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  #321  
Old May 21st, 2013, 08:23 PM
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Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
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Brake lines plumbed! Jeezis that is some slow going. Bend, test, bend, test, bend, test, repeat.
That and the occaisional misdeed. Finally happy-ish with the mess. You see, I look at each line as a separate and distinct sculpture, becoming part of the larger rendering. As such I ate up Sunday, Monday and half of Tuesday on brake lines.

Also got the steering bracket thing worked out, designed, fabricated and welded. This bracket will bolt to the stock 2A steering column tube where it would have attached to the steering box. I went with the Flange mounted 3/4 inch bottom bearing (Mcmaster-Carr). This is attached to the underside of where the steering tube bolts. When I get to it, the steering shaft will ride in this bearing after welding a segment of 3/4-48 steering shaft to it.
Bracket is bolted to the bulkhead support thru the same holes that the steering box. Just marked 'em and drilled 'em. Looks like Ma Rover cooked it up.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

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  #322  
Old May 22nd, 2013, 01:39 PM
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John Dorr
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Bill, great work. Be careful with the steering column tube...it may be the photo but the way it sits may put the steering wheel too close to the glass of the windshield. You want the clamp (galv pieces in the dash) to be in about the same position they were originally- it looks in the photos like the tube has been slid down into the dash some?- John
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  #323  
Old May 22nd, 2013, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jopadorr View Post
Bill, great work. Be careful with the steering column tube...it may be the photo but the way it sits may put the steering wheel too close to the glass of the windshield. You want the clamp (galv pieces in the dash) to be in about the same position they were originally- it looks in the photos like the tube has been slid down into the dash some?- John
I think it's an optical illusion cz of the funny angle of the camera. I put the end of the steering tube at roughly the same position as if the steering box were there. I actually measured the old steering box, and the top of the flat part where the steering tube bolts is exactly 2 inches from the center of the arm pivot. I made the bracket so that the flat part was two inches from the center of the hole on the bulkhead support. Look at pic 2. Yes, i was holding the camera cockeyed, but you see where the steering tube sits on the bracket.
So, even if I need to make an adjustment, I need only pad the distance between the bracket and the steer tube. I will try it with the steering wheel in place. I will definitely measure it all again before final assembly. The bracket has threaded holes for studs. It need only hold the steer tube in place.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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  #324  
Old May 22nd, 2013, 03:13 PM
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I can do that. It's made from a piece of 3x4 galvy tube that was on one of my boat trailers. Fabrication took about an hour, but design took half the day. Now that the prototype is done, making copies isn't a big deal.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #325  
Old May 24th, 2013, 08:55 PM
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Got my shaft piece dropped on my doorstep today. Test fit the parts and got the total length. You can see how much stick out there is on the shaft. Rechecked the position of the wheel and all. It's within an eighth of the original position.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #326  
Old May 24th, 2013, 09:01 PM
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Bill Adams
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Test fit
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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  #327  
Old May 25th, 2013, 07:46 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Looking good. I have to do the same thing so will have to go back and re-read your posts on the steering stuff at some point!
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  #328  
Old June 1st, 2013, 09:37 PM
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Welded the steering tube. It came out pretty much dead straight. Took my time. Tacked it then cleaned up the tack. Rotated it and tacked again. Repeat numerous times.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #329  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 07:28 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Looks really good and straight. The prep/bevel work you did looks perfect. Were these shafts hardened like Pendy was saying?
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  #330  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 08:55 AM
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Charles Galpin
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I'm also interested in the hardening topic - how do you tell other than notice it harder to drill or something?

But this looks exactly how I would have approached it. You could sleeve it for added strength if concerned.
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  #331  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 01:11 PM
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disclaimer- I am not a welder or fabricator and am only interjecting myself into this in the name of safety, please feel free to debunk anything im posting, and im basing all of this on an opinon Ive formed from looking at phone pic LOL /disclaimer



What is tipping me off is the shine, while it could just be high carbon steel and not hardened either way its obviously not made of regular old, easily welded, mild steel. Not a very technical explanation I know but the point being- while you could in theory tack two sections of high carbon steel together (and keep them attached to one another well enough for mock up) in this manner it would be difficult- depending on experience and equipment- to get as strong a weld as you really need. Which is why I asked about the welder Bill was using in the other thread. If he chimes back in and says he is using some bad ass equipment and maybe that he preheated it, etc etc etc then yeah its probably fine. But if you took those two pieces of steel and tacked the hell out of them with a 120V harbor freight flux core MIG... thats probably not gonna work.

