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  #581  
Old August 14th, 2016, 08:46 AM
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I paid $225 for my last one. I need one for my new build.
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  #582  
Old August 14th, 2016, 12:12 PM
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That's about what I paid for mine shipped from continental Europe. It's hard to say what a brand new set is worth. How much were they new?
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  #583  
Old August 16th, 2016, 06:11 PM
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I’ve been trying to decide how to go about painting all the new body panels. I was planning on taking them all down to have them painted individually, but that’s kind of awkward and there’s the risk they could get scratched transporting and installing them. So I’m going to paint the insides of them myself and then put them on the truck. Then the paint guy can just paint the whole outside of the truck. I was going to leave the galv cappings bare, but this way those will just get painted over too. That’s how Land Rover did it. So tomorrow I'm going down to the paint store to have them mix me up some Glasurit 22 into spray cans. Since the whole truck is getting painted I could do a color change too, but I think it should stay something close, so I’ve decided on Monza Red. I think it pops a little more than Portofino.
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  #584  
Old August 16th, 2016, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
I’ve been trying to decide how to go about painting all the new body panels. I was planning on taking them all down to have them painted individually, but that’s kind of awkward and there’s the risk they could get scratched transporting and installing them. So I’m going to paint the insides of them myself and then put them on the truck. Then the paint guy can just paint the whole outside of the truck. I was going to leave the galv cappings bare, but this way those will just get painted over too. That’s how Land Rover did it. So tomorrow I'm going down to the paint store to have them mix me up some Glasurit 22 into spray cans. Since the whole truck is getting painted I could do a color change too, but I think it should stay something close, so I’ve decided on Monza Red. I think it pops a little more than Portofino.
Sounds like a very good plan.

I think the change to Monza Red is a good move - something different but not too different which is smart for an NAS truck.

And I would normally say not to paint the galvy cappings but that's how they did it on NAS trucks. They will last forever now that they are galvanized (great move btw).

I would say the paint guy would love having you do the tedious work painting the insides and hanging panels. I painted my inner panels black when I had them off so if I ever do paint my truck I won't have to take it all down. And seeing your work so far you will probably get them much better aligned too!
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  #585  
Old August 16th, 2016, 06:46 PM
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I would advise against painting the galv cappings on. I bet they won't prep them properly and paint will come off.

Either do them separate or leave raw.

The unpainted rivets look better anyway.
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  #586  
Old August 16th, 2016, 07:34 PM
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Paint does not stick to galvanizing well at all.

I would paint in pieces. Make sure it is well cured and transport and assemble carefully.
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  #587  
Old August 16th, 2016, 08:02 PM
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Okay, I'll talk to the paint guy about the galv cappings. ECR posts pictures of them painting galv parts all the time.
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  #588  
Old August 16th, 2016, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
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Okay, I'll talk to the paint guy about the galv cappings. ECR posts pictures of them painting galv parts all the time.
Ecr has the process down.
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  #589  
Old August 16th, 2016, 08:37 PM
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Hopefully they're not the only ones. Glasurit says their 801- epoxy primers provide outstanding adhesion on galvanised steel.
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  #590  
Old August 16th, 2016, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
Hopefully they're not the only ones. Glasurit says their 801- epoxy primers provide outstanding adhesion on galvanised steel.
For the galvanized sheet metal panels that are standard on new vehicles (for the most part) this may be true, but hot dipped is another ballgame. Unless you paint it right after being dipped or sand it or something it does not stick.
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  #591  
Old August 16th, 2016, 09:29 PM
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Okay, well either way. I don't mind leaving them bare. They did turn out well.
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  #592  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 04:08 AM
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Hi Andrew, congratulations for the magnificent work on your 90.
I live in France and I have a project similar to yours.
I am the owner of a land 110,300 tdi and a BMW M3 E36 3.2L.
I would like to install the engine of the M3 in the 110.
By reading your blog I see that it's possible, but my English is not very good and I struggle to understand if I can find the right pieces to connect the S50B32 engine block with the gear box of the land ( R380).
I read on internet that the engine block S50 and the same as the M52.
And I also saw that some parts of P38 RR 2,5l diesel could be used for my project.
Before I launch into this adventure, I would be sure that I will be able to find the necessary parts at the junction gear box - engine. Everything else I have. (well almost
What do you think? Would you have any advice for me or for information, addresses or I can find these pieces?
I'm not very comfortable with the language of Shakespeare and I confess that I write with the google translation service :-))) So excuse me if turns of phrase are strange. translations are sometimes comical.
Anyway, good courage in pursuit of your project, you are not far from reaching the goal !!
Thank you very much for taking the time to read and in any case I will follow the completion of your project with great interest.
Manu.
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  #593  
Old August 26th, 2016, 05:17 PM
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Hey Manu,
Thank you and welcome to the forum. You're translated English is very good.
The S50 engine will bolt in the same as the M52. I read about a guy in South Africa who installed the S50 from the M3 into his 2.8i for racing. Apparently the motorsport engine is more sensitive to the effects of oil starvation off-road, so I imagine you would want to install an oil baffle in the pan or convert to a dry sump setup. I don't know if you can fit the dual sump S50b32 oil pan. You may need to install the M52 pump and oil pan. There is some information in my build thread that may help you with your project. A few pages back in the thread I compared the P38 RR 2.5 diesel clutch housing adaptor to the Defender 2.8i version in pictures. You can use either, but if you use the P38 version you will need to make custom engine mounts since the engine will be rotated about 10 degrees.

