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  #601  
Old August 26th, 2016, 06:41 PM
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Andrew
1994 NAS Defender 90
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I didn't want to bother repairing the dents in the old one and taking it apart to galvanize the frame, so I just got the Td5 version with an aluminum frame so I don't have to worry about it ever rusting again. I have to change the prop setup too though.
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  #602  
Old September 1st, 2016, 11:02 PM
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Andrew
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I've talked to a few painters and body shops about having the paint work done. Most the shops I talked to don't want to touch a restoration project and don't know what a Defender is. They only want to deal with insurance claims on Hondas, Subarus, etc. A friend recommended a painter to me, but he's backed up weeks out and I'm sure it'll be expensive because he charged $2k to fix his Z4's fender. So I've decided to build a paint booth and do it myself. Iíve already painted some of the inside of the tub with Glasurit 22 Line the paint shop mixed up into aerosol cans and itís really nice to paint with. It didnít run at all even when I applied it kind of thick (which it seems I had to do to get it to shine good) and it covers very well, unlike some lower end AkzoNobel paint Iíve used which runs easily and covers poorly. It reminds me of the difference between store brand interior paint like Valspar versus Benjamin Moore. Night and day. The booth doesn't have to be real big since I'll paint the parts individually. It'll be something like this one a guy made when restoring his Mustang: Paint Booth

Today I picked up the paint for the whole truck. They didn't have the sealer yet (it's still on order). I selected the low VOC versions so I don't have to buy two separate hardeners and reducers for the color and sealer. The sealer is model 285-18 (tech sheet link). Glasurit says it can be used on the new e-coat body panels without sanding them. Some parts that have bare metal like the inside of the tub and new hinges will need to be primed, so I wanted an epoxy primer. But I donít want to have to buy another set of hardener and reducer for that either, so I went with a 2-part aerosol. It has a separate compartment in the bottom that you push the cap into to release the hardener. Itís SprayMax brand, but the paint store guy claims itís the same thing as the Glasurit 801-75. The new rear tub panels will need to be glued so I got 2-part 3M Adhesive and the applicator gun. A body shop guy told me to make sure I get 3M brand, but the paint store guy said he prefers SEM brand. I got the 3M because it was only a dollar more. Since itíll be riveted with the capping on the top and side I think either will be okay.



Monza

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  #603  
Old September 1st, 2016, 11:35 PM
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You are painting monza and not portofinio? Interesting, it will take someone who really knows defenders to notice. I can't wait to see how it turns out. My poor red 94 needs paint help. The front fenders were resprayed and the rest of the truck looks pink (which I would not mind if it were all the same).
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  #604  
Old September 2nd, 2016, 02:44 AM
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Yeah, I was going to keep it Portofino because the paint on the sides of the tub is in good shape, but after I talked to some painters they told me I should paint the whole thing because red is very hard to match, and I always wanted a Monza truck, so I thought why not?
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  #605  
Old September 2nd, 2016, 09:20 AM
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Sam Hagey
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Quote:
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... and I always wanted a Monza truck, so I thought why not?
4" lift and some 37's and you can call it a "Monzta Truck"
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  #606  
Old September 2nd, 2016, 10:27 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Sounds like you know as much as some of those body shops! Can't wait to see how this comes out.
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  #607  
Old September 30th, 2016, 06:42 PM
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SOUTH AFRICAN BMW 2.8 DEFENDER | Land Rover Monthly
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  #608  
Old October 1st, 2016, 02:57 AM
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Andrew
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Hey thanks for sharing the article Ben!

------ Follow up post added October 1st, 2016 12:03 AM ------

Hey that is so cool! I must say, without the help of Andrew Faber and Mike Weight at LR Service Centre my project would not have been possible. Many special thanks to them.
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  #609  
Old October 1st, 2016, 03:18 AM
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Just a little critique of the article, the information on how the 2.8i Defender was developed isn't exactly accurate. Many parts are indeed one-off and unique such as the bell housing which is not the same as on the RR P38 DSE, as we have discovered. So many parts certainly did not come from the LR parts bin, but were rather original creations developed by the industrious and amazing South African people.
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  #610  
Old October 10th, 2016, 10:13 PM
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I didn't realize how important it is to have a good spray gun until I started researching. Based on recommendations I got a Sagola 4500 Xtreme Digital. It's made in Spain. I ordered it from Racing Colors in Barcelona and it got here in only a week.

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  #611  
Old October 14th, 2016, 11:24 PM
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Well I can't do any painting yet. We're being bombarded with some major storms with the remnants of a typhoon. Hopefully we'll have some good weather before spring.

One thing I don't like on the Defender are all those Phillips-head screws on the floor plates, hinges, bulkhead diaphragm, front wings, etc. I had to lock a vice-grip onto the rusty ones to get them off or use the angle grinder. So I'm replacing all of them with the torx screws found on the Puma trucks.

