Converting 95 ST to SW - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old December 18th, 2007, 02:49 PM
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Kris
Alpine White 95 Soft Top
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Jim,

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I guess I didn't realize that the fiberglass top actually stood off from the sides to accept the roll bar protrusions.

Thanks again.
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  #22  
Old December 18th, 2007, 08:42 PM
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Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themaxx
LOL, way to ruin Christmas, I suppose there's no Santa too...JERK!
Talk about a downer..
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  #23  
Old April 5th, 2009, 07:51 PM
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Jim Cheney
NAS 110 #145
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Continuing to make this thing more like a station wagon - I got a set of the doors that Stephen is selling, stripped them down, had them painted, and put them on the truck. Wow, what an improvement over the soft top doors - they don't leak from the door studs and wow - so much quieter. I like the sliders, but we're going to run these for a while. I'm also succeeding in getting the next generation involved!

I just need some pix of the finished project...
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  #24  
Old April 5th, 2009, 08:10 PM
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Tom
1994 ST D90
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WOW!
cant wait to see the final product once its all put together and great job on documenting your build Jim.
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  #25  
Old April 5th, 2009, 09:08 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Oh, and after almost 2 years, I've got a seal on my lift gate too! Its pretty simple really, I attached a 5mm strip of ABS plastic to the underside of the gate using 3M trim tape, and then used the trim tape again to attach a piece of weather stripping. Works great.
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  #26  
Old April 5th, 2009, 09:54 PM
budz
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sal gorriceta
various rovers
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Jim, Nice doors and are you selling your st doors? Thanks

Sal
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  #27  
Old April 5th, 2009, 10:04 PM
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Nope - keeping the ST doors! They were new 2 years ago, so I'm sticking them in a box and keeping them with the rest of the cage.
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  #28  
Old October 26th, 2010, 10:58 PM
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Scott Y
95 D90 SW, 2003 Disco II, 93 D110
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Jim,

I have a question on your seals on the top of the tub. I am getting ready to lift my 110 hardtop to replace the seals, did you use a sealant on the top and bottom of the new foam seal or did you install them dry?

Thanks in advance,

Scott
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  #29  
Old October 27th, 2010, 12:25 AM
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Jim Cheney
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If you are talking about the seal between the roof sides and tub cappings, then they work like this.

The seal is a very thick dense rubber. It has adhesive and sticks to the bottom of the roof sides and compresses as you tighten the nuts down on the pegs. You don't put any sealant in there and once you see how much pressure is required to properly compress the seal, you'll see why.
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  #30  
Old May 30th, 2012, 04:45 PM
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Joshua
1995 Black ST - Rhinolined edition
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
Continuing to make this thing more like a station wagon - I got a set of the doors that Stephen is selling, stripped them down, had them painted, and put them on the truck. Wow, what an improvement over the soft top doors - they don't leak from the door studs and wow - so much quieter. I like the sliders, but we're going to run these for a while. I'm also succeeding in getting the next generation involved!

I just need some pix of the finished project...
So do you have to convert the striker pin on the truck to a different type and lower it or to a different location or anything like that? I thought I recalled having to do some mod to the truck to make the SW door strike properly on the ST. I just bought a set of SW doors and was going to try them out, and just getting a list of parts together (things missing like exterior door handles, inside window crank, bolts to hold together window regulator frame, interior door card screws, speaker spacer for when I cut a pair of speakers into it, hinge shims, etc.). There may be a better thread a bit further down in my search, but started with this one.
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  #31  
Old May 30th, 2012, 08:34 PM
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Eric Doxey
1995 Defender 90
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God I want a yellow SW
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  #32  
Old May 31st, 2012, 09:02 AM
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Dave Lucas
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You need new door strikers but your NAS 90 should already have the holes. If you look at the door jamb you will see 3 holes in a triangle shape.

Purchased my parts from RDS and safarirover
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  #33  
Old May 31st, 2012, 09:27 AM
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Jim Cheney
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Confirming - new strikers required. Holes already present in the NAS tub. Dont forget to get the backing plate.
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  #34  
Old May 31st, 2012, 09:46 AM
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Joshua
1995 Black ST - Rhinolined edition
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Awesome, thanks! Yeah I was looking at the extra holes at the front of my tub the other day and figured a new striker pin configured to those holes was necessary. Thanks for confirming, guys! I'm putting together an order for RDS for some other things and wanted to include these bits in the order as well. Appreciate the help!

So are these bits for the backing plate? Or is these for the interior side of the hinges?
Genuine Land Rover
Door fasteners 90 & 110
BYG100140L $2.00
BYG100150L $1.75
BYG100160L $1.50
BYG100170L $2.00
Captive nut
ASR1459 $2.00
MUC9110 $7.50

Two exterior door handles - need to soure locks:
90/110 Station Wagon
Front Door Handle
Left MXC7651 $44.00
Right MXC7652 $44.00

Two of these strikers aka striker pins and door striker screws:
Station Wagon Door
Striker FQB500130 $12.00
Spacer MUC7809 $2.50
90/110 Station Wagon
Door striker screw
BYP100270 $1.00

4 door hinge shims
2 SW window roll-up regulator arms:
Handle Window Regulator
DBP6287PMA $8.00
2 SW speaker spacers
2 Interior door pull handles
15(?) interior door trim screws

I guess it may also be good to have some spare window guide clips:
Genuine Land Rover
Station Wagon Doors
Window Guide Clip
MWC4371 $2.00
Window Guide Button
CUC100140 $2.00

What's up with the Door handle trims? I'm assuming this is a finisher for the interior door latch mechanism?
Genuine Land Rover
Door handle trim
STC617 $6.00

I think I have everything else.
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  #35  
Old May 31st, 2012, 04:36 PM
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Randy
2015 LR4
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I believe I have some speaker spacers for sale if u need them.
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  #36  
Old May 31st, 2012, 04:45 PM
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Joshua
1995 Black ST - Rhinolined edition
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yes please. Sent you a PM.
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