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  #1  
Old September 13th, 2016, 02:47 AM
nickybee
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Defender 90 MoD conversion to V8 - finishing touches question

OK. This is just a preamble to what will soon be an epic write-up of a build. (may well end up being a magazine article ) - but as a tease here's a photo of the D90 last weekend.

quick question for the forum...since I'm not in the habit of frying eggs on my floor I thought I'd try and kill some of the heat

I don't care that much about sound for now - heat is my primary concern.

BUT...and this is a big but...

Whatever heat reflecting solution we come up with has to preserve the stock military interior look - i.e. no carpets, no dynamat etc.

It seems to me that the biggest culprits are the transmission tunnel and then the exhaust system overall.

By that logic - taping the exhaust and sticking some kind of self-adhesive aluminum Cool-it Thermo-Tec thing (or similar) on the inside of the Transmission Tunnel cover (as well as "UNDER" both footwell panels is my only option...

Is that right or am I missing a core area of minimising heat
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  #2  
Old September 13th, 2016, 07:00 AM
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Arguably you drive the most common defender configuration, I think my last concern would be keeping the interior original.

That said, molded floor mats were often found in ex-mods, there are also cooling find for the tcase and any transmission cooling you could do would likely provide the most benefit. From what I can tell the vast majority of the heat in my footwell is the r380 humming along.

I think roverdrive makes the tcase cooling fins IIRC
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Old September 13th, 2016, 07:06 AM
nickybee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NPT90 View Post
Arguably you drive the most common defender configuration, I think my last concern would be keeping the interior original.

That said, molded floor mats were often found in ex-mods, there are also cooling find for the tcase and any transmission cooling you could do would likely provide the most benefit. From what I can tell the vast majority of the heat in my footwell is the r380 humming along.

I think roverdrive makes the tcase cooling fins IIRC
sorry I misspoke - it's not so much that I am concerned fbout preserving the interior due to adhering to some "standard" spec - I just like the look of it.

Hmm - are you referring to these Global Roamer Corporation - or something else?
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Old September 13th, 2016, 08:00 AM
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using dynamat or similar with a mylar face does wonders for reflecting heat. Doing the underside of the floors and tunnel cover is a good idea. Just trim so that you don't encroach into the mounting flange area.
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Old September 13th, 2016, 08:39 AM
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I've been toying with the idea of doing double-wall floorpans, and sandwiching some insulating material between the two. Not too worried about trapping water in the aluminum sheet metal... the trick would be a double wall trans tunnel... I have no solution for that as of yet.
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Old September 13th, 2016, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shagey71 View Post
I've been toying with the idea of doing double-wall floorpans, and sandwiching some insulating material between the two. Not too worried about trapping water in the aluminum sheet metal... the trick would be a double wall trans tunnel... I have no solution for that as of yet.
wouldn't that be as easy as cutting it in half and welding a half in of material to the top seam?
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Old September 13th, 2016, 09:11 AM
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I think i'd go the other way and remove some material out of the middle, just to install the lower panel under the flange on the bulkhead, that way there's no visual gap on the inside by the fuse panel and seat box. But yes, not a bad plan. Or could use a floor pan section for a larger trans and stuff it full of insulation.
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Old September 13th, 2016, 03:23 PM
nickybee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
using dynamat or similar with a mylar face does wonders for reflecting heat. Doing the underside of the floors and tunnel cover is a good idea. Just trim so that you don't encroach into the mounting flange area.
so you're saying that dynamat CAN be used on the underside of tunnel color and floors?

I assumed the adhesive would just melt off if I did that? and I might have to use something that's more like high temp adhesive backed aluminum..

can anyone speak to the adhesion properties of dynamat under high heat?

(or perhaps that's the whole point)
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Old September 13th, 2016, 04:06 PM
nickybee
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Thermo tec

ok I spoke to Thermo-tec about this

Thermo-Tec : Adhesive Backed Heat Barrier

and dude said that a few people have used this on the inside of the transmission tunnel cover.

The adhesive backed side is rated to 300 Fahrenheit - but according to him could handle up to 500 F.

Anyone know what the temps are inside the case

inside the case seems like a good idea in general...I bought 2x4 feet of the thermotec just now so I'll report on how it performs.

Anyone got a good solution for cleaning out the underlayer of the trans. tunnel to prep for adhesion?
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