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  #21  
Old September 21st, 2013, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
You need the Salisbury disc brake caliper brackets not the disco ones (they are integral to the axle housing on a disco). You use the disco I ABS hubs. You need to use the disco stub axles (aka spindles in 'murican speak). You also need the thin drive flanges (disco I or ABS RRC front ones will work fine). Other than bolts (I think the two to hold on the caliper are different than the disco) and, depending on your view, maybe a different proportioning valve (I don't plan to change mine and most people don't) that will do it. You can do a dry run without the brackets and axle shafts figure it all out as you have both axles there. I "think" I have everything I need but I have not done it yet. You can also use the non-ABS RRC hubs and stock axle shafts but that requires machine work on the caliper bracket and then you can't run alloys without the hub sticking through.

I should add there are two ways to do the conversion. Both are described in the conversion thread. The way I described first I think is the best as you get by with more common parts and not machining the caliper brackets, but you have to buy new axle shafts. The second way is to machine the brackets, use the stock drum length axle shafts and non-ABS RRC hubs.
Thanks for the clarification. Yes I think the way you describe makes the most sense for me, if my half shafts were in better shape maybe I would go the other. But It would be nice to run alloys too.

Guess I need to find a Disco 1 rear axle (or start trolling for parts) and a deal on some half shafts.

Will
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  #22  
Old September 21st, 2013, 03:41 AM
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Should be plenty of D1 or later 24 spline RRC axles in salvage yards looking for a second chance.
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  #23  
Old September 22nd, 2013, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
You need the Salisbury disc brake caliper brackets not the disco ones (they are integral to the axle housing on a disco). You use the disco I ABS hubs. You need to use the disco stub axles (aka spindles in 'murican speak). You also need the thin drive flanges (disco I or ABS RRC front ones will work fine). Other than bolts (I think the two to hold on the caliper are different than the disco) and, depending on your view, maybe a different proportioning valve (I don't plan to change mine and most people don't) that will do it. You can do a dry run without the brackets and axle shafts figure it all out as you have both axles there. I "think" I have everything I need but I have not done it yet. You can also use the non-ABS RRC hubs and stock axle shafts but that requires machine work on the caliper bracket and then you can't run alloys without the hub sticking through.

I should add there are two ways to do the conversion. Both are described in the conversion thread. The way I described first I think is the best as you get by with more common parts and not machining the caliper brackets, but you have to buy new axle shafts. The second way is to machine the brackets, use the stock drum length axle shafts and non-ABS RRC hubs.
One more question for further clarification, and again I really appreciate the help.

It seems that there are two versions of the Salisbury disc half shafts. Are these the ones I need? FTC1724 and FTC1725? or TOB500020 and TOB500030? I think it's the first ones but am a bit confused on the differences.

Will

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  #24  
Old September 23rd, 2013, 12:07 AM
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Well, I am not sure what the difference is. The ones I bought were the FTC numbers.
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  #25  
Old September 24th, 2013, 08:59 PM
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Some updates.

The roof has been stripped cleaned, old cracked sealant removed. A small bit of body work to do tomorrow and then will be applying 3M 5200 to hopefully be rid of leaks for a good long time.

Also got a big batch of rusty/corroded bits ready and sent to be blasted this week. Took a bunch of time sealing up the rear axle casing, even made a quick leather gasket to prevent media getting in.
One thing learned this week, getting the vulcanized bushings out of the upper rear A frame arms is a pain!
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  #26  
Old September 25th, 2013, 02:49 PM
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Who are you using for sandblasting?
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  #27  
Old September 25th, 2013, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by oilburner View Post
Who are you using for sandblasting?

Getting it done at Preptech on Cleopatra drive. They seemed to know what they were talking about and quotes seemed reasonable. I will post the results when I get everything back.

Will
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  #28  
Old September 26th, 2013, 08:38 PM
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Five tubes of 3m 5200 later the roof is sealed. Now a week of curing. Hopefully this gets rid of any leak issues, from the roof anyway.

Also tried some colour samples for the new paintjob. Pretty happy with the results.

Tomorrow I'm off to a rover graveyard to grab a Disco 1 front axle (my front casing is shot). Also picking up disco 1 hubs, rotors, drive flange etc for my rear Salisbury Disc conversion.
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  #29  
Old September 27th, 2013, 02:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
Five tubes of 3m 5200 later the roof is sealed. Now a week of curing. Hopefully this gets rid of any leak issues, from the roof anyway. Also tried some colour samples for the new paintjob. Pretty happy with the results. Tomorrow I'm off to a rover graveyard to grab a Disco 1 front axle (my front casing is shot). Also picking up disco 1 hubs, rotors, drive flange etc for my rear Salisbury Disc conversion.
Make sure to grab the spindles and calipers too!
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  #30  
Old September 28th, 2013, 12:50 AM
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Well today was a long day. Drove two hours out of town and spent the afternoon pulling a donor front axle out of an old disco 1. I think the worst part was actually taking the wheels off, the pressed on lug nut covers has separated front the actual lug nuts making it a real nightmare to get off. Especially hard when you're not in your own workspace.