Andrew
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  #594  
Old August 26th, 2016, 05:29 PM
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Why are you changing your hood?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #595  
Old August 26th, 2016, 05:41 PM
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I didn't want to bother repairing the dents in the old one and taking it apart to galvanize the frame, so I just got the Td5 version with an aluminum frame so I don't have to worry about it ever rusting again. I have to change the prop setup too though.
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  #596  
Old September 1st, 2016, 10:02 PM
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I've talked to a few painters and body shops about having the paint work done. Most the shops I talked to don't want to touch a restoration project and don't know what a Defender is. They only want to deal with insurance claims on Hondas, Subarus, etc. A friend recommended a painter to me, but he's backed up weeks out and I'm sure it'll be expensive because he charged $2k to fix his Z4's fender. So I've decided to build a paint booth and do it myself. Iíve already painted some of the inside of the tub with Glasurit 22 Line the paint shop mixed up into aerosol cans and itís really nice to paint with. It didnít run at all even when I applied it kind of thick (which it seems I had to do to get it to shine good) and it covers very well, unlike some lower end AkzoNobel paint Iíve used which runs easily and covers poorly. It reminds me of the difference between store brand interior paint like Valspar versus Benjamin Moore. Night and day. The booth doesn't have to be real big since I'll paint the parts individually. It'll be something like this one a guy made when restoring his Mustang: Paint Booth

Today I picked up the paint for the whole truck. They didn't have the sealer yet (it's still on order). I selected the low VOC versions so I don't have to buy two separate hardeners and reducers for the color and sealer. The sealer is model 285-18 (tech sheet link). Glasurit says it can be used on the new e-coat body panels without sanding them. Some parts that have bare metal like the inside of the tub and new hinges will need to be primed, so I wanted an epoxy primer. But I donít want to have to buy another set of hardener and reducer for that either, so I went with a 2-part aerosol. It has a separate compartment in the bottom that you push the cap into to release the hardener. Itís SprayMax brand, but the paint store guy claims itís the same thing as the Glasurit 801-75. The new rear tub panels will need to be glued so I got 2-part 3M Adhesive and the applicator gun. A body shop guy told me to make sure I get 3M brand, but the paint store guy said he prefers SEM brand. I got the 3M because it was only a dollar more. Since itíll be riveted with the capping on the top and side I think either will be okay.



Monza

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  #597  
Old September 1st, 2016, 10:35 PM
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You are painting monza and not portofinio? Interesting, it will take someone who really knows defenders to notice. I can't wait to see how it turns out. My poor red 94 needs paint help. The front fenders were resprayed and the rest of the truck looks pink (which I would not mind if it were all the same).
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  #598  
Old September 2nd, 2016, 01:44 AM
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Yeah, I was going to keep it Portofino because the paint on the sides of the tub is in good shape, but after I talked to some painters they told me I should paint the whole thing because red is very hard to match, and I always wanted a Monza truck, so I thought why not?
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  #599  
Old September 2nd, 2016, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Chip View Post
... and I always wanted a Monza truck, so I thought why not?
4" lift and some 37's and you can call it a "Monzta Truck"
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  #600  
Old September 2nd, 2016, 09:27 AM
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Sounds like you know as much as some of those body shops! Can't wait to see how this comes out.
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