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Old October 27th, 2012, 03:41 PM
RoverC
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Cliff
1997 D90 ST
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Ressurection..... maybe

This "build" of mine has stopped and started more times than I care to remember.

Some history:
I bought my 97 BRG ST D90 new late in 1997.
Supercharged it in 2008 w/ a Rimmer SC
Drove it back and forth from FL to CO, UT, AZ, NM, WY, MT about 2x a year for 4 years.
One year I actually made it from Tampa FL to Rapid City SD in 40 hours in the D90. 2276 miles, no sleep.

In 2002, the local dealer replaced the rockers, lifters and rods for me and did an oil change at 79k miles. I should have done it myself as I am capable, but was pretty busy.

So I go pick it up and hit the highway home which is about 40 miles away. I get about 3 miles and "ting" the engine shuts off. Coast to the side and turn the key, nothing. Check the lights, still have power but turning the key does nothing, no starter noise, nada.
Figured something went like the ECU or the switch etc.

Called AAA and had it towed back to the dealer. Now Ive been working on engines and rebuilding cars since I was 15, or 25 years at that point. FIRST thing they did, put it on the lift and placed a breaker bar on the crank to see if it was seized! HUH?
Now not in a million years would I have started there, but obviously they knew something I didnt.

I was standing right there when they tried the crank and it wouldnt move. I also noticed my oil pressure idiot light was disconnected. Hmmmm....

So all I can assume is that they did the rockers etc and forgot to put oil in it, backed it out into the lot (as I had seen them do many times) and let it run. Maybe noticed their error and then put in oil but the damage had been done, or maybe even took it for a test run that way. I will never know.

I do know that in less than 10 mins they had a quote for a new engine for me! Hmmmm. again...
So I called them on it, they denied it and claimed it was "due to the supercharger".
BS.
I had the SC on there for over 40k miles and it ran fine. Why would it seize the crank?
The crank had seized due to lack of oil and it had broken a rod. I took the engine apart and the pistons, rings, even valves looked almost new a I ran premium fuel, inj cleaner and water/methanol injection.

So I talked to my atty, and LR and I was basically stuck suing them. So the atty cost was about the same as I might win, and not sure I could recover atty costs anyway.

Soooo.... First I decided to build a 5.0 LR engine. Sold off the SC and even shipped allot of the parts to a builder who was going to use 300 heads etc. But what I really wanted was something reliable and this may have been but allot was specialized. I want to be able to walk into any Napa and get whatever part needed.

Project put on hold...

So I scrapped that idea and instead went with a Chevy LS1. Marks 4x4 said they had the adapters so I picked up a used engine in 2004. Bought the Marks adapters for the motor mounts and the Chevy 4L80e to Rover t/c kit. Took them 6+ mos to get them to me.
I had a 4L85e trans built by Monster Motorsports to handle 900hp (for sale by the way) and an Ashcroft built Lt230 w/ 1:1 ratio and their underdrive. Bolted that all together.

Project on hold, again.

In 2007 I was able to score a steal on a L92 engine, complete with all acc and wiring and ECU, 6L80e trans, GM t/c all for $6k. The best part? The Cadillac ESV it came out of had a tree fall on it and the drive train had 27 miles on it. Sold off the LS1, the GM t/c, exh manifolds, cats etc.
What I liked about this engine was that it was a truck engine, all aluminum, designed to go 150k miles yet puts out 403hp/417tq stock and has VVT. With a tune and headers, an easy 450+ hp/tq is attainable.
The great thing about the 6 speed is that its got identical gearing to our ZF trannies, just with a 4.08 first and a .67 6th added. Better offroad and better highways gearing.

Now the issue is that no one made an adapter as the 6L80/6L90's have a much larger bolt pattern on the tranny. On the 6L though the output spline is the same as the 4L85 I had already. So some of the parts could be reused, and some had to be made. In the end, it was all bolted together and put into the truck.

Of course only then do I find out the Marks engine adapters fit the OLD style Chevy engines not the new ones.
Due to economic, personal and other reasons, its put on hold again late 2008.

So now its late 2012 and its time to get at least something done.
Rolled it out of the garage and surprisingly washed up nicely.

Things I need to do are:
figure out what acc drives to use, as they will hit the PS box as is (probably use a 2012 camaro PS mount and put the alt on the pass side)
what type of headers will fit (possibly Thorleys)
radiator and electric fans (thinking fans from a Ford Raptor and custom rad)
2012 Camaro oil pan w/ baffle and oil cooler (1.5 more qts oil and puts the drain on the drivers side)
Extreme duty flex plate

Then I can have a shop put it back in and make some mounts for me so everything clears!

Here are a few pics.
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  #2  
Old October 27th, 2012, 03:53 PM
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Kent
1985 110 3-door
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I am dying to see how this turns out. Best of luck to you.
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  #3  
Old October 27th, 2012, 08:26 PM
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Chris
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Drags jaw off ground. WOW subscribed!
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #4  
Old October 27th, 2012, 08:45 PM
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Daniel Rogers
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Awesome! I'd pick up some hooker super comp block hugging headers. I have them on my 5.3l gen III engine in a series. Same frame rail dimensions similar engine.

