Defender 50th LS2 / 6l80 Build - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 7th, 2014, 12:05 AM
UL1700
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James
Defender 50th
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Defender 50th LS2 / 6l80 Build

Hi All.
I’m new to the forum but found it through Nicks 6l80 thread (http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...=51290&page=25) Anyway to cut a long story short, I killed the 4.6 Rover V8 in my 50th Anniversary 90 about a year ago so I made the decision to fit a LS1 in its place. I duly had a bell housing made by Dellow Conversions to mate it to the ZF 4 speed box. Unfortunately Ashcroft transmissions were not convinced that even their up rated ZF box could handle the power. I then got a good price on a LS2 and 6l80 combo and had a couple of companies who thought they would have an adapter available in the next few months. Well fast forward a year and with no joy from the locals, I found Nick, who after a few emails had a set of engine mounts and an adapter and a few other bits and pieces flying over to my door. This thread will pick up from having already removed the old engine and box from the 50th and with Nicks parts freshly on the door mat…

So just a few Notes before we start:
  • This is NOT a concourse build (The 50th is my daily drive and I live on a farm and work on a farm… It needs to be reliable not polished)
  • The build is taking place in Victoria Australia
  • The defender will be legally returned to the road including all Victorian engineering requirements
  • The build will progress at its own pace and as time and funds allow
  • I will include all part numbers where possible and answer any questions but please be aware that I am not a professional and all my advice is for interest only
  • I am indebted to Nick for allowing this project to happen
James


OK so the first job is to convert the 2wd 6l80 to 4wd. The only sensible option for getting this box in Australia is from a car or Ute. There are a few little things to watch here as we are converting from a wet tail housing to a dry...




WP_20141012_10_26_37_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

1. Remove 2wd tail housing by removing chassis mount if fitted, 30mm nut and the ring of 15mm bolts. Some oil will leak out once the housing is removed

6L80 by James.Elphick, on Flickr

2. Fit 13mm core plugs to the top and bottom oil drillings. I have seen some people tap these 1/4 UNC but core plugs are quick, cheep OEM and don't get swarf into the box

WP_20141028_16_41_07_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

4. C
ut off the threaded section of output shaft

WP_20141202_18_15_52_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

5. Fit a output shaft seal GM 24238076 National of Timken 710533 (thanks Nick )

WP_20141202_18_18_33_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

5. To fit nicks adapter, the RH lug needs to be cut off the 4wd output / tail housing. I used a flap disk to blend the cut stub to look a original as possible

WP_20141202_20_06_50_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

6. Remove the old outer seal, clean up the cut shaft and bolt on the 4wd tail housing


WP_20141203_17_22_35_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

Cool that will do for now, I will post another update soon...
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  #2  
Old December 7th, 2014, 12:14 AM
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Justin
87 ROW build in progress
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Great I am looking forward to seeing this through! good luck
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  #3  
Old December 7th, 2014, 02:51 PM
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Great work, keep the pic's coming.... Sub'd
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  #4  
Old December 8th, 2014, 06:55 AM
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James
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OK so looking at the output shaft seal, I'm not 100% sure that the outer most lip of the seal is actually on the machined surface of the output shaft. I know that Nicks adapter can have seals fitted so that it can be used with a wet tail housing but I want to know what is going on so I have drilled and tapped a drain plug into the 4x4 extension housing (which is part number 24241166 sorry missed from my previous post)

WP_20141208_19_47_53_Pro (2) by James.Elphick, on Flickr

This done, I refitted the housing and bolted on Nicks adapter

WP_20141202_18_41_44_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

I then bolted my transfer box to the adapter ensuring that both dowels are fitted and aligned.

WP_20141207_14_11_21_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

Next I trial fitted the gearbox mounts and Hi / Lo shifter and found that the shifter just snagged the top of the gearbox so some slight easing of the shifter with a flap disk allowed for clearance

WP_20141206_14_29_57_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

WP_20141206_14_41_02_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

Just a note on the transfer box, I have built it up with an Ashcroft ATB http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co...-atb-diff.html and a Roamerdrive sump http://www.rockymountainspares.co.uk/?page_id=41 as a little extra insurance...

