Had a few messages asking how difficult it is to get our Puma Dashboard into an older model Defender, so thought I would post a few pictures to show the process.
Taking the old dash out is very easy as it's just a number of screws and bolts. Top tip here is to mark and number EVERY single wire that you unplug to make it easier to put it all back together again!
With everything out we cleaned up the bulkhead and applied some additional soundproofing.
We wanted to use the original blower/fan so made a bulkhead flange that fits onto the fan outlet. The two outlets connect to 32mm ducting which then feeds the various vents, top and bottom.
Rough idea of how it would look behind the dashboard.
All of the old switches were converted over to new Carling switches. Even the fan control, normally run from a lever, is moved across to a Carling 2 speed switch.
With the bulkhead ready, it's time to install the Puma Dashboard using the same screws and fixings as per the dashboard you took out. Three across the top and two on each side. That's it. The genuine Puma Dashboard from Land Rover would need additional fixings plus a bulkhead bracing bar to stop it from flexing as it's very thin. Ours just bolts in solid using 7 screws.
We retain all the old gauges, just removed them from the old square binnacle and fitted them into our Puma style one. This is when the numbering of the wires comes in handy. :whistling:
Putting a new steering wheel on gave it a completely different feel from the driver's position.
With the center console not yet fitted you can see the pipe ducting to the two lower vents, plus the hot/cold lever, which used to be up on top, but we transferred into the center console complete with the existing cable.
LT77 and R380 gear sticks need to be kinked so as to clear the dashboard, without altering the operation position.
Center console cover starts out as a blank section, which can be cut to suit any configuration for switches, dials and head unit. We decided to fit a Double Din head unit with Sat-Nav and reversing camera.
I know that I've simplified the process quite a lot, but it's really straightforward without having to worry about the electrics, the heater or the fittings. We can now do a conversion in a couple of days no problem. Allow a week for a DIY fit... 🍿
Jonathan
Taking the old dash out is very easy as it's just a number of screws and bolts. Top tip here is to mark and number EVERY single wire that you unplug to make it easier to put it all back together again!
With everything out we cleaned up the bulkhead and applied some additional soundproofing.
We wanted to use the original blower/fan so made a bulkhead flange that fits onto the fan outlet. The two outlets connect to 32mm ducting which then feeds the various vents, top and bottom.
Rough idea of how it would look behind the dashboard.
All of the old switches were converted over to new Carling switches. Even the fan control, normally run from a lever, is moved across to a Carling 2 speed switch.
With the bulkhead ready, it's time to install the Puma Dashboard using the same screws and fixings as per the dashboard you took out. Three across the top and two on each side. That's it. The genuine Puma Dashboard from Land Rover would need additional fixings plus a bulkhead bracing bar to stop it from flexing as it's very thin. Ours just bolts in solid using 7 screws.
We retain all the old gauges, just removed them from the old square binnacle and fitted them into our Puma style one. This is when the numbering of the wires comes in handy. :whistling:
Putting a new steering wheel on gave it a completely different feel from the driver's position.
With the center console not yet fitted you can see the pipe ducting to the two lower vents, plus the hot/cold lever, which used to be up on top, but we transferred into the center console complete with the existing cable.
LT77 and R380 gear sticks need to be kinked so as to clear the dashboard, without altering the operation position.
Center console cover starts out as a blank section, which can be cut to suit any configuration for switches, dials and head unit. We decided to fit a Double Din head unit with Sat-Nav and reversing camera.
I know that I've simplified the process quite a lot, but it's really straightforward without having to worry about the electrics, the heater or the fittings. We can now do a conversion in a couple of days no problem. Allow a week for a DIY fit... 🍿
Jonathan