Might also consider putting a p38 rover steering box on the truck too to make some room.

I want that driveline in my 109 project except I'm going with Timm Coopers t case. Good luck with everything!

Daniel
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  #5  
Old October 27th, 2012, 10:41 PM
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Ian Gregory
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Subscribed.
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  #6  
Old October 28th, 2012, 02:43 PM
RoverC
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Cliff
1997 D90 ST
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Daniel,
Can you enlighten me as to the other PS box, and how it compares to the D90 one as to strength and ratio? Any pics how it looks esp installed?

------ Follow up post added October 28th, 2012 02:44 PM ------

also, whats a timm cooper t case? One that is part time 4wd?
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Old October 28th, 2012, 04:12 PM
RoverC
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Cliff
1997 D90 ST
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Well mine never leaked, nor did the engine or diffs or anything actually. The only leak I ever had was when I picked it up brand new! It came leaking from the factory.
A t/c seal was leaking. Was a .89 seal and $400 in labor under warranty, lol.

So how do you run that box and it clear the inner fender wells?
Does it line up with the rest of the linkage or ?

would definitely give me allot more room
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Old October 28th, 2012, 07:44 PM
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Daniel Rogers
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You would need to trim the wheel well for sure and weld a 1/2" plate to the outside of the frame. You would also need a longer drag link and probably a different pitman arm than the one that comes on the p38. Probably a little work to connect it to the steering column. Not sure but some one must have put one on these on a d90 before.

I used the p38 box and arm. I had to heat the arm till it was glowing and bend it a bit to make sure it wouldn't contact the frame on my series.

Timm's t-case is part time 2wd. He designed a case that uses the main gears from an np205, has the front output housing and rear drum from a series t case. Passenger side drops and wide enough to fit behind the 4l60e transmissions. He suggested it would fit behind the 6l80 too but I don't think anyone has done this yet. There are only a few of these cases in existence at this point but I've driven two vehicles with them and I have one for my rig.

Good luck with your project. Looks like its going to be awesome.

Daniel
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  #9  
Old October 29th, 2012, 12:18 AM
RoverC
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Cliff
1997 D90 ST
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Do you have any photos of that case?

Does the 2/4 wd act like 2wd then 4 wd difflock, with low being the same?

What is the benefit to the NP gears? Stronger or different gearing?

Id assume you dont need an adapter then for the trans or?

the Marks adapter puts the case back about 5" which isnt too bad, but if it didnt it would never clear the trans pan. The 6L80 is actually thinner than the 4L80.

Thanks
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  #10  
Old October 29th, 2012, 01:12 AM
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Daniel Rogers
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I dont have a picture and the case is at Timm's place. Maybe Brian from Roam Offroad will chime in. He's got one in his series 3 behind a lq9/4l60e setup. I got to drive it last week and its awesome.

The tcase functions exactly like a series t case, and in fact uses the two series sticks.

I'll try to get a pic. Not sure if Timm has any more of these available or not, or if/when he intends to make more. I'll ask him next time I call asking for help on my project.

Daniel
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  #11  
Old October 29th, 2012, 02:40 AM
RoverC
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Cliff
1997 D90 ST
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How does a series t case work?
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Old October 29th, 2012, 09:43 AM
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Daniel Rogers
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2wd hi lo. 4wd hi lo. Two stix. Iirc yellow knob push down to engage 4wd, red knob pull back and forth to change gearing. Going from low back to high disengages 4wd. Its been a couple years since I've done it! I don't remember all the gearing especially with the automatic trans but iirc the np205 itself is geared 2:1 in low. There is a 3:1 "low max" gear set out there too but not sure it's needed with the automatic.

Daniel
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  #13  
Old October 29th, 2012, 11:44 AM
RoverC
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Cliff
1997 D90 ST
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Id like to learn more about Timms case, but for my needs an LT230 fits better.
I only want parts that I can easily access if something breaks.

In this case, if only a few of Timms cases exist, what are the odds of sourcing parts quickly should something break on me 4000 miles from home?
I can find an LT in minutes online and have one in a day and back on the road quickly.

If you come across any pics or details, please pass them along though!
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  #14  
Old October 29th, 2012, 12:31 PM
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very nice
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  #15  
Old October 29th, 2012, 07:54 PM
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Ian Gregory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverC View Post
Any pics how it looks esp installed?


Pics are of a P38 Steering box and pitman arm. It mounts to the outside of the frame rail as has been said. You will need to fab up a way to mount it and also the drag link and pan hard rod (and PHR Mount at the frame) will need to be worked out. Inner fender needs to be trimmed as Jeff said. It may put the box out of the way of your pulley set up (maybe). The maybe is because there is some overhang above the frame rail and you would need to work out if there is enough room.

There are various installed pics here on Terrianne’s website but most are series trucks I think although the difference shouldn’t matter for what you’re doing.

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/PowerSteering.htm
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