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  #261  
Old January 11th, 2013, 10:51 AM
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Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
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I bought the Eastwood's bench tool. I must say that the tubing is not easy to double flare even with good tools. It is very soft and collapses the wrong way when making the first bulge. I am going to need more practice to get those just right. Not so much with the small tubing but on 5/16 ths it is a real PITA. I am using mostly metric fittings that take a DIN flare, which the Eastwood tool does very nicely and in a few seconds. The only place I have to do a double flare is on the clutch lines.
I'm gonna take a shot at the hydraulic lines for the Power Steering and winch using the 3/8 ths line.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #262  
Old January 15th, 2013, 11:33 AM
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I was all worried about making up the steering column for the conversion. Today I did a little research on 3/4 x 48 spline steering shaft components and holy cow! It appears that the Rover shares the shaft specs with the venerable VW Beetle, so there is an entire world of steering schmidt out there to make anything one could ever want, in chrome or stainless or plain steel or lime green or whatever. Slightly less worried about that aspect of the build now.
I think all I really need is the upper few inches of the Series shaft where it puffs out to 1" for the upper bearing and the steering wheel taper. This can be lopped off, turned down to slide inside a 48" 3/4-48 shaft and welded in. The rest is easy. I can put any number of different bearings in the bottom to locate the shaft in the steering tube, then a couple of U-joints and I am connected to the steering box. I do have the Disco 2 steering shaft assembly that includes a collapsing section, so I will try to get that to work first.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #263  
Old January 15th, 2013, 11:44 AM
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Skinny Pete
'84 90 "Yamelo"/'88 RRC "Chewbacca"
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Not that i have done this, but I have looked around a bit and there are very easy ways to do it. basically just use the whole series column with the end cut off and the box part removed. Make a bracket out of flat steel that holds a pillow block type bearing and also attaches it to the bulkhead. get a flaming river or whatever splined end, collapsible section, and u joints, and weld it to the series column steering shaft etc. There are pretty good pics I think on Guns and Rovers, all been done before without any real special fab other than turning down the end of the splined section so that it slides into the series column which is supposedly hollow inside. then just plug and seam weld the two together and don't sweat about it too much as they are not under alot of force. I'm sure those who have actually gone and done all that will chime in and correct all my misstatements

edit- link:

http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/s...ll=1#post16532

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I was all worried about making up the steering column for the conversion. Today I did a little research on 3/4 x 48 spline steering shaft components and holy cow! It appears that the Rover shares the shaft specs with the venerable VW Beetle, so there is an entire world of steering schmidt out there to make anything one could ever want, in chrome or stainless or plain steel or lime green or whatever. Slightly less worried about that aspect of the build now.
I think all I really need is the upper few inches of the Series shaft where it puffs out to 1" for the upper bearing and the steering wheel taper. This can be lopped off, turned down to slide inside a 48" 3/4-48 shaft and welded in. The rest is easy. I can put any number of different bearings in the bottom to locate the shaft in the steering tube, then a couple of U-joints and I am connected to the steering box. I do have the Disco 2 steering shaft assembly that includes a collapsing section, so I will try to get that to work first.
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  #264  
Old January 15th, 2013, 12:51 PM
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Bill Adams
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Yup seen all that. I think they look OK for the most part. I don't think a big pillow block bearing is quite the thing. It really only needs a bronze oilite bush at the bottom, but I will prolly use a sealed roller bearing. I am going to try to keep it all within the end of the Series steering shaft, and then bolt that to the to-be-fabbed bracket which will be similar to the ones Ike and greenmeanie made.
The remaining path from the end of the steering tube to the steering box is easy.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #265  
Old January 15th, 2013, 03:16 PM
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Mike Hammond
110 200Tdi and a 2005 Scorpa SY250
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When I built a series 2 coiler about 20 years ago I used a defender steering box and a defender steering column with all the brackets cut off. The column fitted the standard S11 bracketry in the cab. The collapsable shaft fitted too.
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  #266  
Old February 12th, 2013, 09:26 PM
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Two days of pushing pulling fitting and futzing. I guess it will never be 100.% square or lined up.
Worked on the seat box. Got that looking pretty good.
Cut a bunch of body shims from King Starboard but after final levering and cranking the tub and t pieces into place it looks like I won't need them. Oh well.
So one side ended up 3/8 longer than the other, but the long side lines up perfectly with the rear cross member, and the shorter side sticks past the cross member by a quarter inch or so. The tub is centered and squared. Can't explain it or figure it out.
Also none of the body mount holes line up. Bother!
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #267  
Old February 12th, 2013, 10:35 PM
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Brian Kandefer
1957 107 wagon, 94 arles St, 101 FC
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Looking awesome! Just saw this and spent the last hour from day one! I am Doing the same thing right now, not a full resto but pretty close mine is more a budget build. Great job, nothing is ever as easy as we think its gonna be.
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  #268  
Old February 13th, 2013, 05:49 AM
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You can say that again. What takes up a lot of time is figuring out how to clamp/pull/align parts.
Perhaps if I was working with all genuine 2A parts it would be somewhat easier. Probably not.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #269  
Old February 13th, 2013, 07:19 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Bill. do you have any pictures of the alignment issues? Also did you do any reference measurements on the old frame and new to see how they compare? I am sure there are poor tolerances in the manufacturing of the frames, but I'd like to think you could work around that 1/4" issue. There are lots of guys on the forum who have done this and may be able to offer advice if given enough info.
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  #270  
Old February 13th, 2013, 08:23 AM
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No I didn't take any pictures of me messing around with the tweaking stuff, even tho I did even go so far as to lift the bulkhead off with the tractor again. I thought maybe the issue was that the sill channels were different lengths and that they needed to be cut (!) Thankfully I didn't go there. Everything I measured comes out pretty much right on the frame, but since I have no idea what they were thinking when they made this thing I can't say whether it is tabbed to fit 2A or 110 body parts. Certainly the 2A panels are not lining up with the holes. Sure I should have checked that when I had the chance, but the result would have been the same anyway.
My solution is going to be a piece of flat stock that gets bolted across, spanning the two chassis tabs. With the rear seat box panel in place I will drill into this piece and bolt thru it. It will double as a shim, killing two birds. It's unseen so no apparent bodge.
I guess the tub is somewhat twisted or unsquare. It was hit in the left rear at some time in its past, but I never thought it was very badly damaged. Seems to be just enough to make me nuts.
I am sure that a tub that hasn't been whacked would just drop on and line up and be good.
Once I got those two rivets in that hold the T piece to the tub side I was happy.Now if I can get the dog leg panels to fit....
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #271  
Old February 13th, 2013, 12:34 PM
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Mike Hammond
110 200Tdi and a 2005 Scorpa SY250
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I ended up with big fat shims behind the heal boards on the second row seat floor when I built mine. The back was good, the bulkhead was good, the doors were right for the holes & the sills 'B' pillars all fitted. just the front crossmember for the rear tub wasn't quite there. Spent hours shoving, pulling, slackening and tightening bolts all to no avail. That was with a 110 chassis and 110/Series 3 bodywork but the holes all lined up.
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  #272  
Old February 13th, 2013, 01:27 PM
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I have only done this once so take it for what it is worth, but shimming the bulkhead with washers usually helps the most to get the crossmember bolts to line up. When I did it, I basically put everything on loose and then added shims until I was happy with the allignment of the tub and the crossmember (the only thing that can't be moved or shimmed too much) and tightened it all down.

