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  #1  
Old May 20th, 2012, 11:24 PM
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bstraw
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Byron Straw
1994 POE/ST
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Mufasa

So I am d-90 less for a bit so I decided to do a psudo frame up resto on a 1974 Series III (I named her Mufasa due to the large lion etched into the back door glass). I say psudo because I am not spending 10's of thousands of dollars...... just fixing what is bad, what I think is the correct way, and putting her back on the road. The frame was shot, and I mean SHOT (I will post pics of what the previous owner told me that the frame was repairable). After having a small coronary getting prices + shipping on a new frame I decided that I am just going to get a used one and not spend a ton of money to make it "perfect" but make it right. I bought a great used frame and put a great used rear x-member one her. I was going to have the frame sand blasted and then paint it with POR-15 but why spend 200 on sand blasting when you can grind off all of the old, probably lead paint, after a few weeks of work (next time I will get the dam thing sand blasted). At this point I just took the "new" frame to the car wash to get the remaining oil and grease off of it and am going to hang it back up and POR-15 it after proper prep, or I am going with a industrial epoxy primer and a satin black finish on the frame, not sure yet. I have great used springs on the rear and brand new NOS springs on the front. I replaced all of the frame spring bushings, a pain in the ass job but I think worth it. After I get the bare frame painted I have all of the following parts to put on. Have all new hard and soft brake lines, all new shocks and bushings, new exhaust system, new check straps, new steering box, new track rod ends, new wheel cylinders and brakes shoes, and turned drums. The bulkhead is solid except for the foot wells and kick panels so I ordered the replacements from rovers north and will attack that when I get there. I will pull the motor apart and go through it and replace whatever is necessary, and refresh the usual i.e. timing chain, rings, rear main, front main, etc. etc. My dad is going to help with the body work (he is a body man from PA, and man O man there is A LOT of prep in body work!!!!!!!) and put a fresh coat of paint on her. Overall I think it will turn out good without spending a ton of money, and in the end will have a nice usable rover. Not sure if I will go through the transmission yet or not, it did shift a little funny when I drove it, really hard to ger into 3rd and 4th, but never popped out once there. Some pics of the tear down. The last few are the ones are of the "new" frame. Enjoy!!!
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  #2  
Old May 20th, 2012, 11:56 PM
giftshopduane
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Chris luciano
72 Series 3 88"
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Excellent... starting stripping mine today. I am more or less doing the exact same thing with the exception of the bodywork, I lucked out in that the parts truck that came with mine has and outstanding body. Keep us posted on how its going, have you worked out a budget yet! I'd be interested in what you've worked out, minus the engine work and paint.

C
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  #3  
Old May 25th, 2012, 12:36 AM
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bstraw
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Byron Straw
1994 POE/ST
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After weeks of prep work I finally got the frame in epoxy primer!!!! I sprayed it and I am sure the neighbors are either really mad or really high due to the fumes. Tomorrow comes the top coat with a satin black high quality UV resistant tractor paint. And I just went back outside and touched-up the spots I missed.
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  #4  
Old May 25th, 2012, 01:59 PM
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Make sure to treat the inside too! They go bad inside out a lot of the time especially if you offroad and get mud in there.
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  #5  
Old May 25th, 2012, 09:08 PM
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Byron Straw
1994 POE/ST
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I am going to treat the inside as well after the paint is fully fully cured. I was afraid to do that before I painted it because I would have been drunk and gotten oil or waxall everywhere and then the paint would have never stuck. I all ready did the removable x-member before I painted it, I even made it a stealth, hidden super secret x-member so you can not tell from the bottom, and I am sure Elliot will be happy as well as myself after I get everything back together and take it for the first drive and the 2nd gear syncro goes out, ha! I just put the topcoat on the frame and I have to say........it is black! It has a crap ton of runs in it, but it is black. Looks pretty good to me, at least I know it will be protected and I did it right even though it took me countless hours of prep. Now onto cleaning the front and rear difs., painting those and the springs and I will have a clean freshly painted rolling chassis!!!!
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  #6  
Old May 27th, 2012, 05:55 PM
JBinAlabama
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Series 2A ..more parts on the way
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Awesome!
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  #7  
Old May 27th, 2012, 11:29 PM
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Byron Straw
1994 POE/ST
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Thanks John. I was digging through some things and Have a envelope to send you with Bama's VIN plate sent from England! Give me a call or text sometime as I have forgotten your address.
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  #8  
Old May 29th, 2012, 12:41 PM
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Thanks Byron!
I shot you a text.

