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  #21  
Old September 10th, 2013, 06:44 PM
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Another pic of that RH front spring swap.
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  #22  
Old September 25th, 2013, 06:28 PM
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Have a 600# lump sitting in the garage. 250k on the W123 it came out of but it sounded nice when we ran it before they took it out.

I have most of Robert Davis's kit on the bench. All the pieces look sweet and can't wait to start doing this job. Hoping on can start turning wrenches on it in December.

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  #23  
Old September 25th, 2013, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Have a 600# lump sitting in the garage. 250k on the W123 it came out of but it sounded nice when we ran it before they took it out.

I have most of Robert Davis's kit on the bench. All the pieces look sweet and can't wait to start doing this job. Hoping on can start turning wrenches on it in December.

Attachment 80882
Oh crap I must have missed this was the plan! Nice!!!! Jarek will have his Merc enging going again soon. They are sweet engines...and (nearly) bomb proof.

I gotta ask - do you miss the D90 though?
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  #24  
Old September 25th, 2013, 08:38 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Oh crap I must have missed this was the plan! Nice!!!! Jarek will have his Merc enging going again soon. They are sweet engines...and (nearly) bomb proof. I gotta ask - do you miss the D90 though?
I was originally going 200tdi but Robert Davis's kit looked so good and he had some good points on the Merc setup over the 200tdi. Plus knowing Jarek is running one helped steer me over too.

I don't miss the 90. My buddy bought it and I actually drove it on Saturday. We just put new 285 Goodyear Duratracs on it. It drives so much smoother/nicer/faster than the 110 but once the 110 is done it will be pretty much exactly what I want.
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  #25  
Old September 26th, 2013, 03:16 AM
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Very cool Don. I'm looking forward to seeing this thing at Hartshorne!
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  #26  
Old September 26th, 2013, 03:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Have a 600# lump sitting in the garage. 250k on the W123 it came out of but it sounded nice when we ran it before they took it out.

I have most of Robert Davis's kit on the bench. All the pieces look sweet and can't wait to start doing this job. Hoping on can start turning wrenches on it in December.

Attachment 80882
If you don't mind my asking, what did you end up finding a decent OM617 for? What maintenance are you going to do to it before installing?
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  #27  
Old September 26th, 2013, 07:24 AM
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I knew I shouldn't have started reading this thread...now I have another "subscribed" thread to monitor!
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  #28  
Old September 26th, 2013, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by alastair View Post
Very cool Don. I'm looking forward to seeing this thing at Hartshorne!
I need to finish up building a bike as well! Got a Turner 5 Spot frame. I know 26ers are dead but i still like them. Hope things are going well with you - it's been a long while.

------ Follow up post added September 26th, 2013 09:36 AM ------

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Originally Posted by ontheway View Post
If you don't mind my asking, what did you end up finding a decent OM617 for? What maintenance are you going to do to it before installing?
The one I bought I got for $700. I know you can get them cheaper but I didn't want to mess around. Another option if you have time/space is to buy a ratty W123 for cheap, pull the motor then scrap the car. You might be able to be net neutral if you don't include your time. There are a lot of these cars and by design once the bodies go, they really go, and the motors if taken care of are known to go a really long time. This one has 250k on the car it came out of but sounded so much smoother than the 2.5 in my 110 with 150k. Check the thread out by Robert Davis - it has a bunch more info and he is the diesel Jedi master.

------ Follow up post added September 26th, 2013 09:37 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
I knew I shouldn't have started reading this thread...now I have another "subscribed" thread to monitor!
Thanks! I can't wait until I have some Rover Gold pieces and start putting the chassis together. Then it should be a decent build thread, haha
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  #29  
Old September 26th, 2013, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Check the thread out by Robert Davis - it has a bunch more info and he is the diesel Jedi master.
Trust me, I think I've read that thread 50 times. I'm a **** hair away on pulling the trigger on the kit but have been waiting on someone to do a write up of the install.

I ask about your engine choice because I've seen in other threads (pirate maybe?) where good ones aren't so easy to come by because the junk yard folks know they are sought after.

700 isn't too bad
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  #30  
Old September 26th, 2013, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
I knew I shouldn't have started reading this thread...now I have another "subscribed" thread to monitor!
Tell me about it!
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  #31  
Old October 3rd, 2013, 08:34 PM
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I have been going back and forth with what to do with a tailgate and spare tire carrier. At first I was thinking ST gate and Mantec or NAS tire carrier. Then I saw how people cut a SW door and got it to work that is right after I gave away my carrier.

