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D90 LS3/6L80 Conversion

67K views 314 replies 43 participants last post by  Curtisbranch 
#1 · (Edited)
Meet Vizzini. 1988 ROW LHD 90 from Sicily. 19J, 5spd, 70k KM, no rust, new paint and basic interior. I bought him because the seats match my boots. Perfect for Texas!

Actually, I was looking for a solid truck that had the right look, but needed mechanical work. I also have two other LRs that play utilitarian roles. My S3 109 (Montoya) ferries guests from the train station to our home in NY and regularly makes local trips to farmers markets and other wifey requirements. Fezzik is pure off-road fun with a 2" lift and a power upgrade.

Given Vizzini will be mainly highway, urban and only light off-road work (traversing the in-laws Texas ranch and Cibolo creek access for creek "sit and drink" parties), he is more built for speed. So far, I've:

1. Lowered him 2" with new 2" lowering springs
2. Replaced the shocks and stabilizer with Bilsteins
3. Replaced the steps with side bars and step bumper
4. Replaced the stock wheels with 18x8 alloy saw tooths and BFG 285/65R-18 KO2 tires
5. Made a few other cosmetic changes that fit with my style better

Plans are to replace the 19J diesel with an LS3/6L80 from a 2012 Camaro. I just bought the drive train, Nicks adapter, motor mounts, brackets, etc. and will start the conversion once the drivetrain arrives. This thread will be my documentation of the build. Here are some pics:
 

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#2 ·
Here are a couple shots of the springs/shocks:
 

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#4 ·
Thanks, Brian, I'll check it carefully. Particularly since it is lowered. I know the 4L80 has clearance issues, but the 6L80 (completely different design) is thinner and I didn't think there would be interference issues. I'll inspect it before I drive it.
 
#5 ·
The driveshaft hits the oil pan casting and also on the trans bell housing. We lowered two trucks and both had six speeds so just be careful
 
#8 ·
lol, thank my daughter. She named the 109 "Montoya" as it is a Santana from Spain.

Vizzini just made sense as it is Sicilian and will have a brain (ecu).

Fezzik is special to me as my wife bought it for me when we lived in London and we had to sell it when she became ill. After she passed, I managed to find it again in the U.S. earlier this year.

There will be no Buttercup!
 
#9 ·
Finished up the exterior lighting and some cosmetics. He's heading to the inspection station and Texas registration next week!

I've figured out my fuel and cooling systems for the LS3 upgrade. Pictures on that will follow. I was thrilled when I inspected my fuel tank and discovered it had a welded in baffle or fuel pump well already from the factory. Makes things much easier.
 

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#10 ·
Oh sorry, Rich, missed your questions. I'm doing the swap myself here in TX. I'll be using a Lokar shifter with a brushed aluminum 5sp knob both so I can keep my custom shifter gator and just to be different.
 

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#11 · (Edited)
I worked up a step-by-step list for this conversion. I plan on documenting it here just because it is fun and someone might benefit. I usually benefit the most from my mistakes along the way, so perhaps this will help others.

Here is my checklist. I used Nick's list in the adapter thread and built on it. I'll reference this list by step number along the way and I'd love any suggestions or changes you see if you take the time to read through all of it. This is for my conversion of a 1988 D90 with a turbo diesel (19J) and LT77 to an L99/6L80 from a 20k mile 2012 Camaro.

Some install tips and order:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, remove the hood and front grill. Drain and remove the radiator, surge tank and all brackets. Capture all fasteners and small parts in ziplock bags labeled with a sharpie.

2. Disconnect the prop. shafts, e-brake cable, speedometer cable, throttle cable and all electrical connections, carefully labeling each wire with masking tape. Disconnect and drain the clutch master cylinder at the slave. Once drained, seal the slave. Clutch fluid will remove paint almost immediately!

3. Drain and disconnect the power steering reservoir and pump, sealing all pump connections.

4. Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines at the lift pump and remove the firewall mounted filter, lines and fuel tank.

