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  #1  
Old March 9th, 2015, 06:48 PM
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Brent McDonald
1988 LHD 110 SW
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Interior questions

I am considering having the local auto upholstery place do a custom set of carpets for my 110. Before doing so I was interested if any of you have ever rhino lined / rubber lined the inside of your defenders. How much did it cost and how did it turn out? Mine is currently completely covered in dyno matting and would be painted on over the dyno matting.
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  #2  
Old March 11th, 2015, 02:28 AM
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Buddy of mine & I did something slightly similar in my restoration (to the chagrin of some members here). It seems rhinoliner is like a 4 letter world in this community, which I didn't know/understand before, and may explain the paucity of responses, but I think when used sparingly on heavy traffic areas it has a role. I think...
Anyway, I used some to touch up the broken off plastic console pieces in the dash, and then in the back after dynamatting every square inch, we created some custom cabinetry and shelving which has rhinolining on it. I found some stuff on Amazon which is supposedly the same stuff just in a smaller quantity and it was <$100 for a can (http://www.amazon.com/Herculiner-HCL.../dp/B0002TDUW4) I didn't put any on the truck body panel and just on the plastic/fiberglass pieces to allow a little more resilience and strength.

It should be pretty easy to do yourself. I can't imagine spending more than $200 for supplies.
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  #3  
Old March 12th, 2015, 09:31 AM
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Brent McDonald
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well, that would explain it. My biggest question then would be given how effective these trucks are at "keeping the outside in" and constantly leaking water somewhere how do people keep the carpets from being permanently damp?
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Old March 12th, 2015, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brentflyfish View Post
well, that would explain it. My biggest question then would be given how effective these trucks are at "keeping the outside in" and constantly leaking water somewhere how do people keep the carpets from being permanently damp?
You can't keep them from leaking, simply put. Really, they are put together with nuts, bolts & washers versus seam welding. You can assist, and I have seen it done on one truck I restored, by using rubber gasket like stuff on every panel, then reassembling and tightening down nuts&bolts etc...but it is an effort in futility to try and keep water out of a Defender.
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Old March 12th, 2015, 09:46 AM
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Skinny Pete
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Carpets? In a Defender? Hahahahahaha ROFLMAO


Quote:
Originally Posted by Brentflyfish View Post
well, that would explain it. My biggest question then would be given how effective these trucks are at "keeping the outside in" and constantly leaking water somewhere how do people keep the carpets from being permanently damp?
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #6  
Old March 12th, 2015, 09:51 AM
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HD rubber mats can replace carpeting as a nice alternative. They look good and protect the paintwork and can be removed and cleaned as needed.

I just redid the interior on my D110 and decided against putting carpet back in for the reason you mentioned - these trucks will leak and the carpet will hold that water so you need to plan accordingly. Other people gave me that same advice and talked me out of putting carpet back in.

What I may do is get a nicer piece of carpet made for the 2nd row and rear section (I have the HD rubber mats in the front and over the seat box area) which is removable and finished on the edges (like an area rug would be) and use that for family trips and such. But it would have to be easily removable for when things get wet inside as I am sure that will happen from skiing or the beach or from leaking which is bound to happen.

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  #7  
Old March 12th, 2015, 09:56 AM
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Well, at least in a hard top, I think it's definitely possible to keep the rain out and the interior completely dry - even in a pretty heavy deluge. Maybe someone else can talk about a soft top.

However, water coming from the bottom of the truck (say, if you're fording deep water) will come in without hesitation.

I'm not sure what Dave is laughing about, as I've seen carpet sets in trucks (blaughlin's comes to mind...and his truck is especially nice.) Clay (1of40) also has carpet...there are others I'm sure.

Rhinolining and other bedliner is terrible for only one reason: It's impossible to remove.
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  #8  
Old March 12th, 2015, 10:21 AM
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You know rereading your OP I see you were thinking rhino lining under carpeting would help water proof. Right?
That's not going to work.
There are definitely ways to keep a SW waterproof (at least from the top). There's a LR file on stopping water ingress for starters that can help seal common areas. If you look at every seam from your axle up and over seal it with silicone or some other sealant you'll be close. Make sure you check all the common leak spots around windows, doors, etc. Rhino lining is good to resist wear and tear damage to the component it is placed on, not really to make something waterproof (maybe resistant) but it doesn't stop leaks if you have huge gaps between panels, etc. I don't use it on my truck directly. Just the plastic pieces inside.
There are 10000's of D's with carpet. New D's are made to resist water ingress. NAS D110 came with carpet as I believe later DEFENDER 90 SWs as well.
I hate carpets personally, even in my other vehicles I use Weathertech instead. Between dogs, kids and my rough and tumble life, carpet is not practical for me.
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  #9  
Old March 14th, 2015, 02:22 PM
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Brent McDonald
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I am very open to putting in the rubber matting. My problem is that the entire inside of my truck has dynomat from the person I got it from. I can't stand looking at that and need to cover it. The current carpet sets don't do nearly enough to cover so I am not sure what my options are.
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  #10  
Old March 14th, 2015, 02:32 PM
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Carpet is a bad idea because when it gets wet (and it will get wet) it keeps the moisture in and in contact with things that rust. Rubber is the way to go as it can be removed if it gets damp and it tends to dry easier. Rhino makes removing panels more difficult and cannot be removed should you do a refit. If you're getting buried in the truck then who cares go for it
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  #11  
Old March 14th, 2015, 03:01 PM
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Interior questions

Post a pic so we can see the space your covering. I have dynamatted my entire truck but I have the load space mat that covers everything from floor to wheel arches. In the front the rubber mats cover everything plus I have the exmoor acoustic mat up front. So really there are plenty of rubber options to put over the dynamatting from front to the very back
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  #12  
Old March 15th, 2015, 09:08 AM
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Brent McDonald
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Here are a few pics. I was thinking a custom set of marine grade carpets in black or dark grey would be an option that is less than the OEM rubber that covers everything up front. I am also about to do an auto conversion so would need a set that fits the automatics rather than manual.
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  #13  
Old March 15th, 2015, 09:09 AM
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Brent McDonald
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Here is another.
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  #14  
Old March 15th, 2015, 10:14 AM
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Joe
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Plastidip

If it helps. I plastidipped my interior. Kinda compromise to rhino line as you can peel it off to remove panels. It has held up well. If I did it over again I'd put a little wore thickness on the kick panel by the accelerator as that shows wear but otherwise I've been happy.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...box-47625.html
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