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  #41  
Old August 18th, 2015, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
You will need new front calipers, or play with the plumbing on the RRC calipers so that they are single circuit. Unless you are going to get into serious offroading with it, it will be fine. The RRC mushroom capped axles have stronger CVs anyway.

-Jeff
explain por favor

i take it the range rover had a dedicate line from the MC to each caliper, while the series had one line that split with a "tee" left to right?

Going to be putting in all new brake lines anyways so that's easy enough and no extra work.
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  #42  
Old August 18th, 2015, 04:27 PM
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RRC front calipers are split into two circuits.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
explain por favor

i take it the range rover had a dedicate line from the MC to each caliper, while the series had one line that split with a "tee" left to right?

Going to be putting in all new brake lines anyways so that's easy enough and no extra work.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #43  
Old August 18th, 2015, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
RRC front calipers are split into two circuits.
got it assume one inside one outside
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  #44  
Old August 18th, 2015, 04:47 PM
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Do a search for a RRC brake circuit diagram.

-Jeff
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  #45  
Old August 18th, 2015, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Do a search for a RRC brake circuit diagram.

-Jeff
yea - that seems like a silly design with more parts to fail than necessary.

I think I'll just get calipers for a d1 and use those.
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  #46  
Old August 18th, 2015, 05:04 PM
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If you are buying calipers, the NAS d90 are the best.

-Jeff
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  #47  
Old August 22nd, 2015, 08:37 PM
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Finally done with tearing the truck down. Have all the parts in the garage ready for media blasting. Obviously the Rear tub and top are not pictured, as those are in the backyard and pretty much will be there for another year or 2 before i need to bother with them.

Going to get everything media blasted and then see what needs to be repairs, whats good to go.

Finally - i think i get to start building now.

First phone call Monday will be to Designa chassis to get my chassis ordered.

Also going to order some stuff from YRM to get me going.
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  #48  
Old August 22nd, 2015, 09:12 PM
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I urge you to try dipping over blasting. Way less traumatic to the parts and it gets inside as well as outside.
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  #49  
Old August 22nd, 2015, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I urge you to try dipping over blasting. Way less traumatic to the parts and it gets inside as well as outside.
I will look into. Any particular process of solution I should look for. Only dipping I know is what they do prior to galvanizing.....but that doesn't take off paint or rust really.
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  #50  
Old August 22nd, 2015, 09:56 PM
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Look for a shop that does chemical stripping. You get your stuff back cleaned down to white metal. Cost is more than blasting but its far more thorough and you are assured all the rust is killed. Afterward you galvanized the steel parts.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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  #51  
Old August 27th, 2015, 08:40 PM
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The pile of parts i had in the garage is gone and at the media blaster. i wasn't able to find anyone locally who could dip the parts to strip them. I told them to be extra careful with the Aluminum, we'll see what happens.

That made some room in my garage to tackle the axle assemblies i picked up out of a D1.

Tore the rear apart, and it seems to be in very good shape. Grease in the bearings was a little dirty but the races seems to be fine and the shafts and everything look to be in great shape. The truck they came out of was never wheeled thats for sure.

Im thinking about having the axle tubes Line-xed. I figured its the most durable coating out there and this is probably the most vulnerable part of the truck in terms of road debris/gravel, salt etc. again - the idea behind this build is to have everything last as long as possible.

Stub axles and hubs all look to be good. Obviously new calipers and rotors are going on, and I'll paint everything in a clear high heat paint so they don't rust (aside from where the pad contacts them)

ABS sensors and rings are getting taken out, don't plan on putting that back in.

Rear sway bar is off but I'll leave the bracket on the tubes incase i want to add later.
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  #52  
Old August 27th, 2015, 10:39 PM
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Hope your panels come back straight and not all warped from blasting!!!
Honestly, use the cheapest rustoleum enamel on your undercarriage. You won't feel bad about it getting scraped and you can touch it up with a rag soaked in paint.
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  #53  
Old August 28th, 2015, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Hope your panels come back straight and not all warped from blasting!!! Honestly, use the cheapest rustoleum enamel on your undercarriage. You won't feel bad about it getting scraped and you can touch it up with a rag soaked in paint.
I'm really on the fence about the chassis paint. Part of me says to do what you mention. But the other half is like I'm going to be really pissed if in 2 years spots of rust are popping up. Whole point of this build is to make it as rust proof as possible.


As for the panels. Yea it's a gamble I guess. I couldn't stress any more to the blasters how careful they need to be with them.
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  #54  
Old August 28th, 2015, 10:22 AM
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old frame

Bossman, I could use your old frame. Please dont junk it. will come collect it...John in Delhi, NY
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  #55  
Old August 28th, 2015, 10:23 AM
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Bossman, I could use your old frame. Please dont junk it. will come collect it...John in Delhi, NY
I'm sorry. It's already gone
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  #56  
Old August 28th, 2015, 02:50 PM
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Thought you were getting a galv chassis? Why not just get the axles glav'ed as well? You will be driving it so much; salted roads, winter, off road, etc... Just be easier to rattle can it like o2batsea says.
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Just to be clear, i was not bragging. i was calling you a pussy. Ren Ching
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  #57  
Old August 28th, 2015, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
Thought you were getting a galv chassis? Why not just get the axles glav'ed as well? You will be driving it so much; salted roads, winter, off road, etc... Just be easier to rattle can it like o2batsea says.
I am getting a half chassis. I'm going to assume that was sarcasm about galvy axle tubes

Point is would I rather "touch it up" every year or spend more money now and not touch it for 25yrs+
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  #58  
Old August 28th, 2015, 03:51 PM
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Put the chassis together and get it galv'ed then. Galv'ing axles has been done. Theres pics on here before and after. Its a real thing I swear.
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Just to be clear, i was not bragging. i was calling you a pussy. Ren Ching
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  #59  
Old August 28th, 2015, 04:04 PM
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Maybe I should put the engine in too lol
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  #60  
Old August 28th, 2015, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
Put the chassis together and get it galv'ed then. Galv'ing axles has been done. Theres pics on here before and after. Its a real thing I swear.
Where? I was going to do this and chickened out. Couldn't find any pics or success stories.
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