I didn't want a 1984 110 restoration but I got one - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 18th, 2012, 04:12 PM
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Jay S
96 D1 TReK
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I didn't want a 1984 110 restoration but I got one

So after owning a 1995 D-90 for 2 years we as a family had outgrown it - we bought a 1964 Sankey trailer and fixed it up to pull the cooler camping stuck a roof top tent on it and traveled to Anza Borrego several times, to Escalante, UT and a few of the local mountains and camping here and there

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...eferrerid=5811

But we couldn't bring our 95 pound lab and the kids always looked crammed in the back of the 90 - Im not sure who wanted the 110 more me or them

So we sold our 90 that was in great shape - no issues what so ever and after months of waiting it was sold to a guy in CO - never heard back from him if he made the 2 day drive back to CO -

After looking at options for a 110 if was slim picking - if we wanted a 110 we would either have to pay through the nose for a NAS 93 110 or get a import - I went with the later since I was working with the 25.5 thousand budget from the sale of my other truck

So I bought a 1984 ROW 110 from another board member - I knew it had some rust but budget wise it fit the bill -

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...eferrerid=5811

Now as I dig into it a little after a little over a month of ownership I am scratching my head as what to do with it

I am replacing the rear spring seats as they are swiss cheese - but the frame has a bunch of patches and I feel that im staring a restoration in the face - sort of a stare down

What would you guys do as I dont want to put more into it then its going to be worth - we want a reliable camping rig in the end

Here is my current list of things I was going to tackle

1. Recover/Reinstall the headliner
2. New seat foams and maybe retrim kits and replace the rear row with highback seats
3. Mudd Dash kit (DONE)
4. Radio - speakers - cig lighter etc
5. Rear interior lighting
6. Dyno mat the floor
7. Rock Sliders
8. New springs and shocks - car sits low on the right
9. Winch bumper/winch/brush bar (Purchased and just waiting to get it here)
10. A/C (wife requirement)
11. LHD conversion? (raises value or not?)
12. SD Roll cage (L148)
13. address the cooling system as temp seems to fluctuate a little from half to three quarters
14. repair all 4 door frame
15. t posts need to go

any local guys want to lend some hands?

funny comment by my 7 year old daughter about either truck is -
Q: Ella you like the green truck or the blue one better?
A: I hate the flaps on the blue truck so I liked the green one better!

Flaps - we have bigger issues here then mud flaps!
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  #2  
Old January 18th, 2012, 04:14 PM
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Jay S
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here is the rear spring seats -

have new britparts going in and frame being addressed
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  #3  
Old January 18th, 2012, 04:31 PM
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thomas
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If I was local I would help out. Good Luck. It is amazing what waxoyl can do....
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  #4  
Old January 18th, 2012, 04:41 PM
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shayne young
89,93 & 95 camel trophy 110s 06 130
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Had pretty much the same problems you do...Land Rover problems are like looking at icebergs....what you initially see is only the tip of it...ya gotta dive deeper to see the true awe inspiring majesty...LOL.. now take a deep breath and dive in..its worth it in the end..
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  #5  
Old January 18th, 2012, 04:44 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I don't think anyone can help you answer the question without seeing the rest of the frame. What else needs patching?

If you are doing the repairs yourself and they are not too extensive I say patch away and live with it. Once you have gotten some use out of it, you will know if you want to do more with it or sell and go a different route, or even just live with it.

If you are paying someone else to patch, it could get expensive fast, but everything I just said still applies
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  #6  
Old January 18th, 2012, 04:57 PM
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Ian Gregory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
It is amazing what waxoyl can Hide....
Fixed it for ya...
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  #7  
Old January 18th, 2012, 05:37 PM
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Jeff Payne
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Mine looked similar to yours. I put a plate all the way across that section of the frame and the welded the perch to it.
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  #8  
Old January 18th, 2012, 05:37 PM
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jeroen
1997 300 TDI 110
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Do you want a show car or a useable camping rig? Just patch it up and enjoy it. Work slowly a thing at the time. Just drive it. When you kids are old enough swap it to a galvanized frame. Most 110 from that year will have the same problems.
I have not seen a mint mid 80 from the UK.... at all, that has not been restored yet.