5. Connect an engine hoist with an engine leveler to the engine and ensure it is properly connected to four SECURE points, two on the front and two on the rear of the engine. Adjust the leveler so that the engine hoist lifting hook is as close to the rear of the engine as possible and use the hoist to take all the slack out of the leveler lifting chains. Remove the crossmember and unbolt the four mounts holding the engine and transmission to the chassis. A floor jack may be helpful in lifting the transmission enough to clear the mounts until you can move the whole assembly forward with the hoist. Remove the engine and transmission as a unit.

6. Remove the steering box and rebuild or replace as required, reinstalling a leak free unit (you know the original has leaked for years!) after step #7.

7. Inspect the engine bay, removing any items not required (old mounts, brackets, diesel components, clutch master and pedal, etc.). Weld in the new frame motor mounts, clean the engine bay, install the clutch block off plate and prime/paint as required. Now is the time to make it spiffy!

8. Remove the exhaust manifolds from the LS3. You will end up slamming them into the steering linkage on the way in. It also gives you access to the engine mounts. The stock exhaust manifolds are discarded.

9. Remove the intake manifold. It needs to be rotated 180 degrees anyway. Too much risk of getting damaged. NOTE: Not if LS3 donor from car.

10. Remove any shifter linkage (transfer case and transmission) These can be installed from the tunnel opening.

11. Install the harness on the engine and connect the transmission connector prior to bolting up the LT230. The transfer case traps the transmission electrical connector.

12. Leave the engine mounts (Energy Suspension and aluminum plate) loose to allow alignment.

13. Leave the power steering pump off until engine has been installed. Too much risk smashing it on the steering box.

14. Install the adapter onto the transmission first. Then the LT230 onto the adapter. Don't forget the two alignment dowels between the adapter and LT230. Also, the two 40mm bolts need sealant as they are open to gear oil. The tail housing is dry, so no gaskets required there. Good time to install a new input shaft seal in the LT230.

15. If possible, drop in the engine/transmission/LT230 in one shot. Else, engine/transmission in one shot.

16. Level the engine and bolt the engine, TC, and adapter frame mounts to torque spec. Bolt up the prop. shafts and check for clearance (in a lowered vehicle, the best approach is to disconnect the front prop. shaft at the differential and move it up and down through the normal arc travelled during suspension movement to ensure clearance). Adjust or trim any obstacles such as the transmission bell housing and oil pan. Install the motor mount heat shields.

17. Reinstall or fabricate as required a new crossmember. If fabricating, adjust as required to optimize exhaust routing (step 19).

18. Install the modified fuel tank with in tank pump and new sender. Install filter/regulator on firewall, fabricate twist lock hoses and install supply, return and fuel rail feed. Secure all fuel lines safely, shielding from heat and any potential debris from the wheels.

19. Install headers and fabricate the exhaust system, carefully removing or isolating any electronics (ecu, etc) before welding. Tack on the car and remove each section for final welding, reinstalling each section after final welding to ensure proper fit.

20. Connect the Speartech modified harness connections, install fuses and relay, and connect to vehicle electrical system as required.

21. Configure accessory brackets, alternator, PS pump and A/C compressor as required to clear chassis, install and tension belt. Connect lines to power steering pump, reservoir, and steering box.

22. Install radiator, fan(s) and surge tank, fabricate and install all hoses to radiator, surge tank and heater ensuring all fittings and clamps are tight. Install the intake hose and filter, refitting the MAF sensor.

23. Install transmission cooler and run lines to transmission, securing them and shielding from any hazards.

24. Install A/C condenser and connect all A/C lines.

25. Install shifter, TC linkage and new gauges.

26. Double check everything!

27. Fill all fluids, bleed cooling system, reconnect negative cable, look for smoke (hey, it still has some Lucas components), and start the engine. NOTE: my wife now requires all first starts to happen outside the garage. Ever since the engine in the Cobra shot a fireball out of the carburetor due to the distributor being installed 180 out. Oops. For the record, it was a small fireball.

28. Take a short test drive before reinstalling the tunnel, hood, and other body parts removed for the conversion. Check for leaks, rubbing, and all other paranoid concerns created by a conversion of this magnitude.

