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NAS 110 145/500 Restoration

36K views 239 replies 40 participants last post by  JimC 
#1 ·
Now that there is some progress and plans, I guess its time to start a thread dedicated to this resto.

I bought the truck in late 07: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13597

Some choice quotes from that thread:

WhiteD90: "it looks like it is in decent shape"

Wrong!

JimC: "I've seen worse"

Wrong!

Recent quote from evilfij: "I don't know if I've ever seen worse."

In all fairness, I might have seen worse sitting on ECR's lot, but that question is purely academic.

First, I've pulled the cage and had it powder coated, pix to come.

The most recent progress is freshly blasted and galvanized parts...
 

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#27 ·
now all we need is Ron to pop in and provide some captioning.

cgalpin said:
OMG that's hillarious! Yes exactly!
 
#31 ·
Nice, borat likes. What was that anniversary color in the light duck egg sorta green? (I know duck egg was wot they painted the series blocks but they did a similar greenish color that I know someone here remembers on some heritage 90's)
 
#38 ·
Got some parts back from the paint shop. Paint is over galv, so the parts of the bulkhead that are hidden when the truck is assembled still have that texture showing. One pic shows the difference between the LRC 374 Cornish Cream and an Alpine White truck. Its obviously an "Olde English White" color, but not brownish or yellowy in any way.
 

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#40 ·
Oh no, that's not a chip, its a rivet hole that still has some zinc in it from being galvanized, that'll come right out.

The screens got filled in with galv too, so I'll just cut them out and use earlier screens. The Td5 bulkhead had them welded in, previously they were separate pieces.
 
#41 ·
came across someones personal land rover website. they did the same thing you did with forgetting to remove the screens when they galv'ed their bulkhead. ended up using a blowtorch to heat up the zinc and blowing it off with an air hose pressured below 10 psi i believe.

pretty sure this is the website http://www.rustyrovers.co.uk/

Follow-up Post:

edit
paragraph where he talks about his solution is near the end of page two of the "gronk" rebuild page.
 
#43 ·
bjf said:
Looks good. Is it better to remove the excess zinc in the rivet holes before painting?
Almost certainly, a case of mis-communication between me and the body shop.

I might just try that technique with the torch - It would ahv eto burn off the paint first, but it could work. Can't hurt (too much) to try.
 
#46 ·
Here are some photos from the disassembly process - it will be nice to reassemble and not have the primary tools be the sawzall and angle grinder.

Follow-up Post:

Wow, that is BS how the photo resizer inserted that text in the photos. Oh well, more later.
 

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#50 ·
More stripping - she's down to a bare frame now and I'm waiting on the arrival of some parts. Then its off for blasting and galv. I was waffling on whether or not to galv this chassis, since the britpart pieces will make it somewhat inferior to stock, but after some consideration, I just don't want to half-ass it even if its not the best thing ever.
 

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#51 · (Edited)
Take the long bracket that supports the front of the tub and the middle floor brackets off before you galvanize it and please let us know where you find the brake line and fuel line clips. If when you blast the frame there are no holes it it or really thin spots, the galvy should be fine and almost as good as new.

Ron
 
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