OK I went back and re-read in greater detail on an acutal computer instead of my phone and it is tough to tell from the picture if he is using a mild steel section of steering shaft there or maybe one made of 4130? Oh well if I end up with my foot in my mouth here at least I meant well
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  #332  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 04:05 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14 View Post
disclaimer- I am not a welder or fabricator and am only interjecting myself into this in the name of safety, please feel free to debunk anything im posting, and im basing all of this on an opinon Ive formed from looking at phone pic LOL /disclaimer



What is tipping me off is the shine, while it could just be high carbon steel and not hardened either way its obviously not made of regular old, easily welded, mild steel. Not a very technical explanation I know but the point being- while you could in theory tack two sections of high carbon steel together (and keep them attached to one another well enough for mock up) in this manner it would be difficult- depending on experience and equipment- to get as strong a weld as you really need. Which is why I asked about the welder Bill was using in the other thread. If he chimes back in and says he is using some bad ass equipment and maybe that he preheated it, etc etc etc then yeah its probably fine. But if you took those two pieces of steel and tacked the hell out of them with a 120V harbor freight flux core MIG... thats probably not gonna work.

OK I went back and re-read in greater detail on an acutal computer instead of my phone and it is tough to tell from the picture if he is using a mild steel section of steering shaft there or maybe one made of 4130? Oh well if I end up with my foot in my mouth here at least I meant well
I too am very wary of welding steering components. It's a complete no no this side of the pond.
If the shaft was between the steering wheel and the steering box there would be less force, but dragging the wheels about there's a lot of force being applied there. Should it fail...
After all the effort in this excellent build I'd go the extra mile and get something machined up from one piece of tube of appropriate grade.
Alternatively get the taps and cut the thread into an appropriate piece of tube. I think the thread is M16 fine but I might be wrong on that.
I was a little wary of the tack and grind method of welding too. I too am not a trained welder but isn't one continuous weld with good penetration far stronger?
Would a 90/110 tube fit the bill or be able to be cut down and tapped? The left hand tap in very expensive so don't trim that end.
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  #333  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
I too am very wary of welding steering components. It's a complete no no this side of the pond.
Agreed.

What steering component is this in the above pics?
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  #334  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 04:18 PM
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Your weld is fine, but you should sleeve it and add rosette welds. As for the main weld, a couple small tack welds to keep it straight, then one long hot pass all the way around. You want the heat and penetration that a tack can't get.
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  #335  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 05:29 PM
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Well I dunno.

First of all these old 2A steering shafts are certainly not made of anything special. The steel seems pretty soft to me. If there are any hardened bits they are probably the ends. The shaft is made of three pieces...the worm ball gear the shaft and the tapered threaded end for the wheel.
Since the effort to turn the wheel is taken by the hydraulic assist, the amount of twisting force the shaft needs to handle is pretty small.
I have spares to make another if this one goes south.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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All my troubles are Rover
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  #336  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 06:23 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I do agree you need good penetration at some point and not just tack welds all the way (or sleeve it). If you make the V deeper, you can do tack welds deep and then solid beads over it. I don't think it needs to be perfectly straight - as straight as you can keep it clamped in the V should be good enough in this application. SO tack it 4 places opposite each other and weld away while clamped and don't unclamp/rotate until fully cool.

This is between the steering gearbox and the steering wheel right?
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  #337  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 09:23 PM
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Trust me it is welded solidly all the way around. I ground the taper on each part to just about zero, so the weld fills all the thickness of the tube completely.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #338  
Old June 3rd, 2013, 08:06 AM
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Onward and upward, or at least sideways....
Began refitting the front cover and belt driven accessories and doing some test fitting of the AC. One small issue is that the old RRC Sanden 709 AC pump ports foul the 200 Tdi throttle. I guess I need some different ports or some way to unfoul the linkgage. In addition, I cannot seem to visualize the belt config. Does anyone out there have a 200 Tdi with AC that could show me their setup?

PS Found the tutorial from Paddock's on YouTube. I'm an idiot.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #339  
Old June 3rd, 2013, 09:47 AM
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1 inch of weld is equal to 1 ton

You should be fine.
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  #340  
Old June 3rd, 2013, 10:04 AM
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PM me if you still need a/c pics with your email...
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