D90 TD5 conversion to LS2 (Australia) - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 6th, 2016, 11:01 PM
Psimpson7
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Pete Simpson
2014 D90, 2001 D90, 1983 Stage 1 v8
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D90 TD5 conversion to LS2 (Australia)

Having recently suffered a more serious engine issue with the TD5 engine in this, I decided to do something about it rather than just rebuild the TD5.





This is a late 2001 90, which I have owned for 14 years, buying it with 11000miles on the clock.

Its gone through a lot of changes over the years, and is fairly well set up now for the use it gets which varies from being parked in my garage, crashing through creek beds and also outback travel in Australia where I live nowdays.

Spec list is pretty long so I wont bore people with that, but the main points are Underdrive, cage, lockers, up-rated driveline, etc etc.

This wont be a super fast build as I am fitting it in when I have time but I will update with progress as I go.

------ Follow up post added September 7th, 2016 02:08 PM ------

So first step was to get one of Nicks Adaptors, and the 4wd output housing as all the 6l80's here are from RWD cars:



Also got a Lokar shifter:



Truck Sump:



I was looking around for engines and boxed at this stage. There were plenty of manuals available, but a distinct lack of autos. I had my name down at a couple of places. I was offered a 100k km setup out of a water damaged Ute, but turned that down with some concerns about the water causing issues (it ran fine)

I then got offered the engine and box out of this. a 2015 VF SS commodore. Its an L77 (LS2) and has only done 37k km





Got that home. complete with BCM, ECU, Throttle, cats, loom, etc etc.



Converting it to 2wd following UL1700's thread!

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  #2  
Old September 6th, 2016, 11:15 PM
RBBailey
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I've just put a 300Tdi in my 110, but I'm still secretly interested in the LS conversions.
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1988 Saudi 110 (soon to be 300tdi)
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  #3  
Old September 6th, 2016, 11:18 PM
Psimpson7
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Started to set up the mounts for the engine and box. I cant actually use the mount setup on the adaptor as the TD5 chassis has a different setup to the earlier Defenders so I have some bits being made up at the moment.

Same with the engine mounts. I am trying to work out how high / low it needs to be at the moment. Anyone have a reference measurement for where they have fitted theres?





Kwik performance alternator / ps bracket:





This is where I am at the moment,

I am going to speak to Speartech I think and get a custom loom made.

I also need to look into whether I need to turn the inlet manifold around like most people seem to.

Will have to do some searching to find the steps involved
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  #4  
Old September 7th, 2016, 11:42 AM
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Landy_Andy
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Flipping the intake is just for the taller truck intakes I believe, I can give you the dimension from the top of the front x-member to top of the front crank pulley if that helps ?

------ Follow up post added September 7th, 2016 09:46 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
I cant actually use the mount setup on the adaptor as the TD5 chassis has a different setup to the earlier Defenders so I have some bits being made up at the moment.
You should talk to Nick, I can see TD5's becoming more popular so he might have some thing in the works already, if not yours might be the development mule
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  #5  
Old September 7th, 2016, 02:51 PM
Psimpson7
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Thanks Andy, that measurement would be great of you had it available. (along with the diamater of the pulley just in case they are different!
The position left to right would be interesting to know as well!
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  #6  
Old September 7th, 2016, 03:12 PM
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Omar Alomar
2000 D110 CSW 6.2 LS (was TD5)
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I'll be starting the LS conversion for my td5 in a couple of months and didn't decide on trans mounts yet.
Regarding the engine, I'll use Nick's jig. Regarding the trans, I would first try to use the most of the existing mounts as the td5s Lt230 sits exactly in the same location as the NAS. If that didn't work, I'll cut the td5 trans mounts and fit the d1 mounts, though I may have to drill in the chassis.

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  #7  
Old September 7th, 2016, 07:52 PM
Psimpson7
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Pete Simpson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omero View Post
I'll be starting the LS conversion for my td5 in a couple of months and didn't decide on trans mounts yet.
Regarding the engine, I'll use Nick's jig. Regarding the trans, I would first try to use the most of the existing mounts as the td5s Lt230 sits exactly in the same location as the NAS. If that didn't work, I'll cut the td5 trans mounts and fit the d1 mounts, though I may have to drill in the chassis.

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The mount on the LT side will bolt straight on using all the TD5 items. I have that one on.

The other side won't. The 4 bolt spacing on the td5 setup is very different to the 4 bolt spacing on the earlier ones and therefore the adaptor. I have pretty much every type of mount here and have done some fiddling to see if I could find a quick way to do it.

