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  #41  
Old January 22nd, 2010, 07:39 PM
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Well one of the door posts collapsed when I was loading it into the Land Cruiser if that gives you a hint. Previous owner didn't know how to use a hose apparently. The bottom of the door posts and the outer side of the toe boxes are totally rotten, exactly what happens when you leave them packed with wet mud.
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  #42  
Old January 23rd, 2010, 05:57 PM
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I'll take some pictures on Monday
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #43  
Old February 6th, 2010, 02:12 PM
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Bulkhead is at Matt's for some love, meanwhile I dropped the fuel tank today. You can see how it is basically an ordinary series tank with the inside edge chopped off to clear the rear link mount. It is going to a local radiator guy who will boil it out and beadblast it for me. Then is getting internally sealed with a kit from KBS coatings and painted with Eastwood chassis black before going back in.
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  #44  
Old February 6th, 2010, 02:18 PM
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i have nothing to say except that Kevin's yellow series is freaking awesome :-O
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  #45  
Old February 6th, 2010, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by KevinNY View Post
Well one of the door posts collapsed when I was loading it into the Land Cruiser if that gives you a hint. Previous owner didn't know how to use a hose apparently. The bottom of the door posts and the outer side of the toe boxes are totally rotten, exactly what happens when you leave them packed with wet mud.
This is why I don't understand why people don't galvanize the bulkheads. I don't care how much paint or sealer you put on it, galvanizing is 10x better at fending off rust. Dip it and forget it.
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  #46  
Old February 7th, 2010, 11:54 AM
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This is why I don't understand why people don't galvanize the bulkheads. I don't care how much paint or sealer you put on it, galvanizing is 10x better at fending off rust. Dip it and forget it.
was that bulk head prepared by ECR to begin with.....with their dunk tanks? i have to agree galvy should be the way to go when i ever get to mine on my series....
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  #47  
Old February 7th, 2010, 11:59 AM
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The truck was done in '96 by ECR and had bulkhead repairs done since then by a second owner. They may have not done the dunk primer back that far.
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  #48  
Old February 9th, 2010, 07:37 AM
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Looks Good Kevin... At this point, just strip it down and redip the frame to look all shiny again. I always end up over doing everything... lol
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  #49  
Old February 9th, 2010, 10:47 AM
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Looks Good Kevin... At this point, just strip it down and redip the frame to look all shiny again. I always end up over doing everything... lol

That would be merely cosmetic.
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  #50  
Old February 13th, 2010, 03:52 PM
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I know Ron... I have problems... Im so shallow. I should consider more that just looks...lol
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  #51  
Old February 15th, 2010, 03:37 PM
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Rockware bumper stripped and vent holes drilled for the galvanizer. I use 7, 3/4" holes across the bottom of the blade with the corner ones as close to the ends as possible. The sliders were sandblasted by a neighbor who has a booth.
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  #52  
Old February 17th, 2010, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
This is why I don't understand why people don't galvanize the bulkheads. I don't care how much paint or sealer you put on it, galvanizing is 10x better at fending off rust. Dip it and forget it.
Galvanizing is not the cure all for frames or bulkheads. Galvy will not get into the gaps between overlapping layers of steel if they are smaller than 3/32 ". I have galvy frames show up at the shop with rust drooling out of cavities and areas in the rear crossmember. I'm not saying don't do it as I have done many at this point, and some of the trucks I build seem to have more galvy than paint. The point is that most of the rust issues can be solved by keeping internal cavities as clean as possible and by treating with a good rust preventative coating such as Waxoyl cavity wax. You certainly cannot "dip it and forget it.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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  #53  
Old February 17th, 2010, 11:52 AM
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"I have galvy frames show up at the shop with rust drooling out of cavities and areas in the rear crossmember."

I don't doubt you because I have seen runs of rust on galvy stuff a but everytime I have seen it, it is merely cosmetic and also the zinc acts as an annode or cathode (I forget which) and corrodes before the steel for the most part. Also, there are not a lot of areas where this can occur (the two stacked pieces of steel at the bottom of the cross member in the rear comes to mind). Now as far as dip it and forget it, I disagree, because as a practical matter you really can short of parking in the ocean or maybe using it as a working vehicle as a salter and plow. I have a galvanized series rear cross member that was on a truck in buffalo for >15 years and it is perfect other than being a dull grey color and a couple specs of rust where stones chipped the galvanizing off. I also have doors and cappings off of a 1951 SI that have no corrosion (just very, very dull grey) but the bulkhead itself is lace. I had a galvanized series bumper I left outside and it got burried for a few years and, you know what, no rust.

So until someone shows me a picture of a galvanized frame that has structural rust or a bulkhead someone properly prepped and dipped that is rusted out in any meaningful way, I stand by my Rover Chrome and will be dipping it and forgetting it
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  #54  
Old February 17th, 2010, 02:27 PM
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Yeaaahhh... But no.

I have a bulkhead that has seen 5 years of ontario winters and it is starting to rust through in places. Was done by Argo Coatings in Nova Scotia. I sandblasted it and prepped it. It is coming through at the top near the hinge where there are 5 thicknesses of metal. I can take pics but it's pinholes right now. I am junking it so I can cut it apart to investigate. This is on a salt-covered worked hard and put away wet beater that has plowed snow so it is probably a worst case scenario.





Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
"I have galvy frames show up at the shop with rust drooling out of cavities and areas in the rear crossmember."

I don't doubt you because I have seen runs of rust on galvy stuff a but everytime I have seen it, it is merely cosmetic and also the zinc acts as an annode or cathode (I forget which) and corrodes before the steel for the most part. Also, there are not a lot of areas where this can occur (the two stacked pieces of steel at the bottom of the cross member in the rear comes to mind). Now as far as dip it and forget it, I disagree, because as a practical matter you really can short of parking in the ocean or maybe using it as a working vehicle as a salter and plow. I have a galvanized series rear cross member that was on a truck in buffalo for >15 years and it is perfect other than being a dull grey color and a couple specs of rust where stones chipped the galvanizing off. I also have doors and cappings off of a 1951 SI that have no corrosion (just very, very dull grey) but the bulkhead itself is lace. I had a galvanized series bumper I left outside and it got burried for a few years and, you know what, no rust.

So until someone shows me a picture of a galvanized frame that has structural rust or a bulkhead someone properly prepped and dipped that is rusted out in any meaningful way, I stand by my Rover Chrome and will be dipping it and forgetting it
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  #55  
Old February 17th, 2010, 02:33 PM
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JL, I would like to see pictures.

Was it new when it was blasted and dipped? I can certainly see how a bulkhead that has interior rust (which you can't get at with a blaster) could rust away inside out after being dipped.

Ron

PS BTW if you are junking it and it is a defender/90/100 bulkhead, why don't you not do that and sell it to me.

edit: can we at least agree that galvanizing is better than any form of paint?
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  #56  
Old February 17th, 2010, 05:05 PM
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JL, I would like to see pictures.

Was it new when it was blasted and dipped? I can certainly see how a bulkhead that has interior rust (which you can't get at with a blaster) could rust away inside out after being dipped.

Ron

PS BTW if you are junking it and it is a defender/90/100 bulkhead, why don't you not do that and sell it to me.

edit: can we at least agree that galvanizing is better than any form of paint?
1966 109 bulkhead, sandblasted through pockets in door pillar and through the front fold, then pickled in acid and dipped. They were never painted inside and the acid wash would remove all the rust. The bad prep work argument does not fly as the inside everywhere but where there are multiple thicknesses is mint, even where no sandblast sand has gone before. Matt has a point that the stuff just does not penetrate between the multiple spotwelded thicknesses. I do 100% agree that it is the best treatment though. With real rustproofing a galvanized bulkhead should last ten years at least in my climate, which means 50 years + anywhere where salting is not a national sport.

I should clarify that it has a bent doorpost or I would run it for another 5 years at least.
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  #57  
Old February 17th, 2010, 07:07 PM
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was that bulk head prepared by ECR to begin with.....with their dunk tanks? i have to agree galvy should be the way to go when i ever get to mine on my series....
No.
Our dunk tanks didn't exist until Chris Komar worked at the shop and came up with that thought and made them. That was years later.
The yellow 88 was the second coil 88 we ever built and it started life as a nice solid truck that got a chassis and paint work, bulkead was "as found" but painted yellow from its original pastel green.
Each project is done to the customers work orders and their budget. Just because we built it doesn't mean it underwent a full restoration. If we had it to do again with all we have learned it would have a lot of changes from SS brake pipes to our SS coil gas tank and much more... but then again that would depend on the customers budget and what he/she wanted.

Kevin, nice to see the old girl getting a new lease on life with you. Great job!

------ Follow up post added February 17th, 2010 07:23 PM ------

I've got a folder full of photos from that truck at the old shop. I should dig them out and send them to you for "history" of the beast.
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  #58  
Old February 18th, 2010, 07:45 AM
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edit: can we at least agree that galvanizing is better than any form of paint?
Depending on where applied I would agree 100%. Bulkheads are still going to be iffy at best and will require an additional rustproofing of some sort and a carefull eye toward maintenance.

I'm a big fan and will always galvy anything I reasonably can including every bit of steel that is bolted to the frame and all door frames and internal bits, hood frame, shock towers, coil buckets, etc etc..........starting with a bare 110 that amounts to an additional 347lbs of zinc (well, on the last one I measured....they are all different). Just feel the need to assert that it is not a dip it and forget it sitiuation as far as the bulkheads are concerned. You'll be disappointed, and in fact will be fairly quickly disappointed as rust will develop readily in a galvanized defender bulkhead which is not the case if seam sealed, painted and waxoyled.

The last bunch I have done are galvanized, painted, seam sealed and waxoyled (cavity wax). we will see how that works. I have one living on one of the saltiest islands in the world.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #59  
Old February 18th, 2010, 10:46 AM
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Well whatever you do hopefully the "Previous owner" has learnt how to use a hose and won't leave the bottom of the door posts and the outer side of the toe boxes packed with wet mud again.

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  #60  
Old February 18th, 2010, 01:21 PM
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Last night I wandered out to the garage to look at my galvanized bulkhead and it appears as though the zinc has acted as a seam sealer of sorts and capped off a lot of the gaps where two pieces of sheet metal go together. Not sure if it will eventually crack, but I thought it was worth noting. I am still not planning on painting anything, but I will probably spray some waxoyl in just because (even though I doubt I will have an issue given my location and use).
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