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  #21  
Old February 19th, 2016, 09:34 AM
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Dan Pollock
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Hey Stancey, I've read up on the holly/weber setup, but would love to see whatever you dig up.
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  #22  
Old March 3rd, 2016, 01:41 PM
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steven stancey
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Still trying to look up info. Has anyone done this? Positives? Negatives? Regrets.... It looks like the intake you need made by edelbrock is #2198.
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  #23  
Old March 3rd, 2016, 03:25 PM
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Dan Pollock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stancey View Post
Still trying to look up info. Has anyone done this? Positives? Negatives? Regrets.... It looks like the intake you need made by edelbrock is #2198.
I've long debated with myself whether this all seems simple or beyond my current abilities:

RPi Engineering - V8 Engine - Carburetion and fuel Injection
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  #24  
Old March 24th, 2016, 05:55 PM
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steven stancey
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I've done some research about going from the Stromberg setup to the edelbrock 2198 4 barrel manifold with efi on top. It seems like there are a lot of very simple efi setups on the market and I'm considering moving in that direction. I spoke to someone that said an efi setup along with polishing / porting the cylinder head on a v8 can give you around 260 hp. That is a huge difference. Not sure how accurate that is. There is not that much out there on the web about this upgrade and if it almost doubled the hp, you would think everyone would be talking about it. Is anyone running efi on the v8?
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  #25  
Old March 24th, 2016, 06:03 PM
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Dan Pollock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stancey View Post
I've done some research about going from the Stromberg setup to the edelbrock 2198 4 barrel manifold with efi on top. It seems like there are a lot of very simple efi setups on the market and I'm considering moving in that direction. I spoke to someone that said an efi setup along with polishing / porting the cylinder head on a v8 can give you around 260 hp. That is a huge difference. Not sure how accurate that is. There is not that much out there on the web about this upgrade and if it almost doubled the hp, you would think everyone would be talking about it. Is anyone running efi on the v8?
Eh, it's not SUPER shocking, but my guess is that an EFI and a port and polish is twice as expensive as dropping in a 300tdi, which will be more modern and reliable.
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  #26  
Old March 25th, 2016, 09:00 AM
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steven stancey
1988 LHD Defender 110 V8
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Just playing devils advocate, but by just modifying the v8, you will spend about $2-3k for the efi and whatever it costs to machine the head. I can only assume that the reliability of the v8 would be better with the efi and a top end rebuild. A 300 tdi replacement ($3-5k for most of the bits) gives you a new, used engine. From what I understand, engine mounts would need removed / replaced and most of the drivetrain would need swapped out as well. That's a pretty big gut. At the end of the day, you are still getting much less hp and torque from the diesel, but better mpg I imagine. So, is the diesel swap that much better?
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  #27  
Old March 25th, 2016, 09:19 AM
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Sam Hagey
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So, is the diesel swap that much better?
Go for the LS Swap. I'll help work out the kinks, and then one it's all figured out on your truck, I'll be ready to do mine!
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  #28  
Old March 25th, 2016, 10:16 AM
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Dan Pollock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stancey View Post
Just playing devils advocate, but by just modifying the v8, you will spend about $2-3k for the efi and whatever it costs to machine the head. I can only assume that the reliability of the v8 would be better with the efi and a top end rebuild. A 300 tdi replacement ($3-5k for most of the bits) gives you a new, used engine. From what I understand, engine mounts would need removed / replaced and most of the drivetrain would need swapped out as well. That's a pretty big gut. At the end of the day, you are still getting much less hp and torque from the diesel, but better mpg I imagine. So, is the diesel swap that much better?
You can get the EFI for MUCH less than $2-$3K. I've seen whole setups being given away on here.
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  #29  
Old March 25th, 2016, 10:22 AM
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As to the V8/EFI conversion. I have both EFI V8 and Tdi Land Rovers. The V8's are much more driveable for long trips and everyday use in the USA. Petrol is more readily available and the EFI motors will happily run on 87 octane with a little timing adjustment.

I wouldn't try to put EFI on a low compression carb'ed V8. There are lots of carb setups that work well and more consistently than the Stromberg/SU setups which require careful tuning and setup. That said, I have seen a 4.6 with those carbs that gets double digit MPG and can light up the tires.

Tdi engines are fun on the road when you first get them and make more sense as a swap into trucks that are already diesel or already 4 cylinder, or where somebody just really really wants a diesel.

The Tdi's are infinitely more roadworthy than the old NA 4 cylinder gas and diesel engines but they are still a little slow for US highways.

If you want to go EFI, the parts are readily available from any RRC or early D1. The whole harness and system is an add-on so easy to retrofit. And no need to port and polish. Once you have the heads off, just do the cam, lifters, and timing setup. Port and polish are fine if you want to bring up the top end, but that is extra $$$ that isn't a must-have to do the swap.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #30  
Old March 26th, 2016, 07:46 AM
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steven stancey
1988 LHD Defender 110 V8
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Hey Ren, I couldn't sleep last night, so I was on the forum doing some "research." I saw that you did an a/c system awhile back. How is the cooling capacity of that. I'm contemplating the elite system vs just doing the puma bulkhead. Both similar amounts of money. One requires a whole bunch more work. Does the puma offer that much better cooling?