So looking in the shop and seeing.2 sticks of 1.5" square tubing I have been tripping over all year long, I figured I would make my own gate and build it like its a tire carrier.

I still have a bunch more fab work but got the outside frame done today. I ha to straighten it so use a piece of tubing and drove the Suburban on it. Seems like a good test and the sucker didn't flex much at all.

Anyway pics...

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Let me know what you guys think - I have a pretty good idea what direction I am going but always like to listen to ideas.
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  #32  
Old October 3rd, 2013, 10:01 PM
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I think you will have a hard time sealing the bottom. The stock door is tapered. Not that it matters with an open bed. . I assume you are going to mount the stock style door tire carrier to it? What is the end deisgn?

For the $150 a tailgate would cost it seems like a lot of work though.
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  #33  
Old October 3rd, 2013, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I think you will have a hard time sealing the bottom. The stock door is tapered. Not that it matters with an open bed. . I assume you are going to mount the stock style door tire carrier to it? What is the end deisgn? For the $150 a tailgate would cost it seems like a lot of work though.
Ahh, but It will have a little bit of a taper - I need to weld a piece of angle steel to the outside and for the bottom I might add a little more weld then grind it smooth. Plus like you said it's an open bed

Stock SW tire carrier will go on it - and it will be bolted solidly to the verticals I will add. The stock design seems pretty flexy and I noticed a sizable crack on the one I am using.

$150 for a tailgate? I wish - I could not many and the cheapest I saw was $250 before shipping from SafariHP. Cost wise I am in for a fair bit but if didn't give away my stock door it would be in for essentially cost. ST style would be $200 for the gate and $300+ for the tire carrier.

Couple of other thoughts going into this:

- on my ST with carrier - even with new bushings - that fucker rattled
-the ST carrier is pretty heavy - so if I can make this one door lighter than the carrier but just as strong I am better off. I will weigh it at the end to compare. (And yes I know I am over thinking this)
-the ass end of a 110 is big say I can save a few inches keeping the tire on the door - it might help on trail? (again splitting hairs like above)
- I am hoping the end result is a little cleaner overall than a ST and carrier setup - I may have to go beefier hinges or at the very least tie it in with the corner/cage support.

But I do like the comments/suggestions - makes me think things out more.
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  #34  
Old October 3rd, 2013, 11:33 PM
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Just thinking here...

What if you made a spare carrier that swung away and then used a drop down tailgate? I liked having the drop down on my 90 for a place to sit - and set stuff down, but hated having the spare in the tub as it took up so much space.
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  #35  
Old October 3rd, 2013, 11:33 PM
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I think the hinges will be the weak link. Tailgates must have gone up recently. In an open top three door, the side fitting in the bed seemed ideal for the spare to me.
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  #36  
Old October 4th, 2013, 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Mybluett View Post
Just thinking here... What if you made a spare carrier that swung away and then used a drop down tailgate? I liked having the drop down on my 90 for a place to sit - and set stuff down, but hated having the spare in the tub as it took up so much space.
That sounds like a nice idea but for this 3 door 110 - the rear will be an in/out for the kids getting into the rear seating. For a 110 crew can that tailgate set up would be the trick.

------ Follow up post added October 4th, 2013 03:08 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I think the hinges will be the weak link. Tailgates must have gone up recently. In an open top three door, the side fitting in the bed seemed ideal for the spare to me.
I agree that getting the spare inside would be nice and clean. But my plan is to put 4 fold up seats in the back to haul the kids. Yes, building a church for Christmas in a way but it is fun when they ride in the Defender.

------ Follow up post added October 4th, 2013 03:10 AM ------

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You need these. -Jeff
Please pardon my ignorance but what are those?
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  #37  
Old October 4th, 2013, 02:14 AM
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Please pardon my ignorance but what are those?
tailgate latches...
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  #38  
Old October 4th, 2013, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Mybluett View Post
tailgate latches...
Aha - now I see it - Thanks - late night playing hockey and got a stick to the jaw so I am not totally with it.
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  #39  
Old October 4th, 2013, 05:24 PM
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Welded some of the small angle steel to create the lip for the skin to hook on. A little overkill but I am going to run bead all the way across on both sides. I need the TIG practice plus should seal better. Maybe with some primer and paint it might look halfway decent.

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  #40  
Old October 16th, 2013, 08:47 PM
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Sold my ok welder and bought my buddy's Miller so was down on the fab work.

Grafted the latch piece onto the new gate. Shitty metal = shitty welds but it looks to have bonded well. It sorta gives a gusset effect although I had to splice some metal out of the square tubing.

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