Rear frame work on NAS Defender 90 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old December 12th, 2014, 07:52 PM
wmatos1001's Avatar
wmatos1001
Status: Offline
William
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 409
Registry
Rear frame work on NAS Defender 90

Started the rear cross member replacement today. Cut out all existing rear member, sand blasted trailing arms and rear bumper for paint. New rear frame member is galvanized and includes rear shock mounts.

The rest of the frame is in extremely good condition but when all is back together I'm having a full WaxOyl treatment done for rust proofing and black coating of the under carriage.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG1240.jpg
Views:	249
Size:	82.3 KB
ID:	108543  
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old December 12th, 2014, 10:02 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Make sure to grind the galvy off the ends where you weld.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old December 12th, 2014, 10:39 PM
jruti's Avatar
jruti
Status: Offline
Jon Ruti
'94 D-90, #20
Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NYC & Bedford, NY
Posts: 310
Registry
Ugh, this is exactly the repair I need. Dreading it.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old December 12th, 2014, 11:48 PM
Z.G's Avatar
Z.G
Status: Offline
Zack
300Tdi 95 D1
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Burlington, VT
Posts: 4,680
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by jruti View Post
Ugh, this is exactly the repair I need. Dreading it.
You're lucky it's just this, and not the entire chassis.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old December 13th, 2014, 12:40 AM
wmatos1001's Avatar
wmatos1001
Status: Offline
William
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 409
Registry
I know I am lucky. We have been through the rest of the frame and it really is quite good. The only other thing that needed replacement is the tubular bar that bolts to the body and frame just forward of the rear wheel well. That bar was fine except both end where it bolts to the body were pretty rotted.

Although it is expensive I'll be happy when it is all done.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old December 13th, 2014, 08:49 AM
1of40's Avatar
1of40
Status: Offline
1of40
NAS 97SW & 83 One Ten Tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Potomac Falls & Wintergreen, Virginia
Posts: 6,084
Registry
While you have the back portion removed and out of the way are there plans to take a look inside. That's usually where all the big trouble starts.

In an ideal world one would allocate some resource to the frame's interior as well I guess.

Clay
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3984441862.jpg
Views:	195
Size:	294.6 KB
ID:	108554  
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old December 13th, 2014, 08:51 AM
rovertek's Avatar
rovertek
Status: Offline
chris
D130, 2001+99 p38
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Long Island , New York
Posts: 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by jruti View Post
Ugh, this is exactly the repair I need. Dreading it.
Come on down i actually enjoy doing chassis repairs
and you can pick up you door hinges .....LOL
__________________
No Mall crawler here
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old December 13th, 2014, 11:32 AM
jruti's Avatar
jruti
Status: Offline
Jon Ruti
'94 D-90, #20
Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NYC & Bedford, NY
Posts: 310
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by rovertek View Post
Come on down i actually enjoy doing chassis repairs and you can pick up you door hinges .....LOL
HAHA, I know Chris! I'll shoot you a text this week, we have to set something up. Hinges for sure and talk about my cross - which I can put my fingers through. LOL.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old December 13th, 2014, 07:23 PM
wmatos1001's Avatar
wmatos1001
Status: Offline
William
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 409
Registry
Here are some more shots of the tub bar mount replacement, under carriage and the old rear frame member. Definitely needed to come out!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG1255.jpg
Views:	182
Size:	70.7 KB
ID:	108607   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG1254.jpg
Views:	175
Size:	68.8 KB
ID:	108608  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG1253.jpg
Views:	168
Size:	67.8 KB
ID:	108609   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG1252.jpg
Views:	184
Size:	76.6 KB
ID:	108610  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG1251.jpg
Views:	169
Size:	94.3 KB
ID:	108611   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG1250.jpg
Views:	161
Size:	85.1 KB
ID:	108612  

Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old December 13th, 2014, 07:28 PM
wmatos1001's Avatar
wmatos1001
Status: Offline
William
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 409
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by jruti View Post
HAHA, I know Chris! I'll shoot you a text this week, we have to set something up. Hinges for sure and talk about my cross - which I can put my fingers through. LOL.
I did my hinges myself for what its worth and I'm not very mechanically inclined. With a lot of research me and my wife were able to get a near perfect paint job on them, drilled out or removed the stubborn bolts, put new captive nuts in where needed and got it all done. Took a good part of weekend but was really rewarding when we were done and saw it all finished. We did all three doors.

As for the rear member, I do think Atlantic British now sells just the rear cross member, not the frame from the rear shock mounts back. I haven't priced it out but imagine since it is just the rear part that sits behind the bumper it must be cheaper. On my vehicle that very rear most part was the worst but I figured since I'm going in I might as well get it all done.