Cutting the chassis mount off and fitting the full earlier type setup would work after drilling holes to suit. I may revert to this if I run out of options.

The engine mounts would have to be cut off totally to use Nicks setup and they would need to be the weld on ones.

My chassis is galvanised which is one reason I am trying to use bolt on stuff as much as possible. Also a mate has a CNC VMC so he is making me some 6061 mounts for the engine to use the superpro 1887k bushes today



The lower part will bolt into the TD5 chassis mounts and I have a quote in at the laser cutters for those and a few other bits at the moment, but these may change when I get the height confirmed for the engine which I am still not 100% on yet.
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  #8  
Old September 8th, 2016, 01:58 PM
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Thank you Pete, very helpful info.

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  #9  
Old September 8th, 2016, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
Thanks Andy, that measurement would be great of you had it available. (along with the diamater of the pulley just in case they are different!
The position left to right would be interesting to know as well!
Going to have to lift the rad back out to get you accurate dimensions, so will have to be at the weekend.

BTW, On your engine mount, could the chassis side plate be flat with a turned down lip on the engine side and a turned up on the frame side, would be easier to bend and stiffer too. The engine side mount could be plate and DOM tube also, save some $$ there if you make a few up
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  #10  
Old September 8th, 2016, 11:33 PM
Psimpson7
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Pete Simpson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
Going to have to lift the rad back out to get you accurate dimensions, so will have to be at the weekend.

BTW, On your engine mount, could the chassis side plate be flat with a turned down lip on the engine side and a turned up on the frame side, would be easier to bend and stiffer too. The engine side mount could be plate and DOM tube also, save some $$ there if you make a few up
Appreciate it! Hopefully thats not too much of a pain!

I have a few versions of the chassis plate side of the mount. I was worried about having room with it being flat. Once i know that I am in the ballpark for the engine location I will see what I can do.

Handily these bits didn't cost me anything! (The mountings are recessed for capheads but I didnt have any when i test fitted these) Ive had LH and RH versions of these made for the engine and a similar one for the adpator mount.

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  #11  
Old September 12th, 2016, 08:00 PM
Psimpson7
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Pete Simpson
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Hey Andy,

Did you have any luck with the dimensions from your car? If not no worries.

bit more progress for me. Had a quick go at making a mount for the adaptor side. Only tacked together for now so I can adjust it as required.




Tried to order a harness from Speartech but there are no international shipping options so have emailed them to ask how to order.

I have also ordered a set of the hooker 8501hkr manifolds from a supplier here in Australia. Cost a bloody fortune!
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  #12  
Old September 12th, 2016, 10:10 PM
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Landy_Andy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
Hey Andy, Did you have any luck with the dimensions from your car? If not no worries.
Sorry no... didn't get chance to pull it out. Here is how mine is sitting.



Try to get to it this week for you.
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  #13  
Old September 13th, 2016, 07:05 PM
Psimpson7
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Thanks for the pic Andy. I don't think mine is far off that but it can be hard to tell sometimes!

Made a bit more progress last night.

Firstly we pulled the sump off the 6l80e, and then removed the valve body/TCM which we then stipped down as needed by Speartech.

Sorry the first pic isnt very good. It was dark!





Spotless inside the auto!



Pulley and PS pump arrived so I put that on and fitted it to see how it looks.



I also spoke to Justin and Johnny at Speartech and have ordered the loom to suit. I have separated the TCM now from the valve body and will get the TCM part and ECM posted tomorrow I hope.

Making some progress which is good!
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  #14  
Old September 13th, 2016, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
Thanks for the pic Andy. I don't think mine is far off that but it can be hard to tell sometimes! to see how it looks.
Here you go, had a brain wave and measured under the frame rails for the height....

So, front pulley is 195mm dia, from left inside of frame rail to edge of pulley is 245mm, right inside of frame rail to edge of pulley is 195mm and from bottom of frame rails to edge of pulley is 30mm. For the bottom I measured from the face of the lower bolt boss on the steering box (almost flush with frame rail) to the lower face of the frame rail on the opposite side.

Hope that makes sense....
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  #15  
Old September 13th, 2016, 08:50 PM
Psimpson7
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2014 D90, 2001 D90, 1983 Stage 1 v8
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Much appreciated Andy! I will check mine later!
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  #16  
Old September 13th, 2016, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
Much appreciated Andy! I will check mine later!
Comparing the two front pic's, yours seems to be sitting a bit higher... looks like the bottom on the front pulley is towards the top of the frame rails.
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  #17  
Old December 8th, 2016, 07:49 PM
Psimpson7
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Ok, I have been a bit slack updating this thread. I have made quite a lot of progress.

