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  #101  
Old March 4th, 2016, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by belgian View Post
Awesome, great job.
Now all the work is done, it's time for me to stop by. ha

Ha, WTF!
Yeah, you and Rick both vanished when project started.
Always beer in the garage fridge.
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  #102  
Old March 4th, 2016, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedpin View Post
Ha, WTF!
Yeah, you and Rick both vanished when project started.
Always beer in the garage fridge.

Hey... I did offer. Not my fault that you went all German and blitzkrieg on this project!

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Great progress,

Let me know if you need an extra pair of hands.
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  #103  
Old March 4th, 2016, 10:25 AM
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I know, I know. Figured my garage working hours were not very conducive to others free time.
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  #104  
Old March 4th, 2016, 05:06 PM
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Found a few drops of fresh engine oil on the ground coming from between flywheel housing and block. Not rear main seal but the paper gasket between housing and engine block. I sandwiched the paper gasket with hylomar. Err. Out she comes . Probably put a few miles on to see if anything else pops up.

Engine out or drop trans/TC .. leaning towards pulling engine but will think more
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  #105  
Old March 4th, 2016, 05:22 PM
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Mike Simpson
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Bummer.

I didn't read every line of this thread but since you are using a Disco 200tdi, did you put the additional 4 bolts in the flywheel housing? If you don't know what I'm talking about then I think I might know what your problem is.
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  #106  
Old March 4th, 2016, 05:26 PM
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I did add the 4 bolts to the flywheel housing as well as drill and tap the lower bolt holes for the transmission bolts

------ Follow up post added March 4th, 2016 05:29 PM ------

It's definitely seems to be between the engine block and the paper gasket. NOT between paper gasket and flywheel housing and not coming out wade plug
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  #107  
Old March 4th, 2016, 06:42 PM
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Drove in about a mile and let it heat up about to temp. If it's a few drips it is what it is fix it when I get annoyed .. if it's a LEAK I'll fix it now.
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  #108  
Old March 7th, 2016, 07:00 AM
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At this point it needs to be done right. pulled motor, waiting on a better block to flywheel housing gasket. Also I had more oil in my output pipe to intercooler from turbo then there should have (that was without crankcase hose attached) and was a pretty smokey. Ordered new turbo cartridge as this one has seen better days.

Motor will be back in this weekend
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  #109  
Old March 7th, 2016, 08:06 AM
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Think I got a pretty good deal. Shipped to my door by wednesday.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/151988132456?e...e4&_mwBanner=1
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  #110  
Old March 7th, 2016, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedpin View Post
Think I got a pretty good deal. Shipped to my door by wednesday. http://m.ebay.com/itm/151988132456?e...e4&_mwBanner=1
I did somewhat the same thing through Dingocroft. Tim gave me a great deal. My old unit had some life left but there was no telling how much so I sold it on eBay for parts with the exhaust horns for $300.
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  #111  
Old March 7th, 2016, 08:13 AM
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cool. turbo ran fine without noise or anything just think the seals are going. Might be worth rebuilding for someone.
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  #112  
Old March 7th, 2016, 08:19 AM
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Yup, iirc, the seals are inexpensive and the way to go if the bearings still have life. Kids in YouTube do them in under 15mins.
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  #113  
Old March 7th, 2016, 08:24 AM
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fwiw. Many paper gaskets are meant to absorb and swell with oil intrusion and then as they swell they seal.
If you smear them with hylomar etc you block that from happening. I had Detroit's in one of my boats and the manual said "soak gaskets in engine oil for several hours before install". Not saying that was your issue, just that some oil related paper gaskets are meant to swell.
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  #114  
Old March 7th, 2016, 08:36 AM
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Thanks Doug. I thought about that. Could have eventually gotten better but based on the amount leaking and the fact I used the inferior shitpart paper gasket vice the "elring" version. see pics for difference. I wanted to make it right. Took 30 min to pull motor back out.. getting good at it
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  #115  
Old March 7th, 2016, 12:50 PM
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Ugh...I used said gasket on the left...I used hylomar...I don't want to become "good at it".

I should know in about 10 days.
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  #116  
Old March 7th, 2016, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steinhnj View Post
Ugh...I used said gasket on the left...I used hylomar....




Me too!


Hope you were heavier on the hylomar. I used some (skim coat, not bead) on both mating surfaces and gasket in between. I cleaned both surfaces with blade then acetone. No dice. If you still have trans off I would highly recommend using a better RTV. don't know what I could have done better as far as the install.
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  #117  
Old March 7th, 2016, 04:26 PM
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Not to question things, but does not the manual state to use Silicone instead of the gasket in that location? Hylosil 102 is just silicone. Some Right Stuff would be a good choice. I had thought that the gasket was an early design and they changed to silicone due to high leakage rates....
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  #118  
Old March 7th, 2016, 04:33 PM
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This The TDi pages - information on 200 and 300 TDi - by Glencoyne Engineering says it depends on the housing... But, people seem to recommend that sealant is a better idea regardless.

Quote:
Early 200 flywheel housings had a shallow recess around the back of the seal carrier and were glued to the block with RTV sealant. This was soon replaced with a gasket which is fitted dry. If you have the early type of flywheel housing, Land Rover recommend using a gasket (ERR1440) and filling the recess with RTV sealant. The gasket tends to set hard and is very time consuming to scrape off the back of the block - you need to remove every last bit to ensure the new gasket seats correctly. Good quality gaskets are grey on one side, brick red on the other and have beads of sealant already applied - use one of these, not the cheapo grey plain paper gaskets.
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  #119  
Old March 7th, 2016, 04:43 PM
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Neil Steinhagen
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Adam, are you going to reuse the rear main seal or did you get a new one of those too?
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  #120  
Old March 7th, 2016, 05:28 PM
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Depends on how easily it slides off I plan on ordering the crank well. I do have a spare if need be
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