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NAS 110 145/500 Restoration

36K views 239 replies 40 participants last post by  JimC 
#1 ·
Now that there is some progress and plans, I guess its time to start a thread dedicated to this resto.

I bought the truck in late 07: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13597

Some choice quotes from that thread:

WhiteD90: "it looks like it is in decent shape"

Wrong!

JimC: "I've seen worse"

Wrong!

Recent quote from evilfij: "I don't know if I've ever seen worse."

In all fairness, I might have seen worse sitting on ECR's lot, but that question is purely academic.

First, I've pulled the cage and had it powder coated, pix to come.

The most recent progress is freshly blasted and galvanized parts...
 

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#77 ·
Tyler Wirken said:
Hey on the disc brake conversion. Does it use D-90 hubs as well as calipers and rotors? Also did you just spray paint the rear axle casing? I am still debating what I am going to do with mine. Paint for powder coat.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Tyler
Evil answered the hubs part.

And yeah, I rattle-canned the axles, but that is really just to make them black. Beforehand I had them sandblasted and painted with a zinc-rich epoxy primer which is supposed to be just as good as galv, but isn't a dip - so it doesn't do the inside of stuff.
 
#78 ·
Yesterday was really wet, but I had work to do. I got the finished axles under the chassis, dropped in the motor, and stuck the bulkhead on. Still a bit of work to do, but its great to have something that looks like a truck again.
 

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#79 ·
Looking sweet! So are the wheels galvy or just silver?
So when you did the disk conversion what axles did you use as the drum ones I have heard are too short for disc hubs etc..... Did you just buy stock disc axles?

Keep up the good work. Love the color. Did I see the heads and plenu
the same color?
 
#80 ·
Thanks Tyler!
1) Wheels are just silver paint over zinc primer.
2) I did the disc conversion on the original drum axle using RRC non-abs hubs and D90/D1 rear calipers and discs.
3) The motor is the 4.6 that MattDH built for the pastel green truck, I bought it from Nikojo who is putting in a 2.8 TGV. The valve covers, plenum, and oil pan are white, which doesn't make a lot of sense for this truck. I'll replace all that some time later, but right now I just need to get everything together...
 
#85 ·
Thanks for the good words everyone.

I'm getting an r380 and a 1.2 t-case, and I'm also really curious to see how it all does in the 110. I still need to get the right computer set-up to get everything optimized, but that's a bit down the road.

Plans for the inside are to get rid of all the grey color. The new style door cards are all black and I'll get rid of the carpet and use rubber mats and line-x for the tub, but I'm not going overboard with that stuff. I'm planning on putting in the Melville and Moon canvas seat covers since the canvas should look good with the exterior color. I've got a new-style bulkhead, so its a good time to switch to the new-style dash. I"m thinking about painting the window trims a light tan color so the inside will just be black and tan.

And Tyler - I used the original axles shafts - they're fine.
 
#92 ·
Tyler Wirken said:
I am dying to know how the 4.6 does in a 110. I am really thinking about swapping one in for my 4.0.

So just to clarify were you able to reuse the orig axle shafts or were they to short after the conversion to discs? I promise I will stop asking about the rear axle soon!

Later.

Tyler - to clarify this, you use the same stub axles, so nothing changes in the distance from the diff to the drive flange. Literally all that happen in this conversion is you get hubs that have holes for a disc, and you bolt a caliper bracket to the axle flange instead of the drum brake backing plate. I've got a ton of pix, I'll post them when I can.
 
#96 ·
Here are some from last weekend.

After galvanizing the bulkhead, replacing the outriggers and galvanizing the chassis, the holes were only off by a fraction of an inch, so I was pretty happy. A quick squeeze with a clamp and the bolt slid right through the hole.

There's a shot of the gas tank blasted and coated in the now-ubiquitous zinc-rich primer. I'll shoot it black with Rustoleum before I install it.

And lastly is a pic of the t-supports on. Looks like mine were damaged in shipping, so I'm going to have a little extra hassle installing them, but overall, the body lines are lining up well. We'll see if I remain this luck when its time to adjust the door gaps.

Next step is finish prepping the tub and get it out for paint.
 

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#98 ·
Pretty much. I just wanted to make sure I didn't have any major fit issues before I fully committed to the paint. I didn't test fit the body between fixing the rear crossmember and replacing the bulkhead outriggers, so I kind of skipped a step there since I ran out of time.
 
#100 ·
Don't forget shim, shim, shim don't bend bend bend.

Make sure you put the washed on the big bulkhead bolts in the right places too.

The bulkhead is really the only part that does not have any fudge room (other than washers), the rest you can really make up for the gaps with adjustments and washers/shims.

Ron
 
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