I faffed around for a while with various OEM Exhaust manifolds.

The car manifolds are cast and quite compact. Unfortunately not quite compact enough. I ended up buying the hooker ones

Not very good comparison photo of the overall manifold size between the factory ones and the replacement ones



Reduction in flange offset:





Passenger one fitted (hard to get a pic of the other one due to stuff in the way):



One downside to these is the fact that the flange is a different angle to the originals.

------ Follow up post added December 9th, 2016 11:51 AM ------

Had some more bits arrive.

New sump for the 6L80 which holds about 1.7litres more than the factory sump




Wide mouth filter:



Throttle Pedal:

[img:]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v707/Psimpson7/Y871/20160920_153828.jpg[/img]



Had the steel work for the engine mounts arrive.



new wiring looms, and my reprogrammed e38/t43 ecms



------ Follow up post added December 9th, 2016 11:54 AM ------

I then set about sorting this DOD stuff.

Removing the heads:









Waterpump also removed.



Timing cover removed after taking off the harmonic balancer:



Oil pump:



Oil pump removed:



Timing gear and Camshaft removed:



Valve springs/collets changed from the standard ones to LS3 ones which can cope with more lift



------ Follow up post added December 9th, 2016 11:55 AM ------

Replacement camshaft (standard ls3 6.2 cam) arrived
Note LS2 damper, as opposed to LS3 tensioner. It really is as basic as it looks!





New lifters and buckets.





Refitting the heads:



------ Follow up post added December 9th, 2016 11:57 AM ------

More progress



Oil cooler manifold for the Auto. Oil cooler sits in front of the Radiator.



For now I have the standard TD5 radiator in place. Will see how it copes. I have a 16" spal fan on order to help with the cooling.



The bare LT230 has now been swapped out for a complete one which has been rebuilt with the heavyduty Ashcroft cross pin, and a sleeved intermediate shaft.
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  #18  
Old December 8th, 2016, 08:00 PM
Psimpson7
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couple more pics:



Front prop UJ clearance!

I fitted the propshaft the other day, then I was annoyed it was filthy so removed it, cleaned it and refitted in with new nuts and bolts again!









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  #19  
Old December 8th, 2016, 08:18 PM
Psimpson7
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I currently have an issue with the Lokar shifters cable and the mounts from Nicks kit not seemingly having enough range of movement to allow the selector on the box move through its range of position or actually reach the most forward position on the box (Park I assume)

This is with the selector on the box all the way forward, The threaded section for mounting on the cable wont actually line up with the mount fitted to the box. (the shifter end isn't connected in this pic)

At the moment this has me stumped!





Ignore the other cable end poking through the seatbox face. Thats the Underdrive selector cable and nothing to do with this one.
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  #20  
Old December 8th, 2016, 08:33 PM
Psimpson7
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And I actually have a question aswell on the gauges.

I was initially going to try and use the standard gauges but have decided it may just be easier to do something different.

I dont really like the look of the oval dash people are setting into the defender binnacles so want to avoid going down that route, But I like the fact its canbus. I prefer the std style instruments.

So I have been looking at the Speedhut instruments.

I am currently looking at the following. all set with GT style text, bar tick style and the stealth black rings

4" GPS Speedometer 180km/h Metric / SKU: GRM4-GPS-05 (saved me needing to run wiring to the Sensor in the LT and then have to sort tyre size issues etc)

2-1/16" Fuel Level Gauge (programmable) (w/ warning) / SKU: GR-FUELLEV-01 (I will get the sensor for this aswell)

And these 4 which are canbus so I can run them through the OB2 port

4" Freedom CAN-BUS Tachometer 8K RPM Shift-light. Auto With Shift-light From Speedhut.

2-1/16" Freedom CAN-BUS Water Temp Gauge 50-125C Metric. Auto CAN-bus (OBDII) From Speedhut.

2-1/16" Freedom CAN-BUS Trans Temp Gauge 60-150C Metric (w/ warning) (For GM vehicles only). Auto CAN-bus (OBDII) From Speedhut.)

2-1/16" Freedom CAN-BUS Oil Pressure Gauge 0-100psi (w/ warning) (For GM vehicles only). Auto CAN-bus (OBDII) From Speedhut.)

Has anyone else used these? I see that the oil pressure gauge and the trans temp gause specify GM only whereas the Rev counter, and water temp dont say this.

Does anyone know if this is going to be an issue? I have the standalone loom from Speartech. I will email them and ask but as I am in Australia and have already made a few mistakes with ordering some wrong parts some first hand comments would be awesome!
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