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  #1  
Old July 26th, 2013, 11:48 AM
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Defender 110 SW rebuild (jumping into the deep end)

Well I've been lurking here for a little while and I figure its time to start up a thread for own project.

I grew up with Landy's in my parents lane, in fact I came home from the hospital in a series 3, there must be some sort of imprint that leaves on your brain, as I have gone and jumped in the deep end with my own.

It began when I bought a field fresh 110 that had a partial LHD swap done, the engine and gearbox were gone and is pretty rough around the edges.

I've ordered up a Richards Chassis (the old one is toasty) a used 300tdi and r380 gearbox.

I'm tearing the truck down myself, planning to do body work clean-up and paint. I plan to install some disco 2 seats, thinking about a custom dash, it will need new doors all round as well.

I should mention I've never done anything like this before, although my day job and hobbies do include some metal fabrication and leather work.

I will then be sending it up highway 7 (in Ontario) to Dom at Global British to install the engine and gearbox and rewire.

Looking forward to getting feedback and advice along the way as issues and questions crop up.

Will

Here's where I'm at in photos:
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  #2  
Old July 26th, 2013, 11:56 AM
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Nice start! Keep us posted.
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  #3  
Old July 26th, 2013, 12:31 PM
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Looks like you picked a good start. The bulkhead does not look that bad and it has the cage and the rear bumper already.

Are you planning on galvanizing the bulkhead?
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  #4  
Old July 26th, 2013, 12:56 PM
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I do plan on galvanizing the bulkhead and all the other steel bits that make sense. Even considering doing the sills, b and c pillars.

I'm really torn over the bulkhead, it has some nasty sections where someone has gone a bit bondo happy. Also the footwells are quite rusty as is the metal where they connect. I would appreciate peoples thoughts on repair or replace. I know it can be repaired, but is it worth it?

Bulkhead pics:
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  #5  
Old July 26th, 2013, 12:58 PM
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I'm sure with enough time and money, anything can be fixed.

However, in my opinion, that bulkhead is gone. You should really buy a replacement bulkhead and have it galvanized. MUCH easier (and cheaper) in the long run.

As far as galvanizing goes: Don't just "consider" galvanizing bits. If you are galvanizing, galvanize EVERYTHING on the truck made of steel.
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  #6  
Old July 26th, 2013, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
I'm sure with enough time and money, anything can be fixed.

However, in my opinion, that bulkhead is gone. You should really buy a replacement bulkhead and have it galvanized. MUCH easier (and cheaper) in the long run.

As far as galvanizing goes: Don't just "consider" galvanizing bits. If you are galvanizing, galvanize EVERYTHING on the truck made of steel.

That's the direction I have been leaning in regards to the bulkhead.


Sound advice on the galvanizing! That's the direction I have been planning on taking. I was debating if I should take the frame out of the bonnet and dip it, but I don't think I can leave it even though it looks good.
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  #7  
Old July 26th, 2013, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
I was debating if I should take the frame out of the bonnet and dip it, but I don't think I can leave it even though it looks good.
I did the same. It's easy to do - remove the hood latch pin/spring, remove the rubber bumpers, drill out all rivets, unscrew the hinges, and pull out the entire frame from underneath the bonnet.

You'll need to do this in order to do a thorough repaint on the bonnet.
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  #8  
Old July 26th, 2013, 03:51 PM
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For things that you galvanize, consider chemical stripping instead of sandblasting. I did all my galvanization over sandblasting, and it came out a bit rough for my tastes.
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  #9  
Old July 26th, 2013, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
For things that you galvanize, consider chemical stripping instead of sandblasting. I did all my galvanization over sandblasting, and it came out a bit rough for my tastes.

I'll definitely keep that in mind. Especially for the parts that will be visible and painted.

Do you have any pics of how yours looked like painted?
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Old July 27th, 2013, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post

I'll definitely keep that in mind. Especially for the parts that will be visible and painted.

Do you have any pics of how yours looked like painted?
The galv parts painted? They look normal it just took tons of prep.
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  #11  
Old July 29th, 2013, 11:36 PM
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A little more progress. Windscreen and bulkhead are off.

Starting to get a little closer to the repair/fabrication/replacement phase. Looking forward to the tear down being finished.

On another note the inner wing bottom edge seems to have been bent at some point, which you can see in the picture, likely to clear something when the LHD conversion was started. I assume this isn't normally like that and plan to bend it straight before galvanizing. Would I be right in this assumption?


Will
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  #12  
Old August 5th, 2013, 12:36 AM
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More progress made today. The Chassis is fully off the axles and suspension.

Removing the Boge self leveling strut and linkages from the frame was a serious pain. In fact the Boge is still attached to the axle as the bolts have become one with it.

I'm assuming the strut is done for, and I know if I want to run without it I will need heavier springs. Are there other options out there that would do the same job as the strut and allow me to run softer springs with big loads? It seems to me the Boge was a great idea, and would love to get something similar running on this truck.
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  #13  
Old August 19th, 2013, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
A little more progress. Windscreen and bulkhead are off.

Starting to get a little closer to the repair/fabrication/replacement phase. Looking forward to the tear down being finished.