WP_20141201_17_10_31_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr
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  #5  
Old December 9th, 2014, 06:33 AM
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Ok so engine mounts... Firstly DON'T do it like this... thanks Nick

WP_20141206_11_29_10_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

However I believe this should be OK

WP_20141209_19_55_26_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

Anyway, not much to it, line a supplied bolt up with the one already drilled in the chassis and secure the mount. Then drill through the remaining holes. I had to remove the steering box to drill the drivers side holes.

WP_20141205_18_29_17_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

I also had to grind a small chamfer on the inside edge of each mount to reileve them past the chassis welds

WP_20141205_16_59_26_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

WP_20141209_19_08_00_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

I opened the holes out to fit M10 bolts and crown lock nuts.

Anyway hopefully tomorrow I will get a chance to attempt fitting the engine and transmission into the Defender...

WP_20141209_20_07_01_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

WP_20141209_20_07_13_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr
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  #6  
Old December 10th, 2014, 04:27 AM
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OK so had a half day today so I took the opportunity to trial fit the drive train into the 50th. It was all reliability simple although lining up the gearbox mounts was a bit tricky as I could not get the engine level left and right.

WP_20141210_13_49_00_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

My engine mounts have not arrived yet due to customs and a "airline delay" unfortunalty it is obvious that the sump on my engine will not work as it hits the axle so was wondering what sumps people are using?

WP_20141210_17_59_13_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

My best option currently appears to be

http://www.currentperformance.com/sh...r-oil-pan-kit/

But if people have any other ideas it would be good to hear especially if it saves some $$$ and the $158 shipping

Thanks

James
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  #7  
Old December 10th, 2014, 08:11 AM
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Justin
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Mine is off a 2013 Tahoe. Fits fine. Should work on your motor as well.
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  #8  
Old December 10th, 2014, 09:59 AM
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[QUOTE="Jwillia;588599"]Mine is off a 2013 Tahoe. Fits fine. Should work on your motor as well.[/QUOTE
I had the same concern but it does clear.
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  #9  
Old December 10th, 2014, 10:44 AM
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Chris
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Dry Sump?
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #10  
Old December 10th, 2014, 11:04 AM
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Nicholas Markiw
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oil pan

The conversion was designed around the truck engine/trans. Here are the part numbers for the truck oil pan. Using a car oil pan will result in oil starvation when you vehicle it at angles.
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  #11  
Old December 10th, 2014, 11:18 AM
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Another option you might want to look at is the Pro Steel pan from Tilden. It has trap door baffles, a thick base & provision for cooler connections.

Not the cheapest way to go but for a truck that'll see lots of off road & bush use, might be the best

http://pacificfabrication.com/tilden...-oil-pans.html

I plan to use on my Gen III conversion as it's a 99% play machine
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  #12  
Old December 12th, 2014, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
Another option you might want to look at is the Pro Steel pan from Tilden. It has trap door baffles, a thick base & provision for cooler connections.

Not the cheapest way to go but for a truck that'll see lots of off road & bush use, might be the best

http://pacificfabrication.com/tilden...-oil-pans.html

I plan to use on my Gen III conversion as it's a 99% play machine
That's a nice sump although not sure about the mud trap at the front. It will come down to cost (their website wants $500 for shipping!). I'm not ordering anything else until after xmass as I already have one parcel missing and my current summit order will have taken three weeks to get here . I should have some fuel parts to play with this weekend and I could finish off my shifter...
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  #13  
Old December 12th, 2014, 08:56 PM
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This looks very similar to the Tilden although I'm not sure what you are meant to do regarding oil pickup...

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...make/chevrolet

In this is very similar to OEM but with no apparent facility for a dip stick, I'm not sure how much use it is...

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...make/chevrolet

I like using summit as the deliver internationally at OK rates (its still $100 for a sump) and normally their kit is hear an a week to 10 days! Gm original parts not used on Ozzy cars are a PITA to get here :/

Edit: Just found this and only an hour down the road from me, might be the way to go

http://www.marks4wd.com/engine-parts/sumps/g3cks.html
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  #14  
Old December 13th, 2014, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UL1700 View Post
This looks very similar to the Tilden although I'm not sure what you are meant to do regarding oil pickup...

