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  #21  
Old April 25th, 2015, 04:50 PM
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Yeah, it's the Td5-era cover with the heavy rubber and foam backing. I've scored three of the over the years from different places, but this time I found it on ebay.uk where no one else wanted to buy a LHD cover. I paid like 90 pounds but it's usually like twice that.
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  #22  
Old April 25th, 2015, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
Yeah, it's the Td5-era cover with the heavy rubber and foam backing. I've scored three of the over the years from different places, but this time I found it on ebay.uk where no one else wanted to buy a LHD cover. I paid like 90 pounds but it's usually like twice that.
I need to score one....how are the seatbox covers different for LHD versus RHD?
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  #23  
Old April 25th, 2015, 04:57 PM
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Cut out for the parking brake. By the way, this is part one of a three piece set which covers the footwells, the tunnel and floor, and the seat box. This truck already has the first two, so I just needed the seat box cover. Sadly I've never bought one in the bag so I don't know the part number.
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  #24  
Old April 25th, 2015, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JimC View Post
Cut out for the parking brake. By the way, this is part one of a three piece set which covers the footwells, the tunnel and floor, and the seat box. This truck already has the first two, so I just needed the seat box cover. Sadly I've never bought one in the bag so I don't know the part number.
Ah right, handbrake....

Post up some pics of the other areas (footwells, tunnel, floor) if you don't mind. I'm actually probably going to go with different setup for the other areas, but I've been trying to figure out what to do about the seatbox.
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  #25  
Old April 25th, 2015, 06:18 PM
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Just saw this thread, sweet!

I'm glad to hear duct tape is the factory approved sealing method, since it's mine too.

Do you think an oil analysis would reveal a leaking injector on a gas V8? I'm thinking about doing it just for the heck of it either way - I had no idea it was that cheap.
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  #26  
Old April 25th, 2015, 06:31 PM
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Hey Charles-'I think the linking injector might at least contaminate the oil with a by product of some kind. It's worth a try, and the sample bottle just goes in first class mail for like $1.77 or something. I'm at least going to keep this going for a few oil changes to see what happens.
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  #27  
Old April 26th, 2015, 04:30 PM
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I got some assistance over at Defender2.net regarding this fog light connector. Apparently it's the same as a disco/disco II turn indicator switch plug. If anyone is parting a disco, please let me know!
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  #28  
Old April 26th, 2015, 04:43 PM
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I got some assistance over at Defender2.net regarding this fog light connector. Apparently it's the same as a disco/disco II turn indicator switch plug. If anyone is parting a disco, please let me know!
Jim:

I may be at a Pick N Pull this week grabbing a tcase from a D1, I can probably get you one
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  #29  
Old April 26th, 2015, 04:52 PM
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Awesome. Germans aren't really down with the whole "acres of cars" thing, and I haven't figured out how to navigate this problem in German. Most guys working at car recycling places over here don't speak English.
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  #30  
Old April 26th, 2015, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JimC View Post
Awesome. Germans aren't really down with the whole "acres of cars" thing, and I haven't figured out how to navigate this problem in German. Most guys working at car recycling places over here don't speak English.
I printed out the diagram and will bring it with me, I'll keep you posted.

Also, I know a little German. He's sitting right over there:
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  #31  
Old May 9th, 2015, 02:00 PM
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Mmm, finally, a very successful Defender day. I managed to get the hazards working, the rear fog light functioning, and the windshield washers squirting.

Every problem was stupid.

On the hazards I got out my test light and found I wasn't getting constant power. There was no power at the fuse box either. Turned out there was corrosion under the large 60 amp fuse. This truck has the later under seat fuse box which takes up a lot of space but is nice for access. Cleaned up the contact and was good to go.

Found added dumbness with two wires partially stripped. Heat shrink tube to the rescue. A quick inspection of the washer jets revealed the the tube was broken behind the dash, but filling the reservoir (with missing cap) and activating the switch sprayed no water but did illuminate the test light. I pulled the headlight for access and discovered the rear washer plug (130s don't have rear washers...) plugged into the pump motor. Further digging uncovered a couple lonely terminals dangling in the cavity and some unrelated jackassery in the running light wiring. I plugged the terminals into the pump, dug the hose out from the fender well, and squirting commenced. A quick bit of spare tubing run behind the dash and another defect was fixed.