On another note the inner wing bottom edge seems to have been bent at some point, which you can see in the picture, likely to clear something when the LHD conversion was started. I assume this isn't normally like that and plan to bend it straight before galvanizing. Would I be right in this assumption?


Will
The inner wing looks normal to me.
Where were you thinking it was bent?



------ Follow up post added August 19th, 2013 10:20 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
More progress made today. The Chassis is fully off the axles and suspension.

Removing the Boge self leveling strut and linkages from the frame was a serious pain. In fact the Boge is still attached to the axle as the bolts have become one with it.

I'm assuming the strut is done for, and I know if I want to run without it I will need heavier springs. Are there other options out there that would do the same job as the strut and allow me to run softer springs with big loads? It seems to me the Boge was a great idea, and would love to get something similar running on this truck.
I run 130 rear outer springs in the rear & 90 rear springs in the front, gives about +1", sits level, doesn't roll much when cornering unloaded but copes with heavy loads just fine without a Boge self levelling gizmo.

Galvanizing: do everything steel - sills, B post, door frames, hood frame, battery box, storage box under the other front seat, all the body cappings & bulkhead. Threads tap out really easily don't bother putting RTV in them.
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  #14  
Old September 20th, 2013, 11:39 AM
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Rear Axle/ Differential advice

So I've been waffling back and fourth in regards to axles on this project. The rear differential was out when I got the truck and was thinking it would be easy to just get some disco axles with discs and be done with it. I have since reconsidered since the Salsisbury axle is so much tougher (I hear).

So I'm looking for some advice on weather or not it's worth trying to save what I have (has some rust on it from sitting in the back of the exposed truck (prior to my purchase). Or should i try and track down another axle and diff.

Here are some pics of the current condition and would really appreciate some feedback.
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  #15  
Old September 20th, 2013, 11:40 AM
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One more of the half shafts.
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  #16  
Old September 20th, 2013, 12:11 PM
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Ring and pinion does not look terrible. I would clean up the rust on them with an Emory cloth then I would replaces the bearings and seals, use the disco I hubs and brakes, buy new disc brake length axle shafts, caliper brackets, and you would have a disc sals for $600 or so.

The rust on the inner housing would not bother me much. I would just sand it down a bit and make a note to change the oil after 500 miles and see how contaminated it was.

My good friend dom drove his SIII with a sals half way up Australia off road with only water in the diff. When we got it to the US we drained the water (which had been sitting for months), put oil in it, and it was fine.
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Old September 20th, 2013, 01:07 PM
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You beat me to that truck by a couple of days.

If the old chassis is up for grabs, I could use some brackets and pieces for my custom chassis buildup. I am also in Ottawa (actually Wakefield QC). Send me a PM, would be nice to check it out!

Edit:

I also think the bulkhead is probably pretty far gone. Everything can be fixed but that would take a lot of effort.

Cheers

JL Morin
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  #18  
Old September 20th, 2013, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Ring and pinion does not look terrible. I would clean up the rust on them with an Emory cloth then I would replaces the bearings and seals, use the disco I hubs and brakes, buy new disc brake length axle shafts, caliper brackets, and you would have a disc sals for $600 or so.
That's what I was hoping to hear, thanks for the advice! I think I'll strip the last bits off the axle casing, sandblast it and powdercoat or paint it and get to the rebuild.

I suppose I better go re-read the Sals disc conversion thread and make sure I get the right bits to make it happen.
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Old September 21st, 2013, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Ring and pinion does not look terrible. I would clean up the rust on them with an Emory cloth then I would replaces the bearings and seals, use the disco I hubs and brakes, buy new disc brake length axle shafts, caliper brackets, and you would have a disc sals for $600 or so.
So having a good look over the sas disc conversion thread and I assume you have done the upgrade as you described above. I think this makes sense for me as well since my half shafts aren't super nice and could be replaced.

Couple questions to confirm I've got this disc conversion straight.

Parts needed:

Disco 1 Rear rotors
Disco 1 Rear calipers
Disco 1 Rear hub assembly abs/non abs
Disco 1 caliper brackets??
Defender half shafts for disc version sals axle (shorter version)

so the 24 spline half shafts mate up fine with the disco 1 hub?

Anything I'm missing here?
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  #20  
Old September 21st, 2013, 12:29 AM
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You need the Salisbury disc brake caliper brackets not the disco ones (they are integral to the axle housing on a disco). You use the disco I ABS hubs. You need to use the disco stub axles (aka spindles in 'murican speak). You also need the thin drive flanges (disco I or ABS RRC front ones will work fine). Other than bolts (I think the two to hold on the caliper are different than the disco) and, depending on your view, maybe a different proportioning valve (I don't plan to change mine and most people don't) that will do it. You can do a dry run without the brackets and axle shafts figure it all out as you have both axles there. I "think" I have everything I need but I have not done it yet. You can also use the non-ABS RRC hubs and stock axle shafts but that requires machine work on the caliper bracket and then you can't run alloys without the hub sticking through.

I should add there are two ways to do the conversion. Both are described in the conversion thread. The way I described first I think is the best as you get by with more common parts and not machining the caliper brackets, but you have to buy new axle shafts. The second way is to machine the brackets, use the stock drum length axle shafts and non-ABS RRC hubs.
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