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  #612  
Old October 15th, 2016, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
Well I can't do any painting yet. We're being bombarded with some major storms with the remnants of a typhoon. Hopefully we'll have some good weather before spring. One thing I don't like on the Defender are all those Phillips-head screws on the floor plates, hinges, bulkhead diaphragm, front wings, etc. I had to lock a vice-grip onto the rusty ones to get them off or use the angle grinder. So I'm replacing all of them with the torx screws found on the Puma trucks.
Fill them with anti-seize and they will come off. The problem is that they rust to the captive plates.
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  #613  
Old October 15th, 2016, 11:14 AM
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Also, spray the captive plates from below with clear waxoyl.
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  #614  
Old October 15th, 2016, 07:50 PM
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Yeah, I had to cut the floor plate screws off from below; the slot head ones by the seat box because I couldn't grab onto them with the vice grips. Maybe I can just put some anti-seize on the new ones, but I don't anticipate them needing to come off again.
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  #615  
Old October 15th, 2016, 08:30 PM
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... but I don't anticipate them needing to come off again.
Never, ever operate under that assumption. It is a Land Rover.
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  #616  
Old October 15th, 2016, 09:50 PM
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Never, ever operate under that assumption. It is a Land Rover.
Nailed it.
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  #617  
Old October 19th, 2016, 04:51 PM
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Andrew
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Yeah, that's true. I guess they will need to come off again when I get a new bulkhead later. Things don't rust around here much, but even if they did now I know how to get them off. It's amazing the skills I've learned over the course of this project.

The other day I started researching torx bits and screwdrivers. I used a HF torx bit to take off the roll cage bolts, but it's not real great, so I think I'll get a Snap-On bit to re-install them. I remember when I had to take the vibration damper off the front of my old S54 engine there are 4 external torx bolts securing it and I used a HF socket and it stripped. Cheap metal and it didn't fit very snug. So I got a Snap-On socket and it was a perfect fit and worked great. For the small screws I can use a screwdriver. I was planning to get Snap-On for those too, but they're $25+ each. So I started looking for alternatives. I read any of the European brands are good for torx, like PB Swiss, Hazet, Stahlwille, Gedore, Witte, Wera, Wiha, etc. The PB Swiss SwissGrip look nice, but they're about the same price as the Snap-On ones individually. There's a set on Amazon, but it's missing the T30 I need. So I ended up purchasing a Gedore 5-piece set for $26.50 I found on eBay. They arrived today. They look like good quality.

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  #618  
Old October 19th, 2016, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
Yeah, that's true. I guess they will need to come off again when I get a new bulkhead later. Things don't rust around here much, but even if they did now I know how to get them off. It's amazing the skills I've learned over the course of this project. The other day I started researching torx bits and screwdrivers. I used a HF torx bit to take off the roll cage bolts, but it's not real great, so I think I'll get a Snap-On bit to re-install them. I remember when I had to take the vibration damper off the front of my old S54 engine there are 4 external torx bolts securing it and I used a HF socket and it stripped. Cheap metal and it didn't fit very snug. So I got a Snap-On socket and it was a perfect fit and worked great. For the small screws I can use a screwdriver. I was planning to get Snap-On for those too, but they're $25+ each. So I started looking for alternatives. I read any of the European brands are good for torx, like PB Swiss, Hazet, Stahlwille, Gedore, Witte, Wera, Wiha, etc. The PB Swiss SwissGrip look nice, but they're about the same price as the Snap-On ones individually. There's a set on Amazon, but it's missing the T30 I need. So I ended up purchasing a Gedore 5-piece set for $26.50 I found on eBay. They arrived today. They look like good quality.
If you operate under the assumption that some day you will sell the truck (or die) and that the person who owns it next should sing your praises rather than curse your name, you will never be disappointed with you how do things.
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  #619  
Old October 19th, 2016, 07:46 PM
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Andrew
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Yeah I agree, but obviously the previous owners didn't operate under that assumption. I personally don't understand why anyone would neglect a vehicle and treat it so poorly to the point where it should go to the scrapper. Besides the extensive corrosion, it had lots of very odd repairs like the kind ECR complains about on their website, e.g. welded something when it should be bolted (because they lost the bolt and didn't want to bother looking for one?) or used the wrong part like something they had lying around, and lots of little things here and there that were just missing; things you wouldn't even expect anyone to mess with (I'm just left with...why?). I don't have negative feelings to whoever has owned it before, but I think they're very odd people who don't appreciate or respect things as I feel they should. Hopefully they aren't like that anymore.

It should be a pleasure to work on from now on and I should feel happy I'm trying to give life to something that was on it's very last leg.
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  #620  
Old October 19th, 2016, 08:57 PM
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Dan Kemper
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Ha. I bet we all have funny stories with Landrover and defender ownership where we were caught cursing previous owner.
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