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  #21  
Old April 7th, 2009, 07:03 PM
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Ryan Hoffmeyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover
Are they spot welding the rear 1/4s in?
Yeah, they are going to spot weld them in and make the spot welds visible. they are also using sheet metal adhesive for added strength.
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  #22  
Old April 7th, 2009, 11:11 PM
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Mike
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Thumbs up

Sounds like they are doing a great job! Keep us posted on the progress. Are you painting the cappings or having those galvanized? Check out the '95 Pendy is selling...the galvy looks good...


Cheers...
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  #23  
Old April 8th, 2009, 09:02 AM
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Jeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanB16
There was. When I bought the truck, the price on the tub was 2K. and if I remeber correctly, some of the cappings were banged up from moving it around and such and probably needed to be replaced anyway. and who knows how many more dings from transporting that back from charlotte that would occur.

So what I did was:
both rear qrts - 120 for the pair,
both top cappings - 112 each,
one rear corner capping - 11.
bag o rivots - 30
labor for install - 550

All and all, I am under a grand.

The key to this was finding a Land Rover body shop. Every other body shop goes by the book on how many hours the book suggests. and in the european body shop book, it list that each quarter panel takes 17 hours. one shop actually quoted me over 3K just to do the two quarters (and I provide the panels) Luckily I found a Rover shop that has delt with defenders before so the price was much more affordable. they bid the job on how many hours it really does take. which was nice.
what body shop are you having the work done at?
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  #24  
Old April 8th, 2009, 10:42 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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Nice, keep the pics coming. It looks like the body shop is doing a great job!

IIRC, LR went to the new style head with fewer bolts because they found that the 3rd row of bolts was causing premature head gasket failure. I've heard that a lot of people don't reinstall the 3rd row of bolts when they do head gaskets in order to prevent this.
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  #25  
Old April 10th, 2009, 02:12 PM
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Ryan Hoffmeyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gore Ranger
what body shop are you having the work done at?
Johns Collision Repair is doing the work. LR Denver South referred me to them. its the place where they takes all their rovers to get worked on. It should be ready for pickup on monday. then on to the paint prep work. Here is some more pictures with the cappings all in place.
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  #26  
Old April 10th, 2009, 02:34 PM
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barry f
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Looks good but shouldnt you have painted it first?
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  #27  
Old April 10th, 2009, 02:52 PM
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Tom
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I thought to get an "A" one job you paint all these panels first too?

whish I knew a place in Florida where you can get a quality job without breaking the bank.
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  #28  
Old April 10th, 2009, 05:17 PM
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LOL. why is the rear land rover badge upside down??
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  #29  
Old April 11th, 2009, 11:51 AM
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Ryan Hoffmeyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlaD90
I thought to get an "A" one job you paint all these panels first too?.
that would have been nice but much more expensive. I would have to paint it twice if I were to do that. none of the rivots would be painted. All the capping came primed from the dealer. and none of the factory pieces were painted under the cappings.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI Guy
LOL. why is the rear land rover badge upside down??
=) that is from the the previous owners sense of humor. The fact that its been on its top deserves the badge to be upside down. What was impressive whats that the body shop couldn't find the seem of the badge on how it used to be (right side up). so they were stumped on how long it has been that way and if it ever was put on the right way. it gets a lot of laughs. it is like the red bull can over the ignition coil trick.

unfortunately, it will have to go on the right way after it gets painted.
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  #30  
Old April 11th, 2009, 01:37 PM
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Ryan, make sure you remove the badge prior to painting. Reinstall after the paint job....
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  #31  
Old April 11th, 2009, 02:47 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I would think brush painting primer on the sections of panel covered by the cappings would quick, cheap, and effective. What do people normally do?
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  #32  
Old April 12th, 2009, 10:38 PM
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Ryan Hoffmeyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
I would think brush painting primer on the sections of panel covered by the cappings would quick, cheap, and effective. What do people normally do?
that is much needed with working steel on steel, and would have to be done. It is an aluminum panel under the dealer primed steel capping. any water that would get under there would be pressed up against the aluminum and be fine. the parts that rust are already primed.
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  #33  
Old April 12th, 2009, 11:46 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Yeah, sounds reasonable.
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  #34  
Old April 13th, 2009, 06:55 AM
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Tom
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Ryan,

