Blue Mule - 1986 110 3dr Build - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 13th, 2013, 06:50 PM
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Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
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Blue Mule - 1986 110 3dr Build

I will try and organize this best I can but for the most part this tread will be me adding pics on the fly of the work in progress on my latest addition.

Vehicle: 1986 3dr 110 - 2.5NA diesel, LT77

Purchase: I had been at a point with my NAS 90 ST where I wasn't sure I wanted to go any further with it. I had in my mind that I wanted a galvy chassis, diesel, and a rig I wasn't too concerned with taking in the woods. Also with 3 kids the 90 was a little right on room.

I had been looking in the classifieds, on eBay and the like. I had seen this blue 3dr on eBay a few times. On the last day of the current auction with just a few hours left the seller dropped the price $3k. I snuck it by the wife and did BIN on my phone.

With all that was going done with the stories of customs and hardly any pics and low seller rating I was a bit nervous. But I got some big help from Doug @ Dividing Creek and she eventually got here. Bug thanks to Doug for helping this newb out - I had a ton of questions and was always emailing for status updates.

Here are some pics:

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On the trailer coming home

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Driveway shot

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Interior - pretty snotty

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A buddy of mine said he had some paint that would make the front grille and light surrounds look ton better so he took them for a night and gave it a clean up and spray. Best looking thing on it right now
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  #2  
Old August 13th, 2013, 07:11 PM
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Joshua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
A buddy of mine said he had some paint that would make the front grille and light surrounds look ton better so he took them for a night and gave it a clean up and spray. Best looking thing on it right now
What'd he use? That looks great. We have to do that to Ronnie's truck soon.
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  #3  
Old August 13th, 2013, 07:37 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post

What'd he use? That looks great. We have to do that to Ronnie's truck soon.
I have to ask him - it does look good. I told him it was too nice for this rig, haha
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  #4  
Old August 16th, 2013, 05:33 PM
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Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
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Blueprint/Build Plan

  • Motor - Mercedes OM617 - I've been reading RDavis' posts about his conversion kit and also a little on Jarek's Disco 2 that has the same engine on the NJ Rover site. Going with a 200tdi would be a straight forward install and cheaper and easier engine but I like how (at least from reading) the OM617 revs more and seems to be smoother. I cut my teeth wrenching on W115's with the 240D back when I was a adolescent. At the time my dad would pull the diesel for the the 250 or 280 gas motors. But I remember how insanely solid everything on those vehicles were and they have been essentially a base-line for quality & function for any vehicle for me in years past.
  • Tranny/T-Case - I am thinking LT77 and obviously a LT230 but with 1.4 gears. Maybe a short R380. I need more drive time in my 110 with the LT77 to see what I like and don't
  • Chassis - I have been talking with RN about a 110 galvy frame. Could I get away with the current frame? Maybe but it would require a lot work and it looks like it has been patched a number of times already.
  • Axles/Suspension - I still have my RovingTracks/Toyota E-Locker axles on the shelf. Also RovingTracks trailing arms, and HD steering components. Those parts and Fox Emulsion shocks match to stock 110 rear spring and a OME HD 2" spring for the front.
I am going to compile parts and get a rolling chassis built this fall. That way I can take my time and get parts/work on it when I have the time. Yes, I have a LT77 and LT230 in the vehicle now but I want to make sure what I put in is in top shape. It is my first time doing this so I am sure there will be a ton of little things I will have to figure out. But if I can get something rollable and runnable for the spring and then swap the body out within a month I won't have much down time.
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  #5  
Old August 16th, 2013, 05:55 PM
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Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
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Some pics of the what I was trying to bang out this week. On the one hand I hate the 2 bolt per corner seat base design as the M6 screw heads all strip. But at least Rover kept the same hole spacing as the later models and I just had to shift it to one of the sets. Used a button head for the unused side to make it look decent. Had to fabricate 4 plates with 2 welded M8 nuts each.

Then I had to mod an old adapter bracket I made years ago to get the Corbeaus to work. I love these seats and I still have a lot of cleaning and some paint work but they feel great.

Now just have to do the passenger side.

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  #6  
Old August 16th, 2013, 07:07 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Some pics of the P&P Cage install. Overall not too bad. I love how there aren't any directions with pictures and the written ones they do include are worthless.

But once I figured it out, it's a nice setup. The front seems really strong and ties into one of the outriggers. The rear ties into the rear cross member but doesn't bolt all the way to the rear hoop. I am either missing a piece or it doesn't need it. I might fabricate one, once I do the final.

Thanks Clay (1of40) and for the door to door delivery! The welded tabs for seatbelts in the rear are going to work out mint.

I will take more underneath pics for anyone else that is doing one of these cage installs.

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Add on: the last pic shows the new 255 Km2's on Britpart NATO style rims in silver.

I also had to take off the stock tow hitch/plow and popped in JSQ's rear receiver. Looks a lot cleaner and gives a lot more clearance.

One thing about the P&P cage kit was the 8.8 grade bolts vs 10.4. I added some of the beefier ones that I had and on the final build I will use grade 10.4s all around.
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  #7  
Old August 17th, 2013, 10:45 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Good to see this under way. Show us some frame pics - no way to tell if you can use it or not otherwise. My gut says if you are going to all this effort you want to replace the frame too
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  #8  
Old August 17th, 2013, 12:58 PM
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Jamie Austin
1992 110 Td5 CSW & 1989 MB G-Wagen
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Looks good.

P&P stuff is good... i have a full external cage on my 110.

And your steering wheel is on the correct side!!
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  #9  
Old August 17th, 2013, 01:23 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Good to see this under way. Show us some frame pics - no way to tell if you can use it or not otherwise. My gut says if you are going to all this effort you want to replace the frame too
Thanks Charles - my plan since I got it was to just order a new frame. That way I can build up a rolling chassis with those Toy axles and put the OM617 on it as well. I might even put a galvy bulkhead on while I am at it.

