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  #1  
Old November 20th, 2009, 05:24 PM
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Goat surgery

It's time to stop putting off the inevitable and repair my bulkhead this winter. I have some galvanizing to do, bumper and sliders, some brake lines to replace, a timing belt to change, relocate my ARB compressor and fix the oil spewing issue, run relays for my headlights and a paintjob from yellow to NATO Light Stone. Basically going through the truck to have it ready for the next 10 years of use. Started on the sliders today and amazingly after 12 winters in the NE, got the passenger side off pretty quickly, thank God ECR used plenty of anti-seize on that bulkhead bolt and good quality fasterners. My bulkhead is worse than I thought. I'll post as I get through it, as much for my own entertainment as anyone elses.
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'73 SeriesIII coiler,"The Goat", Daihatsu 2.8TD,Santana,Ashcroft,ARB's,etc., now SOLD
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  #2  
Old November 21st, 2009, 12:53 PM
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Step 1

Remove the winch and strip the bumper and sliders to get sandblasted and then off to the galvanizer.
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  #3  
Old November 21st, 2009, 03:40 PM
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Kevin if you ever need a hand with anything let me know...

btw, where are bringing your stuff for sand blasting and galvanzing? I have a bunch of stuff to get done soon as well..
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  #4  
Old November 21st, 2009, 05:00 PM
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I'll be getting the galvi done at Hubbell Galvanizing. They are out near Utica and do good work. I will be getting my stuff galvied and powdercoated black. I'll barely be making the minimun so you can throw your stuff in with mine, it just has to be paint free, the pickling takes care of any surface rust. PM me, I'll be making the trip soon. I'm going to see if a kid in my neighboorhood can do the sandblasting, he's a hot rodder and has a cabinet.
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  #5  
Old November 21st, 2009, 06:39 PM
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Keep the yellow man!

So does powercoat stick to galvy ok? I thought at least for paint you have to re-sandbalst them to get the paint to stick after galvanizing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY
I'm going to see if a kid in my neighboorhood can do the sandblasting, he's a hot rodder and has a cabinet.
Damn I need one of these!
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  #6  
Old November 21st, 2009, 07:49 PM
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They air dry the galvy and then hand sand it before doing the PC. I had a Rockware bumper done before by them and it was the best powdercoat I have ever seen, thick and plasticky, not thin and brittle like most.
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  #7  
Old November 21st, 2009, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY
They air dry the galvy and then hand sand it before doing the PC. I had a Rockware bumper done before by them and it was the best powdercoat I have ever seen, thick and plasticky, not thin and brittle like most.
Is this all done at Hubbell?
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  #8  
Old November 21st, 2009, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY
They air dry the galvy and then hand sand it before doing the PC. I had a Rockware bumper done before by them and it was the best powdercoat I have ever seen, thick and plasticky, not thin and brittle like most.
You may want to get it zinc dipped instead of galvanized. I was under impression the adhesion is much better for powdercoat with zinc versus galvanized. I just went through something similar.
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  #9  
Old November 21st, 2009, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikojo
You may want to get it zinc dipped instead of galvanized. I was under impression the adhesion is much better for powdercoat with zinc versus galvanized. I just went through something similar.
Yes all done at once at hubbbell. Zinc dipping IS galvanizing. aDrunk right now.
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  #10  
Old November 22nd, 2009, 12:26 AM
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That's true but there are various forms of it. Most of the exposed pieces I have have been galvanized but the pieces that were powder coated were galvanized in a different way which they referred to as "zinc priming". Not pretending to know everything about it except to say there are various forms of galvanizing and some of them are not the best for powder coating.

Some of it has to do with "when" the powder coating is done, ie within 48 hours. And whether or not the hot-dip is quenched (don't want to do that).

Sounds like you've already figured it out but would love to hear more about it from others who know about this stuff.
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  #11  
Old November 22nd, 2009, 01:11 AM
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Rover gods don't like it when you paint (or powdercoat) their chrome. Why not dip the bulkhead too and leave it all galvy. It would look nice with the light tan color.
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  #12  
Old November 22nd, 2009, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Rover gods don't like it when you paint (or powdercoat) their chrome. Why not dip the bulkhead too and leave it all galvy. It would look nice with the light tan color.
Thats sick, you and I are starting to think alike.
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  #13  
Old November 22nd, 2009, 11:26 AM
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Here is a link to the process.

http://whyrust.com/specifications/powdercoat.php

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Rover gods don't like it when you paint (or powdercoat) their chrome. Why not dip the bulkhead too and leave it all galvy. It would look nice with the light tan color.
I have already had the rear corner protectors done black and I will be leaving the wheels and and hardtop black, so I am sticking with the theme. Black and Tan, Haha. I think I will PC the wing top 5 bar too.
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  #14  
Old November 22nd, 2009, 12:06 PM
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that is one good looking truck
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  #15  
Old November 22nd, 2009, 04:36 PM
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Got a little work done today, 20 minutes here and there and a couple of weekends and it should move right along. Sort of looks like a girl without her makeup right now.
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  #16  
Old December 6th, 2009, 06:12 PM
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Angry

Got the seatbox out and found that a previous owner had bulkhead repairs done that involved welding the lower door frame piece to the bulkhead, so now I am search of a pair of lower door frames.
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  #17  
Old December 6th, 2009, 11:45 PM
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Such a nice looking a unique looking rig.

Love the BackCountry.com Goat sticker on the wing - it's a cool logo and certainly works with your truck.

Those are the SSR 285/85's mounted on there right? You were saying how you like them on another thread. They look like a really good size - not too big but some sizable tread.

Best of luck with the project :
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  #18  
Old December 7th, 2009, 07:50 AM
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Yes Don, 285/75-16 SSRs. Amazing how long it took to get the seatbox and seatbelt anchors out vs. how quickly it will go back in with all new fasterners.
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  #19  
Old December 7th, 2009, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY
Yes Don, 285/75-16 SSRs. Amazing how long it took to get the seatbox and seatbelt anchors out vs. how quickly it will go back in with all new fasterners.
Thanks Kevin - those rubgbers are on my list.

Sounds like my rear bumper/cross member re-do. That bear took forever to get off with the rusty & muddy hardware but took no time to get back in. I hope you weren't throwing wrenches and swearing as much as I was :D
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  #20  
Old December 7th, 2009, 09:50 AM
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Air tools and Kroil help a lot.
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