29. Drink.

30. Well, that's all there is to it. A weekends worth of work...okay, so probably 100 hours if you are a reasonable shade tree, have the right parts and tools when you need them and don't get interrupted too many times or suffer from "whileIwasinthere" syndrome.
 
#12 ·
Wow! That was a lot of words. Here's a couple pics of the Cobra with the wife just to break the monotony.
 

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#13 ·
Just waiting on the tank six hole gasket to complete my LS tank set up. I used a stock sender with the low fuel light and a Tanks fuel pump set up that includes the correct Walbro pump. Just have to trim the supply side to length and it is ready to go. I did have to redrill the tank for the six hole mount vs. the standard five hole, but no big deal. Gasket should be here Friday. I have a feeling lack of parts will delay me more than anything else.
 

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#15 ·
Thanks, John!

You can imagine my concern at hoisting that small block 427 and tko600 over that beautiful aluminum coach work. There was a large pucker factor which I believe is what she was smiling about. She barely tolerates all my cars (currently 7) I sold the Cobra and bought the 904. She is happy when they go and irritated when they arrive. I don't even tell her anymore, just share the balance sheet, keeping the tally positive since I met her. Hard to argue with that!
 
#16 ·
Got the gasket today (got to love Summit) and finished up the tank. I used the old hammer and blade trick on the sender locking ring.

The engine/tranny should be here this week. I have to clean out the garage and make a space for the 90. I'd like to get started in early July. My goal is to finish in a month which means it should be just about finished by 2018.
 

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#17 · (Edited)
It's a glorious day here in San Antonio!

My 20k mile 2012 Camaro drivetrain showed up. I had to park it behind the 904 until I can get the middle bay cleaned out and the defender backed in. I have a bunch of work to do before I'm ready anyway. First up is removing the wiring harness for a trip north, swapping out the oil pan, changing the tranny to 4wd and tearing down the engine to be ready for the install.

Most important, it arrived safely!
 

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#22 ·
Close! It has a 3.0 from a 78 911 that I rebuild into a 3.2ss with 98mm cylinders, large port twin plug heads and DC80 cams. It is scary to drive.

Now, the 1995 993 engine is in the 1975 911 currently in the middle bay. Here are a couple of engine shots for your drooling pleasure. First the 904, then the 911:
 

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#23 ·
Ok, I started prepping my L99 for the install. I removed the wiring harness to send off to Speartech. I also changed the oil pan, removed the exhaust manifolds and front accessories, and installed the 6L80 -6 coolant manifold. All in all a pretty good day, but mother of god was it hot! 98 in the shade. This is my version of hot yoga!

Check out the difference in the oil pans. They both appear to be rear sump until you compare side to side. I also discovered that the oil cooler actually uses coolant from the radiator to cool the small heat exchanger on the side of the oil pan. It flows from the freeze plug port on the left side of the block, through the heat exchanger and back to the radiator. I'm pointing to the port on the block in the picture.
 

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#25 ·
Called Rob at The Parts Farm. They advertise on eBay, but they have a Facebook page and most things are cheaper direct (not on eBay). I have a friend, Mark Houlihan, who is an editor at Mustangs Monthly who recommended Rob. I wanted a complete package, low mileage, 2012 or newer (staying Gen IV). They usually sell complete pallets with brakes, entire wiring harness, fuel tank, etc. I speced only what I needed. Remember, everything is negotiable!
 
#26 ·
Oh, btw if you purchase the rear sump truck oil pan speced in the BOM, it comes with the oil cooler block off already installed. The oil cooler is a great design by GM. It mounts to the oil pan with only one coolant hose connection to the block and one more to the radiator. You can also bolt it to the truck pan if you don't have clearance issues with your truck.
 
#28 ·
Funny you mention the auto. I plan on installing a 5sp knob on my Lokar shifter, mainly because it will not immediately remind me that I lost the manual, but also so the knobs match and it would briefly confuse anyone not authorized to drive my baby. I thought about leaving the clutch pedal installed and hooking up a self-destruct feature in the event someone depresses it, but decided that might be a bit obsessive and somewhat overkill. I will admit to thinking about it for a good bit.
 
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