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  #21  
Old November 20th, 2006, 05:01 PM
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Mike Hammond
110 200Tdi and a 2005 Scorpa SY250
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Thanks Randy. Progress is almost non-existant since I posted those pics. I moved a bit of exhaust nearer the chassis and that's it. the leaves are mostly off the trees now!!!
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  #22  
Old December 5th, 2006, 04:27 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Well the exhaust sustem is on . You'd think it would just bolt straight on(it came straight off) but some fiddling about was required to prevent it fouling the odd chassis bracket that's present on the new chassis but not the old
The side tank is on as are both prop shafts.
Rear tank, fuel plumbimg and transfer pump for the aux. side mounted tank are next on the list to be stripped off, cleaned up and refitted.
I'll post a few more pics when that's done
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  #23  
Old January 21st, 2007, 02:58 PM
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Mike Hammond
110 200Tdi and a 2005 Scorpa SY250
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Progress at last

Removed the front axle from the old 110 and refitted it to the new chassis this afternoon. Amazing how much you can get done with no help from an 18 month boy
Both fuel tanks are also fitted and the steering box is all bolted up too
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  #24  
Old January 23rd, 2007, 09:01 AM
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Nice... I love it..
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  #25  
Old January 24th, 2007, 05:51 PM
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Mike Hammond
110 200Tdi and a 2005 Scorpa SY250
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Thanks, I looked back at the first post... 2004 scary how time flies
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  #26  
Old February 25th, 2007, 04:57 PM
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Mike Hammond
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More progress:
Dragged the rear axle out from uder the old chassis and finished mounting it today
It's a heavy old lump
Got the bulkhead, B posts & sills and a crossmember back from the galvanisers. They're animals, managed to bend the rain channel that sits under the bonnet I beat it more or less straight
The bulkhead buckled a bit The large bolts that mount it to the chassis wouldn't line up. They were about 10mm out, a good deal of levering with a length of 4x2 sorted that out and so the bulkhead is on too. still need to drill & tap various holes in the bulkhead but it's starting to look a bit more like a landrover now. Here's some pics:
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  #27  
Old February 25th, 2007, 05:12 PM
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Nice.. My last bulkhead was droped on the foot well and crushed in. I had to beat it back into shape with a body hammer and a few other things.. Loooks good now though..
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  #28  
Old February 26th, 2007, 02:48 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI Guy
Nice.. My last bulkhead was droped on the foot well and crushed in. I had to beat it back into shape with a body hammer and a few other things.. Loooks good now though..
Was that the series coiler, I'd never have known
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  #29  
Old March 11th, 2007, 02:50 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Two steps foward and one back
Both axles are on properly but the auxiliary tank under the driver's side is going to go. It protrudes beyond the toe pannel for the second row seats and will just delay the build too much, filling the aux tank was going to take a bit of lateral thinking too so the long and short of it is it's going to have to go no more 900 mile runs between fill ups
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  #30  
Old March 12th, 2007, 08:42 AM
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For a auxil. tank look at these guys we carry there stuff here in the US. www.safari-equip.co.uk

Eric
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  #31  
Old March 12th, 2007, 05:36 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Thanks for the thought, might well go on the rear wing route for the extra fuel capacity.
I was thinking of jerry cans in some acks accessable through the second row doors.
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  #32  
Old March 13th, 2007, 09:17 AM
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Kevin Barrett
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looking good Mike, love the galvanising. Out of interest what was the cost of getting the bulkhead galvanised and how much preparation did you have to do to it beforehand?
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  #33  
Old March 14th, 2007, 04:03 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Gave the bulkhead a power wash, They told me not to waste time getting it grit blasted because any paint left on in the inside of box sections would need "burning off". Not quite sure what burning off entailed but it wasn't putting it of a large bonfire or attacking it with some sort of blow lamp
I think they threw it all in a large galvanising tank and stripped it off in acid baths untill it was clean and shiny then galvanised it a final time, the sills/B posts have come out particularly well. Cost was around £160 for all four bits, but it went in and out of the tanks several times. Overall I'm pleased with the result & cost. I'll be sending the front damper turrets, spare wheel carrier and all the body cappings to get done too.
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  #34  
Old May 27th, 2007, 02:07 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Progress at last (again) Easter saw the bulkhead on, pedals on clutch and brake hydraulics made up bled & working, all the suspension fitted, a fuel pump fitted for the non-existant second tank & the main tank fitted and plumbed in. There then followed a pause while I took stock then fitted all the little plastic clips the dash board screwsinto on the bulkhead, every one had to be filed out after the galvanising made the holes too small for the fittings to fit into
The seat box and toe board is on and one of the side frames (it's a station wagon)
It was so long ago (October 2004) that I'm a bit hazy, does the rear body go on them the side frames or is it the other way round? I do remember it was a PITA to disassemble and every bolt had to be ground,cut or sheared off and someone advised me to leave it all as one lump.

So the question is do the side frames go on first or the rear body?

I'll post some pics soon of the progress.
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  #35  
Old May 27th, 2007, 06:32 PM
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Jim Cheney
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I'm sure its possible to replace the t-pieces without removing the tub, so I would think the tub would go on first...
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  #36  
Old May 28th, 2007, 04:23 AM
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Mike Hammond
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Thanks for the input.
I was trying to get one jump ahead and get some parts fitted and out the way. The rear tub isn't ready to go on yet. There are a few holes wgere the alloy has corroded on contact with the steel also I've got to find out if new galvanised capings are still available over here and if so would be cheaper to blast and galvanise the rusty painted offerings that came with the rear tub or buy new. So I'll just have to get on with the wiring loom. It still needs stripping out of the old 110. Hopefully it will come out Ok because replacements from Autosparks cost £300.00 + tax
Does the loom go in first followed by the dash, the other way round or do they both go in togehter?
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  #37  
Old May 28th, 2007, 09:39 AM
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Loom first, then dash. I have one of the looms that runs through a central hole instead of a newer on that runs through the two oblong holes. I ran the loom first, then installed the lower dashto support everything and kept building from there.
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  #38  
Old May 28th, 2007, 01:23 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Thanks Jim,
So it's old dash off, loom out, loom in on new truck, fuse box in, dash in on galvanised bulkhead.....
5 minute job that is if the loom comes out in one piece, that's just bound to happen with 22 year old pvc insulation
My loom runs through the central hole too does that make it any easier?
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  #39  
Old May 29th, 2007, 08:28 AM
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Pics... Pics..
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  #40  
Old May 29th, 2007, 09:07 AM
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I accidentally got an alarm spec Tdi harness before I got my AMR5856, and it ran through the two oval holes. From studying it, I think I would have preferred it, set-up wise. The central hole one is obviously a little simpler, but its annoying for running any additional wires after everything is reassembled.

Randy is right, we need pix...
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