Good luck with whatever you chose and if you decide on doing hinges yourself and want advice/tips just shoot me a PM and I'll give you my cell #.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old December 14th, 2014, 12:04 AM
jruti's Avatar
jruti
Status: Offline
Jon Ruti
'94 D-90, #20
Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NYC & Bedford, NY
Posts: 310
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmatos1001 View Post
I did my hinges myself for what its worth and I'm not very mechanically inclined. With a lot of research me and my wife were able to get a near perfect paint job on them, drilled out or removed the stubborn bolts, put new captive nuts in where needed and got it all done. Took a good part of weekend but was really rewarding when we were done and saw it all finished. We did all three doors. As for the rear member, I do think Atlantic British now sells just the rear cross member, not the frame from the rear shock mounts back. I haven't priced it out but imagine since it is just the rear part that sits behind the bumper it must be cheaper. On my vehicle that very rear most part was the worst but I figured since I'm going in I might as well get it all done. Good luck with whatever you chose and if you decide on doing hinges yourself and want advice/tips just shoot me a PM and I'll give you my cell #.
Awesome! Thanks Will I will definitely take you up on that offer!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old December 14th, 2014, 03:27 AM
Chip's Avatar
Chip
Status: Offline
Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,497
Did you lower the gearbox crossmember and check the chassis there? That's where mine rotted away.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old December 14th, 2014, 09:55 AM
don's Avatar
don
Status: Offline
Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rumson, NJ
Posts: 4,272
Registry
Do you guys add a plate(s) on the outside of the frame rail when butt welding the new frame section in? I swear LR designed that rear cross member to catch and hold mud. I SMH every time I look back there.

If you have time, might be good to get those tub bars galvied. Speaking of which I will have to do my tub supports when I do the body swap next spring.

Nice to see those crispy frame parts taken out.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old December 14th, 2014, 10:23 AM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
No the replacement cross members slide over the existing frame with about 6" overlap.

Are they re-using the existing fuel tank hangers? If not, hang onto those as someone else could surely use them.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old December 14th, 2014, 01:46 PM
wmatos1001's Avatar
wmatos1001
Status: Offline
William
1994 NAS Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 409
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
Did you lower the gearbox crossmember and check the chassis there? That's where mine rotted away.
No not yet but we definitely will thanks for the tip!

------ Follow up post added December 14th, 2014 01:51 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Do you guys add a plate(s) on the outside of the frame rail when butt welding the new frame section in? I swear LR designed that rear cross member to catch and hold mud. I SMH every time I look back there.

If you have time, might be good to get those tub bars galvied. Speaking of which I will have to do my tub supports when I do the body swap next spring.

Nice to see those crispy frame parts taken out.
I will inquire about the plate(s) on the outside of the frame rail. Good idea to keep that mud out. Also the tub bars are not galvanized and are already in so too late for that. But the new tub rail is actually two sections and slide into each other in the middle. My mechanic hit the inside of the tub rail with rust proofing (waxoyl) and once the rear member is on and everything is buttoned up he is hitting the whole under carriage with waxoyl again. So i'm hopeful I will be able to keep rust at bay with that and good under carriage cleaning after off roading or winter driving.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old December 29th, 2014, 10:28 AM
BrianKelley
Status: Offline
Brian Kelley
94 Defender 90 NAS
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Westerly, RI
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmatos1001 View Post
Started the rear cross member replacement today. Cut out all existing rear member, sand blasted trailing arms and rear bumper for paint. New rear frame member is galvanized and includes rear shock mounts.

The rest of the frame is in extremely good condition but when all is back together I'm having a full WaxOyl treatment done for rust proofing and black coating of the under carriage.
Just finished doing this repair as well. I opted to take off the rear tub to get a better look at the frame (a full waxoyl treatment is planned because of this,) I was prompted to do this when my rear skid plate protecting the gas tank had rotted out. So in total, I've added in rear crossmember w/ 15" extensions, new brackets to mount skid plate, as well as custom aluminum skid plate.
Probably much more too....fun project, good luck with yours.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0049.jpg
Views:	209
Size:	97.3 KB
ID:	109623   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0051.jpg
Views:	176
Size:	99.3 KB
ID:	109624  

Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old December 29th, 2014, 10:42 AM
Z.G's Avatar
Z.G
Status: Offline
Zack
300Tdi 95 D1
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Burlington, VT
Posts: 4,680
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianKelley View Post
Just finished doing this repair as well. I opted to take off the rear tub to get a better look at the frame (a full waxoyl treatment is planned because of this,) I was prompted to do this when my rear skid plate protecting the gas tank had rotted out. So in total, I've added in rear crossmember w/ 15" extensions, new brackets to mount skid plate, as well as custom aluminum skid plate.
Probably much more too....fun project, good luck with yours.
Are we not going to mention the car in the background....
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old December 29th, 2014, 10:51 AM
BrianKelley
Status: Offline
Brian Kelley
94 Defender 90 NAS
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Westerly, RI
Posts: 14
Smile

Oh yes, that's my buddy's Factory Five super car that he's building. Talk about the opposite ends of the transportation spectrum all in the same garage!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores

Tags
90, defender, defender 90, nas

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
NAS 110 frame needs bulkhead outrigger and rear crossmember $400 or labor philly evilfij For Sale - Parts 5 October 7th, 2013 07:59 PM
What wheels work with a NAS 90 bikerblock Defender Technical Discussions 4 March 22nd, 2012 12:46 PM
1997 NAS frame vs a Richards galv frame? tomaco1 Defender Technical Discussions 1 November 13th, 2011 05:41 PM
NAS V8 tach- will it work with a Tdi ? Uncle Douglas Defender Technical Discussions 6 January 30th, 2009 03:13 PM
Rear Work Lamp rover4x4 Misc. Chit-Chat 5 February 19th, 2005 12:41 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:32 AM.


Copyright