Then I can still drive it around and enjoy it over the next few months to half year. I am hoping I can take it to Rovers on the Rocks this fall.

------ Follow up post added August 17th, 2013 02:26 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel_jim View Post
Looks good.

P&P stuff is good... i have a full external cage on my 110.

And your steering wheel is on the correct side!!
Thanks Jim - agree with the P&P stuff. There really wasn't much massaging it even with a 26 year old body and frame. And the soft top pieces for the front fit well too.

I am going to drive it around a few months and see if I like it. It does look "right" but weird as hell when I took it out for a short spin.
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  #10  
Old September 4th, 2013, 12:16 PM
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Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
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Damn, getting late model seats to fit the early seat boxes is a PITA! I had to make 8 brackets (actually 12 as I flubbed up the first 4) so I had a solid M8 bolt to thread into. At least I got some time on the torch. I used M8 button hex head so it looks pretty clean. I had some old brackets I made out of 1" square on the shelf that I welded more M8 nuts to for a bung. Then sand and paint them. Pretty long job for something not that big but the Corbeau's are really comfy to me.

Also installed ST doors but the white is killing me. I might just DA them and rattle can them in a close enough blue.
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  #11  
Old September 4th, 2013, 12:24 PM
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Jamie Austin
1992 110 Td5 CSW & 1989 MB G-Wagen
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I made some similar frames up, to fit some Disco1 seats into my 90. Went well. they're comfy, and cheap too!
Trouble is, with my P&P cage, i've got the internal hoop as well, so the D1 seats wouldn't fit into the 110
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  #12  
Old September 4th, 2013, 12:27 PM
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Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel_jim View Post
I made some similar frames up, to fit some Disco1 seats into my 90. Went well. they're comfy, and cheap too!
Trouble is, with my P&P cage, i've got the internal hoop as well, so the D1 seats wouldn't fit into the 110
These seats are pretty close. Do you have have the bulkhead still? I think P&P sells one that is more like a NAS ST style. I have been thinking of removing the bulkhead to have some extra room.

Material on the brackets is cheap. Too bad the fab time for me takes forever!
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  #13  
Old September 4th, 2013, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
One thing about the P&P cage kit was the 8.8 grade bolts vs 10.4. I added some of the beefier ones that I had and on the final build I will use grade 10.4s all around.
Looks great, don!

I wouldn't worry about replacing the 8.8 bolts on the P&P cage. At a minimum 27,000 lbs per M8 bolt shear force, with four bolts per cage attachment point, that's 111,000lbs per cage attachment point, or the entire weight of the truck experiencing 18G's concentrated on one attachment point.

The roll cage tubing will fail before the 8.8 fasteners do.
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  #14  
Old September 4th, 2013, 12:36 PM
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Jamie Austin
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The 110 is a SW, so no bulkhead on that (prior to fitting the internal hoop, I could roll the disco seats right back flat, so could almost sleep on them).

the 90 i've cut the bulkhead to half height, with a slight angle on the edges, but it enables the seats to roll and push back an extra couple of inches... makes all the difference to comfort!
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  #15  
Old September 4th, 2013, 12:44 PM
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Don, the build is coming along nicely. That 3 door with the cage is bad-ass.

Clay
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  #16  
Old September 4th, 2013, 12:46 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Looks great, don!

I wouldn't worry about replacing the 8.8 bolts on the P&P cage. At a minimum 27,000 lbs per M8 bolt shear force, with four bolts per cage attachment point, that's 111,000lbs per cage attachment point, or the entire weight of the truck experiencing 18G's concentrated on one attachment point.

The roll cage tubing will fail before the 8.8 fasteners do.
Thanks - I will probably do it when I rebuild it. Honestly, I like the yellow coating on the 10.9 bolts - so might do it for that reason alone, haha.

But thanks for the breakdown - seems like I will plenty fine in case something happens.
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  #17  
Old September 4th, 2013, 01:05 PM
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Jamie Austin
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My original P&P 8,8 bolts are all corroded and/or rusty looking. Could do with a bit of TLC.
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  #18  
Old September 4th, 2013, 01:08 PM
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Looking good Don! I hear you on the fab time - I have to be the worlds slowest fabricator.
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  #19  
Old September 4th, 2013, 01:11 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Don, the build is coming along nicely. That 3 door with the cage is bad-ass.

Clay
Thank Clay! It came out pretty good didn't it? I love how it looks and fits and seems like it would hold a house with how solid it is. The only problem is the cage is so much nicer than the rest of the truck, haha.

------ Follow up post added September 4th, 2013 02:16 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Looking good Don! I hear you on the fab time - I have to be the worlds slowest fabricator.
I notice with TIG that the cleaner things are it produces such a nicer weld. So that takes me forever and then I need to spend forever making sure things are totally straight. I can burn (couldn't resist) an hour easy. Very satisfying but a little stressful in a busy household, :D
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  #20  
Old September 9th, 2013, 09:01 PM
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The low front high rear stance was killing me every time I looked at the truck so Friday I swapped out the front suspension. Why bother when I am going to do a new frame and running gear anyway? IDK, guess I am a mental case.

OME springs from the white 90
Disco 2 shock tower rings
Terrafirma cheap shocks - can't beat $44 each
Used shock towers from eBay - the original ones were rusty and splitting.

Yes, the frame is pretty rusty but solid enough. While in there I wire brushed best I could and gave it a good coat of spray paint. 2 different shock brands came out and neither had any rebound. The old springs had the bottom 3 or 4 coils touching so I figured they were toast too.

I need to take a side view as it now sits level and rides and handles better.

Before right side
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Almost after left side
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