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  #161  
Old March 11th, 2014, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Thanks for that - both of them are installed incorrectly then. I will move them both 90 deg.
Also note that the metal mount on the frame side are adjustable to account for variances in the frame mounts and bulkhead.
You might have to adjust the side to side engine position when the build up is complete.
There should be a minimum of 3/8" between the oil filter housing and upper bulkhead foot well.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #162  
Old March 19th, 2014, 09:04 AM
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Got the starter in. It needs the adapter plate to fit correctly as I soon found out. Goes together like butter when all the pieces are used.

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Also got my shorty R380 in from the guys down in ATL. Had the bell housing mocked on before the trailer pulled out of the street.

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I was a little puzzled on how the flywheel worked and went together. After some web searching and looking at Robert's pics at the beginning of the thread I put together that the stock flywheel is 2 pieces. It has a ring that needs to be popped off. I stuck it in the freezer last night and heated it a bunch this morning. A little hammering going around the edge with a flat nose punch and it came off.

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I wire brushed the ring - then heated that on its own and it slipped right on RD's flywheel. I needed to hammer the last couple of mm down flush but wasn't bad. Looks really trick all done and a shame it will be covered up. I will install it later / just need the M10x1 tap to come in today (I buggered some threads a but on one of the holes).

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Parts are coming in from Mercedes Source today so I hope to install some pieces onto the motor tomorrow. I am really itching to fire it up and hoping I did everything correctly.
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  #163  
Old March 19th, 2014, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Got the starter in. It needs the adapter plate to fit correctly as I soon found out. Goes together like butter when all the pieces are used.
The second generation kits don't use the starter adapter.
Those just bolt directly to a profiled boss that is made into the engine backing plate.
I won't go into all the details, but Mean Green could never supply me with a proper custom starter and after 14 months of nothing from them including paying for 2 starters and only getting 1, I went a different route.

Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
I wire brushed the ring - then heated that on its own and it slipped right on RD's flywheel. I needed to hammer the last couple of mm down flush but wasn't bad. Looks really trick all done and a shame it will be covered up. I will install it later / just need the M10x1 tap to come in today (I buggered some threads a but on one of the holes).
I take the ring gear off the same way you do.
To install, I put the custom flywheel in the freezer and heat the ring gear to 300 deg F in the oven.
Then drop the warm ring gear home on the cold flywheel.
This way it falls in place without any persuasion.
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RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #164  
Old March 26th, 2014, 01:03 PM
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Working a little on it today.

Read a little about the EGR delete. And it seems like a worthwhile move.

First pic is the EGR valves which have a tendency to stick from what I've read.

Pic #2 - is the EGR valve and piping taken out. Along with some of the coolant piping to replace that rotten hose piece.

Pic #3 - the inside of the plenum with all the build up I guess from a stuck EGR valve.

There isn't much to blocking things up but I have so many little project that it seemed easier to just buy this: http://www.mercedesdiesel4x4.com/product_p/a-mb109.htm

MercedesDiesel4x4 also has a plug and play oil cooler kit. I might get that eventually. Again, could be cheaper to make my own but I have a lot of work already.

Found this build thread when I was searching OM617 info:

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showth...s-goes-!/page2

I like how clean it looks with the lack of items.

Question to Robert or any other 617 wizards: how much of the vacuum line system can be removed?
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  #165  
Old March 26th, 2014, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Question to Robert: how much of the vacuum line system can be removed?
In your case regarding the EGR vacuum line, all of it.

You can tap and plug the exhaust manifold with a pipe plug or if you send it to me, I can have it welded by a shop that can weld cast
iron.

Didn't geta reply on the last email from you regarding the new transmission mounts and kit shipping.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #166  
Old March 26th, 2014, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
In your case regarding the EGR vacuum line, all of it. You can tap and plug the exhaust manifold with a pipe plug or if you send it to me, I can have it welded by a shop that can weld cast iron. Didn't geta reply on the last email from you regarding the new transmission mounts and kit shipping.
Just sent you an email - I missed one of them.

Thanks for info on EGR. I think that kit has piece to cover the exhaust manifold. Would love to take you up on that weld offer but save that for the next motor/build.
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  #167  
Old March 30th, 2014, 05:23 PM
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I also got these items in recently:

Rotella T6 - 5W-40 - it seemed people on the Merc boards ran this or the Mobil 1 truck diesel stuff. This was a little cheaper and people on here have had good experience with Rotella.

Mercedes Shop Manual - got it off ebay for $40 or so. There is another one but I am not sure it includes the turbo motors.
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  #168  
Old March 30th, 2014, 05:26 PM
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I am double posting some items from my build thread. I meant to post here originally but messed up.


