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  #581  
Old August 4th, 2016, 01:56 PM
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looking good!
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  #582  
Old August 12th, 2016, 02:14 PM
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I've been trying to decide what to do about the footwell trim. At first I found some that covered them nicely (BTR5235 & BTR5236), but I preferred them to have a texture rather than smooth, so then I decided I would just use the NAS ones that cover the kick panel area only. I don't care much for the hokey cardboard trim for the driver's footwell though and I would still need to get the center section to cover fuse box area, which is quite expensive. So then I found these footwell trims from a Td5. They extend over the center fuse box area so I don't need that piece and they have the texture that matches the tunnel cover and Puma seat box cover I got. I think it'll give the interior a nice finished look. One thing a bit odd is that LR doesn't seem to list the part numbers for these footwell trims and on the various forums no one has been able to find them from what I can tell, so we assume these are NLA, but I can't confirm that. Another option I think would work would be to buy the footwell trims for the Puma (part # LR013013 for LHD, 1 piece) and also the V8 center section (ETD103270) and cut them to fit the center section since the tunnel is different. The RH Td5 trim has the place for the bonnet release, so I suppose I'll install that one.

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  #583  
Old August 12th, 2016, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
I've been trying to decide what to do about the footwell trim. At first I found some that covered them nicely (BTR5235 & BTR5236), but I preferred them to have a texture rather than smooth, so then I decided I would just use the NAS ones that cover the kick panel area only. I don't care much for the hokey cardboard trim for the driver's footwell though and I would still need to get the center section to cover fuse box area, which is quite expensive. So then I found these footwell trims from a Td5. They extend over the center fuse box area so I don't need that piece and they have the texture that matches the tunnel cover and Puma seat box cover I got. I think it'll give the interior a nice finished look. One thing a bit odd is that LR doesn't seem to list the part numbers for these footwell trims and on the various forums no one has been able to find them from what I can tell, so we assume these are NLA, but I can't confirm that. Another option I think would work would be to buy the footwell trims for the Puma (part # LR013013 for LHD, 1 piece) and also the V8 center section (ETD103270) and cut them to fit the center section since the tunnel is different. The Td5 trim on the RH side has the place for the bonnet release, so I suppose I'll install that one.

I have these new still in package with part numbers. They are long NLA.

The puma ones wont really fit.
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  #584  
Old August 12th, 2016, 02:22 PM
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Okay, good to know.

------ Follow up post added August 12th, 2016 11:29 AM ------

Since they're NLA maybe I shouldn't make a cut out for the VIN sticker then. I could just remove the trim when I need to go in for emissions testing so they can read it.
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  #585  
Old August 13th, 2016, 09:06 PM
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Are you selling a se of these? I'm looking for a pair myself
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  #586  
Old August 13th, 2016, 11:55 PM
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Are you selling a se of these? I'm looking for a pair myself
What are they worth?
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  #587  
Old August 14th, 2016, 09:46 AM
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I paid $225 for my last one. I need one for my new build.
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  #588  
Old August 14th, 2016, 01:12 PM
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That's about what I paid for mine shipped from continental Europe. It's hard to say what a brand new set is worth. How much were they new?
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  #589  
Old August 16th, 2016, 07:11 PM
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I’ve been trying to decide how to go about painting all the new body panels. I was planning on taking them all down to have them painted individually, but that’s kind of awkward and there’s the risk they could get scratched transporting and installing them. So I’m going to paint the insides of them myself and then put them on the truck. Then the paint guy can just paint the whole outside of the truck. I was going to leave the galv cappings bare, but this way those will just get painted over too. That’s how Land Rover did it. So tomorrow I'm going down to the paint store to have them mix me up some Glasurit 22 into spray cans. Since the whole truck is getting painted I could do a color change too, but I think it should stay something close, so I’ve decided on Monza Red. I think it pops a little more than Portofino.
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  #590  
Old August 16th, 2016, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
I’ve been trying to decide how to go about painting all the new body panels. I was planning on taking them all down to have them painted individually, but that’s kind of awkward and there’s the risk they could get scratched transporting and installing them. So I’m going to paint the insides of them myself and then put them on the truck. Then the paint guy can just paint the whole outside of the truck. I was going to leave the galv cappings bare, but this way those will just get painted over too. That’s how Land Rover did it. So tomorrow I'm going down to the paint store to have them mix me up some Glasurit 22 into spray cans. Since the whole truck is getting painted I could do a color change too, but I think it should stay something close, so I’ve decided on Monza Red. I think it pops a little more than Portofino.
Sounds like a very good plan.

