assume the series is bubble but maybe not

This is Another advantage though. Bubble flares are a pain in the ass to find. Both the fittings and the flaring tool. and I'm converting wherever I can to double flare, for ease of replacement or changing things in the future.
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  #111  
Old June 19th, 2016, 09:01 PM
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Brake fittings easily sourced from fedhillusa.com
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  #112  
Old June 27th, 2016, 05:43 PM
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Most of the plumbing ran. I ended up putting the fuel lines on top of the frame rail due to lack of room to route them both on the side as I wanted to. However looking at the body I think there will be plenty of room to access them in the future if need be. However I don't see any need to service them for a long time

I just need to get a length of 1/4" to go from the filter to the IP input, and a pickup/sender assembly for the tank.
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  #113  
Old June 27th, 2016, 08:35 PM
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nice work Adrian !

serious rover chrome envy
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  #114  
Old June 28th, 2016, 01:07 PM
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Looking great Adrian - I'll have to swing by sometime soon and see the goods in person!
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  #115  
Old June 28th, 2016, 08:12 PM
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Thanks guys!

Don be careful - i'll put you to work!
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  #116  
Old August 15th, 2016, 07:26 PM
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So some baby steps in the right direction. A wife who's 8 months pregnant, new house with a list of to do's that never ends and 100 degree heat doesn't leave much time for the rover.

Got the clutch plumbed and mounted. Seems to work ok for me bleeding it by myself. One hand pumping the other turning the bleeder in a god awful awkward position. Most importantly no leaks

Use a lokar throttle cable and made my own pedal assembly. Seems to work very well. Still have to paint some items, put in the cable hold downs and bolt in the pedal for good but so far so well. I enjoyed making the whole assembly. Made the mounts, the pivot and the lever for the cable to attach to and very happy with the results.
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  #117  
Old September 24th, 2016, 07:54 PM
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Haven't so much as looked at the truck in a month but I got a P38 steering box in and trying to mock it up

Those of you with a Designa coil sprung chassis

Does your chassis have these tabs with two holes on both sides of the spring perch? Got my steering box and I feel like I could bring it closer to the spring perch and farther away from the jate ring hole if they weren't there. I can't imagine they add much integrity based in the surface area of the weld. Only thing I'm thinking is brake lines? But I can run those through the rear set.

Do they server any other purpose I'm not thinking in at this point?
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  #118  
Old September 24th, 2016, 08:01 PM
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brake line hard to flex bracket
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  #119  
Old September 24th, 2016, 08:09 PM
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brake line hard to flex bracket
That's what i thought. But I have one rear and front of the spring perch. Any down side to taking off the front one and moving the box closer to the perch? As it sits now the hole for the steering rod ball joint in the drop arm is directly under where you would put a jate ring.

Also I think I'm realizing now designa may have forgotten to weld on my steering box plate as originally ordered.
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  #120  
Old September 24th, 2016, 08:15 PM
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defenders are in the rear. Designa was going to weld on the plate for the p38 box ?
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