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  #21  
Old July 27th, 2015, 08:54 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Looking good Adrian. I am jealous of that plasma cutter!

I am sure you will be going carpet for the interior but if you want to see what a Line-X'd seatbox looks like let me know.

Frame doesn't look too bad in the pics.
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  #22  
Old July 27th, 2015, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Looking good Adrian. I am jealous of that plasma cutter!

I am sure you will be going carpet for the interior but if you want to see what a Line-X'd seatbox looks like let me know.

Frame doesn't look too bad in the pics.
Thanks Don - yea its an awesome tool. If you ever need it just let me know Real small too so easy to transport and borrow.


Let me know when you have yours line-xed I deff want to check. Im still between which route. Im leaning carpet to some degree but maybe just linexed with heavy rubber mats is just as good??


As for the frame, front half is good - back half is totally shot. To the point where i don't know how the rear axle is actually still connected lol
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  #23  
Old July 31st, 2015, 08:32 PM
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Just a quick update. Continued to tear the truck down. Got both wings off and separated outside from tops. Lights were a major pain, all hardware was rusted to hell. One of the outside wings seems to be a replacement with a fiberglass or plastic lining but aluminum skin. Also noticed some filler on that. The rest are all in good shape.

I also got the rad surround off and will put that aside for minor repair

The sand blast pile is getting big. I'm also starting I realize I'm going to spend about $1000-$1500 on hardware alone. I want to replace everything win either stainless or grade 8 with yellow zinc plating.

Bumper is trashed but the two pieces that go on either end are still good


Hope to have it down to the frame in the next few weeks!
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  #24  
Old July 31st, 2015, 09:07 PM
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Wow, that is a hot mess. You are a better man than I! Can't wait to see hot it progresses.
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  #25  
Old July 31st, 2015, 09:21 PM
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Wow, that is a hot mess. You are a better man than I! Can't wait to see hot it progresses.
Better or less rational. Lol

Just trying to take off and save all I can. All of this truck with be brand new but a lot of the important bits will be original

Question- for those who have done a power steering upgrade on such a build how much of the original steering assembly did you re-use?
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  #26  
Old July 31st, 2015, 09:36 PM
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Sweet - getting it broke down!
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  #27  
Old August 1st, 2015, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
Question- for those who have done a power steering upgrade on such a build how much of the original steering assembly did you re-use?
Used original steering column just unbolted from steering box. Cut worm gear off shaft and grafted on new 3/4-48 spline shaft. Made bracket to hold bottom of column and bearing. Attach DII steering shaft between RRC box and column. Main engineering issue with my setup is the steering box inside the frame rail.

Boy that's a $25,000 hole you just started digging.
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  #28  
Old August 1st, 2015, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Used original steering column just unbolted from steering box. Cut worm gear off shaft and grafted on new 3/4-48 spline shaft. Made bracket to hold bottom of column and bearing. Attach DII steering shaft between RRC box and column. Main engineering issue with my setup is the steering box inside the frame rail.
that's it?
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  #29  
Old August 1st, 2015, 12:47 AM
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Easy breezy
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  #30  
Old August 1st, 2015, 01:02 AM
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for the power steering you do have to attach(weld) a plate on the frame to hold the steering box, various ways have been done. Otherwise it's more or less as Bat describes.

If you are going with stainless hardware, just use stainless bolts and zinc nylock nuts. When I did my restomod the stainless on stainless without anti-seize would gall the threads and ruin the hardware. Go to Fastenal and buy 200, 3/4" 1/4-20 or 28 plus nuts and washers. That will give you a good start. In some places you will need 1" bolts.

I used Jasco and elbow grease for paint removal but I think brake fluid would work quicker.

TeriAnns website is a good resource; TeriAnn's Expedition Land Rover site

I documented my build in my blog.

HTH
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  #31  
Old August 1st, 2015, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Used original steering column just unbolted from steering box. Cut worm gear off shaft and grafted on new 3/4-48 spline shaft. Made bracket to hold bottom of column and bearing. Attach DII steering shaft between RRC box and column. Main engineering issue with my setup is the steering box inside the frame rail. Boy that's a $25,000 hole you just started digging.

Ok yea I read your thread a few time and like that the shaft is inside the frame. I've also read most use a p38 box. I can get the frame with the plate. Already welded on

Is the main issue that the splines on the series shaft is different than that of the box?


As for the hole. Yea but it will be worth $25,001 when I'm done so it's acceptable.

------ Follow up post added August 1st, 2015 06:29 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ignotus View Post
for the power steering you do have to attach(weld) a plate on the frame to hold the steering box, various ways have been done. Otherwise it's more or less as Bat describes. If you are going with stainless hardware, just use stainless bolts and zinc nylock nuts. When I did my restomod the stainless on stainless without anti-seize would gall the threads and ruin the hardware. Go to Fastenal and buy 200, 3/4" 1/4-20 or 28 plus nuts and washers. That will give you a good start. In some places you will need 1" bolts. I used Jasco and elbow grease for paint removal but I think brake fluid would work quicker. TeriAnns website is a good resource; TeriAnn's Expedition Land Rover site I documented my build in my blog. HTH
Yes I've read a few articles in that site over he hears to say the least. Wealth of info there

I'll keep that in mind for the hardware. Although I haven't had that issue in the past. Typically anything that is going to bear some weight I'll use grade 8. Anything that's just holding something light I'll use stainless since stainless is much weaker and softer.
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  #32  
Old August 1st, 2015, 07:20 PM
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It's a bit misleading about stainless being not as strong.