Keep those pictures comming man!!! did not mean to nit-pick about the painting process.
The trip to Alaska is fantastic amigo, safety is top priority GPS, GPS, cant say enough about this.
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  #35  
Old April 13th, 2009, 10:49 PM
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Ryan Hoffmeyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlaD90
Ryan,

Keep those pictures comming man!!! did not mean to nit-pick about the painting process.
The trip to Alaska is fantastic amigo, safety is top priority GPS, GPS, cant say enough about this.
GPS is my specialty, I have the garmin on the dash, the PLB in the bag, the military grade Suunto GPS wrist watch with navigation, I jsut picked up the Spot GPS locator beacon (mainly for the text communication ability and the trip tracking capability.) I am putting the tracking link of the SPOT on my webpage so people can track my progress and see where I am in my trip. THe SPOT links with google earth so it should be pretty easy to monitor.

Follow-up Post:

So here is what happened with the body shop that is doing to work on my rover. I had stressed about having the spot welds and how I need them to be visible, etc, etc. They told me it wouldn't be a problem. "Return to factory specs" is that they said. so, they called me up a few days ago and said spot welding is going to be a problem and the bill adjustment to have it done would be an aditional $700. almost double of the original bid to have the qtrs put on and pulled back to sq. My problem that I am faced with is that they already glued it back together so spot welding is now out of the question unless removing the qtrs and starting over.

I went down to talk to them about it and they told me they mis-bid it and didn't realize how many spot welds there are. I mentioned to them that I am in the remodel business and if I mis-bid a basement finish, I eat the cost. it sucks but it happens. they told me in the auto body world, it doesn't work that way.

They mentioned a few ideas of how to get the "spot weld look" but I am a bit skeptical about it. They want to take like a 6mm socket and hammer in little spot welds everywhere.

0r, they want to put on the primer thick, and then with an eraser of a #2 pencil, go around and place little dimples everywhere.

I am not a big fan about either. I guess what I am trying to get to, is that I am pretty much S.O.L on the subject. What other options do I have?

Ryan
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  #36  
Old April 14th, 2009, 08:07 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Damn that sucks. I'd ask someone like Mike at ECR.

Is this truck really going to look "stock" or have no trace of having been rolled/wrecked when done? If not, I'd just skip the fake welds. If not, do it right. Sucks they won't honor the bid though.
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  #37  
Old April 14th, 2009, 08:29 AM
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Jim Cheney
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We just had a thread here where some of the pros offered good advice about the spot-weld thing, I forget where its at though. Of course its BS about them messing up the bid. Seems more and more places are happy these days to behave this way - I don't get it. But anyway...

I don't think I'd be too disappointed with just replicating the spot-weld look if the rest of the job was satisfactory. How about using a hole punch on sand paper to create a bunch of little discs, then use adhesive (there is adhesive backed sand paper right?) and stick the little discs to the end of a pencil eraser - chuck the pencil into your drill and make your spot weld marks. You could even vary the pressure and angle to get some variation etc. Once you paint it, I bet it would be hard to tell the difference.
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  #38  
Old April 14th, 2009, 10:37 AM
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Steve Maietta
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Skip the fake spot welds. Is it really that important of a look that you'd fake it? (for something that no one but you will really notice anyway?) You've got rivets and dents - thats the real LR stuff right there.

keep going! get her on the road..

~Steve
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  #39  
Old April 14th, 2009, 10:59 AM
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Ryan,

Try this:

"Ok, great, give me my truck back as is and I am paying you nothing or fix it the way agreed at the agreed upon amount or I will tie you up in court and cost you 10 times what you are making off the job and truthfully tell my story everywhere on the internet and to all my friends."

Also, pay with amex and dispute the charge if they will not release the truck without payment.

Ron
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  #40  
Old April 29th, 2009, 01:20 PM
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Ryan Hoffmeyer
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Paint Shop

Well, I dropped it off to the paint guy last week. Sorry I am a little late with posting the before pictures. They primed it all yesterday and should be spraying the red either today or tomorrow. so more pictures will follow soon. but these were the ones before i dropped it off. I should have it back before the weekend and then start re-assembly.
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