It is hard to say what is the culprit, I do note that ECR said that a lot of the T-peices have the center post welded in the wrong spot so it is probably worthwhile to measure those in addition to checking the tub for square.

Are you talking about the tabs that mount to the flat panel that mounts behind the seatbox? On a 110 they are bolt on "L" shaped deals that bolt to the outrigger. A picture might help. Since I have taken apart 3 110s and 4 or so 109s, I can probably tell you what you have and is going on. I don't recall what that frame has there.
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  #273  
Old February 14th, 2013, 03:50 PM
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McMaster Carr order placed for the multitude of 5/16ths and 1/4 inch bolts/nuts/washers needed for the next stage. I have a mini wrench party going this weekend with a very above and beyond assistant. Hope to get the roof assembly completed, but that is a very tall order with all the dynamat, alpine windows, headliner and stuff associated with it.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #274  
Old February 18th, 2013, 03:45 PM
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Rick and I worked on the roof sides and the roof. Got the rear glass in and the alpine windows, locking strip and all. First one took almost an hour second one ten minutes. No joke.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #275  
Old February 18th, 2013, 05:36 PM
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Wow - looking mint! Loving the Rover Chrome.
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  #276  
Old February 18th, 2013, 06:33 PM
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Excellent
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  #277  
Old February 19th, 2013, 07:14 AM
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We put in 166 rivets in the perimeter frame, 24 pop rivets in the tie braces, 66 in the sun sheet, and 8 to hold the upper tailgate hinge brackets.
I mixed epoxy thickened with microballoons to cake frosting consistency. This mix was put in a bag. Snipped a quarter inch corner off to make a "pastry bag" and piped the goop onto the roof flange before lowering the galvy frame in place.
Rivets went slowly as the holes didn't line up too well. I used my super slick pneumatic rivet squeezers to one-shot them. Rick worked ahead getting the rivets set and I did the fun bit.
PS used System 3 epoxy.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #278  
Old February 19th, 2013, 12:43 PM
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Looking good. Any pictures of the rivets in the roof rain channel? I'll need the McMaster numbers from you for all the rivets BTW.

Did you guys look at the alignment issues any further?
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  #279  
Old February 19th, 2013, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Looking good. Any pictures of the rivets in the roof rain channel? I'll need the McMaster numbers from you for all the rivets BTW.

Did you guys look at the alignment issues any further?
No, not fooling with it any further.

McMaster for 5/32x5/16 roof channel rivets: 97482A208

97524A034 Sealing Blind Rivet, Domed, Alum, 3/16" Dia, .126"-.25" Material Thk
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #280  
Old February 19th, 2013, 01:48 PM
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Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post

97524A034 Sealing Blind Rivet, Domed, Alum, 3/16" Dia, .126"-.25" Material Thk
Why do I get the feeling Bill didn't have to go look all that up???
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