That Chassis work takes time!
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  #9  
Old July 31st, 2012, 11:00 PM
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Byron Straw
1994 POE/ST
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And after weeks and weeks of part time work on the bulkhead........it is finally done! Not perfect, but not bad. I went a little overboard on the welding and the seam sealer. 2 coats of epoxy primer and 2 coats of color.
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  #10  
Old August 1st, 2012, 02:29 AM
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aka rover
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ed angel
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Looks great I like to see a budget build with quality in mind. It's going to be a great looking daily driver when your done and you won't have so much cash into it that you can't use it as it was intended.
Keep up the great work

Ed
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  #11  
Old August 1st, 2012, 04:26 AM
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Jason Lavender
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TOTALLY off topic here, but what brand engine hoist did you use here?
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...8&d=1337569697

I like that it was big enough to handle the entire tub, and due to a recent "incident" with my Series she will be torn down to bare chassis (and probably galvy swap) in the future so will probably be in the market for a purchase like this.
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  #12  
Old August 1st, 2012, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
I like that it was big enough to handle the entire tub, and due to a recent "incident" with my Series she will be torn down to bare chassis (and probably galvy swap) in the future so will probably be in the market for a purchase like this.
Did I miss something? What did you do?
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  #13  
Old August 1st, 2012, 09:25 AM
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Ed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
TOTALLY off topic here, but what brand engine hoist did you use here?
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...8&d=1337569697
Looks like a Harbor Freight 2 ton to me.
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  #14  
Old August 1st, 2012, 10:33 AM
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Spray waxoyl in the top and the pillars before you forget.
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  #15  
Old August 1st, 2012, 11:37 AM
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Byron Straw
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Yep, it is a Harbor Freight 2 ton. For something I do not use everyday, it works great. Waxoyl on order this week!
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  #16  
Old October 2nd, 2012, 12:26 AM
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Engine done!

A few things I did off the top of my head:
-NOS .20 over pistons, rings, bearings, etc.
-All new gaskets
-Head job
-Everything blasted and painted (pain in the ass not to do the whole thing at once but I like the way the bolts are not painted over, except for the head bolts and tappet bolts).
-New rear main seal and seal holder halves
-New front main seal
-New guts for the dizzy
-Rebuilt Rochester with proper jetting (hopefully)
-New spark plugs
-2.5 cam
-New motor mounts
-New oil filler cap
-New sticker for the breather (best .32 cents I have ever spent)
-New radiator hoses and clamps
-New exhaust manifold studs, with proper brass nuts and washers (yes the old ones broke and yes, this was a pain in the butt that took a crap ton of time but worth it)


Just to name a few. First ones are what I started with the rest are what I ended up with.

Should go to it's resting place this weekend. Enjoy.
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  #17  
Old October 2nd, 2012, 12:35 AM
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Nice! Thats the cleanest that motor will ever be! Mine has a similar list of upgrades, and its got a nice sheen of oil on it too.
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  #18  
Old October 3rd, 2012, 08:10 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Byron that looks really good.

Looking at your picture reminded me of something. Is the heater control valve positioned in a stock way? I ask because mine looks just like that, but at least on my truck this orientation means the knob is pulled out in the off/closed position, and pushed in when on/open. Is yours the same way? It seems it should be the opposite.

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  #19  
Old October 6th, 2012, 12:45 PM
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Byron Straw
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Thanks Charles-

Not sure if that is stock, but the way it came from the PO. My levers work correctly though. If you want some pics of how my cables are run I can do that when I put them back on.
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  #20  
Old October 6th, 2012, 03:47 PM
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Charles Galpin
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That would be nice thanks. Although I don't think mine do anything but push/pull on the cable - maybe they make two versions of the valve, with the same action being the opposite (open/closed). On mine, with the cable pushing furthest towards the front the valve is open, towards the firewall, closed.
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