I got some items done this weekend.

Pic 1 - EGR plate on intake manifold
Pic 2 - EGR plate on exhaust manifold. This needed a little playing around with. I used cooper gasket seal on both.
Pic 3 - pic of thermostat - I had some polish and a cloth wheel and did a couple of pieces up. It was more of a PITA to get the grease/grim off than to polish. I think paint would have been more work. Hope it stays like this for a little while. I also got a new rubber hose which definitely needed to be done.
Pic 4 - backside of thermostat
Pic 5 - front of the motor right now.
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  #169  
Old April 7th, 2014, 07:30 PM
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Catch Can & Hot/Cold Air Intake

Came across this and wanted to bookmark it for the future:


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ntake-how.html


I am not totally sure how I am going to handle air intake and the oil catch.
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  #170  
Old April 8th, 2014, 11:22 AM
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Add-on to the air intake link I posted yesterday. Intake clamps and tube site:

http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/mer...vc?Screen=SFNT
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  #171  
Old August 5th, 2014, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormer View Post
Very interesting.

Which OM617 version are you using? The later ones had quite a bit more horsepower than the early ones.
Mine came out of a 1985 300D.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #172  
Old August 11th, 2014, 03:34 PM
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I have been lacking on this but should be jumping in with some work over the next few weeks. I would love to get it test running soon.

Very minor but I got the turbo drain done. I took off the drain, cut, wire wheeled it and painted with the engine paint I used on the block. I got some 3/4" Flex Fab silicone hose from Napa (- part number-5526-075) and stainless clamps.

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My next steps are to get the oil cooler lines built. I have to weld some bungs to the stock Merc lines and order an adapter from the 200tdi radiator so I can run AN lines.
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  #173  
Old August 11th, 2014, 06:28 PM
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Sum bitch - don't think that heater hose is oil compliant. Should have researched it before I cut and installed but figured the guy at Napa knew what was up when I brought the parts in and said I need a turbo oil drain.... I will see what McMaster has.
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  #174  
Old August 11th, 2014, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Sum bitch - don't think that heater hose is oil compliant. Should have researched it before I cut and installed but figured the guy at Napa knew what was up when I brought the parts in and said I need a turbo oil drain.... I will see what McMaster has.
I used low pressure hydraulic hose.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #175  
Old August 11th, 2014, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
I used low pressure hydraulic hose.
Thanks - will swap out soon before it gets more items out in and harder to access.
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  #176  
Old August 12th, 2014, 04:42 AM
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If it is silicone hose it will be good.
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  #177  
Old August 12th, 2014, 09:22 AM
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Interesting threads...

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/...m-MW-to-M-pump

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/...ump-experiment

I have been talking to dieselmeken about getting an M-pump with 6 or 6.5 mm "elements", but he didn't have them last time we spoke.
With the proper boost and inlet manifold/intercooler 160 to 180 HP should be reality.
The drifters are getting twice these amounts in Sweden and Finland.
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RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #178  
Old August 12th, 2014, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
If it is silicone hose it will be good.
It is. I would think there isn't much oil coming thru and would agree with you but just in case I ordered a foot of oil/fuel hose. I will give specs when I get a chance.
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  #179  
Old August 12th, 2014, 12:36 PM
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What I mean is silicone is the BEST hose material you could use for oil. You are not going to find something better. Why do you think it is not suitable?
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  #180  
Old August 12th, 2014, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
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What I mean is silicone is the BEST hose material you could use for oil. You are not going to find something better. Why do you think it is not suitable?
I haven't been able to find anything that gives this hose the OK for oil use. Just that is it resistant to coolant additives. Seems like the outside blue cover is silicone and the inside red is nylon fiber.

It also says it meets SAE J20 R3 Class A and TMC RP303B Class I Grade II. But I haven't been able to find a sheet for them.

It is a low risk area so I could just keep an eye on it for leaks. I'm sure I will have some to take care of as things move along.

------ Follow up post added August 12th, 2014 03:33 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Interesting threads...

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/...m-MW-to-M-pump

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/...ump-experiment

I have been talking to dieselmeken about getting an M-pump with 6 or 6.5 mm "elements", but he didn't have them last time we spoke.
With the proper boost and inlet manifold/intercooler 160 to 180 HP should be reality.
The drifters are getting twice these amounts in Sweden and Finland.
Hopefully by the time I get things running and have some funds back I'll be able to afford one of DieselMeken's IP's. I'll be very interested to see what you think of it when you get it.
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