Drive it and after your camping trip you know what to do!
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  #9  
Old January 18th, 2012, 08:05 PM
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Chris
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Based on this photo from your link it appears that this replacement rear x-member has already had repairs (see the scuffed areas where the frame rails meet the rear x-mem). So if a replaced area of the chassis has already needed to be repaired I think you will possibly be chasing rust on the rest of the truck. As long as you do it yourself its not expensive just takes time.

Rust weighs heavy on my mind so I eliminated the anxiety. One truck is completly galvanised and the other has never seen rain, snow or mud. Helps me to sleep at night.
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  #10  
Old January 18th, 2012, 10:45 PM
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I would do a frame if you can do it yourself. If not, patch away, but again, do it yourself. It takes a lot to make them unsafe and it is pretty easy to fix them, but difficult to fix them pretty.

I would budget a frame and t-pieces, but based on the pics, it does not look so bad as I would consider it terminal. It also looks like the rust is confined to the back of the frame (which is typical) so a patch job and some fresh waxoyl should get your through a lot of years in california where it won't get much worse away from the coast. They sell a crossmember that includes the spring perches and it is not that much more money than a normal one. Probably what I would do. Weld it in and plate the joints. Weekend's worth of work.

The other point I would make is that (and mike at ECR will call me out on this because I don't spend as much time alligning the doors as he does), but the t-pieces are a half day job to remove and replace and, if you galvanize them, they don't need paint and after a year the galvy will match the duller old stuff. Adds lots of value. AC I would wait until you decide to go LHD. If you are doing an LHD conversion, you ought to do the frame and galvanize the bulkhead while you are at it.
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  #11  
Old January 18th, 2012, 11:00 PM
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Jay S
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Thanks everyone for the words of encouragement - I know that over time this will be a great car for my family - definitely not looking for a show car - I actually like the outside and age to the paint etc

I knew it had rust but I guess I am spoiled living in CA and my idea of rust is quite different then the UK view of rust

I realize a new frame would be great but not in the budget right now - Im going to patch what I can now and enjoy the truck but keep an eye on the frame

What happens if you get a new frame with the vin stamped on it? do you get to put the vin on the new frame?
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  #12  
Old January 19th, 2012, 12:32 AM
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Sam
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I feel your pain. I knew once I got mine that I wouldn't be happy till I stripped it all the way down to the frame and had it sandblasted before I did my welding repairs. Talk about rust! Would have loved to got a new galvy frame but, like you, it's not in the current budget. I plan on keeping mine for many years. The new frame is scheduled for 2015.
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  #13  
Old January 19th, 2012, 04:53 PM
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Jay S
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here is the patch my fabricator put in

I think I am going to need to learn how to weld
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  #14  
Old January 19th, 2012, 05:05 PM
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Amazingly nice looking work.
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  #15  
Old January 19th, 2012, 05:40 PM
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Jay S
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Newest piece of metal on the truck!
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  #16  
Old January 19th, 2012, 05:52 PM
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Here
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awesome its a labor of love, and you'll drink lots of post work beers.
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  #17  
Old January 24th, 2012, 02:57 PM
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Mike Hammond
110 200Tdi and a 2005 Scorpa SY250
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My '84 had numerous holes in the rear 1/4 of the chassis, decided to replace due to the difficulty of welding across the top of the frame with the body on. If you're taking the body off to repair the chassis my thought was you may as well chuck a new chassis under there.
The D-90 Source > Projects & Build-up's > Truck Build-up's & Restores
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  #18  
Old January 25th, 2012, 05:32 PM
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Mike Hammond
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here's the proper link to the thread.
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ead.php?t=3724
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Diesels.....great when they're going and so easy to work on.
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  #19  
Old January 30th, 2012, 12:33 PM
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Jay S
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water pump, new thermostat, radiator hoses going on today - sending out the radiator to be looked over

sliders and skid this week and meeting my previous owner in anza borrego next weekend to pick up the bumper brushguard
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  #20  
Old January 30th, 2012, 02:32 PM
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Bill Adams
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1. Recover/Reinstall the headliner
This is probably best done as part of a comprehensive roof refurb. You will have greater luck and ease with the top off on sawbucks than with it in place and working overhead. With the top at safe working level you can easily redo all the rubber seals as well.
When you take the liner out you will find that you might want to add sound deadening matting to the roof as well as new insulation. This will reduce the banging in your head while you drive...oh wait that's the kids and the dog...
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