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  #361  
Old August 10th, 2013, 02:07 PM
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Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
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One more with bonnet in place. At least an inch overlap as you can see by the shadow line
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #362  
Old August 10th, 2013, 09:02 PM
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Success. The carpentry took about four hours, the marking and layout another hour, the cutting away the wing skin an hour and the bending maybe 15 minutes.
More fitting up tomorrow.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #363  
Old August 10th, 2013, 10:24 PM
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Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
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Nicely done Bill!

Please hang onto those templates for me.
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  #364  
Old August 12th, 2013, 06:36 AM
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Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
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I will bring them to HH. I think you'll want to move the line outward by 1/4 inch. That will give you just a smidgen more room between the brake booster and the wing.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #365  
Old August 13th, 2013, 08:14 PM
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Here's the newly machined hand brake cross shaft. Did it mostly by eye on dads Chinese bench lathe. Pos.
The handbrake gets bolted to the LH side of the chassis instead if going all the way across.
All I need to do is adapt the cable for the X Brake to the rod linkage. Nadda biggie.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #366  
Old August 14th, 2013, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Adapting the Series hand brake lever to the LT230? How about a layout/exploded view of how it works?

-Jeff
I don't have any diagram or plans. The handbrake for the Series LHD has a long cross shaft that spans the chassis. On each end is an oval bronze bush which slides onto the turned-down end of the shaft. These bushings are captured in a two-piece shell which is bolted to the shaft brackets. One bracket is attached to the inner side of the chassis on the left and on the right.
Since this config will foul the LT230, I have chosen to shorten the shaft and bolt both support brackets to the left inner side of the chassis.
This means that the bolts that run thru the bracket holes will need to be sleeved inside some properly sized spacers.
The handbrake is designed to pull on a rod linkage which in turn actuates a bell crank which in turn pulls on another rod that pulls on the expander inside the drum assembly.
Since I have an X Brake, I will use cable pull. That means instead of a dingle with a rod hole in it mounted to the lift handle, I will need a dingle with a clevis.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #367  
Old August 14th, 2013, 09:42 AM
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Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
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Translation: He took what you see in the second picture and shortened it, and will use it to pull the cable for the x-brake

http://myotherwoman.com/?p=34

I'd be doing the same if my tunnel width wasn't so wide.

The real question is what kind of idiot gave Bill a perfectly good handbrake assembly to butcher...
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  #368  
Old August 14th, 2013, 09:50 AM
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Skinny Pete
'84 90 "Yamelo"/'88 RRC "Chewbacca"
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It seems like it would be a whole lot easier to get the defender handbrake cable and defender handbrake handle that is designed to work with a cable and just be done with it. No it wouldn't look like the series part but you COULD weld the series handle to it if you were picky. Still it seems easier than all this mucking about
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  #369  
Old August 14th, 2013, 09:51 AM
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Nyuk nyuk nyuk...(twisting long curly mustachio...)
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #370  
Old August 14th, 2013, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
It seems like it would be a whole lot easier to get the defender handbrake cable and defender handbrake handle that is designed to work with a cable and just be done with it. No it wouldn't look like the series part but you COULD weld the series handle to it if you were picky. Still it seems easier than all this mucking about
Hm. Well first off I did want to keep the 2A theme going so yes, I woulda had to weld a handle onto the D one. As it is, the only real major mod other than the cross shaft will be to swap the pin that the rod fits into for a pin that the cable end fits over. And a ne cotter pin. That and some bit of bracket wizardry to act as a stop for the cable housing. I think the cable housing is designed to fit into a short bit of tube so that you can adjust it with a plastic wheel thingy.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #371  
Old August 18th, 2013, 10:37 AM
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Handy hand brake fab. Bracket from heavy angle stock. Turned down the old cross shaft to fit between the two plates. Bolt spacers keep the plates the correct distance apart. Plates bolt to bracket. Bracket bolts to chassis with 4 M10 rivnuts.
The metric Clevis is working on the lever pivot pin. At the brake it is a bolt doing the pin work for this mock up stage.
Haven't decided whether to galv all or paint. Leaning toward galv.
Placed seat box to see if I hit the measurements. Looks right to me.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #372  
Old August 18th, 2013, 10:47 AM
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One casualty of the X brake is the center storage box that goes in the seat box.
So even tho I have the original one, I'm going to have to use this Tuffy.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #373  
Old August 19th, 2013, 08:10 PM
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DIY zinc plating...

I found a pretty good home brew zinc plating electrolyte recipe here.
I'm gonna giv it a swing. I have zinc coming out my you-know-what as I have a bunch of sacrificial zincs for a boat that I don't have anymore. Those, the electrolye and a battery charger should get me adequate results.
Need to plate the handbrake hardware, a bunch of nut and stud plates, and if i can get them apart, all the door latches.
This instead of paint or galv.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #374  
Old August 20th, 2013, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I found a pretty good home brew zinc plating electrolyte recipe here.
Great website, interested to hear how you get on.

I PMed you.
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Diesels.....great when they're going and so easy to work on.
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  #375  
Old August 20th, 2013, 08:52 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Yeah this might be a good way to get zinc on small parts. Or be patient and throw some stuff in with my next galvy run.
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  #376  
Old August 25th, 2013, 05:30 PM
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Sort of an off weekend. Just painted parts.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #377  
Old August 31st, 2013, 06:41 PM
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Bill Adams
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Plating
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #378  
Old September 2nd, 2013, 11:14 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Cool. how did it come out?
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  #379  
Old September 2nd, 2013, 03:50 PM
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It's coming along. Takes more time and attention than I thought. Using flashlight batteries as power source. Doing a bunch of small stuff now. Nut plates and such. As you can see in the pic the brackets came out Ok after a long soak with only one D cell.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #380  
Old September 2nd, 2013, 04:52 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Yeah when I read that article I realized it's hours and hours of work. But there are some pieces I think it would be worth the effort for.
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