Ex MOD 2.5NA to Disco 200tdi - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 24th, 2016, 10:29 PM
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Ex MOD 2.5NA to Disco 200tdi

In anticipation of getting my disco 200tdi next week, I started getting the truck ready. Just need to disconnect clutch slave line, speedo cable, and drop the transfer case. Then prep the TDI and begin install.
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  #2  
Old January 25th, 2016, 07:58 AM
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A few tips...
Would be a good time to install a RHD PS.

Prep for the 200TDI:
Renew rear main seal, turbo drain hose, valve cover gasket, clutch (do not use the longer TDI release bearing)

Further mods:
R380 stumpy?
1.4 or 1.22 T-case
Tuning 200TDI (manual boost controller with fuel adjustment) + EGT & Boost gauges
Oil temp gauge?
Electric fan controlled by thermo switch?

Get rid of the sandwich filter and install a sedimenter, 12V fuel pump, spin-on fuel filter.

Consider a Webasto diesel fired heater for camping.
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  #3  
Old January 25th, 2016, 08:30 AM
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Thanks for the insight. Most of those are on my list. I'll be using a suffix F lt77. I currently have a suffix E MOD behind the 2.5na that is great but apparently F is stronger. I will be sleeping from 1.6 to 1.4 transfer case. I have all the 12 volt pump sedimenter and spin on ready to go in
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  #4  
Old January 25th, 2016, 09:07 AM
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ymmv but when using a disco radiator/intercooler box setup I have lowered the front frame radiator mounts about an inch.

I try to always replace the timing belt when installing one of these old engines. The belt needs to be done every 50k or 5 years but have seen them break earlier than both of those numbers. On a 200 the water pump has to come off to change the belt so again, unless the owner whines about the expense, I do the pump @ the same time. New soft motor and tcase mounts all around. The rubber gets hard with age which is why some trucks vibrate so much more than others.

Hardest part of a disco engine into a defender is figuring out how to do the air filter setup in a clean way. Most look like Jed Clampett did the install.
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  #5  
Old January 25th, 2016, 09:11 AM
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Thanks Doug. Will trim and reweld once I get the radiator frame set in. Hope to get tdi drivetrain the end of the week. Then prep and install the following week.
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  #6  
Old January 25th, 2016, 10:20 AM
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I plan to rebuild by 2.5TD in the spring in spite of the numerous recommendations to install a 200TDI. The only problem I have with this engine (122K miles) is oil leaks and pressure build up.

I prepared a check list, taking information form numerous books I have and here is the first draft, including tools and parts I need. I plan to add to this as I learn more. I will post the list on the forum and plan to video the "experience" including removal, rebuild and reinstall.
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  #7  
Old January 25th, 2016, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Prep for the 200TDI:
(do not use the longer TDI release bearing)
Why not the TDI release bearing? I ordered: CLUTCH KIT 200 TDI w/LT77, 300 TDI w/R380 DEFENDER & DISCOVERY I, part no. RNI705 from Rovers North. Is this the long release bearing you speak of?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
ymmv but when using a disco radiator/intercooler box setup I have lowered the front frame radiator mounts about an inch.
Lower them by 3cm (1.18 inches).
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  #8  
Old January 25th, 2016, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
(do not use the longer TDI release bearing)
From Megasquirt.

Short Unit : Defender 1983-2006, All late 300TDi, Wolf XD, 2.5 Petrol, NA Diesel - Current Part Number UTJ100210 or the older, and now superceeded number FTC4177

Long Unit : ALL V8s, 200 300TD1s with LT77 Gearboxes, Defenders Pre 1986, 200 + 300 Inc TD5, Disco 1 1989-1998, Disco 2 1998-2004 Inc. TD5, V8s Range Rover P38 95>, 101 V8 Forward Control, Land Rover Series 3 inc stage 1 V8. Current Part No is FTC5200. (Previous superceeded numbers being 594272, GRB229, FRC4679, FRC9568.)

Someone should clarify why and where the change happens.....

I would also suggest and "HD" release bearing with a metal housing and a reinforced clutch fork. Both tend to fail before the clutch.
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  #9  
Old January 25th, 2016, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steinhnj View Post
Why not the TDI release bearing? I ordered: CLUTCH KIT 200 TDI w/LT77, 300 TDI w/R380 DEFENDER & DISCOVERY I, part no. RNI705 from Rovers North. Is this the long release bearing you speak of?
.
No clue why Robert the Davis says that. There is a unique to bearing for the short bellhousing r380- where you cannot use the regular tdi bearing, but that doesn't apply to the lt77
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  #10  
Old January 25th, 2016, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
No clue why Robert the Davis says that. There is a unique to bearing for the short bellhousing r380- where you cannot use the regular tdi bearing, but that doesn't apply to the lt77
The "long" bearing is the normal one. The unique one is the short one.
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  #11  
Old January 25th, 2016, 12:15 PM
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i don't get why people lower the frame mounts. it is just as easy to remove the little brackets from the bottom of the rad frame and reweld the pins directly to the frame. i.e, rad frames are the same except the disco/rrc one has a little sheet metal bump out on the bottom where the pins are. Why eff with your chassis?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
ymmv but when using a disco radiator/intercooler box setup I have lowered the front frame radiator mounts about an inch.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #12  
Old January 25th, 2016, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
i don't get why people lower the frame mounts. it is just as easy to remove the little brackets from the bottom of the rad frame and reweld the pins directly to the frame. i.e, rad frames are the same except the disco/rrc one has a little sheet metal bump out on the bottom where the pins are. Why eff with your chassis?
Agree. If I can mod the radiator frame I will.

Got the transfer case out tonight.
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  #13  
Old January 25th, 2016, 11:59 PM
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Pic.
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Old January 26th, 2016, 02:06 PM
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Engine and gear box out.
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  #15  
Old January 26th, 2016, 02:17 PM
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Jeebus Adam, there's a big hole in the middle of your truck--nice job!
Are you taking some time off work or just not sleeping at night??

.
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  #16  
Old January 26th, 2016, 02:28 PM
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Once the kids are in bed I get garage time. So 2000-2400. Plus wife has a new book she's into which helps. Had a snow day off work today so a lot if heavy lifting done.

------ Follow up post added January 26th, 2016 02:33 PM ------

Oh, and no I don't sleep. 2 year old just moved over to big boy bed. F-ing Houdini. He has figured out most of the "child profing" which allows him to be about an inch from my face at 3 am when I open my eyes because I have a feeling someone is watching me. Ha! Time for door lock. Good times
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Old January 26th, 2016, 02:49 PM
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Nice job!
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  #18  
Old January 29th, 2016, 01:23 PM
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Pulled the trigger, Stumpy R380 inbound. By the time I get done refreshing the motor it will arrive in time for install. This will push me out a few extra weeks.
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  #19  
Old January 30th, 2016, 07:58 PM
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Paging Newman!
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  #20  
Old January 30th, 2016, 09:52 PM
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Pulled the trigger, Stumpy R380 inbound.
Where did you buy it from? I've been tempted to get one..
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