The rear fog light was the stupidest issue of all. I initially knew the ECU for the rear fog needed a plug and the later discovered that the switch was actually a heated rear window switch with the button face swapped. I soldered in the connector parts generously provided by Kraig and Jason L the plugged a correct switch into the correct dash connector, and low-and-behold, the almost-never-used rear fog actually came on. Now I can at least pass inspection.

It seems like everywhere I look on this truck I'm finding wires which have been cut and then incompetently patched. I really would like to go pay the PO a visit and get a few buck back...
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  #32  
Old May 24th, 2015, 08:02 AM
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I went for my inspection and got gigged on three things. Apparently you have to gave a dashboard installed to pass. Inspectors also required me to replace the rear sway bar links. Pretty dumb considering I could just remove the sway bars and be good. Lastly, I've got to get a new windshield. No biggie really, it's a chance to upgrade to a heated one. So, after dealing with the dumb stuff, I did a preliminary install of a freshly powder coated ARB. I used Rover North's extension kit instead. Im just not happy with it though, it just sticks out to far. I haven't decided yet whether I'll trim the bumper or just drill some different holes in the extensions themselves. Once I get that figured out il can worry about the winch. Even though there is some tweaking left, I'm glad to not have a Disco running board for a front bumper anymore.
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  #33  
Old May 24th, 2015, 12:37 PM
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I know it's powder coated, but I think extending the tabs on the bumper should still be on the table. You can paint down there and never tell. That way you can set the gap perfectly.
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  #34  
Old May 24th, 2015, 02:07 PM
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You're right Charles, that might be the right way in the end. There are still a bunch of trial and error steps to get it all right. Plus I'm being dumb about it and strong arming in on and off every time.

The other option is trimming the inside flange on the upright so that the extended grille fits between the uprights. The ARB on my 90 already had that mod because it came off of Ryan Sakurada's 110 where it fit nicely. I thought these extenders would be a nice option, but they didn't even fit on my Puma truck. They went right onto this frame but man, it looks like a 1950's Power Wagon sticking out there.
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  #35  
Old June 22nd, 2015, 03:52 AM
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Finally got the truck past inspection and got my permanent plates. What a racket.

In other news, I got my second oil analysis report back. This one is substantially improved in my mind, especially since I didn't change the filter when I changed the oil at a Spanish rest area on Easter Sunday. So there was still a quart or so of old dirty oil in the engine. I'll be really curious to get the next report since that will be the first one after a complete drain of the system.
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  #36  
Old June 22nd, 2015, 08:47 AM
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Thank you for the update. What did you end up doing with the ARB bumper mounting, please?
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  #37  
Old June 22nd, 2015, 12:36 PM
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Thank you for the update. What did you end up doing with the ARB bumper mounting, please?
Nothing yet. My truck was gone for a week for a TV show. "SOKO Stuttgart" is a CSI-type show and they borrowed it for an episode.
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  #38  
Old June 22nd, 2015, 04:28 PM
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jim I trimmed the little vertical reinforces on the brush bar pieces and it fit like it was made for it..
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  #39  
Old June 23rd, 2015, 03:42 AM
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jim I trimmed the little vertical reinforces on the brush bar pieces and it fit like it was made for it..
I just wish I remembered that before powder coating. Man. I guess I'll just have to touch it up.
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  #40  
Old August 1st, 2015, 02:17 PM
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I've been unhappy with the instrumentation in the Tdi. Fuel, temp, and time just doesn't do it for me. I'm going to have to get a mud pod and put in more gauges, but this is a start.

One odd thing is that the temp has been reading too high. I suspected that the truck was not actually overheating because it just didn't seem that hot. Once I got the old sender out I discovered that it appeared that thread lock had been used, which is a no-no for senders. After installation I took the truck out and flogged it and could not get it to go above 180. Now I'll just have to follow up with the laser thermometer and make sure the readings are accurate.

Also did oil pressure and fuel gauges today. Just trying to do an easy install until I have more time to put in the pyrometer, volt meter, and tach.

While everything was ripped apart I also installed wiring for the heated windscreen from mobile centre.co.uk - really happy with their product. Sorry, no pix, not that interesting anyway.

I also installed a Gentec auto-dimming compass/outside temp mirror. Totally cheesy, but it makes me super happy. Forgot to take a pic...
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