There were some bonuses though, including picking up a set of nice galvy cappings off a series tub which look like will work nicely for me, as mine aren't so hot.

Picked a bunch of bit I need for my Salisbury disc conversion, few more bits needed though.

Also scored 4 boost rims which I have been on the hunt for, now I just need one more for the spare.

2 hrs drive back home and I think it's time for bed.
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  #31  
Old September 28th, 2013, 09:48 AM
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Yeah do yourself a favor and ditch those lug nuts and buy the older lug nuts that came on RRC's for alloy wheels. They're all steel with no caps. I switched to them when basically the same thing that happened to you happened to me and I realized I didn't want to have to deal with that on the side of the road if I ever got a flat tire!
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  #32  
Old September 28th, 2013, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Yeah do yourself a favor and ditch those lug nuts and buy the older lug nuts that came on RRC's for alloy wheels. They're all steel with no caps. I switched to them when basically the same thing that happened to you happened to me and I realized I didn't want to have to deal with that on the side of the road if I ever got a flat tire!

Totally agree with you. After chiseling off a number of the caps, there is no way I will be putting those crap two piece nuts on EVER! I can't imagine trying to deal with that type of situation on the road or trail.

Picked up a box of the older nuts already and although they aren't too pretty they'll do for now.
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  #33  
Old September 28th, 2013, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
Totally agree with you. After chiseling off a number of the caps, there is no way I will be putting those crap two piece nuts on EVER! I can't imagine trying to deal with that type of situation on the road or trail. Picked up a box of the older nuts already and although they aren't too pretty they'll do for now.
Nothing a wire brush and some paint won't fix.
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  #34  
Old October 2nd, 2013, 12:18 AM
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Salisbury Rebuild Advice.

When I purchased this truck the Rear Diff was out of the axle and all I had was a container with some parts, I think must have come out of it.

So I've refinished the axle and now am getting all the bits together to rebuild it, or at least attempt it.

Figuring out the bearings that are needed seems pretty straight forward but where I'm getting confused is all the seals, crush washers etc around the pinion. I've seen that there is a new and an old style seal kit but none of the parts I have seem to match up with the diagrams I'm seeing online. Can anyone help straighten me out? Can I just buy the newer upgrade kit?

It also appears I'm missing the differential stiffener plate RTC845 and the bolt on brackets for the brake lines and some part called a 3way junction bracket. Not sure If I actually need any of these parts? This is all based off diagrams I'm seeing from suppliers.

Here are some pics of what I have.
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  #35  
Old October 7th, 2013, 06:26 PM
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The bracket on top of the axle where the A arm mounts is hens teeth. (edit, nevermind you have it elsewhere as it is shown earlier in the thread).
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  #36  
Old October 16th, 2013, 12:30 AM
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Custom Floors and other goodies

Well today was a bit exciting, I got a call from my buddy who runs a metal shop, letting me know that my rear tub floor and 2nd row passenger floor were ready for pick up.

I took all the dimensions off my existing tub, did a vector drawing and shot it over to him a month ago. I beefed the floor thickness up (probably a bit excessively) to 3/16" and also made it a once piece sheet. No water leaking through the cracks or flexy floor here. Did the same for the floor panel. If I got it right (I triple checked everything so here's hoping) I think it will be a pretty great upgrade. Could even perhaps crank a few extras out for others.....

Also took delivery of a seat-box that's in great shape and some new t-posts from Safari HP. I guess with all the other things I'm repairing it's ok to take the easy way out and buy a few new things.

Now I need to do one big parts order for the remaining bits for my diff/axle/hub rebuilds.
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  #37  
Old October 16th, 2013, 06:06 PM
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Those new floor pieces look great. are you using custom floor supports as well?
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  #38  
Old October 16th, 2013, 06:11 PM
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Wow...that's beefy!
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  #39  
Old October 16th, 2013, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fearnofish View Post
Those new floor pieces look great. are you using custom floor supports as well?
I plan to use stock ones at the moment. Galvanizing the cross supports and getting some lengthwise YRM metal supports since my old ones were totally destroyed.

Probably could have made something fancy, but the old style supports will be more than adequate. Could almost not use the lengthwise ones as the floor is so much stiffer, but I will.
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  #40  
Old October 16th, 2013, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
Totally agree with you. After chiseling off a number of the caps, there is no way I will be putting those crap two piece nuts on EVER! I can't imagine trying to deal with that type of situation on the road or trail.

Picked up a box of the older nuts already and although they aren't too pretty they'll do for now.

I just saw this.
Wish I'd posted this video sooner!

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