For instance grade 2 bolts min yield strength for 1/4-3/4" bolts is 57,000psi
Stainless in 1/4-5/8' min is 40,000 and is typically 80,000-90,000psi
grade 5 1/4-1" 92,000psi
grade 8 1/4-1 1/2" 130,000psi
Yield strength is where it shows deformation.
Tensile strength is where it breaks.
grade 2 74,000psi
stainless 100,000-125,000psi
grade 5 120,000psi
grade 8 150,000psi

While stronger than grade 2 and weaker than grade 5 It's up to you to decide if the difference is significant enough for your safety and application. I am guessing that is a pull apart testing and not torque....

#'s are from BoltDepot.com
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  #33  
Old August 3rd, 2015, 09:15 AM
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More tearing it down. Got the top off which makes for a big visual impact (but really doesn't mean much in the scheme of things.

Bulkhead continues to look good which is nice. Inner fender wells and footwells are shot but those are cheap enough. Pedal towers are good, tub is good for the most part (few minor areas to fix).

T post are solid except for the very bottom, one was rusted right through, the other is rusted but still attached.

Question - are these typically welded to the piece that goes from the bulkhead to the tub? I thought they were bolted in? As you can see i still have one in there. before i cut it out i want to make sure I'm not missing something.

Im surprised how thin and flimsy that piece is (the pc that runs from the tub to the bulkhead and the T post attaches to). Im thinking i will cut it out at the base of the Tub and weld in a new solid square or Rectangular tubing to act as a replacement, and an integrated rock slider. Thoughts on that?

I think YRM makes new T post bottoms so that should be an "easy" fix.

Other than that my biggest issue seems to be space. For now the dog has a new dog house in the back yard lol. Although i think I'll be moving it under a friends deck for awhile.


Lastly - seeing the top off makes me think i may want a soft top now, but i have some time before I have to decide on that.
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  #34  
Old August 3rd, 2015, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ignotus View Post
It's a bit misleading about stainless being not as strong.

For instance grade 2 bolts min yield strength for 1/4-3/4" bolts is 57,000psi
Stainless in 1/4-5/8' min is 40,000 and is typically 80,000-90,000psi
grade 5 1/4-1" 92,000psi
grade 8 1/4-1 1/2" 130,000psi
Yield strength is where it shows deformation.
Tensile strength is where it breaks.
grade 2 74,000psi
stainless 100,000-125,000psi
grade 5 120,000psi
grade 8 150,000psi

While stronger than grade 2 and weaker than grade 5 It's up to you to decide if the difference is significant enough for your safety and application. I am guessing that is a pull apart testing and not torque....

#'s are from BoltDepot.com
I'm really more concerned about the thread stripping where i need to TQ things down, as that tends to happen more easily on stainless than standard bolts.

There a few areas where shear and pullout strength are very important, but for most of the small stuff I'm taking apart now, its just a matter of holding things together.
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  #35  
Old August 10th, 2015, 12:24 AM
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Great start!
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  #36  
Old August 15th, 2015, 05:20 PM
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So the tear down continues. stripped the bulkhead and removed it, pretty much have the tub left and thats it to what i'll be re-using.

I had to take a break from tearing things apart...needed to do something constructive. Plus i wanted to use my plasma cutter and my new welder, so i decided to tackle the right side footwell.

I had some 18awg sheet metal laying around. perfect thickness for strength and workability. I cut out the old, and made a template with some poster board, cut the steel with my plasma cutter (god i love this thing) and bent it up on the edge of my worktable, some clamps, some angle iron, and some blocks of wood.

Then, about 2/3 the way done welding it in, i run out of CO2/Ar gas. O well, will have to put it on hold until monday.

All in all I'm very happy with the result. The drivers side looks plenty strong so i'll probably leave it as is.

Pics you can see whats left of the old one, and the new one mostly welded in.

I have some various spots to repair but for the most part the bulkhead is very solid throughout.
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  #37  
Old August 15th, 2015, 11:36 PM
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I would have let you take a tank of Argon but I kicked one last week and the other is probably running low now as well.

Repair looks really good! Is that the worst of it?
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  #38  
Old August 16th, 2015, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
I would have let you take a tank of Argon but I kicked one last week and the other is probably running low now as well. Repair looks really good! Is that the worst of it?
I got straight argon but for carbon steel really need co2 mix.

All good. Forces me to enjoy a weekend and head to the beach for a bit!

For the bulkhead....yes that was the worst of the rot. Not bad at all
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  #39  
Old August 18th, 2015, 04:02 PM
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So in my travels today I stopped by a semi local pick and pull salvage yard to see if they had any D1's i could steal the axle assemblies from.

No D1's, but they did have a 88 range rover with under a 100k, pristine swivel balls, and a nice coating of waxoyl....(ehhh maybe it was grease) all over the axles (no rust).

Now my understanding is an 88 RR has a 10 spline carrier and axles, which i was hoping to go with 24 spline. I know there are arguements that 24 spline are no stronger that 10's but perhaps just for the ease in finding replacmenets if nothing else i was leaning towards 24's

However - im pretty sure I'll end up putting in an upgraded carrier (either true-trac or the likes) as well as upgraded axles in this thing....so aside from the spline count, is there any difference between the two?

Any reason why i shouldn't go with the assemblies from a 88 range rover?

Both have disc brakes, both are coil sprung.... I was thinking i could take the power steering box as well while im there ripping into it.

I can probably get both assemblies and the pump for under $300 if im willing to do the work and remove them (which i am)
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  #40  
Old August 18th, 2015, 04:08 PM
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You will need new front calipers, or play with the plumbing on the RRC calipers so that they are single circuit. Unless you are going to get into serious offroading with it, it will be fine. The RRC mushroom capped axles have stronger CVs anyway.

-Jeff
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