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...make/chevrolet

In this is very similar to OEM but with no apparent facility for a dip stick, I'm not sure how much use it is...

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...make/chevrolet

I like using summit as the deliver internationally at OK rates (its still $100 for a sump) and normally their kit is hear an a week to 10 days! Gm original parts not used on Ozzy cars are a PITA to get here :/

Edit: Just found this and only an hour down the road from me, might be the way to go

http://www.marks4wd.com/engine-parts/sumps/g3cks.html
The first uses Moroso pickup #24050

The second uses The Holley® LS Swap oil pans are designed to work with an LS3 dipstick and tube (if desired). Below are the part numbers:
 LS Dipstick – GM P/N 12634547
 LS tube – GM P/N 12625031
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  #15  
Old December 13th, 2014, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UL1700 View Post
Edit: Just found this and only an hour down the road from me, might be the way to go http://www.marks4wd.com/engine-parts/sumps/g3cks.html


And there on offer right now.... road trip !
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  #16  
Old December 13th, 2014, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
And there on offer right now.... road trip !


Yes, time price and location mean I think your right! Then if I punch a hole in it I can get something decent
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  #17  
Old December 23rd, 2014, 01:39 AM
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Been a little while since I have posted an update but its been hay season so have been flat out trying to avoid working all of Christmas! Anyway the new sump arrived from Marks and was fitted with no problems. You need to drop the back of the anti roll bar off if fitted and lift the chassis a little to give enough clearance above the axle to fit it. The only thing to watch if you have the car motor is that the dipstick enters through the sump
WP_20141221_17_36_49_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr
not the block so the core plug needs knocking out from the block before the sump is fitted. There is also a different pickup required again a simple bolt on...

WP_20141221_17_55_31_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

I have also been playing with shifters and looking at manifolds but more to follow on that soon...
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  #18  
Old December 26th, 2014, 02:05 AM
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OK So Holden Shifter...

There really was nothing to this. I have mocked up the mount for the shifter by cutting down the original LR mount and refolding the base flange. The seat box lid that it is mounted to on the auto defenders also needs a new hole cutting in it to allow the shifter leaver to pass thorough. I will now cad this up and have it punched and folded locally as it will need to be a sealed box to stop water ingress...

WP_20141215_17_17_53_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

Then the stock shifter rod is extended by approximately 55mm. I did this using 10mm rod 75mm long and drilling it out 8mm, 10mm deep at either end to locate the shifter rod. If you extend it between the gearbox end and the first bend, no re-bending is required. Draw a line along the rod before cutting to ensure that its not rotated during the extension.

WP_20141223_12_37_29_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

Bolt the shifter in and the leaver back on the box. Put the shifter in park and the gearbox in 1st. The rod can then be pulled through the shifter boss until the gearbox is back in the park position and the grub screw nipped up

WP_20141223_16_56_36_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

The defender console will fit over with the shifter in place so replace the consoll in preparation for the top plate to be fitted. (sorry about the filth, storing the defender in pieces in a barn for a year on a dairy farm has not improved the look of the interior )

WP_20141223_17_07_24_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

The cover-plate (still under development) will have four studs fitted that hold the top bezel flush with the top of the console. these will be tightened by reaching through from the back of the console where the fixing bolts are located.

Merry Christmas
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  #19  
Old January 4th, 2015, 01:50 AM
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OK so I have not had much time to look at the Defender in the last week or so as I'm still flat out hay making and have just purchased another project / toy for delivery hopefully on Wednesday. I have started on the fuel system, fitted a surge tank and a Bosch 044 external fuel pump and mounted the filter regulator assembly (hopefully some photos to follow). Also have been chatting to my local exhaust fabricator but don't yet have much to show for either.


Anyway I have decided to just buy the wiring loom as I want to get this thing running but was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a off the shelf emissions compliant harnesses?


Many Thanks,


James.
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  #20  
Old January 7th, 2015, 07:41 AM
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Off topic but wahoo, new toy...

WP_20150107_09_34_12_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

WP_20150107_09_42_06_Pro by James.Elphick, on Flickr

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