I think the change to Monza Red is a good move - something different but not too different which is smart for an NAS truck.

And I would normally say not to paint the galvy cappings but that's how they did it on NAS trucks. They will last forever now that they are galvanized (great move btw).

I would say the paint guy would love having you do the tedious work painting the insides and hanging panels. I painted my inner panels black when I had them off so if I ever do paint my truck I won't have to take it all down. And seeing your work so far you will probably get them much better aligned too!
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  #591  
Old August 16th, 2016, 07:46 PM
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I would advise against painting the galv cappings on. I bet they won't prep them properly and paint will come off.

Either do them separate or leave raw.

The unpainted rivets look better anyway.
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  #592  
Old August 16th, 2016, 08:34 PM
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Paint does not stick to galvanizing well at all.

I would paint in pieces. Make sure it is well cured and transport and assemble carefully.
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  #593  
Old August 16th, 2016, 09:02 PM
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Okay, I'll talk to the paint guy about the galv cappings. ECR posts pictures of them painting galv parts all the time.
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  #594  
Old August 16th, 2016, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
Okay, I'll talk to the paint guy about the galv cappings. ECR posts pictures of them painting galv parts all the time.
Ecr has the process down.
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  #595  
Old August 16th, 2016, 09:37 PM
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Hopefully they're not the only ones. Glasurit says their 801- epoxy primers provide outstanding adhesion on galvanised steel.
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  #596  
Old August 16th, 2016, 10:15 PM
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Hopefully they're not the only ones. Glasurit says their 801- epoxy primers provide outstanding adhesion on galvanised steel.
For the galvanized sheet metal panels that are standard on new vehicles (for the most part) this may be true, but hot dipped is another ballgame. Unless you paint it right after being dipped or sand it or something it does not stick.
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  #597  
Old August 16th, 2016, 10:29 PM
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Okay, well either way. I don't mind leaving them bare. They did turn out well.
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  #598  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 05:08 AM
Manu
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Hi Andrew, congratulations for the magnificent work on your 90.
I live in France and I have a project similar to yours.
I am the owner of a land 110,300 tdi and a BMW M3 E36 3.2L.
I would like to install the engine of the M3 in the 110.
By reading your blog I see that it's possible, but my English is not very good and I struggle to understand if I can find the right pieces to connect the S50B32 engine block with the gear box of the land ( R380).
I read on internet that the engine block S50 and the same as the M52.
And I also saw that some parts of P38 RR 2,5l diesel could be used for my project.
Before I launch into this adventure, I would be sure that I will be able to find the necessary parts at the junction gear box - engine. Everything else I have. (well almost
What do you think? Would you have any advice for me or for information, addresses or I can find these pieces?
I'm not very comfortable with the language of Shakespeare and I confess that I write with the google translation service :-))) So excuse me if turns of phrase are strange. translations are sometimes comical.
Anyway, good courage in pursuit of your project, you are not far from reaching the goal !!
Thank you very much for taking the time to read and in any case I will follow the completion of your project with great interest.
Manu.
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  #599  
Old August 26th, 2016, 06:17 PM
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Hey Manu,
Thank you and welcome to the forum. You're translated English is very good.
The S50 engine will bolt in the same as the M52. I read about a guy in South Africa who installed the S50 from the M3 into his 2.8i for racing. Apparently the motorsport engine is more sensitive to the effects of oil starvation off-road, so I imagine you would want to install an oil baffle in the pan or convert to a dry sump setup. I don't know if you can fit the dual sump S50b32 oil pan. You may need to install the M52 pump and oil pan. There is some information in my build thread that may help you with your project. A few pages back in the thread I compared the P38 RR 2.5 diesel clutch housing adaptor to the Defender 2.8i version in pictures. You can use either, but if you use the P38 version you will need to make custom engine mounts since the engine will be rotated about 10 degrees.

Andrew
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  #600  
Old August 26th, 2016, 06:29 PM
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Why are you changing your hood?
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