Also, it seems like you recommend just switching out the carb setup rather than the efi. What did you use? Thanks for the advice...
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  #31  
Old March 28th, 2016, 10:12 PM
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steven stancey
1988 LHD Defender 110 V8
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So I spoke to the machine shop that is doing the machining on my xke engine. He said that he knows the buick engine well and he gave me some suggestions. He said that a port / polish / valve job on the cylinder head is about 800 bucks. He recommended going with EFI from FiTech. He said that they were pretty good and under 1000. He felt like the wiring was really simple to do at home and the LCD readout is on the side of the throttle body, so that you wouldn't have to mount a screen on the dash. He liked that is was really automated and easy to implement. You would need to change the down pipe coming from the exhaust manifold to accommodate the sensor, but all in all, he said there is no reason you couldn't get 1 hp for every cubic inch. so about 215 hp. Anything more and he said you would need to mess with the cams and crank. FYI. I'll keep everyone posted on this.
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  #32  
Old April 13th, 2016, 10:26 AM
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steven stancey
1988 LHD Defender 110 V8
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Hey everyone, plans have changed and I am now in the process of bringing the vehicle to Austin un-painted. I'm still planning on the exact build, but turns out that the painter up in Michigan won't be able to start on the vehicle until after summer and I don't want to wait that long Sooooo...... my question is if anyone knows of any enclosed transport companies I can call. The car runs and drives, but has everything except the driver's seat unbolted off (no windows, door locks, etc...) so Johan and I think it would be best that it makes it's journey in something enclosed. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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  #33  
Old April 13th, 2016, 09:28 PM
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Greg Nielsen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stancey View Post
Hey everyone, plans have changed and I am now in the process of bringing the vehicle to Austin un-painted. I'm still planning on the exact build, but turns out that the painter up in Michigan won't be able to start on the vehicle until after summer and I don't want to wait that long Sooooo...... my question is if anyone knows of any enclosed transport companies I can call. The car runs and drives, but has everything except the driver's seat unbolted off (no windows, door locks, etc...) so Johan and I think it would be best that it makes it's journey in something enclosed. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I can't wait to see it. You ever talk to Eduardo the paint guy?
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  #34  
Old April 19th, 2016, 02:32 PM
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Lincoln Wong
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Not sure if this is the grill you are looking for: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...tml#post732385
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  #35  
Old April 20th, 2016, 11:40 AM
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steven stancey
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I saw that grill, but it looks different than the heritage grill. I'm still a few months out from taking the Landy out b/c it needs to get here first, then painted, interior, etc.... so I have some time. The guy at RN said to hang tight for about 6 months (about 2 months ago) b/c he said nobody has had the chance to make a knockoff of the 2015 heritage grill yet, but he said that they will for sure.
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  #36  
Old April 20th, 2016, 12:01 PM
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steven stancey
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OK.. As I work on getting the 110 shipped here, I am trying to tie up some loose ends as far as ideas go. The Landy is completely stripped on the inside and will be freshly painted. Now is the time to rustproof / waterproof / insulate / sound deaden the cabin and chassis. Here is my plan. Dinitrol the chassis following their protocol (steam, power wash, soap, etc..) This is what I am thinking for the inside. Wurth makes an underbody seal product that I was going to spray the interior doors and maybe the inside chassis. It is supposed to be sound deadening, waterproof, rustproof, etc. I have heard that some people will drill a small hole in the bottom channel of the doors to allow water egress. I have also read and saved some stuff about the modified / improved the door seals. Also read something about wrapping the entire inside of the door in a waterproof sound deadening material. As far as the inside goes, I don't want to do anything that collects water. Once painted and after everything is attached, I plan on putting it through the car wash several times so that I can identify the leaks. It doesn't rain that much out here, but when it does it really comes down. I don't plan on seeing how deep of a river I can ford. I've read that there is no easy way to address egress on the floor considering there is no general low point. The underseal is supposed handle rattles really well, then I was going to put a waterproof insulating layer over that (160 mm butyl typoe of product or as thick as I can make it work). I plan on insulating the whole cabin so that the A/C has a fighting chance down here. Insulating the hood is also on the list. Wow, I just realized that is a lot of stuff. Any tips / suggestions would be helpful. Thanks everyone.
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  #37  
Old April 25th, 2016, 01:03 PM
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Not sure if you have decided on an A/C system, but for what it's worth I spoke with urbanlandcruisers.com and they are currently working on an affordable custom kit. Both LHD and RHD.
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  #38  
Old April 25th, 2016, 04:01 PM
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Not sure if you have decided on an A/C system, but for what it's worth I spoke with urbanlandcruisers.com and they are currently working on an affordable custom kit. Both LHD and RHD.
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  #39  
Old April 25th, 2016, 04:04 PM
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Jeff B
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Not sure if you have decided on an A/C system, but for what it's worth I spoke with urbanlandcruisers.com and they are currently working on an affordable custom kit. Both LHD and RHD.

ummm..... don't pay a deposit and make sure and pick it up in person!

disclaimer: I've bought several parts from ULC and everything was shipped quickly.


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  #40  
Old April 26th, 2016, 11:27 AM
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steven stancey
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I called Urban Outfitters yesterday. I also spoke to Nostalgic air and another company in the UK called Cool Air Logan. I can get the complete system from cool air logan (including all of the pulley, brackets, and the rear armrest console) for $3000 plus shipping. It looks just like the elite system. Urban outfitters is about $2000 for just the front. I know he is not using the elite evaporator / blower, but I'm not sure what he is using. Nostalgic air makes a full length dash one that fits the LHD pretty well and blows well, or they make a 16" wide unit to put in the middle. They were telling me that the smaller unit actually pushes the same amt of air out as the larger unit and the vents are much better b/c they can be directed all over the place (they are on a swivel instead of traditional vents) Looks like I can get the front part of the Nostalgic air system (either the long or short one) with all of the fixings for about $1000. Tough decision. Right now I am leading towards the nostalgic air system simply on cost and the fact that it is made in the US, so I would have some parts support. At the end of the day, if I don't like how it looks, I can just track down a different evaporator and everything will already be plumbed in. Comments??
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