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  #301  
Old August 25th, 2015, 08:11 PM
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Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
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You and Kang... At least you had a reason to replace your floor! Any reason you didn't rivet the ribs?
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  #302  
Old August 25th, 2015, 08:48 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
You and Kang... At least you had a reason to replace your floor! Any reason you didn't rivet the ribs?
I might do the center rib with rivets. I wanted a smooth floor too but that is a mute point now that it will have some waves from the weld heat.

And on Soronoros' thread it seemed that blind rivets wouldn't hold long term. Also - to be honest I thought this would weld up pretty easily... Live and learn.
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  #303  
Old August 26th, 2015, 04:31 AM
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Adrian
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Don,

How thick is the aluminum sheet? I have a MIG spool gun you can use, you may be better off with that and lots of small tack welds to help curb warping.
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  #304  
Old August 26th, 2015, 06:41 AM
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William Skidmore
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Dont know if I said it here or not but instead of using the squared ribs under the floor to add stiffness. Why not just get the floor rolled? That way you dont need rivets and you keep the floor smooth.
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  #305  
Old August 27th, 2015, 08:30 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
Don, How thick is the aluminum sheet? I have a MIG spool gun you can use, you may be better off with that and lots of small tack welds to help curb warping.
3/32" - I think I have a decent process now to get a tig bead on it without twisting too much. Problem is the one end I did is pretty bent up. I can clamp it down and get it straight so hopefully when I rivet it into the bed sides it will go where it is supposed to!

------ Follow up post added August 27th, 2015 09:33 AM ------

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Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
Dont know if I said it here or not but instead of using the squared ribs under the floor to add stiffness. Why not just get the floor rolled? That way you dont need rivets and you keep the floor smooth.
I was thinking that while looking at my rigging for the 20x last night. I can see why Rover did this type of construction as a monkey could put it together with the correct size spot welder. But there could be a much more elegant/better way to do it.
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  #306  
Old October 6th, 2015, 06:37 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Finished the other side of the front tub that was all corroded. Fingers cross that I will have the tub on the chassis this weekend.

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  #307  
Old October 6th, 2015, 07:58 PM
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Let me know if you need a hand.
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  #308  
Old October 7th, 2015, 06:43 AM
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Let me know if you need a hand.
Thanks Matt - will hit you up if I need another person to lift the tub
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  #309  
Old October 7th, 2015, 08:19 AM
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I can help too!

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  #310  
Old October 7th, 2015, 11:26 AM
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I can help too! Sal
Thanks Sal - appreciate the offer will text you if I need an extra hand
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  #311  
Old October 13th, 2015, 01:51 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Tub ready to go on the galvy frame.

Paint came out pretty good for a rattle job. Good coverage and looks way better than what was on there. I really like how the galvy cross pieces on the black tub look.

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  #312  
Old October 13th, 2015, 08:12 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Looking good Don!
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  #313  
Old October 13th, 2015, 09:32 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Looking good Don!
Thanks Charles!
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  #314  
Old October 14th, 2015, 01:39 AM
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Jamie Austin
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Sweet!
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  #315  
Old October 14th, 2015, 07:21 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Sweet!
thanks Jim!
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  #316  
Old October 15th, 2015, 03:34 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Doing all the little things to get the tub onto the frame.

I bought new rear pieces from YRM as the original material was corroded. I riveted the nut plates to it.

Then used stainless 318 bolts.

Outside view:

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  #317  
Old October 15th, 2015, 03:35 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Inside view:

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  #318  
Old October 15th, 2015, 03:36 PM
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Another inside view. Forgot to mention that I used a bunch of anti-seaze on the threads.

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  #319  
Old October 15th, 2015, 06:53 PM
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Looks wicked.
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  #320  
Old October 15th, 2015, 07:33 PM
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Brian
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Looks amazing Don - love following your build!
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